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Posted

lol im starting to like the whiteness LOL nooooo!!!!!! red car FTW BCOS THERE FASTER lol jksjks :) car looks hot dwee

Thanks Ray, but I'm just trying to catch up to yours.. :P Do you track yours? I'm tempted to go with friends end of year!

nar LOL only go for the occasionally mountain "drive" :P

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Posted

free bump for you mate, TOCAU SUPPORTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

lol im starting to like the whiteness LOL nooooo!!!!!! red car FTW BCOS THERE FASTER lol jksjks :) car looks hot dwee

Thanks Ray, but I'm just trying to catch up to yours.. :P Do you track yours? I'm tempted to go with friends end of year!

nar LOL only go for the occasionally mountain "drive" :P

Hahaha it's good fun! I LOVE it with the coilovers!

free bump for you mate, TOCAU SUPPORTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

It's good to be a TOCAU supporter! This forum has given me so much, the least I could do. :)

As with updates, not much really since it's been so busy at uni. I have just changed the damper settings to F:20/R:15 clicks from softest. Probably will get a Cusco rear sway 16mm, but just not sure how it will fit with my BC coilovers.

I know I've said this before, but plan to black my badges. The only thing is stopping me is that with the 'Levin ZR' badge (yes I want to keep it). Is there such a glue that forms like a gell (like window glue adesive), so you can fill the gaps in the writing, paint the rest of the badge black and then remove it so the lettering remains unaltered? Or just bluetak will suffice? LOL

While I'm asking, how much would it be roughly to colour code the front lip? :spiteful:

Thanks, Peter.

Posted

i reckon for your levin ZR badge, if you can mask it off really well then that should be sufficient. If not, you can try touch up paint and touch up primer pens? that might work.

As for the front lip, do a DIY if you're up for it. Im going to give it a go after the semester is over. Because paint places will charge for labour, primer and paint, I thought id give it a go myself since i've sprayed a few things. Wet sand the lip down myself, plastic primer, sand, use Duplicolour 3R3 paint for my car, and do heaps of layers for the front and just a bit for the bottom because that will just get scratched again. Just make sure you are PATIENT when doing it, spray very light layers each time. That way you can make sure it doesnt run and constantly shake the can every few minutes. :D


Posted

peter just mask it up with tape. as for front lip color coding, i reckin max u'll pay is 150. paint those badges already!

Posted

You can also lightly sand and spray your levin badge black as you like, all over. Then use a syringe with red enamel paint slightly thinned in it to very very gently fill in the depressed "levin" text. Doing it this way you can always wipe off any excess red paint. Should prove to be the best method.

Sorry guys, i still havent molded my levin zr badge as i said a while back to make black versions... been a bit too busy.

Posted

Thanks guys! Wasn't sure how about to go with these things. With the colour coding of the front lip, maybe I'll do it with you Peter/pezzie (too many Peters) and if I don't like it, get it redone at some paint place? :)

With the Levin ZR badge, masking up the areas with the small/thinner 'levin' text could be a challenge. :unsure: Pete's way sounds like it will look very neat (you can make the red brighter) but not sure how well I would do it though.. hahaha!

Peter.

Posted

Thanks guys! Wasn't sure how about to go with these things. With the colour coding of the front lip, maybe I'll do it with you Peter/pezzie (too many Peters) and if I don't like it, get it redone at some paint place? :)

With the Levin ZR badge, masking up the areas with the small/thinner 'levin' text could be a challenge. :unsure: Pete's way sounds like it will look very neat (you can make the red brighter) but not sure how well I would do it though.. hahaha!

Peter.

do pink mate, pink ftw :lol: :P :P :P

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

sweeetttt!!!!!

Yep, there's one here with your name on it!! :D

Posted

Nice buy Peter,could you take a pic minus the packaging PLEASE? want to see the bolts used :)

Posted

oh btw, greenline are awesom! :P

Yep, next time we're buying stuff off them!! :D

Nice buy Peter,could you take a pic minus the packaging PLEASE? want to see the bolts used :)

Yep, I took photos but it's on Vinh's camera. He'll post them. The screws connecting from the suspension to the bracket are allan key type screws and from the bracket to the bar are just normal screws and bolts. :)

I believe your custom K-mac setup is similar to Cusco's? We found out that it was a bit more hassle putting the rear sway onto cars with fat springs rather than cars with coilovers.. :whistling:

Dam you got that quick! :clap:

Yeah, I was surprised too! Did you put yours on yourself or got someone to put it on?

Peter.

Posted

AH Im lazy sometimes, got Pedders to do it when i had the Eibachs installed. Pretty straight forward to do tho.

Posted

Yep, gonna be a pain to do mine. Looks very nice though. I could actually see it under vinhs car when he drives up ahead. Having coilovers made it so much easier; around 15-20min mark. With normal springs, about 30-40mins. Got undo the shock absorber and lift the spring base to get swaybar bolt/base in.

Posted

Thanks Vinh, excellent... Kmac used flat top bolts as well.So the coils clear them.. Going by that close up I think Kmac did a top job.. :)

Posted

AH Im lazy sometimes, got Pedders to do it when i had the Eibachs installed. Pretty straight forward to do tho.

Yep, sounds like a reasonable way to go! It's not hard anyway and even easier now since we've done them.

Here you are John:

img0525q.th.jpg img0524c.th.jpg

Thanks Vinh! Hope you're loving it...wait I know you are!! :P

Yep, gonna be a pain to do mine. Looks very nice though. I could actually see it under vinhs car when he drives up ahead. Having coilovers made it so much easier; around 15-20min mark. With normal springs, about 30-40mins. Got undo the shock absorber and lift the spring base to get swaybar bolt/base in.

Yeah, only took 30-40mins with normal springs because we were trying not to touch the shocks/springs! Next time would be quick as, remove the springs straight away!

Thanks Vinh, excellent... Kmac used flat top bolts as well.So the coils clear them.. Going by that close up I think Kmac did a top job.. :)

The flat bolts were actually at the bottom and the round allen (hex) key screws were at the top..but yes, clears them perfectly! I was worried it wasn't going to.. :blink:

ah .. cruisey cruise .... last cruise .... ..

Last cruise? Mate, I reckon it's "future cruise TBA!!" :P

Posted

hehe if the cusco bar didnt have enough clearance then i would've been done for aswell but all is good ! and coilovers goodness :D

Posted

hehe if the cusco bar didnt have enough clearance then i would've been done for aswell but all is good ! and coilovers goodness :D

The Cusco rear sway should be ok with all spring setups! And good work with the coilies! Hehehe

Nice and sunny for a meet and cruise! :toast:

IMGP6395_2.jpg

Also, I have found this while looking through the JDMST forums. This is what you meant with the Levin ZR badge, right Pete?

Alright so i finished my valve cover today :) finally lol

I had a bright idea to use a syringe to get the paint into the letters and it worked quite well..

09052010151.jpg

Only missed in a few bits but im happy with how it turned out :)

here it is..

09052010152.jpg

will also update again tomorrow with roll bar :D and whatever else i get done with the service :???:

edit: thanks adam for the idea :)

Only problem is not sure how to put it back on.. use which type of adhesive to use or do I have to buy another Levin ZR badge?

Also, before the September meet, I put the rear dampener settings up to 18 clicks, so now it is F:20/R:18 clicks from softest! And with the addition of the Cusco rear sway, it was a brilliant drive!!

Thanks for looking! :)

Peter.

Posted

Exactly how i described to do it, but for such fine work you will need a large gauge needle for the syringe, perhaps smaller than what he has in that pic. And thin the paint a a little too. Practise on something else before you give the badge a shot. Be sure to leave it for quite a while as it will take ages to set/dry.

Posted

Exactly how i described to do it, but for such fine work you will need a large gauge needle for the syringe, perhaps smaller than what he has in that pic. And thin the paint a a little too. Practise on something else before you give the badge a shot. Be sure to leave it for quite a while as it will take ages to set/dry.

Yep, thanks for the advice Pete; definitely will practice on something else first. :) Do you think I need to buy another ZR badge with the adhesive?

I'm also tempted to get rid of everything except the black rear Toyota badge, but I think it will look too naked.. :unsure:

And if you haven't noticed, I'm looking at simple, small mods to add the final touches.. :P

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