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Better 2GR-FE Engine Cooling


campbeam
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Something I have been considering is a cost-effective way to improve the engine cooling capabilities either by increasing the engine oil capacity, fitting a larger capacity radiator and/or increasing the airflow through the engine bay.

I have previously thought about modifying the oil pan by fitting an in-line oil cooler but hesitant about doing this due to space and proximity to the exhaust. Also thought about the potential to modify the bonnet by fitting a bonnet vent/s but reluctant to be cutting a hole/s. 

On eBay, I have seen a replacement radiator for a TOYOTA Camry ACV40 with a thicker core [32mm] so this could be the preferred option for my GSV40 Aurion. Removing the engine cover may be an additional cooling option.

Has anyone done any of these options? 

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1 minute ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Is it overheating?

No overheating issues. Temperature sits right at the mid-point. Always looking for/considering optimal efficiency options/gains when replacing parts. 

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Not into wasting time and money. However, I do try to plan ahead. Better to research options and ask before an issue actually occurs.

I have had the plastic top section of the radiator previously crack/fail on 2 different vehicles. Therefore, if this was to happen to my 2006 Aurion, I would prefer to put in a heavy duty full aluminium radiator with the expectation that it would be more effective at cooling.

A contributing factor to engines that are more susceptible to sludge formation is poor design with insufficient oil sump capacity resulting in increased oil temperature. Fortunately, the 2GR-FE engine already has an oil cooler in its design. Still I do think that the 6.1 litre engine oil capacity is just adequate for a V6 particularly since 2.2 to 2.5litre 4 cylinder engines have a 5 litre engine oil capacity.

I am also considering eventually fitting a transmission oil cooler in front of the radiator but have yet to do so. 

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Related but not 100%... I added a remote spin on filter for the transmission. I have it just inside the lower grill opening. It means the trans has half a litre extra fluid and some extra cooling as the metal filter is right in the wind. Not as much as a trans cooler, but some. This may be a way to slightly reduce your coolant temp as less trans heat is going into the engine coolant.

 

I also have a scan gague which tells me coolant temp as read by the ecu. It usually sits at about 83 on colder days and 87 when its hot. On a long steep hill it has touched 91 but that is still safe and within the normal range. I think adding significant cooling isnt going to do anything good, might use more fuel... The easiest way to make the engine run cooler would be to fit a cooler thermostat so it opens and circulates coolant at a lower temp. Unless you tow up big hills - that might need more heat removal capacity.

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47 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Not into wasting time and money. However, I do try to plan ahead. Better to research options and ask before an issue actually occurs.

I have had the plastic top section of the radiator previously crack/fail on 2 different vehicles. Therefore, if this was to happen to my 2006 Aurion, I would prefer to put in a heavy duty full aluminium radiator with the expectation that it would be more effective at cooling.

 

I don't disagree with the full aluminium radiator thing if it makes you comfortable. Speak to a radiator specialist to get the appropriate one for your Aurion.

I realise the plastic tanks on the modern radiators do have a tendency to leak after a while. I guess this can be gauged during regular maintenance checks.

If it ain't broke then you have nothing to fix.

If you see weepage at some point, then it's time to replace I guess. You can even purchase a spare radiator and keep it in your garage if your the one doing the servicing.

I'm sure you always look under the hood regularly and If you see something that isn't right then you'd investigate further before driving off and risk breaking down wouldn't you ?

The modern radiators are quite reliable and I have seen them last over 250,000 klms.

You might be unlucky with some failing prematurely, yes this can also happen, but the percentage is very small. 

With regards to oil cooling, I think it's going too far. These cars are not hoon mobiles and are purchased by people who don't thrash their cars, so I really don't see the need, unless you thrash yours constantly.. Do you ??

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41 minutes ago, matt36415 said:

remote spin on filter for the transmission

Thank you for the suggestion about the spin on filter and also the cooler thermostat. I already have the transmission oil cooler and transmission filters so I had previously discounted the spin on filter option. Upon further consideration, it should be possible to fit it in series with the oil cooler. Will also do some research about a hi-flow thermostat ready for when the thermostat needs to be replaced.

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3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

With regards to oil cooling, I think it's going too far.

Don't thrash my vehicle mainly doing less than 3000 rpm except when overtaking on the highway.

I do a regular interstate trip from Brisbane to Wagga Wagga down the Newell Highway. Cruising all day and going up Cunninghams Gap without any problem. Temperature guage indicator sits horizontally at the halfway mark without any fluctuation. On my 1998 Camry, the temperature guage indicator sits just below the halfway mark. 

Not doing any towing at the moment but my unregistered 2008 Aurion is fitted with a towbar so maybe later in 2017/18. 

Personally, I like my vehicles to be totally reliable in all driving conditions ie cruising all day at 100-110kph or being able to crawl along at walking pace in congested traffic going past vehicles that have succumbed to overheating.

Also a great believer in both regular and preventative maintenance.

Nothing to fix at the moment but like to be prepared for the unexpected or unwanted event e.g. have recently replaced the VVTi oil line. Due to forward planning, I had the parts and instructions on hand. 

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Toyota OEM radiators and fan setups are incredibly efficient and reliable. Proof of this is, a Camry in Canada with 1100+whp and still running the stock radiator and cooling fans with absolutely no overheating.

With this in mind, the fear of failing tanks are the only real reason to replace a functioning factory radiator.

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4 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Toyota OEM radiators and fan setups are incredibly efficient and reliable.

Certainly not planning upon replacing the radiator unless/until it gets a crack in the top plastic section. This happened to the original radiator in my 1998 Camry about 2 years ago. Uneconomical to replace this section, so I bought a replacement new radiator from eBay which as advertised, fitted perfectly. I cannot remember whether this replacement had a slightly thicker core or was the same as the original.  

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12 hours ago, LordBug said:

setting up a mister in front of the radiator

Thank you for the suggestion. More food for thought.

Definitely a cost effective option worth actioning for those owners with motorhomes, caravans and boats towing them in hilly terrain or high temperature regions. 

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