trd aurion actuator problem on charger

[SASO1]

HI GUYS I HAVE A TRD AURION WHICH AT THE MOMENT HAS BOTH TRACKTION LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT ON TOYOTA HAVE COME UP WITH A ACTUATOR PROBLEM IN THE SUPERCHARGER WHICH IS CAUSING THE CAR NOT TO HAVE TRACKTION AND INCORECT MIXTURE WITH FUEL ND AIR HAS ANNYONE HAD THAT ISSUE?

[Steven]

HI GUYS I HAVE A TRD AURION WHICH AT THE MOMENT HAS BOTH TRACKTION LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT ON TOYOTA HAVE COME UP WITH A ACTUATOR PROBLEM IN THE SUPERCHARGER WHICH IS CAUSING THE CAR NOT TO HAVE TRACKTION AND INCORECT MIXTURE WITH FUEL ND AIR HAS ANNYONE HAD THAT ISSUE?

First of all, welcome to the club. There are many members here, but first I suggest you get to know Mr. Punctuation and Miss Comma. These 2 have helped many out and have greatly contributed to the forum.

Also be sure to post in the correct section of the forum. There is one such section dedicated to Aurions and posting here will see your question get the most relevant attention. This section is, as per the large notice sign at the top of the page, only for members to introduce themselves and NOT for car related questions.

Onto your actual question, the traction light and engine light pretty much both come on at the same time with the Aurions for most error codes, but the only actuator attached to the supercharger likely to cause traction issues is the "throttle body", which is electronically linked to the "throttle pedal". This problem is more so accentuated in the TRDs when the throttle pedal is in a state known as "floored".

TRDs also run pretty rich by nature btw, far from the ideal air/fuel ratio

Did Toyota actually mention which error code you currently have? Or any other information at all? At this time by the way you've described sounds like the Toyota tech hasn't a clue, or at the very least is making it worse than it sounds.

Help us help you by giving a better description of the problem including what the symptoms are aside from just the Engine light. Their are some TRD owners on here who are very knowledgeable and might be able to point you in the right direction.

[trentmeyer23]

Holy CAPSLOCK Batman!!!

[DJKOR]

You mean this problem?

Yesterday afternoon, the car was driving perfectly fine up until the point where I went to 999 Automotive to pick up the bits and pieces for my intake. When I leave the place, it drives fine for a few hundred metres or so and then when I come to a stop at the lights, I feel the car surging a bit and notice the revs drop to 500RPM (about 200-300 lower than normal). After a few seconds, the revs stabilise and all seems normal again.

The when I accelerate off gently, I notice it has this rather pronounced flat spot between 1000RPM and 1500RPM... after which it drove normally. I definitely knew something was up but I didn't really care too much and just figured that I'll be playing with the intake anyways and can give it an ECU reset and see how that goes. I drive to Autobarn to get some more pieces and stop the engine.

When I go to leave, I noticed it started a little funny and the revs dropped to about 500RPM and the surging happened again. A few seconds later it seemed to work itself out. So I continued on my way. As I was driving out, I was in some start-stop traffic and as I was lightly applying the brakes, the revs spiked all of a sudden and I nearly rear ended the car in front. I was getting annoyed now. I thought it won't be far to get home so I'll just take it easy. As I continue along the way, I get the following:

Didn't really surprise me. All it did was confirm that I wasn't imagining things. Anyways, I decide to read the code and got this. Oh the irony (in that I bought bits for the intake, and got a code related to the air/fuel mix):

I immediately had an idea as to what the problem was, but I just told myself that I will fix it when I get home. I only had to stop by Bunnings on the way so I got that out of the way first. One thing to note that was after the initial flat spot, once the car was moving faster than about 20km/h, it seemed normal... even under heavy acceleration. It didn't go into limp mode or anything.

So anyways, I get home and look straight to the rear of the supercharger. As per my expectation, I observed the following:

I knew to look here because Ash (SecaBoy) reported of

the same issue

with his some time ago and the fault was something I had kept in my head. Basically it is the vacuum line for the S/C bypass valve actuator. This bit of hose is really loose fitting on the TRD's and in this case it managed to get a fair deal of oil built up on it which led to it sliding off enough to leak the vacuum. When there is no vacuum applied to the valve, the S/C will produce boost as the bypass valve remains closed, and when the engine is idling, this extra boost was upsetting the engine as it was not expecting this.

So anyways, I took the hose off and since I didn't have any other hose to suit, I ran some degreaser through this one to clean it up and thoroughly cleaning the ports that it connects to. Even still, the hose was rather loose fitting, so I took the next step:

That should buy me some time until I can get some tighter fitting hose. I cleared the code and the car runs normal again.

[SASO1]

At first they said i need new supercharger and it will cost me $7000 fitted i told them to get f,ed as the car hs 5 warranty a deal i made after paying cash for it they refused saying that the charger is not covered but little did they know that its not a addition car comes with it and warranty papers only state turbo disel engines are not covered after going of my head at them and prooving point plus fretend them with law suit and come up with some bs as actuator car hasent lost power the only thing is theres no tracktion and that stupid engine and v

sc light what do you think could it be hose or maybe tracktion reset?

[TRD 269]

At first they said i need new supercharger and it will cost me $7000 fitted i told them to get f,ed as the car hs 5 warranty a deal i made after paying cash for it they refused saying that the charger is not covered but little did they know that its not a addition car comes with it and warranty papers only state turbo disel engines are not covered after going of my head at them and prooving point plus fretend them with law suit and come up with some bs as actuator car hasent lost power the only thing is theres no tracktion and that stupid engine and v

sc light what do you think could it be hose or maybe tracktion reset?

I had the same problems with mine, we fixed the hose and not long later had to replace the valve. since then no problems with the hose or the valve. Warranty job.

[SASO1]

Hopefully the'll fix it soon apperantly after 4 weeks now they are still waiting for part to come from, Japan .

[Djs]

Just had a similar problem with mine. Check engine/VSC system lights came on in mine. Originally thought it was the air hose from the supercharger which was swollen and loose on the supercharger end. They replaced the hose under warranty but now they are saying it wasn't that and it is a faulty sensor so its stuffing up the fuel mixtures slightly. In the process of getting parts (again under warranty) and should be fixed in the next week or so.

[SASO1]

Just make sure to keep ringing them, because they won't and when you ring them is the same sunami excuse saying there's back order from Japan.

[450HP/tonne]

when you ring them is the same sunami excuse saying there's back order from Japan.

Have you read the news about how bad the situation really is for Toyota?

[Guest]

when you ring them is the same sunami excuse saying there's back order from Japan.

Have you read the news about how bad the situation really is for Toyota?

I was IN japan two weeks after it happened, a lot of places got VERY badly effected, its not just an excuse.

[Djs]

Does anyone know what sort of price you would be looking at to replace the a/f sensor in a TRD aurion? I was quoted $430.00 by the dealer. And a dumb question... if I were to change the sensor myself (assuming I could) would the "check vsc" lights on the dash stop coming up automatically, or will the error have to be manually reset with special tools?

[SASO1]

Does anyone know what sort of price you would be looking at to replace the a/f sensor in a TRD aurion? I was quoted $430.00 by the dealer. And a dumb question... if I were to change the sensor myself (assuming I could) would the "check vsc" lights on the dash stop coming up automatically, or will the error have to be manually reset with special tools?

If you know how to change sensor after you done that take positive terminal off battery for nhalf an hour..computer then resets its self, If there is a other issue with in half hour to an hour drive it will re apear.

saso1

[SASO1]

when you ring them is the same sunami excuse saying there's back order from Japan.

Have you read the news about how bad the situation really is for Toyota?

I was IN japan two weeks after it happened, a lot of places got VERY badly effected, its not just an excuse.

Its funny how they have a whole supercharger in hand but no pini actuator only deference is they can make $7000 grand from charger... warranty job on actuator

do you see where Iam coming from?

[DJKOR]

Does anyone know what sort of price you would be looking at to replace the a/f sensor in a TRD aurion? I was quoted $430.00 by the dealer. And a dumb question... if I were to change the sensor myself (assuming I could) would the "check vsc" lights on the dash stop coming up automatically, or will the error have to be manually reset with special tools?

The MAF is held on with two screws. Simply loosen these and the MAF comes straight off. Personally, have you tried cleaning your MAF firstly? Some hints are provided here: Cleaning MAF Sensor.

Its funny how they have a whole supercharger in hand but no pini actuator only deference is they can make $7000 grand from charger... warranty job on actuator

do you see where Iam coming from?

You do realise that the supercharger itself comes with the actuator attached as part of how it's purchased. Therefore, they don't simply just carry the supercharger only or the actuator only, neither are they going to pull one off a complete supercharger assembly. If you want either bit separately, you need to wait as it is a special order. It's not entirely based on who gets more money because think about it. If I was someone from Toyota, I would rather you get a new actuator than a completely new supercharger had it have failed during the warranty period.

If you have the time, why don't you ring Eaton/Harrop and ask if you can get a replacement actuator for the R1320/HVT1320 that was designated for the TRD Aurion? You may have more luck going down that path.

[SASO1]

Does anyone know what sort of price you would be looking at to replace the a/f sensor in a TRD aurion? I was quoted $430.00 by the dealer. And a dumb question... if I were to change the sensor myself (assuming I could) would the "check vsc" lights on the dash stop coming up automatically, or will the error have to be manually reset with special tools?

The MAF is held on with two screws. Simply loosen these and the MAF comes straight off. Personally, have you tried cleaning your MAF firstly? Some hints are provided here: Cleaning MAF Sensor.

Its funny how they have a whole supercharger in hand but no pini actuator only deference is they can make $7000 grand from charger... warranty job on actuator

do you see where Iam coming from?

You do realise that the supercharger itself comes with the actuator attached as part of how it's purchased. Therefore, they don't simply just carry the supercharger only or the actuator only, neither are they going to pull one off a complete supercharger assembly. If you want either bit separately, you need to wait as it is a special order. It's not entirely based on who gets more money because think about it. If I was someone from Toyota, I would rather you get a new actuator than a completely new supercharger had it have failed during the warranty period.

If you have the time, why don't you ring Eaton/Harrop and ask if you can get a replacement actuator for the R1320/HVT1320 that was designated for the TRD Aurion? You may have more luck going down that path.

Ive just found out looking around the air filter box, and super charger the small hose inlet looking from front end of car towards it,theres a split where hose sits...I wonder if thats what makes VSC an d engine light go on?

[DJKOR]

Ive just found out looking around the air filter box, and super charger the small hose inlet looking from front end of car towards it,theres a split where hose sits...I wonder if thats what makes VSC an d engine light go on?

You need to be more specific. Photos are handy. There are quite a few vacuum hoses visible from the front of the engine bay.

Also, any fault that is enough to cause a Check Engine Light will also cause the Check VSC System warning, so depending on which hose is split, this may or may not be the cause.

I would be inclined to check if your vacuum actuator is definitely faulty as well. You can test this by attaching some hose to the actuator and sucking air out with your mouth to see of it moves. Not saying it's not faulty, but I don't always trust Toyota.

[Djs]

Speaking of not trusting toyota. To be honest I think they currently have no idea what the problem with my car is. I did check the MAF sensor... it appeared very clean but I sprayed a lot of electrical contact cleaner in and gave it a good clean anyway, disconnected the battery but no go... check VSC and engine lights back on seconds after starting car again. I honestly don't think there is a problem with the MAF sensor... I think it is very odd for the MAF sensor to become faulty in that way (they said it is reporting to lean/incorrect mixture?? odd) i will get them to change it like they say but I am going to make sure I don't get charged for it if that was not the prob. I had similar problems with my Hilux... fuel economy dropped dramitacally after they re-flashed my ECU... they looked at it it a few times, said there was no fix and then refused to book my car in to rectify saying there is no current fix for the problem. I took my car to a deisel mechanic who looked at the MAF sensor which was completely covered in black soot... he cleaned it and the next tank economy was instantly back to normal - BTW my Hilux is still under genuine toyota warranty but I had to fork out the money to fix this somewhere else because of there incompitence. Such a simple thing that should be one of the first things they check.

SASO1 i think you are currently experiencing the same problem as me... I have had the car in three times now and they keep saying different things... hopefully they are wrong in your case with regards to $$$... I am getting a little scared now that mine will come to the same diagnosis as yours and mine is also out of warranty and they are going to say the supercharger will have to be replaced or something.

When I purchased mine I still had about a year manufacturers warranty left and they also provided me with an extra 3 years of their own "mechanical warranty". The manufacturers warranty ran out last year and the mechanical warranty is meant to expire on 08/2013. Even though I have taken my car in every 9 months/15000km as per Toyota's schedule (just had 60000k service and have only done 20000k) they have advised me that my mechanical warranty is void because I have not taken my car in every 6 months or 10000k! Yes, its in the fine print and of course they do not tell you this when they provide you with the extra warranty. I wish I could still take out genuine toyota extra care.. i really should have done this to start off with. It all a big joke to them - absolute worst service I have ever experienced every time I take my car in - they are so incompitent and it takes them several goes to fix every problem.

Anyway will see what they come up with next.

[SASO1]

I think is the apprentice guys they put on with no idea ether way its gona cost us u watch I've waited 8 weeks for this f,n actuator..I still have full warranty after i did the deal prior of purchasing car...Lets hope.

[Djs]

I think is the apprentice guys they put on with no idea ether way its gona cost us u watch I've waited 8 weeks for this f,n actuator..I still have full warranty after i did the deal prior of purchasing car...Lets hope.

Not sure why you are waiting so long for the actuator and why it is even coming from Japan? Or is it some other part you are waiting for? You can just purchase an actuator from Harrop (who do the Eaton products in Australia) or there are many other places you can order one direct from the US. Should cost you between $60-$120 AUS and you could get it within a week.

[DJKOR]

I think is the apprentice guys they put on with no idea ether way its gona cost us u watch I've waited 8 weeks for this f,n actuator..I still have full warranty after i did the deal prior of purchasing car...Lets hope.

Not sure why you are waiting so long for the actuator and why it is even coming from Japan? Or is it some other part you are waiting for? You can just purchase an actuator from Harrop (who do the Eaton products in Australia) or there are many other places you can order one direct from the US. Should cost you between $60-$120 AUS and you could get it within a week.

Did you also test your actuator like I previously mentioned? The stock length of hose fits pretty loosely and could easily leak vacuum and cause the actuator to not do it's job properly. Otherwise you may end up replacing a perfectly fine actuator due to misdiagnosis by Toyota.

[SASO1]

I think is the apprentice guys they put on with no idea ether way its gona cost us u watch I've waited 8 weeks for this f,n actuator..I still have full warranty after i did the deal prior of purchasing car...Lets hope.

Not sure why you are waiting so long for the actuator and why it is even coming from Japan? Or is it some other part you are waiting for? You can just purchase an actuator from Harrop (who do the Eaton products in Australia) or there are many other places you can order one direct from the US. Should cost you between $60-$120 AUS and you could get it within a week.

Did you also test your actuator like I previously mentioned? The stock length of hose fits pretty loosely and could easily leak vacuum and cause the actuator to not do it's job properly. Otherwise you may end up replacing a perfectly fine actuator due to misdiagnosis by Toyota.

I tested it and its fine and when u press against it like pushing metal arm in woods u can hear it sucking air...

[DJKOR]

I tested it and its fine and when u press against it like pushing metal arm in woods u can hear it sucking air...

Well the next step would be to get a length of vacuum hose (if you don't have some laying around, it will only cost you a couple of dollars at most) and replace the hose that is currently there. Start the engine up and look if the valve is all the way back when the car is idling, ie. look at how it all looks when the car is off and then compare it when the car is on and idling. One indication when the valve is in (which means it's functioning) is when the tab circled below is not in contact like it is in the photo when the car is idling. If the valve is in when the car is idling, then I wouldn't exactly suspect the actuator to be the problem.

[Djs]

Mine has finally been fixed! Turned out to be a faulty AF sensor in the exhaust system (not the MAF sensor or supercharger actuator hose as originally thought).

[SASO1]

I think is the apprentice guys they put on with no idea ether way its gona cost us u watch I've waited 8 weeks for this f,n actuator..I still have full warranty after i did the deal prior of purchasing car...Lets hope.

Finily all fixed actuator new rim caps the lot warranty job.

Not sure why you are waiting so long for the actuator and why it is even coming from Japan? Or is it some other part you are waiting for? You can just purchase an actuator from Harrop (who do the Eaton products in Australia) or there are many other places you can order one direct from the US. Should cost you between $60-$120 AUS and you could get it within a week.