Where can i get High-Output Alternator for Aurioin 2010

[Jackstar]

Need some help to purcahse a High-Output Alternator for Aurion 2010.

Does anyone know which brand model and how much it cost and where i can get them?

Also does anyone know how is the output on Factory Alternator?

I am running a very high output car audio, which may require an upgrade.

[T_Money]

Need some help to purcahse a High-Output Alternator for Aurion 2010.

Does anyone know which brand model and how much it cost and where i can get them?

Also does anyone know how is the output on Factory Alternator?

I am running a very high output car audio, which may require an upgrade.

first of all you don't buy a higher capacity alternator, you simply have your stock one respooled. this can take a 60amp alt up to about 100amp if required. this said unless you plan to run 10 amps your stock alt will work fine. if you kown anything about audio there are little things called capacitors which store power for peak usage of your subs that will work the trick under most circumstances. saves getting your stock alternator respooled.

go here for an explanation and a price - http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RU6752&keywords=capacitor+car&form=KEYWORD

Welcome to TOC!

Edited October 15, 2010 by T_Money

[Jackstar]

Need some help to purcahse a High-Output Alternator for Aurion 2010.

Does anyone know which brand model and how much it cost and where i can get them?

Also does anyone know how is the output on Factory Alternator?

I am running a very high output car audio, which may require an upgrade.

first of all you don't buy a higher capacity alternator, you simply have your stock one respooled. this can take a 60amp alt up to about 100amp if required. this said unless you plan to run 10 amps your stock alt will work fine. if you kown anything about audio there are little things called capacitors which store power for peak usage of your subs that will work the trick under most circumstances. saves getting your stock alternator respooled.

go here for an explanation and a price - http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RU6752&keywords=capacitor+car&form=KEYWORD

Welcome to TOC!

Yes, I know Capacitor, But Capacitor does not really Charge up and provide a Constain High-output. It helps but doesn't really do that much trick. Instead of Capacitor, Battary Do even better job.

The reason of looking at getting a better High-output Alt is that it is the only way to produce a Continuese high-output instead of few second.

My first Amp requires 80amp, Second Amp requires 180amp so that total at least 260amp (Continuesly),

These are the links that example some techni.

But simply i don't know what and where can i get for Aurion.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/alternator_highoutput.htm

http://www.alternatorparts.com/

[DJKOR]

My first Amp requires 80amp, Second Amp requires 180amp so that total at least 260amp (Continuesly),

If your amps are going to need that much power, factoring in inefficiencies, I'd be guessing you're expecting to run about 2500-2750 RMS?

Realistically, are you going to run at that power all the time? Think about it.

Really all you need to do is get yourself a second battery installed to cover for when you do run it at full power but for most of the time when you do run it at normal listening/driving levels, the stock alternator will be able to cope.

[Jackstar]

My first Amp requires 80amp, Second Amp requires 180amp so that total at least 260amp (Continuesly),

If your amps are going to need that much power, factoring in inefficiencies, I'd be guessing you're expecting to run about 2500-2750 RMS?

Realistically, are you going to run at that power all the time? Think about it.

Really all you need to do is get yourself a second battery installed to cover for when you do run it at full power but for most of the time when you do run it at normal listening/driving levels, the stock alternator will be able to cope.

Well, ATM when i am listening to the music, the Headlight flashs when sub boom. don't even mention about the light bulb for door. they turns off and on, off and on. when i am listening to sub.

And yes. i have already replaced the Factory Battary.

This is why i am looking at getting a better output from Alternator... which i believe to be the last option.

[DJKOR]

And yes. i have already replaced the Factory Battary.

This is why i am looking at getting a better output from Alternator... which i believe to be the last option.

I didn't say replace your battery; I said:

... get yourself a

second battery

installed...

Anyways, if you get yourself a decent main battery under the bonnet with a secondary (or even tertiary) battery in the boot, run some good 0 gauge cable (more than one would be even better) to the boot, and do the 'Big 3', you should be fine to run a few thousand watts RMS.

If you really think that just simply leaving everything as it is and upgrading just your alternator is going to fix your problems, then you are going to have to find someone who can re-wind you current one (or a spare). There are currently no high output alternators that are sold as they are to bolt directly up to the 2GR-FE.

[Jackstar]

And yes. i have already replaced the Factory Battary.

This is why i am looking at getting a better output from Alternator... which i believe to be the last option.

I didn't say replace your battery; I said:

... get yourself a

second battery

installed...

Anyways, if you get yourself a decent main battery under the bonnet with a secondary (or even tertiary) battery in the boot, run some good 0 gauge cable (more than one would be even better) to the boot, and do the 'Big 3', you should be fine to run a few thousand watts RMS.

If you really think that just simply leaving everything as it is and upgrading just your alternator is going to fix your problems, then you are going to have to find someone who can re-wind you current one (or a spare). There are currently no high output alternators that are sold as they are to bolt directly up to the 2GR-FE.

Part of Big-3 is to change Alternator isn't?

I have upgrade the Power cable to 0 gauge, replaced Factory Batt and Already installed a Secondary Batt, But it seems don't really last that long, especially Staying at 13.8V or above.

Don't really understand why...

That's why i am looking at replacing the Alternator now... to see if that can make it staying at 14.4v...

[DJKOR]

Part of Big-3 is to change Alternator isn't?

The big three is referring to your wiring:

1. Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post

2. Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground.

3. Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From the negative terminal on your battery to your car's chassis.

If you haven't done all three of those, upgrading the alternator isn't going to be as efficient as it should be. Anyways, that's just something for you to work on from there. I've had mates running 3500+ watt RMS systems with an additional two batteries and still on the stock alternator. I've even heard of the same case in a Gen 5 Camry which would be putting out no more power from the alternator than the Aution.

[T_Money]

It seems like all you want to do is replace your alt. Take it to an Auto Electrician and get the to respool it. It won;t work but hey maybe it will make you happy.

Edited October 18, 2010 by T_Money

[Guest]

It seems like all you want to do is replace your alt. Take it to an Auto Electrician and get the to respool it. It won;t work but hey maybe it will make you happy.

Or.. you could listen to DJKOR (who workes with electronics every day and knows what he is talking about) and do it properly... your call.

I hope you have considered that regardless of your alternator, it will not be able to supply peak power to your sound system... this is why we have batteries and caps... as they can produce a very high current for a short time.

Also, if your wiring is too small, your battery is not properly grounded/connected to your system/alternator it will just act as a big resistor, causing 1) the wires to potentially heat up 2) more load than necessary on your electrical system.

[450HP/tonne]

Also does anyone know how is the output on Factory Alternator?

first of all you don't buy a higher capacity alternator, you simply have your stock one respooled. this can take a 60amp alt up to about 100amp if required. this said unless you plan to run 10 amps your stock alt will work fine.

Sorry to leave this until the thread is almost dead, but the factory alternator is 100A.

Depending on temperature, it can actually push out much more than that (cooler being better).

[Audio115]

I'm interested to see how this all ended up,

I'm building my aurion up for audio competitions, just ordered 2 dual voice coil 1kw rms 15" subs, 8 6x9s, 6 tweeters and a few other screens, LEDs, cooling fans - all the fun stuff. Looking at approximately 6000w total rms.

I've already done the big three, run 1/0 AWG wires everywhere, I've ordered 2 soundstream 1000amp (purge) capcells, 2 20 farad capacitors, and 3 optima yellow top batteries and made up copper bus bars...

Now I know this seems like a fairly limited amount of information but should I look at an additional or replacement alternator, yes I am planning on running this thing loud as hell for long periods of time.

I've figured that running off approximately 14.4v at 6000wrms I'll need approximately 580-600 amps if I'm to run solely off the alternator. I arrive at this because your car needs around 40% so;

(1.4*6000)/14.4=583.3333•

I would like to spend the extra and have the security of not frying a few thousands worth of high end gear

[m999999]

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/Extreme-High-Amp-Output-Toyota-Alternators-s/85.htm

Hey Jackstar

I have been down this track many years ago (Before Kids) with a Nissan Maxima with a large Rockford Fosgate System , my advice is find a good

auto electrician .

As stated by the other memebers

1. Respool stock alternator (Cheaper)

2. Run 1/0 Gauge Power Cable , from the Alternator to the rear of the car , and run a 1/0 Gauge Ground Cable (overkill , but if you are going to do it once & you have the money)

3. Run good fuses front and back

4. Get a second battery for the rear/boot and also get a good Battery for under the hood (Stinger SPV44 44AH Dry Cell Battery)

5. Stiffening Capacitor (2 Farad or more if you have the money.) I like the ones with the DigiCaps which shows the volts

6 Get a good Distribution Block (One 1/0 Gauge Input/Three 4 Gauge Outputs)

7. Run some 4 Gauge Ground Cable at the rear form the amps .

8. Get a Second Job to pay for the above!!!!

Best of Luck

Mick

[DJKOR]

... yes I am planning on running this thing loud as hell for long periods of time.

I've figured that running off approximately 14.4v at 6000wrms I'll need approximately 580-600 amps....

I'd personally like to see what 6000W RMS at full power inside a car with you sitting inside it is going to do. I somewhat don't think your power requirements are going to sit on those levels constantly. Just a thought so you plan your needs a little more accurately.

[Audio115]

Hopefully not too much damage haha, I'm thinking if I can provide more than neccessary than I won't have issues with heating and what not

[Audio115]

So just as a little update for those who might be wondering,

I've contacted a company in the US know as mechman who are famous for their audio products, and am currently negotiating a quote for a custom 2GR-FE bolt on 400 amp alternator to be custom made, I have provided them with a list of cars which use the same engine, particularly the GSV40 Camry and the Venza. Hopefully if others are interested a multi buy might be able to be established

[Adamsy]

lol how much power do you actually need? Sounds like it’s time to get some efficient cabinets and tune them properly to their performance specs and get the best out of them? No longer do you need massive power for big sound. Are you running any processors? Oh and turn the bloody sub energy down. You should have a nicet tight punchy bottom end not doof, doof. That was never cool and never will be. Much more to music than bottom end.

[DJKOR]

lol how much power do you actually need? Sounds like it’s time to get some efficient cabinets and tune them properly to their performance specs and get the best out of them? No longer do you need massive power for big sound. Are you running any processors? Oh and turn the bloody sub energy down. You should have a nicet tight punchy bottom end not doof, doof. That was never cool and never will be. Much more to music than bottom end.

I'm guessing he needs all the power so he can do something like this all the time :

^ That build is crazy though (link)

On that note, this is where I was getting at when I was saying you don't necessarily have to go all out on a huge alternator that covers the RMS needs of your system. I can't imagine you running 6000W RMS for periods of time that would justify your alternator having to cover the full power requirements (ie. the 600A you mentioned in your first post).

[Audio115]

Yeah the plan is high spl, for daily driving I've organised a set of 10" 800w rms subs for tighter cleaner bass, being my daily driver I would like be have a 100% guarantee of not getting stuck without enough power to get going again - sounds retarded I know.

[SilverProdigy]

I upgraded my sound system which will now have a maximum draw of 120A last week. It's a 1650w max system I haven't noticed any degradation with my electrical so far. Is it still worth doing the Big 3 upgrade. I've been told by the car stereo installers that the current cable of 4 awg is ok.

[xCalibur_]

if you have an iphone or any ios device, and find an app called Kicker U Lite. it recommends you what awg wire to use

i'm running 1600watts too and not getting any electrical issues

[SilverProdigy]

Cool. I found this on the net. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

My setup is actually 1430w RMS total. I doubt I will be running to its maximum for most of the time. So the 4awg cabling should be sufficient.Time will tell. :)

[Beep Beep]

... yes I am planning on running this thing loud as hell for long periods of time.

I've figured that running off approximately 14.4v at 6000wrms I'll need approximately 580-600 amps....

I'd personally like to see what 6000W RMS at full power inside a car with you sitting inside it is going to do. I somewhat don't think your power requirements are going to sit on those levels constantly. Just a thought so you plan your needs a little more accurately.

What's it going to do? Deafness, tinnitus and total re-arrangement of internal organs comes to mind . Holy crap!

Edited February 15, 2013 by Beep Beep

[lynnii2]

It comes stock at 100 amps, but you will only see 86-87 max amps. http://www.dcpowerinc.com/vafproducts/list/?year=2010&make=Toyota&model=Avalon&engine=3.5L+2GR-FE

[matt36415]

So with this much power needed for the stereo, are we all deaf? or at least on the way to some good, long term hearing damage.

I just dont understand how massive volume can be nice to listen to?