Synthetic Oil

[mick0082]

Thats interesting,

Your engine oil shouldn't effect your gear changes. Your gearbox is seperate and is filled with its own oil.

...or i did i mis-interpret that last post?

[Kevsta]

During a gear change I don't press the accelerator - I notice that rpms drop down much faster with older oil. Do you change gears with the accelerator pressed down ? Perhaps it's the way I was taught to drive a manual car.

[mick0082]

Of course I lift off the accelerator when changing gears!

In your post I though that you were referring to the action of the shifter.

I would have thought the rate at which your revs drop during a shift would have little effect on shift quality/speed.

[kelvinsw]

Using Mobil 10w-30 since 5K, no problem, smooth than Castrol magnatec., will change gear oil to Redline MTL. Any one using Redline MTL?

ride=05 Manual Ascent

[SuperDave]

Redline MTL is for gearboxes. I'm using their Lightweight Shockproof gear oil, its very good. They do make a 10w30 engine oil. Redline is pretty much the best oil money can buy, could also try Motul 300V series.

[Mullet]

I have just done a 10,000km service. Using that new Castrol Edge 5w-30 and I kid you guys not, it revs to the redline like a freight train, this new Oil has definitely made a difference.

Would be interested to hear if any others are using this brand of oil.

Cheers All

PS I love my sportivo

[omn1potent]

[Post Removed]

Edited March 31, 2006 by omn1potent

[kelvinsw]

Just wonder Castrol edge is it really full 100% Synthetics? Is cheap compare to Mobil 1.

[MR22ZZ]

Just because it's cheaper doesn't mean it's not 100% synthetic.

There are many 100% synth engine oils around the $50 for 5L mark

[neK]

My car is due to have its 50,000 km in a week or so.

Ive read thru the thread and im more confused.

Which oil grading do i need, and what should i get?

Also will the dealer charge me more or refuse to service my car if i supply the oil instead?

Car is an AUTO btw.

[mick0082]

Generally rule of thumb over testing period.

Do not use Synthetic Oil in the first 20,000klm, this period if the full cycle run in period.

When you use Synthetic Oil, make sure the engine is fully drained. Also use 10-30w or 10-40w+, I have used 0-40w and it was toooooo thinnnnnn. Currently I have 10-XXw, much better.

Brand, well I have used Castrol, Nulon, Shell, Titan and Toyota Oil, all basically the same if it falls in the same XX-XXw range.

This is from my experience. Others may very.

BUT, the nulon additive for transmission, and the 80000klm Nulon treatment for engines do work, and fully recommend it. I have also used Slick50, but have found that the Nulon product is much better.

Thats interesting.

I've heard varying comments from different people about this. Both professional mechanics and also people involved in motorsport.

Some Support the above comment. Others say that if you plan to run an engine on synthetic you should put it in at the first service. Apparently they feel that switching oil types at a later time during the engines life can effect the cars performance (and perhaps longevity) as it has been run in on a different type of oil.

Not sure which of these is true.

I have seen a number of new engines switched to synthetic at 1000km, and I havent seen one of them burn oil yet.

Interested to hear everyone elses findings.

[teddy1386]

For those who are using the redline lightweight shockproof gearbox oil

do you guys just put 2 bottles of 1 US quartz or 2 and a lil bit more

the 1zz-fe gearbox is 1.9L where 1 US quartz is 0.946

[SuperDave]

I only got 2L out of my Sportivo gearbox. When I refilled it only 2 quarts would go in. Its ment to be 2.3L

Now for a useless fact.

Guess which gearbox oil is recommended for use in the one make racing series for Renault Clio's?

Redline Heavy Shockproof

Also neK, If you supply your own oil make sure you ask for the jug back. They might have just put the Toyota junk in and put yours in the boot of their car. I have been charged less for supplying my own oil too :D

Edited March 15, 2006 by SuperDave

[neK]

Thanks for the tip superdave.

I called up Toyota today regarding the 50,000km service, they told me it was $225 (and if supplied my own oil it would $25 less).

This has left me rather confused, if a 5L bottle of Mobile 1 Gold is like $95, then what $25 crap are they putting in my car? (They said it was Shell Helix Ultra) <_<

How many litres of oil should i supply them?

[vitagen]

hey just get a 5L container and do ask for the oil container back, go for castrol edge 5w-30, ive been using formula r for ages now and its great oil!

5L u should get <1 L back in the container, toyota mainly uses magnatec, its mineral based so i wouldnt use it

[kelvinsw]

So, what is the best? Both performance & $. Redline 5w-30, Castrol Edge 5w-30, Mobil 1 10w-30, Motul.

[vitagen]

i cant comment on other oils but castrol formula r was an awesome oil!, its called edge now so its 'alot better' or so they say, anyhow if they somehow improved on formula r, more reason to get it!

[kelvinsw]

Thx, will try Castrol edge next time. But I still have half Mobil 1, will it be alight to mix them together?

[eggbert_99]

I dont think its the best idea to mix different oils ... <_< <_< <_<

[vitagen]

you "can" mix oils but why bother? if you purchase the 5L container they will flush out the old oil anyway :)

[neK]

Looking thru the Repco catalogue today, Mobil 1 10W-30 5L (The Gold bottle) is $75, is that cheap? Or can it get cheaper?

http://www.repcoshop.com.au/ASP/Catalogue/CatPage12.asp

Edited March 28, 2006 by neK

[SuperDave]

Found this bit of info on www.elisetalk.com, thought it might help some people choose their oils ;)

Not all synthetic oil is really synthetic. The old adage you get what you pay for really applies when it comes to oil.

Synthetics can be broadly broken down into three types:

* Group III Hydrocracked:- Derived from normal mineral oil, technically not synthetic, but owing to lawyers getting involved can be sold as such. Lots of it on the market. Not bad stuff, but it's still Dino oil at the end of the day.

* Group IV Polyaphaolefins or POA's:- The real deal, made in the lab by guys in white coats. Mobil 1 is an example or *used* to be - they now mix in some hydrocracked basestock.

* Group V Polyol Esters:- The Rolls Royce of the synthetic world. Provides even better lubrication than POA's. Expensive but worth it if you're caning the engine. Motul, Redline, Amsoil, Silkolene and Royal Purple are examples. I personally use Motul 300V double ester.

The lawyer bit relates to a court case involving Castrol. They changed their formula from a group IV base stock to using group III. Mobil took them to court and unfortunately Castrol won. As a result a lot of companies changed their formula as well. So most of the so-called synthetics on the market today are based on inferior group III base stock. One major short coming of group III oils are their change in viscosity over time. This means for e.g. that a 40 weight oil will turn into a 20 weight oil. This is because group III oil doesn't have good shear resistance - meaning that the molecules get chopped up reducing the rated viscosity of the oil. Group V oils have excellent shear properties and maintain there viscosity for life of the oil. In addition group V oil provides excellent startup protection, lubricity and fuel efficiency. This is due to their attraction to metal surfaces. They are also excellent at preventing sludge and varnishing. Group IV oils are poor in this area and are often mixed with 10/20% group V base stock. Group IV and V oils are thermally more stable with good low and high temperature performance.

I certainly wouldn’t use anything less than a group IV oil, especially if your engine is mainly used on the track.

[ZEEROLLA]

Anyone knows whereabouts locally we can get Redline Gearbox oils? I am thinking of putting that in at my 50,000kms service, and for people with experience are they REALLY worth the extra $$? I have been using Castrol Syntrax 75W90 all along since my 1000km service. And anyone knows what gearbox oil Toyota uses in our C64 6 speed?

[mx83toy]

will it effect the warranty if i supply my own oil????

as long as the oil is within the normal operating limits as specified by toyota in the car manual then nope it wont void ur warrenty.

For the record im a royal purple man myself http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html ... and before anyone asks .... yes the colour of the oil is actually purple :P :P :P :P :P :P

this is the absolute best oil money can buy ....after AMSOIL :) goodluck finding AMSOIL though!!!!!you should see the bearing wear down test resaults!!!!! 4 times longer than mobil gold!!!!! then again it built for engines that rev to 18,000 rpm :)

[SuperDave]

Zeerolla: I got the lightweight shockproof in my tranny, I recommend it for every gearbox that can take it. The gearbox was easily smoother, less notchy and felt as though it could now handle hard 1-2 shifts.

Up in Brisbane (which doesn't really help you much) Thompsons and Coventry Auto Parts (Oz distributers) sell all Redline products.