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Posted

Hey mate,

Could be a number of things is there any specific sounds that catch your attention? It could be the tappets but it shouldnt really be that bad at 75,000 K's

Posted

If you shift to neutral (when it is bad) for about 2 seconds, then back to drive, does it go back to a smooth idle?

Posted

Stab in the dark, but spark plugs? Usually when a car rough on drive for me means the sparks need changing. I remember on my 97 camry it was noisy and shaking, after new spark plugs it was dead quiet... Well almost :lol:


Posted

I think you might be refering to a piston slap as i am told it almost sounds like tappets but its just how toyota desgined this engine. I am told 2009 aurion onwords dont have that sound. I have an 07 aurion and it makes the same noise as yous i bet.

Posted

Not this talk about piston slap again. There are numberous things that make this engine noisy at idle, but piston slap is not the once causing what you hear the most. One that causes the most is the VVT-i solenoids. As well, the PCV valve makes quite a bit of noise in a repetative manner as well.

Edit: I knew someone here has mentioned this as well:

Here is one source for this kind of normal noise:

imagetvk.jpg

These are the solenoid valves that control VVT-i and can be easily found under the engine cover (2 per cylinder head on the drivers/right side).

Edit 2: To show the PCV valve noise, have a look at the following video:

Posted

Not this talk about piston slap again. There are numberous things that make this engine noisy at idle, but piston slap is not the once causing what you hear the most.

maybe toyota mechs need better training, thats what i got told.

Posted

If you shift to neutral (when it is bad) for about 2 seconds, then back to drive, does it go back to a smooth idle?

I've tried that and the noise gone, what caused that noise you reckon?

Posted

I find that it doesn't do it when engine is warming up and holding revs at 1,000rpm.

It does it when its warmed up and revs at 600rpm.

Shifting to neutral reduces the vibration/noise as the revs climb to 800rpm but then it stablises about 600rpm again and vibration/noise comes back, although possibly less of it.

Don't know if its fuel related.

I was on Vortex 95 for 4 weeks. Now on 7-Eleven E10.

It seems to be more noticable as this winter approached.

Posted

If you shift to neutral (when it is bad) for about 2 seconds, then back to drive, does it go back to a smooth idle?

I've tried that and the noise gone, what caused that noise you reckon?

I am thinking it is to do with the preload in the transaxle and driveshafts as you stop (the resulting torque could affect the engine mount / isolator performance). Stopping whilst in neutral, then shifting to drive is also good, per the above neutral trick.

The rpm before and after shifting to neutral is exactly the same, so nothing to do with that. The vibration does not return for me.

I have been using BP Ultimate 98 since new, so no difference there either.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hey guys. I have this same issue. I hope it is ok on this forum to bump threads.

I have a ticking sound coming from this valve that is circled. Is that the PCV valve and is it supposed to be ticking like that Sienna? Car has done 135,000km

post-10726-0-44539100-1339411230_thumb.j

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

In that photo you will find the pcv valve is about 20mm to the left.

Unclip and remove the hose then unscrew the pcv valve from the tappet cover if you need to check it.

With these noisy engines I did find over on the US site Toyota Nation that the Highlanders (3.5L V6) were having similar problems but most seem to be cured when they used 10-30 oil?

Edited by KX-R & ACV40R

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