2010 Corolla Levin ZR (Facelifted)

[Skynet]

Hi all,

I am a newbie here....I have just ordered a new 2010 Corolla Levin ZR, due to arrive in Feb 2010... got a few questions wonder if anyone could help me out here...

- does the engine require run-in (or break-in)? or has the engine been "pre-run-in" in factory?

- would you use octane 91, 95 or 98? Note: same engine as 2009 model i.e. 2ZR-FE

- at what km should I take my car to Toyota for the first 'Complimentary Vehicle Inspection'? I believe this inspection does not include oil and filter change. Would you recommend oil and filter change?

Thanks

Johnny

[Gab]

well im not 100% but all cars need to be run in.

The first check is at 1000 but its only a inspection would be good to do an oil change to get rid of metal shardings.

[DJKOR]

well im not 100% but all cars need to be run in.

This is correct in that all engines need to be run in, but this is done at the factory these days.

There is no requirement to run in the engine on a new car that you have purchased. Some people just prefer to take it easy for the first few thousand kilometres or so, but in the end, it comes down to what you feel comfortable with. Some quotes for you, and a thread that is an interesting read:

How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear !

That actually does sound quite valid. It makes sense though. Kind of like wearing it in to withstand it's maximum output. I guess this is why Toyota says there is no specific break-in period. It does also seem like the wrong thing to do, but that's just from a general perspective.

A lot of cars these days have effectively been run in before they even hand the keys over to you....so any "running-in" is irrelevant. However, it obviously does apply to freshly rebuilt engines.

Remember, on the assembly line the engine gets high rpm.

I visited a Toyota Engine assembly plant yesterday and saw every engine being run on the dyno (idle for a number of minutes to check for noises, then near max. RPM for an equal number of minutes). Not sure of the exact load pattern, but it would all be standard toyota practice.

[Blind Kid Seeks]

Congratulations on your new purchase.

Your complimentary service is purely an inspection... and regardless of the kilometres you have done... will only be a Free inspection, within the first Month or purchase.

please use unleaded fuel in your car... they grade of octane you use isnt so important.

I find that using more premium fuels, you will get better mileage, and with most Modern EFI cars, better performance.

modern engines aren't as reliant on a break in strategy, but if you treat your car well and are gentle with it in the first few hunder clicks.. your car will love you for it.

[Skynet]

Hi all

Thank you everyone for your help and great advice!!! Very appreciated...!!

I guess I will drive it as normal as you have suggested.

Thanks again.

Couldn't wait to see my car next month....

[bradsm87]

Since the engine can technically run on 91 octane, I would recommend premium (95) for the extra margin of safety from detonation and more even cylinder pressure across the whole stroke rather than a shorter sharper 'BANG' at the top of the stroke that 91 tends to do.

Most agree that the best way to run in an engine is HARD but not too many revs. Like try and use lots of varying revs under lots of load but stay under about 4500rpm for the first 200km and under 5000 for the next 300. For the very best results, change the oil and filter after 500km to more run-in oil even though toyota say it's not needed as most of the wear happens in the first 300km or so so 1000km is a long time to be running an engine with tiny bits of metal, assembly lube etc floating around in it.

We've ran in an engine using light load and it turned out to breathe like all hell, showing that the rings weren't bedded in properly. After another rebuild on the same engine ran in using heavy load, the breathing was reduced to nearly nothing.

Edited January 9, 2010 by bradsm87

[Hawk]

What did you get (manual or auto, what options) and what colour?

If you are willing to say what you paid that would be good too. buying soon myself.

Bradsm87 please explain how to put an engine under heavy load...

Edited January 9, 2010 by Hawk

[xoom]

please explain how to put an engine under heavy load...

u hit the accelerator ;) ;) ;) and dial up the revs to those indicated

[Skynet]

Hi Hawk,

Here's what I ordered for my Corolla...

Corolla Levin ZR Manual Hatch (Facelifted):

Colour = Graphite (Metallic paint)

Basic accessories added:

1) Carpet set

2) Boot liner

The cost for the car with the above accessories, rego fee, compulsory third party, premium plate (black text on white plate, $80), dealer delivery, document fee, stamp duty etc etc = $29,000 (GST inclusive)

Other extra option(s) added:

A) Window tint - Street Legal (have been told this one is the maximum legal tint but provide a better visibility at night from inside) = $400 (GST inclusive, normally $5xx)

B) X Pack protection (exterior paint, leather, carpet & fabric, vinyl) = $1,695 (GST inclusive, normally $1,9xx)

Therefore all up = $31,095 (drive away, GST inclusive), approximately 13%-14% discount off the normal retail drive away price.

I bought the car from Truscott Toyota Five Docks, 151-153 Parramatta Road. If you are interested, go and speak to Ray Wong. He is very helpful and will give you very unbiased recommendations on what you should get and what should not.

I have checked the price from other toyota dealer(s) in Sydney and found that their price is the best I found. It's because they are franchise of Toyota. Therefore their price is a bit more "flexible" than Sydney City Toyota. Price difference is in the order of $1000 to $1500.

I have also checked the standard price for most corolla's accessories.....FOR YOUR INFO...

1) Boot liner = $120

2) Scuff Guard = $60

3) Carpet mat = $110

4) Mud guard = << NOT AVAILABLE FOR LEVIN ZR >>

5) Navigator (2 models) = $1,950 and $4,500

6) Moonroof = $1,500 (this is factory-fitted in Japan so it may take longer to get your car)

7) TRD suspension kit = $2,707

8) Automatic transmission = $2,000

If there is any other info you need, please feel free to ask.

Thanks

Johnny

[Skynet]

Optional extra for Levin SX:

- Curtain airbag + driver's knee airbag = $550

- Alarm = $600

Got price from Sydney City Toyota before for Levin SX = $29,500 !! (the salesperson said they MAY be able to do $27,000, I have not re-confirmed with them afterwards)

Ascent and Conquest have been released already. Levin SX and ZR have not (That's what I have been told, please correct me if I am wrong).

Sorry for the long messages.....

QUESTION:

Has anybody used an Ipod plugged to the factory stereo (via USB)? If so, which Ipod model can you use? Has anyone tried the latest 5th generation Ipod nano onto the factory stereo and worked?

[oki]

The X protection is really a waste

U should get the moonroof instead for that money

BTW

I guess the reason why u get a better price than other dealers is because of the X protection thing

I used to work in dealership, I know a little about that trick.

I bought mine in city toyota which quate $500 less than five docks

[Hawk]

Thanks for all the info New Toyota Owner, very much appreciated.

I heard the same about the release of the levins, must make it true :D

I thought that metallic paint had been replaced by pearlescent with the facelift? Haven't seen a new silver one but I think i'd prefer the metallic.

[Skynet]

Hi oki,

Thank you for your comment above.

I have thought of this (X-pack vs Moonroof) too, but I have seen some forum regarding the potential leak from moonroof in the long run so I gave it a miss. Probably moonroof nowadays is better and will last long?

I am planning to keep the car for many years (I had the last car for 14 years) so I took the X-pack as an additional "protection". I had some "teflon" paint protection for my last car and worked pretty good IMO (ease of washing, maintaining shine even when sold after 14 years). I wasn't expecting the protection to last forever (although they say it's life time) but adding protection for couple more of years is all I need. Perhaps normal wax and gloss could do the same.

Regarding the price you mentioned, what car and option(s) did you get and what price?

Thanks again for the comment.

Johnny

[69.NIX]

Firstly, Congrats on the new car.

The price you paid isn't bad, but IMO some things could have been dropped from the list.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=25291 - I strongly suggest you make it to this, if you don't have your car, i'll pick you up. It would be a great chance to meet some of the SYD ZRE members.

Hope to see you soon :)

[Skynet]

Thanks for all the info New Toyota Owner, very much appreciated.

I heard the same about the release of the levins, must make it true :D

I thought that metallic paint had been replaced by pearlescent with the facelift? Haven't seen a new silver one but I think i'd prefer the metallic.

Hi Hawk,

No problem mate.

The Toyota Australia website / brochure was not very clear on what type of paint (metallic or pearlescent/Mica) they use, so I went to www.toyota.co.nz to check. They have JUST release the new facelifted corolla (same look as ours here). In summary;

Glacier White - Not metallic nor Mica

Silver Pearl - Metallic

Shimmer - Mica metallic (not sure what that means, may be both??)

Tidal Blue - Metallic

Wildfire (Red) - Mica metallic

Graphite - Metallic

Ink (Black) - Mica

Tha above information were extracted from NZ website. I assume they are the same as Australia but cannot be sure or validated.

Hope this helps.

Johnny

[juvenile]

Yes they've dropped the Sterling Silver which was also on facelift Sportivo, love that silver, has a hint of champagne in certain light...

But now they also have Tungsten,another dark grey/silver colour but lighter than Graphite..

Congrats New Toyota Owner on your ZR :)

1st facelift here maybe

[Skynet]

Thanks mate... :D

[Hawk]

Yeah Sterling Silver is what I've been looking at - absolutely love that colour.

Congrats with the purchase and good luck with the wait :D

[One-pager]

damn u got ripped on the tinting and X pack.

when i got my corolla they did it all for $900 (they initially quoted $1200), which I still think was overpriced.

[Skynet]

Yeah.. I thought I may have been ripped off too.. oh well.. too late...

What type of paint protection have you got? X-pack? both exterior paint and interior fabric?

[Skynet]

Hi all,

Has anybody used an Ipod plugged to the factory stereo (via USB)? If so, which Ipod model can you use? Has anyone tried the latest 5th generation Ipod nano onto the factory stereo and worked?

[69.NIX]

I have my iPhone connected without a hitch (I also got a cradle which you can clip onto the dash, no drill holes). My understanding is that 4th GEN and above iPods with the latest software will work.

[One-pager]

Yeah.. I thought I may have been ripped off too.. oh well.. too late...

What type of paint protection have you got? X-pack? both exterior paint and interior fabric?

yea the whole lot, exterior, interior and tint. Done by Truseal, except the tint was done by someone else, forget whom.

[danja]

Wow, I just purchased exactly the same car!

2010 Levin ZR, manual, graphite. I paid $30,000 driveaway, with tint, floor mats, weather shields (the things that go on the windows), and boot liner.

I opted out of all the protection packs they try to push on you after the sale has been made. They really are a huge scam. The paint protection is just an application of wax, the fabric protection is just ScotchGard - both of these things you can do yourself for a tiny fraction of the price. Rust proofing is unnecessary on a modern car unless you subject it to really extreme conditions like driving on salted roads or through salt water. Many dealerships are selling electronic rust-proofing these days, which is a box which bolts to your firewall and is supposed to "charge" the chassis such that the electrochemical reaction which causes rusting does not take place. The science is basically sound, but real-life reports of their effectiveness are very mixed. Either way, if you did want this you can buy the unit yourself for about $150 and install it (or get a sparky to do it) and come in well under the $500-odd the dealer will want.

The last one they tried on me was sound deadening, which is the bitumen-based spray on stuff you can find at auto stores - they apply it to the underbody. Again if you wanted it you could do it yourself, or have it done professionally for much cheaper. I found the car to be pretty quiet stock, so didn't bother.

Anyway, car arrives in about a month - looking forward to it! My first car was an AE82, so I feel like I'm going back to my roots. The car I'm parting with is a 2004 Commodore SS, so it's going to be an interesting transition ;)

[Skynet]

Hi congrats on your purchase. Your price is pretty good, just $500 more expensive.

In regards to the paint protection, I do understand this but I took it as an insurance protection. I am sure you won't agree but it's just my personal view.