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Do i need hub rings/hubcentric rings?

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u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted

oh crap, sorry that's what I meant"spacers" not rings.. I have rings but meant to ask about hubcentric spacers,,oops

If you use hubcentric spacers only, then most of the weight transfer of the wheels will still be on the bolts as opposed to the hub, as you said spacers just sit on top of the wheels, and would place some stress on the spacers themselves.

juvenile Grand Master

juvenile

Posted
Posted

Ok so with all my aftermarket wheels I have/had I use hub rings which kind of lock onto the original hub,nice and snug.. Now the spacers in the link above will fit snuggly onto the hub BUT that means the wheel will just sit flat against the spacer and the hub ring is doing nothing,correct?

So the best thing would be to buy wheels with the offset i want then? because all the bolt-on spacers available are too wide for what i want,still a daily so it needs to be practical...

u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted

Ok so with all my aftermarket wheels I have/had I use hub rings which kind of lock onto the original hub,nice and snug.. Now the spacers in the link above will fit snuggly onto the hub BUT that means the wheel will just sit flat against the spacer and the hub ring is doing nothing,correct?

So the best thing would be to buy wheels with the offset i want then? because all the bolt-on spacers available are too wide for what i want,still a daily so it needs to be practical...

Yes it would be best to just get the proper offset in the first place.

The spacers only purpose is to push the wheels out further, and nothing more. If you do not get hubcentric spacers, then the spacers would be able slide up and down.

If you didn't get hubcentric rings (or wheels with the correct hub/centre bore (60.1mm)) then the wheels will slide up/down put all the pressure on the bolts(hence wearing out the bolts and grinding at the wheels lug holes), instead of the pressure all being on the centre bore (if pressure is on the centre bore it will distribute all the force upon the wheel axle)

So hubcentric rings are a must, and then the spacers are there only to get the "sorta flush" look.

I hope the above makes some sense.

juvenile Grand Master

juvenile

Posted
Posted

Tomas your a champion, perfect sense. to be honest i only want spacers for the odd show or cruise that's all, but it does give me an excuse to go wheel shopping :P

Appreciate your help,thanks :)


  • 2 weeks later...
private number Grand Master

private number

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok i got my hubcentric rings, but cause i dont have any experience on them i want to know if this is correct?

before..

photo4-1.jpg

then...

photo-28.jpg

front...

photo3-1.jpg

rear...

with hubcentric rings installed? :S There is a gap now between the hub and the wheel. I didnt leave them on because i dont know how comfortable i would feel about the only contact between the hub and my wheel whilst i drive is a piece of plastic

photo1-4.jpg

photo2-4.jpg

Is it safe or not? Maybe wrong size? however they fit perfect on the wheel, and then on the hub as pictured! Any help would be great! Thanks! :D

Edited by private number
u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted

The rings are supposed to sit in the wheel, and sort of just be stuck in there. When you test fitted it on the hub, was there any movement? If no movement then it's okay.

private number Grand Master

private number

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh yeah? There wasn't any movement but when I put the nuts back on, they wouldn't tighten all the way due to nothing being behind the wheel connecting it to the hub. It's about a 2nm gap with the rings on. Time to order new rings again?

u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted (edited)

After you mount the wheel (while the car is still jacked up) push the wheel around and notice if the bolts move around in the lug hole, if they don't all is good.

All wheel hub centric rings, have that little protrusion, so that the hub centric ring does not slide into the wheel

(ie. they sit on the wheel if the wheel is placed on the ground with the back facing up), therefore will be held in position.

BTW, since you are here, what are your opinions of the D2 Coilovers (other than the seizing problem) are they easy to install and adjust?

Edited by u54mot
u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted

To be certain, take it to a tyre specialists and they will give you a firm answer..

private number Grand Master

private number

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will do man. The weather is shocking right now so I'll give it a try again later.

As for the d2s, no matter what brand coilovers they are easy to install and adjust.

For install; Take off the bolts at the top mount (3 of them), then undo the sway bar link (for the fronts only), remove the camber bolts and hey presto.

To adjust height, just need to remove the wheels and undo the locking collars and wind the coil down into the bottom perch to lower the car. Or, if you got the tools, undo the camber bolts and twist the bottom perch up to lower the car. But make sure you put the camber bolts exactly where you removed them so mark it before you start

For damper, simple. Just put in the Allan key like tool they provide you with at the top of the coilover and then clockwise or anticlockwise to make it stiff or more soft.

IMO d2s are ideal for daily use. They have stepped up the quality I've noticed in the 2 years since my original coilover was made and when I got this new replacement one. If you don't drift in them, and they are for height adjustability i recommend them. However, they are stiff coilovers even at the softest setting.

CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

Posted
Posted

The gap is not fine! Looks like the rings are the wrong size, remove them, dont drive the car with a gap between the wheel hub and the disc face.

Kenshin X Grand Master

Kenshin X

Posted
Posted

The gap is not fine! Looks like the rings are the wrong size, remove them, dont drive the car with a gap between the wheel hub and the disc face.

i second this, u need the rings to fit PERFECT.

private number Grand Master

private number

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah thats what i thought. So dw i removed them asap before even sitting in the car cause i knew it wasnt gonna be right

Anyone know where i can get some hubcentric rings made though?

Kenneth. Grand Master

Kenneth.

Posted
Posted

These are what my hub centric rings/spacers look like - Sorry I only have an iPhone pic:

post-3957-0-36395800-1305323630_thumb.jp

  • 2 weeks later...
Andrew357 Grand Master

Andrew357

Posted
Posted

How much did it cost for the custom rings?

Also, I would assume that these would be suitable if you were to say... mount a rotor with a 71mm centre hole/bore to mount to a Camry hub? The only thing though, I thought the Camry/Aurion hubs were 62mm, not 60.1?

CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

Posted
Posted

If you're going to use rotors with a larger center bore than your hub, you can get a locating ring machined up so it's a press fit on the hub and locates the disc properly. This is commonly done with the cressida brake upgrade that uses the 4 piston sumitomo calipers from a GTST skyline and BA Falcon disc.

I've been told that GUS Engineering at Slacks Creek can make custom hub-centric spacers if you need less offset and still want the wheel to have it's force taken by the hub instead of the studs.

If you try and fit wheels where the center bore is smaller than the hub size, then you can get the rims machined out by places like Wheel Revolution.

Andrew357 Grand Master

Andrew357

Posted
Posted

It's for the TRD Aurion brake upgrade. I was certain the Camry hub was 62mm and now I am not so sure but; I definitely know I need a ring to ensure the rotor sits correctly on the hub!

DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

Posted
Posted

It's for the TRD Aurion brake upgrade. I was certain the Camry hub was 62mm and now I am not so sure but; I definitely know I need a ring to ensure the rotor sits correctly on the hub!

Just measure the one you have there Andrew. A ruler is fine because you are testing whether it isn't 60.1mm or not.

Then I reckon we try those guys Jase suggested to see if they are able to make them for us.

Andrew357 Grand Master

Andrew357

Posted
Posted

That's a good point. I was so worried about precision I was all hung up on not being able to find my calipers.

It may slow things down (especially if they won't drill the rotor) but ill bring them one of each of the rotors and tell them what I need done.

Fingers crossed they have some 71-6X hub rings on the shelf

Andrew357 Grand Master

Andrew357

Posted
Posted

Just measure the one you have there Andrew. A ruler is fine because you are testing whether it isn't 60.1mm or not.

Then I reckon we try those guys Jase suggested to see if they are able to make them for us.

Surprise, surprise you and The Viking are right! Hub hole on the TRD is 62mm.

Very odd that PN is reading out 60.1mm

CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you want someone to machine up rings to locate a different disc, then Craig at Extreme Engineering in Archerfield can do it easily.

U2/ 142 Beatty Rd Archerfield, (07) 3274 3700

Tell him Jason with the 2J Cressida referred you.

Edited by CHA54
Andrew357 Grand Master

Andrew357

Posted
Posted

If you want someone to machine up rings to locate a different disc, then Craig at Extreme Engineering in Archerfield can do it easily.

U2/ 142 Beatty Rd Archerfield, (07) 3274 3700

Tell him Jason with the 2J Cressida referred you.

Just spoke to Craig then, $10-$15 for aluminium rings. $55 to redrill the rotors (per rotor).

Nice bloke too, thanks for your help :)

CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

Posted
Posted

Yep, Craig's the man. Does awesome fabrication of all sorts and is very reasonably priced.

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