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Posted (edited)

Can somebody take the top off their airbox and start their car (preferably in a non-dusty environment)? Does your dash throw an error light? I have a feeling they might.

Edited by the_random_hero

Posted

any idea on how to turn off said light once it is on? one might suggest a trip to the local dealer and a quick ecu reset would be in order. If a light comes up it would mean a diagnostic code has been logged. if it stays on after you have put the air cleaner box back on it would suggest that it would need to be cleared. only way to clear it from previous expereince would be to get the dealer to clear the fault code.

Posted

In reply to pegaxs, resetting the error codes are as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (just to make sure), or taking out the ECU fuse for about 20 seconds.

Now in this case, if someone's gotta do it, I guess it would be me. I opened my air filter box as much as I could with the little give in the hose, and started my car and revved it a few times, up to as high as 4500 RPM. No check engine light was thrown in the minute that I did all of this in. I did notice however that when I released the throttle and let the revs drop to idle, it went down to about 700 RPM, then in fluctuated upwards about 50 RPM more and kind of 'flickered' around that area for a few seconds after stabilising at about 700 PRM again.

Also bear in mind that I have removed my activated carbon filter that sits in the upper portion of the air box. I would say if this were in place, it would even up a little bit of the air flow, so my case would be more 'testing' than a stock Aurion doing the same.

dsc03407dj4.jpg

dsc03409tj9.jpg

That was as much of the air box that I could expose. If you need me to go even further and rotate things around, just let me know and I'll see what I can do tomorrow. They don't give much room to play around in that engine bay, and it's late at night and I should be getting some rest.

Edit: I re-read your post and saw another side to your request. I'm sure you wouldn't mean to disconnect the hose from the throttle body right? That case would most definitely throw and error code as no air will pass through the MAF sensor.

Posted
In reply to pegaxs, resetting the error codes are as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (just to make sure), or taking out the ECU fuse for about 20 seconds.

Now in this case, if someone's gotta do it, I guess it would be me. I opened my air filter box as much as I could with the little give in the hose, and started my car and revved it a few times, up to as high as 4500 RPM. No check engine light was thrown in the minute that I did all of this in. I did notice however that when I released the throttle and let the revs drop to idle, it went down to about 700 RPM, then in fluctuated upwards about 50 RPM more and kind of 'flickered' around that area for a few seconds after stabilising at about 700 PRM again.

Also bear in mind that I have removed my activated carbon filter that sits in the upper portion of the air box. I would say if this were in place, it would even up a little bit of the air flow, so my case would be more 'testing' than a stock Aurion doing the same.

dsc03407dj4.jpg

dsc03409tj9.jpg

That was as much of the air box that I could expose. If you need me to go even further and rotate things around, just let me know and I'll see what I can do tomorrow. They don't give much room to play around in that engine bay, and it's late at night and I should be getting some rest.

Edit: I re-read your post and saw another side to your request. I'm sure you wouldn't mean to disconnect the hose from the throttle body right? That case would most definitely throw and error code as no air will pass through the MAF sensor.

No no no, just letting air flow more freely past the MAF sensor. This is interesting, to say the least - I've been told that it should throw an error light, but it doesn't appear to. These SRI's might be a goer yet :)


Posted

Bearing in mind that this was a still air test. I would suspect you would get your error codes of the sensor wasn't placed in just the right spot and you had air forced towards it (ie. wind or air flow from driving).

Posted

interesting you could start it and keep it going! when i had a 2003 camry sportivo with the 2az, i was mucking around and started the car with the airbox pulled apart (like djkor). it started fine, but then stopped after half a second. it then went back to normal once everything was connected.

Posted

in my experience with the TRD Aurion, once a MAF code was logged, pulling the EFI fuse etc didn't clear it. Needed to connect my scan-tool to clear the code.

Posted

When I got a check engine light and a 'Check VSC System' warning after starting my car with the MAF unplugged, I pulled out all four or so EFI fuses and put them back in a minute later and it was fine. I guess each case may vary.

Just to make sure it wasn't a once off, I repeated the procedure this morning. I have uploaded a video for reference, though I doubt it means anything. You can see Drew how the return to idle isn't as smooth as it should be.

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!
Posted
When I got a check engine light and a 'Check VSC System' warning after starting my car with the MAF unplugged, I pulled out all four or so EFI fuses and put them back in a minute later and it was fine. I guess each case may vary.

Just to make sure it wasn't a once off, I repeated the procedure this morning. I have uploaded a video for reference, though I doubt it means anything. You can see Drew how the return to idle isn't as smooth as it should be.

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Well, there's only one way to find out! As soon as I pick up some alloy, I'll do a SRI for somebody's car out of my own pocket, if they like it they can buy it for cost.

We also need an Aurion just to check out some things on the exhaust, no cost is involved to anybody. I was talking to my manager, he said he's happy to spend a day playing around with different exhaust systems as long as they are committed to buying the finished product.

Posted
Well, there's only one way to find out! As soon as I pick up some alloy, I'll do a SRI for somebody's car out of my own pocket, if they like it they can buy it for cost.

We also need an Aurion just to check out some things on the exhaust, no cost is involved to anybody. I was talking to my manager, he said he's happy to spend a day playing around with different exhaust systems as long as they are committed to buying the finished product.

Do you mind paying for my car to go on the Indian Pacific & transported up & back to me? :spiteful:

Joking. But I'm keen to see the results.....

Posted

Well, I just got paid out from my last job, and this sounds interesting. I think I'll take tomorrow off and swing by and have a word with you Drew. You are more than welcome to hoist my car up for a more in depth look.

Posted (edited)

You know it's worth it because there's at least another Aurion waiting for a good exhaust system. B)

If you need a 2nd car to try I'm happy to help out since I stay so close anyway. You need to tell me the night before though because I drive my car to work and I work all the way in Newstead. I'll have to drive my wife's 1998 Lancer (cringe). I'll have to drop it off at like 7.30am.

Edited by Supercharged TRD
Posted
In reply to pegaxs, resetting the error codes are as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (just to make sure), or taking out the ECU fuse for about 20 seconds.

This does not reset error codes. Sorry to be a pain in the ****. Error codes are only reset if they are cleared by a code reader (scan tool for Toyota) or if a certain drive cycle is completed without the error coming back. The light might go off on the dash after everything is plugged back in but a diagnostic code is still logged. You can turn it off, unplug everything in the car for 6 weeks, plug it all back in and the error code will still be there. The light may be off after your "special reset" but the error is still on the EEPROM in the ECU.

Posted

True. I should have been a little more specific. I meant to clear the check engine light. Essentially though, if you clear the check engine light and drive your car for a bit (and the check engine light was your fault), you would then clear the codes after a bit of driving cause the car thinks everything is fine? I have cleared the check engine light twice this way and brought my car in for a service twice and they said they scanned the OBD and found no problems. So I figured the error codes were cleared.

Two part answer I guess.

Posted
You know it's worth it because there's at least another Aurion waiting for a good exhaust system. B)

If you need a 2nd car to try I'm happy to help out since I stay so close anyway. You need to tell me the night before though because I drive my car to work and I work all the way in Newstead. I'll have to drive my wife's 1998 Lancer (cringe). I'll have to drop it off at like 7.30am.

Your exhaust is going to be a little different, from Daryl's description of how both your exhausts are done, I can see there are some pretty decent gains to be made on your car and hopefully his too.

We'll both let you know tomorrow :)

Posted

so Darly are you giving your car to drew to do the SRI as well as exhaust? when are u doing this?

be really keen to see th results of both and if either or both turned out well ill be up for 1st purchase lol

Posted

I'll let Daryl explain the quote we gave him for an exhaust today, let's say it's CONSIDERABLY cheaper than the price somebody else was quoted from CES :)

SRI won't be for a little while, still waiting for Craig from ECE to come in so I can organise some alloy, along with the fact Daryl's going to be away for work.

Posted
so Darly are you giving your car to drew to do the SRI as well as exhaust? when are u doing this?

be really keen to see th results of both and if either or both turned out well ill be up for 1st purchase lol

You and your progression on the mods Rowan. I am just about willing to throw in the towel and leave my car as is. I don't think I can pick myself up enough to jump back in the game. I need to put in some serious dollars and get some forced induction.

My time is Brisbane over the next month or two is a bit iffy. I've got work going on all over the place in Coffs Harbour, Darwin, and Adelaide. I guess if Drew picks up the alloy for the SRI while I'm away, and you are more available Rowan, I guess you can take the honours of being the guinea pig. If all goes well with the SRI, if I ask Drew nicely, he may make a second one up for me as I will be a guaranteed order for that upon my return.

On a side note, I was driving through Indro today and realised just how much safer it would be with the SRI instead of the CAI. The sudden rain that hit us flooded parts of the road in which a CAI would have easily scooped up.

As for the exhaust, for those that are local like Rowan, I'll speak to you personally to mention the cost. It's probably not the most appropriate to discuss that here.

The idea was this: The stock exhaust on the Aurion is pretty ideal for its use. There isn't really much gains to be had from extra exhaust work alone; just something with a bit more grunt to it. So they were thinking of reworking that squished section at the front starting at the two cats. There will still need to be that U bend there to maintain clearances, plus to prevent the sensor reading errors. It will then merge neatly into 2.5 inch pipe. After that the third cat and resonator will be removed and replaced with two hot-dog resonators. They reckon that removing the cat shouldn't make any difference since the car is emissions rated for higher than the Australian standard and the first two do the job sufficiently. This step can be altered if you're not comfortable. Then keep running the 2.5 inch to the rear after which it will split into 2 inch for a new set of mufflers on each side.

They reckon that you can save some money by only getting the mandrel bends on that reworked section at the front. Because the run from there to the rear of the car only has a couple of minor bends and stays relatively straight, a traditional radius bend will be sufficient and a mandrel bend in those areas will not provide any benefits.

Posted

good luck with it Daryl!!! i hope it works out...

i'm very nervous about changing anything to do with the front pipes and cats on the trd due to the sensitive ecu... :(

i'm keen to see the result though!! :)

Posted

Due to my busy schedule over the next couple of months, it will be a little while before any work will be done to my car. I'm getting a feeling Rowan will be first to get his Sportivo exhaust done before I do. Then I will be really far behind everyone. I hate the competitive nature of all this.

Posted

mate, i dont mind being another guinea pig... but there are a couple of issues...

1) i wont be back in the country for another 3wks...

2) i'd need some sort of guarantee from you guys that if there ARE error codes, then you'll get it to work...

3) i'd need some sort of guarantee from you guys that it WONT drone...and if it does, you'll fix it till i'm happy with it...

if those are cool with you guys, then i'm all for being a guinea pig...

let me know.. :)

Posted
mate, i dont mind being another guinea pig... but there are a couple of issues...

1) i wont be back in the country for another 3wks...

2) i'd need some sort of guarantee from you guys that if there ARE error codes, then you'll get it to work...

3) i'd need some sort of guarantee from you guys that it WONT drone...and if it does, you'll fix it till i'm happy with it...

if those are cool with you guys, then i'm all for being a guinea pig...

let me know.. :)

1 and 3 aren't issues at all :) I'm doing some more researching into the SRI now, we'll see how it goes.

Posted

Well, I just got my upcoming schedule for the next couple of months. I have a 2 week availability from the 21st of March to the 5th of April. Just letting you know Drew. If the SRI goes to plan around that time, I'm definitely in.

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