SlotteDBA 4000 series

[czaja74]

Just wanted to get some advice. Last year (16k km) I had DBAs slotted4000 and new pads installed on my car. Recently I noticed a very slight wobbling in the car while braking.

Options :

Get the discs machined at $40 per corner plus new pads

or

Change the rotors and pads but it is like around $1k exercise

The mechanic said that these rotors are sh*t and he willnever put these on. It made me suspicious. I know that here are quite fewmembers have these on and they are happy.

What are your thoughts? Also anyone knows where I can get DBA2707 and DBA2709 at the good price?

Edited September 6, 2011 by czaja74

[SCOOTA44]

I just had those put on mine and apart from the wrong pads ( bendix, get too hot too quick) they seem ok. cost $305 for the pair.

[czaja74]

I also have Bendix pads on the car as well. This might be a problem. I'll take car to other place and get the second opinion.

[Foss]

The mechanic said that these rotors are sh*t and he willnever put these on.

DBA4000 are some of the best street rotors money can buy.

Forget the rotors. Replace your mechanic!

[Adamsy]

Yes i would be very surprised if there was an actual problem with the DBA 4000 series rotor. There highly regarded and come very much recommended. I would think you should see less drama's with this product on an Australian built vehicle as they would take extra care to make sure the product to suits these cars is spot as because local cars would make up the bread and butter of theirs sales. Which Bendix pad range are you using? i didn’t have very good experiences with the ultimate nor the SRT. Couldn’t fault the performance they stopped very well but was harsh on the rotors and created a massive amount of dust.

[czaja74]

I think he put Bendix CT ones. I had QFM HPX pads but he said that these were too hard and were eating rotors. I got a feeling that someone was feeding me b***s***. I think I might contact Greg again and reorder another set.

Or is there other pads were considering? Something with good braking performance but not too hard on the rotors.

EDIT: I also noticed that disks are slightly glazed?

Edited September 7, 2011 by czaja74

[Adamsy]

I think he put Bendix CT ones. I had QFM HPX pads but he said that these were too hard and were eating rotors. I got a feeling that someone was feeding me b***s***. I think I might contact Greg again and reorder another set.

Or is there other pads were considering? Something with good braking performance but not too hard on the rotors.

EDIT: I also noticed that disks are slightly glazed?

I wouldn’t of thought you would run into any dramas with CT Stealth’s, i mean there just your normal run of the mill everyday pad designed to do the job so i can’t see how you could have any dramas with them destroying rotors. Also many active owners here are running QFM pads and i think we’re all pretty happy with them. So yeah i dunno perhaps your mechanic doesn’t know a whole lot about "performance" parts lol??. BUT at the end of the day if you want great pedal feel, strong retardation with little fade then you are going to have to pay for that with slightly quicker rotor and pad wear. It’s just finding the happy medium for you between performance and pad/rotor life.

[czaja74]

Spoke to DBA and yeah rotors need to be machined. They blamed installation. Possibly mechanic didn't check for disc run out and also pads aren't suitable for these rotors.

Does anyone know a good place in Melbourne to machine and install rotors.

Anybody got any experience with Brakes Plus or ABS?

Edited September 21, 2011 by czaja74

[Foss]

Disc run out? In new rotors?

As for your pads, I'm running the HPX pads in the front and they've been good. Several guys here use them and have been happy with them.

Personally I install my own rotors. If I ever need to get them machined I'll just go to my local Toyota dealership.

Also, if it is your mechanics fault, I'd be hitting him up for the expense of rectifying his c*ckup.

[Adamsy]

That’s rather interesting that they said you’re using the wrong kind of pads for the rotor. Your using Bendix CT Stealth, hard to get a more everyday normal pad then those.. What do they want you to use?

[Djs]

Disc run out? In new rotors?

As for your pads, I'm running the HPX pads in the front and they've been good. Several guys here use them and have been happy with them.

Personally I install my own rotors. If I ever need to get them machined I'll just go to my local Toyota dealership.

Also, if it is your mechanics fault, I'd be hitting him up for the expense of rectifying his c*ckup.

The run out they would have been refering to would have been checking the hub for run out before installing the rotors. If the hubs were not in tolerance (ie.. from a kerb impact etc) then the hub(s) should have been replaced before putting the new rotors.

I don't see how bendix ct pads could be the cause!?

[DJKOR]

I don't see how bendix ct pads could be the cause!?

Same here. When I first got my DBA 4000's, I used Bendix CT's and did few hard mountain runs. Gave me no grief whatsoever.

[czaja74]

It might be a case. DBA said that these pads compound isn't consistent or sth like that. He recommended Bendix heavy duty. I'm taking a car for a service to mechanic tomorrow and will post back after all fixed.

[czaja74]

Everything pointed to rotors. I'll never buy slotted rotors again. I had standard DBAs for over 4 years and never had a problems.

[DreadAngel]

Hardly the fault of slotted Rotors...

I dunno what happened with your install or pads or rotors...

Did you bed the pads and rotors separately? Did you bed them in properly?

Atm I run Dixcel HS/FS Heat Treated and Slotted Rotors mixed with Endless MX72 up front with Dixcel M-Type on the rear, stops the car so hard I've falcon punched myself a few times...

Previous cars I've run Project Mu, Endless, RDA (They're lol worthy) and DBA (Not up to my standard but for the money, get what you pay for...) all of them at least slotted if not dimpled and slotted, no issues what so ever...

Edited September 27, 2011 by DreadAngel

[DJKOR]

I too find that it is a little odd to simply just narrow the problem down to the slotted design of the rotor. There is a lot more to it than just that.

[Foss]

Performance cars regularly use slotted rotors without issue. Unless you got a dud set (its a manufactured product, it happens sometimes) chances are the rotors themselves aren't the root cause of your problem, and definitely don't warrant a statement like "never buying slotted rotors again".

People are so fickle these days - one less than perfect experience and they'll hold a grudge forever.

[Steven]

it can very easily come down to improper bedding in. When the pads are heated up, they grab onto the rotor more and a small amount of pad material is left behind. This is why when you change to a performance pad sometimes the manufacturer of the pad will recommend you get the rotor machined first so the new pads can grip on the rotor properly.

If when bedding in you bring the car to a complete stop with the brakes on, you risk leaving a higher deposit of pad material in one spot. This may only be in the degree of microns, but can easily be felt under the pedal as sometimes sever pulsing which may falsely lead you into assuming the rotor itself is at fault.

I found this with my RDA slotted rotors, and the pulsing when the rotors got hot was very severe. Fortunately I happened across this information and was able to remove the deposits (whilst they were fresh) using emery paper.

If the deposits are left they will eventually harden and possibly expand, so that the effect becomes more noticeable even when not pushing the car hard.

Rotors actually warping is in reality a very rare event, especially if the rotor is at its max thickness.

Further, the ONLY rotor type considered inferior and unreliable are cross-drilled rotors. There are a select few out there that are actual built well and won't crack, but as a general rule they are the only design type that will give you issues. Regular slotted is fine.

[czaja74]

Thanks all for the replies. I cant comment on the installation as I haven't seen it done. I think that it might be improper bedding. This time I paid attention and bedded brakes properly.

[czaja74]

Just another update. Had my rotors machined just before X-mass. It was good till week ago. The light pulsation is back and it worse when rotors are warm. It is time to replace them. I fired Greg another email and see what his recommendation is. Current front rotors were on the car for 15 months non spirited driving/breaking. Hopefully will have more luck with the new set.

[czaja74]

Does anyone know what Toyota genuine rotors and pads. Just curious.

[Foss]

I'm not sure whether you mean brand or price? Either way...

Brand: PBR (I think)

Price: Trade - about $280ea, retail - no idea. Pads are about $80 trade, again retail I'm not sure.

[czaja74]

Thanks for the reply. I was offered $250 each for the front and $109 each for the rear plus $160 for f/r set of pads. Seems to be a decent offer. Other options was plain DBA with CT pads at $930 installed. Sitting on the fence....