Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine was fixed under warranty few years ago and has been a permanent fix.

Posted
On 2/21/2017 at 2:44 PM, Alex Red said:

PS In addition, after every rain I get the driver door leaks. Is it harmful to have water inside the door after every rain, or it will not affect anything? like sound system, etc? 

Where is the leak inside the door?  You'll always get water leaking down past the weatherstrip/bailey channel in to the door cavity as it would be impossible to seal and still allow the window to move up and down freely.  The door cavity will have a plastic waterproofing sheet separating the outer skin area (window glass, outer door handle, lock mechanism) from the inner skin area (inner door handle, window winder/switches, speakers etc), and holes drilled in the bottom to allow the water to drain out (these can clog over time if your car gets dirty all the time or you regularly park under trees).

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi all, I have the dreaded steering shaft isssue on my 2011 Kluger my question is other than Toyota has anyone else had this repair done by a local mechanic in Sydney? My local mechanic has said he wont do it!

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/4/2016 at 0:38 PM, pinot52 said:

You might need to try and get higher up the tree than the Customer Experience Centre. Always mention TNF 06/13 to Toyota and the Dealer.

This TNF 06/13 report was up on this Forum and was taken down.

This is part of an email I received back in May 2013 from the Technical Operations Manager, Customer Services Division at Toyota Australia in Taren Point NSW.

Dear Mr Doyle

Thank you for your email dated 22 March 2013 expressing your opinion in relation to a noise associated with your Toyota Kluger.

Toyota’s position regarding the “knock” type noise exhibited by the steering shaft at times remains unchanged. That is to say, that although you may hear a slight knock from the steering while manoeuvring, the system is and remains quite safe to operate. The bulletin you refer (TNF06/13), also reinforces that position.

We have placed your vehicle on a priority list to receive the revised shaft when it becomes available. The shaft will be installed to your vehicle free of charge .

Again, we reiterate, your vehicle is quite safe to operate in its present condition. If you wish, we are available to re inspect your vehicle at a mutually acceptable time and place. Please contact your local Toyota Dealer to arrange inspection.

We also add, that none of our technical staff have been able to identify a noise during any of the occasions that we have inspected your vehicle.

We respectfully advise that the Toyota document (TNF 06/13) carries a copyright clause which states that this material may not be reproduced or copied, in whole or part, without the written permission of Toyota Motor Corporation.

............

As I said earlier it took 3 replacement ISS before they fixed the issue.

John

4

Hi John
My Kluger is 2nd hand and is 2010.  I googled the TFN 06/13 but it wasn't there (as you said taken down).  
Is the best way to approach the Technical Operations Manager, Customer Services Division at Toyota Australia in Taren Point NSW to try and get this fixed at Toyota dealer.  my local mechanic will charge $655 to do it.

 


Posted

Hi Connan

I found the Customer Service persons at Taren Point, absolutely useless.

I suggest that you follow it up at a Toyota Service Centre. Speak to the Service Manager and mention TNF 06/13 Unfortunately, I can't post it up as I was threatened legal action by a 'clown' at Taren Point. I assume they had a bit of 'clout' with this forum and had it taken down.

Print your previous post and take it with you. If they get 'narky' and want to charge you, tell them Toyota have fixed numerous Klunkers under the TNF 06/13 Proof of them being fixed at no charge is all over this forum.

The evidence suggests that Toyota manufactured a car with a known fault and waited for customers to complain before fixing it. It should have been a General Recall.

I certainly DO NOT TRUST the person who wrote me the email, saying "the car was safe to drive". How would he know? My car ended up having 3 replacement arms before they got it right. All before it traveled 10,000 klicks.

Best of luck, do not give up and DO NOT pay anything. You can also say you will follow it up with Fair Trading.

John

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Any luck with this Cannon?

I am having same issue. And they want to charge it

Cheers.

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Good luck getting any support from Toyota Australia on this ...
I had this problem on my 2012 KXR some time ago at appx 70,000km.  Got the standard fob off from dealers re warranty fix.
Looking around I found there are 3 solutions to the problem...
... 1. Replace the intermediate shaft.  2. Remove and re grease the shaft.  3. Just replace the 2 shaft clamp bolts (cost about $6 for 2 from dealer).
Thinking it is best to start with the cheapest solution I replaced the clamp bolts and it worked.  I got the tip on doing that from another forum somewhere and it had worked for them.
The bolts may become a bit loose or the serrations near the head may wear... I don't know, but it worked for me and saved wasting a lot of hard earned $.
Done over 20,000km since and no knocking.
The part no shown below may not be the current one ?  Dealer parts dept will know.

90080-11555jpg.image.624x550.jpg

Edited by 11/16Aurion 12Kluger
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

Sounds great 11/16Aurion 12Kluger... where exactly are these bolts and are they a straight forward DIY job??

Posted

Thanks CONROD.... do you know if there are DIY tutorials of how to replace the bolts and grease shaft?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 7/24/2019 at 6:46 AM, cranks said:

 

Sounds great 11/16Aurion 12Kluger... where exactly are these bolts and are they a straight forward DIY job??

Easy DIY job but a bit awkward to get to.
The inside one is under dash just behind steering wheel.  A good light and a bit of flexibility is needed.  Move the steering back & forth while looking under there and you will see it.
The one underneath the engine area may need the car to be raised to get to it.  I got at mine by turning the wheels to the extreme left and used a socket extension.  A bit awkward but I got there.   Would be easier on a hoist.
Try replacing the bolts before going on the mission of greasing or replacing the intermediate steering shaft.  Many including myself have found that replacing the bolts fixed the problem.

Edited by 11/16Aurion 12Kluger
  • 8 months later...
Posted

I have a 2008 Kluger with this same knock in steering , it has done 210,000 km runs great very good car except for this problem . It is a manufacturers issue which is toyota responsibility to repair ! Has this issue been resolved ? 

 

Posted

Your vehicle is out of manufacturer's new vehicle warranty, more than 10 years old and done more than 100,000 miles [160,000kms].

Vehicle maufacturers now want you to buy a new vehicle. 

My vehicle was built October 2006 and now has 214,000 kms. I have a replacement vehicle built December 2008 and has done 109,000kms.

 

Suggest that you take the time to read all of the posts in this thread and make some notes as you go along. You can call Toyota Customer Service and see what they say.

From memory, you will find the part number for replacement bolts in one of the posts. I occassionally spray some grease onto this steering shaft.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/9/2020 at 4:05 PM, JEFFREY JAMES said:

I have a 2008 Kluger with this same knock in steering , it has done 210,000 km runs great very good car except for this problem . It is a manufacturers issue which is toyota responsibility to repair ! Has this issue been resolved ? 

 

Hello there

I had the same issue and fixed it by myself. It's been more than one year since I heard the clicking sound.

I used the thinnest needle ( I managed to get a 2ml syringe ) available to inject the chain lube ( the yellow colour bottle which you can get from 99bikes ) around 4ml to the shaft rubber seal. Did it on the opposite sides of the shaft for even lubrication. Started up the car and went for drive around the block only to find the sound gone !!!

 

Please do try this, and let everyone know if it worked for you.

Edited by MathewPN
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Start simple and work your way up...
1. Loosen and tighten the 2 clamp bolts or replace with new bolts. 
(Worked for me and other lucky owners.  Been fine for 35,000km now.)
See my post above.
..or,
2. Inject grease as explained above, or..
3. Remove, clean and grease, or..
4. Replace entire unit.

Edited by 11/16Aurion 12Kluger
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 4/18/2020 at 8:53 PM, MathewPN said:

Hello there

I had the same issue and fixed it by myself. It's been more than one year since I heard the clicking sound.

I used the thinnest needle ( I managed to get a 2ml syringe ) available to inject the chain lube ( the yellow colour bottle which you can get from 99bikes ) around 4ml to the shaft rubber seal. Did it on the opposite sides of the shaft for even lubrication. Started up the car and went for drive around the block only to find the sound gone !!!

 

Please do try this, and let everyone know if it worked for you.

I did exactly the same and it worked. Thanks guys.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership