TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36

[campbeam]

14 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

The spanner just doesn't hold a good grip, due to the round edge of the pan

Yes, that is why it is a pain to undo. I recall that I was able to use a ring spanner to initially loosen the bolt just a very little bit. Then it was a frustrating process using the open end of the spanner to loosen it a bit more. Finally went searching and located a very thin/minature sized 10mm spanner which finished off loosening it enough so I could then use fingers.

[krigeroz]

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

Yes, that is why it is a pain to undo. I recall that I was able to use a ring spanner to initially loosen the bolt just a very little bit. Then it was a frustrating process using the open end of the spanner to loosen it a bit more. Finally went searching and located a very thin/minature sized 10mm spanner which finished off loosening it enough so I could then use fingers.

How  would they do it at Toyota service, in the same way as us :)) ?

Now I can see that actually not many people have done it, taking off the transmission pan in Aurion :) 

And I also think that my chances pretty low at the moment unless I get some kind of a low profile spanner.

I was thinking if you can insert another nut on top of this 10mm bolt  in order raise it up a bit and then take it off with the spanner from the side...

Edited October 6, 2017 by krigeroz

[campbeam]

33 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

How  would they do it at Toyota service, in the same way as us :)) ?

Based upon previous posts by other Forum members, Toyota service refers to it as an oil strainer not as an oil filter. Hence not on their servicing schedule to be replaced [my conspiracy theory] . Most likely there is a more time-consuming method e.g. removal of sub-frame member.

I understand that Toyota Service will only change the transmission fluid at the specific request of the owner. Quite different if it is specifically stated on the servicing schedule for that particular model vehicle.

[krigeroz]

On 10/6/2017 at 12:10 PM, campbeam said:

Based upon previous posts by other Forum members, Toyota service refers to it as an oil strainer not as an oil filter. Hence not on their servicing schedule to be replaced [my conspiracy theory] . Most likely there is a more time-consuming method e.g. removal of sub-frame member.

When we pour back ATF, where does it go, to the  transmission itself or back to the pan?

Edited October 7, 2017 by krigeroz

[matt36415]

Take off passenger wheel, there is a small plastic panel towards the front of car from the drive shaft. Behind that is a big bolt / plug, from memory it was about 22mm. It has WS on it. Thats the refill plug.

[krigeroz]

On 06/10/2017 at 12:10 PM, campbeam said:

Based upon previous posts by other Forum members, Toyota service refers to it as an oil strainer not as an oil filter. Hence not on their servicing schedule to be replaced [my conspiracy theory] . Most likely there is a more time-consuming method e.g. removal of sub-frame member.

I understand that Toyota Service will only change the transmission fluid at the specific request of the owner. Quite different if it is specifically stated on the servicing schedule for that particular model vehicle.

Ok I got the pan, down just now, all together with the filter, I got 3.25L of ATF it is above 2.8L. What should I do, put back 3.25L or 2.8L ???

Edited October 8, 2017 by krigeroz

[Tony Prodigy]

15 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Ok I got the pan, down just now, all together with the filter, I got 3.25L of ATF it is above 2.8L. What should I do, put back 3.25L or 2.8L ???

Put back what you've taken out.

[campbeam]

I would be inclined to add an extra 100ml. Do a test drive and check that gear changes are still smooth and there are no leaks.

[L4WL3SS]

So is changing whatever oil pours out (30%) going to be beneficial? Do these transmissions have a history of failing at a certain amount of kms? I ask because i was going to have this done at my next service, but dont want to throw money away for nothing

[krigeroz]

Ok... 

I've been thinking to make a custom key.... then I've thought to try and hold and turn the key right upwards... because I just did not feel like raising and lowering the engine .

So if you hold your key in that position you will have a good chance to turn that bolt!!!

I did  not replaced the gasket, to me it was like new.

I was very surprised by the amount of ATF I got out, very surprised...

The new filter I filled with ATF, just to soak the paper, which is inside and drained the rest back.

I will put back 3.25L plus 50ml extra as that's how much it is probably was around the pan and the drain bucket.

Edited October 8, 2017 by krigeroz

[campbeam]

MetalHead,

Have another read of the posting by ZZT86 on September 21 [Page 3 of this thread] where he details his discussion with Penrite. This is consistent with internet postings by transmission shops recommending regular servicing of the transmission every 2-3 years or 40-50,000kms.

I replaced the ATF in the transmission pan last weekend and did it again yesterday morning.

There is a history of transmissions failing if they are not serviced after the ATF has reached the end of its useful life. This is why it was a high priority for my 2006 ATX with about 166,000kms on the odometer at that time. There is also a history of transmission issues after owners do a ATF change and get the transmission fluid level wrong. It is not a basic DIY task so better to pay an experienced Toyota transmission specialist rather than getting an expensive repair bill. 

 

[matt36415]

On 08/10/2017 at 7:24 PM, campbeam said:

 

There is a history of transmissions failing if they are not serviced after the ATF has reached the end of its useful life. This is why it was a high priority for my 2006 ATX with about 166,000kms on the odometer at that time. There is also a history of transmission issues after owners do a ATF change and get the transmission fluid level wrong. It is not a basic DIY task so better to pay an experienced Toyota transmission specialist rather than getting an expensive repair bill. 

 

I have done the pan drop on my 2aurions and have then done several drain and refills. Its pretty basic. Especially the drain and refill is only as hard as an oil change. 

Also look on toyota nation at the therads on V6 camrys, lots of people have done it. People panic and stress about it, yes it is an expensive part of a car to break but measuring what comes out and replacing the same amount of fluid just isnt hard.

[LordBug]

Heh, I had a mild penny drop moment at work yesterday about that evil bolt - why not replace it with a socket cap bolt? Lot easier to get a ball-end allen key up in that space, but as I haven't done the pan drop on this current Aurion of mine I can't remember if there's any limitations to doing that.
 

 

[campbeam]

8 hours ago, LordBug said:

why not replace it with a socket cap bolt? Lot easier to get a ball-end allen key up in that space

Good idea. If it works then it will make removing the transmission pan a simple task as it should have been if that sub-member was not there to restrict access to that bolt. Have to remember to have one of these bolts when I next do the transmission filter in about 2 years time.

At the time, I thought about using a longer bolt and a larger sized nut so that the bolt head would end up being raised above the outside lip of the pan thus easier to undo. Unfortunately, I could not find my collection of spare bolts and nuts at that time. Ended up not tightening that problem bolt too hard.

[krigeroz]

On 10/10/2017 at 7:17 PM, campbeam said:

why not replace it with a socket cap bolt? Lot easier to get a ball-end allen key up in that space

Very good thought! Which one do you think will fit?

[campbeam]

The socket cap bolt was Lord Bug's inspirational thought. I am expecting the bolt size to be M6 with a thread of  1.0

[LordBug]

Easiest way to work it out would be to remove one of the easy to access bolts and visit a fastener shop and get them to match it up.
 

[krigeroz]

Ok, I just went to my local fastener shop and they gave me M6 x 12mm for $1, by the end of the week I'll try to see if it fits or not. To me it looks like a good match.

You can get it here as well just select M6 x 12mm, note, it is without the washer.

 

And another thing is that I opened the pan again and got out another 850ml of ATF.  All together I have 4.1L to be replaced.  So far I raised car about 3 times. Every time you raise the car you get  about 500 to 800ml of ATF. 

Edited October 22, 2017 by krigeroz

[krigeroz]

I also just realised that my new ATF  replacement filter did come with the rubber ring and I thought that I've forgot to place it, however once I put it on, the filter was not going in, so I placed the filter without the rubber ring. That's why I was removing the pan again.

Edited October 17, 2017 by krigeroz

[campbeam]

Appreciate the information about the M6 bolt and the photos.

My replacement filter kit did not include the rubber ring so I reused the existing one. Possibly the small ring gasket that comes with the engine filter kit is the right size otherwise I will have to get one for the next transmission filter change.

From memory, I think that the rubber ring stayed in place on the transmission when I removed the existing filter.I also had a bit of fun trying to fit the new filter with the rubber ring on it. Sure that I ended up pushing the rubber ring all the way down and then bolting up the filter.   Do remember reading that this rubber ring is necessary to have a proper seal for the filter to work. Bit hazy about whether or not having the rubber ring in place can impact upon the gear changes.

[krigeroz]

Ok, finally I've assembled everything in one piece! 

I've managed to put back the rubber ring, at then end I got around 4.35L of ATF and I put back 4.4L. In order to get that amount of ATF, I jacked the car about four times. 

I've used the garden hose for pouring the ATF, which is 12mm in diameter and it fits perfectly.  

You don't need to raise the engine! Just apply my method, hold the key upwards and turn with the spanner on the other end, that's all you need to do, to open that bolt. And do the same to screw it back in. 

If you want to get more ATF just lift your car a few times and wait for about 30 min in between.

To open the ATF bolt you will need 24mm deep socket drive.

And I want to encourage everyone to change their ATF, there's nothing to worry about, If I did it, means you can do it as well. After doing this DIY I've also build the confidence with servicing my own car. 

Edited October 22, 2017 by krigeroz

[campbeam]

I use a 24mm ring spanner to loosen the fill plug and retighten using the German specification Guttentieten.

Nice torque wrench. It pays to invest in quality tools.

Good that you have been particular about measuring the volumes of ATF.

[krigeroz]

6 hours ago, campbeam said:

I use a 24mm ring spanner to loosen the fill plug and retighten using the German specification Guttentieten.

Nice torque wrench. It pays to invest in quality tools.

Good that you have been particular about measuring the volumes of ATF.

I got that wrench from Aldi for $30 and it is very good quality. 

And thank you and all others for helping out 

 

Edited October 22, 2017 by krigeroz

[Thirteen]

Alright firstly i want to thank you all, this is my first post, but i feel this thread provided very valuable information on how to DIY the transmission fluid swap. So i feel i should contribute to the post as others have done here to give something back :) A few of the questions i want answered got touched on, but im going to add my 2c, firstly because i have just finished doing the swap (and its bloody simple to do), secondly a few of the questions i had, breifly got answered, but i will go into more detail on the specific questions i had, thirdly, i didnt do it on an aurion, but i did do it on a 2GR-FE powered car. I realise this might not be the right section, but with the addition of what i have to the rest of the thread will help someone else no doubt.

Ok, so i bought an imported 2006 Estima Aeras G-Package. Aussie Tarago's are pretty pov by comparison. For those unaware, an Estima is a JDM model Tarago, however has heaps of extra features, but does come factory fitted with a 2GR and a U660E. However one issue i have got is there is virutually no guides for ACR50, GSR50 GSR55 model toyotas, and even the Australian Taragos i feel most people who own them won't know where to even start. I actually have owned many cars and bikes in the past and very compitent in the DIY department hence why i wanted to chip in.

So onto what i have discovered:

The aurion/camry/ ( US) avalon are essentially identical to the Estima underneath. Granted i have never even touched an ausrion/camry to do any work on, but judging from the other images they look identical to the estima. I simply googled a few guides and the process for the fluid swap was indentical. So anyone with an Estima/Tarago you can follow these Aurion/Camry/(USA Avalon) guides as the platform is nearly identical. And vice versa anythign i picked up about the Estima no doubt will apply to the Aurion/Camry etc.

One puzzling thing and could be a sligthy difference is the "death bolt". A 1/4" 10mm socket slips up perfectly between the chassis rail and the trans pan. Wether this is a slight difference, i'm unsure, but looking at the other photos in the thread it looks like you should be able to fit it up. Regardless on Estima slim 10mm socket and you can rip the pan off.

I won't go into the detail of how to do it cause others already have, however i will add, that i opt'ed to use Penrite ATF LV (light blue bottle as above). I decided this off others above using it also. I didnt use a scanguage or any method to measure the ATF temp, i applied the same logic as above. Whatever comes out, is what must go in. I purchased a Toyota genuine transmission strainer (filter) @ $140. Yes its pricey. However my logic is i wont change it for another 1-2 years so might as well spend the extra and get a legit filter rather than try save $100 on a filter with unknown quality. 

My car has 100,000 on the clock and not only do i have the dereg export papers from japan to verify the KM but there are servicing stickers stuck onto the car in Japan so i know its been serviced. Judging by the condition of the car its been very well looked after.

When i drained down the stock ATF it was still very red. Now it was still very clear and had a slight dark tint too it, but still in a very decent and serviable state. I replaced the strainer filter, the sump gasket, cleaned out the pan. I drained out of the sump, the strainer and the residual amount came 2.65L. However on the drip trey i had, it looked around another 200ml. So for argument sake lets say 2.8L, which falls in line with others here.

 The magnets had very minimum amount of sludge on them. Also to note, you cant get the magnet placements wrong as there are 2 indentations into the sump so you where to return them, if you pull them out and clean them. Wiped out the sump, refitted he gasket, fit new strainger, bolt sump on. 

Bear in mind also. I didnt flush the system out. I decided because the original fluid was still in reasonable shape i figured simply doing a few periodic changes would eventually flush it all free. The system apprently takes over 6L and i nearly recovered 3L just from the pan and filter,  Another point is people talk about mixing Toyota WS and other fluids together. Now this is purely my oppinion so take it with a grain of salt. The fluid ive placed in (penrite ATF LV) is specified as a replacement for Toyota WS, it looked just as a viscous, smelt the same, looked t he same and felt the same. I know that is absolutely nothing to go by as you need to study the fluids properties, but imo they look so similar, that mixing  them is really not going to cause any issues. Yes ideally flushing out all 6.5L is what is desired but this is about DIY. So my point being. I have a mix of the original Toyota WS and Penrite ATF LV in there.

Now the filling is the point where i think alot of people worry. Yes obviously no one wants to get it wrong and blow up the transmission, neither do i! However i really dont think you can go wrong here. I bought some plastic 1L measuring juggs from the shops. I had an empty 3L milk container and filled the 1L jugg from teh drain pan to get the exact measurement. Like i said i ended up with 2.65L with residual in the filter and stuff that kept coming out. So as the Penrite ATF LV is 4L, i basically marked the fill mark a bit above the 1L marker to make it around 2.8L, bought a cheap fluid pump and pumped until that "2.8L" marker. Its not even 100% accurate but its close enough. Once its in, fill plug on and tight, wheel on. Took it for a spin.

A little nervous on start up, but nothing to worry about. Took the car for about a 20 minute drive in the back streets and the main roads so i could hear  the transmission. I think as the original fluid was quite good there wasnt a huge improvement. However it did seems to change gears a bit smoother. I ran it through the sport mode into all the gears and gave it a hard run. Gear changes are very good and smooth. Absolutely no slippage at all. Over all worthwhile and very simple to do. I think anyone who can DIY change engine oil can follow the guide on here and do the same trans swap. Now granted i have a rough idea how much fluid is in the gearbox (about 2.8L) but thats wat came out give or take 50ml. Car seems to be running fine so cant really see any issues!

Any questions let me know, hopefully i can provide someone else with as much help as you guys have offered me :)

 

[Thirteen]

This clip basically showed exactly what to do, obviously compeltely different model of car, but in essense is EXACTLY the same. However we got luxury of drain plug! But you see the same stuff, drain fluid out, change filter, insert new oring, new gasket, bolt up in star pattern, fill with whatever came out. Ez lyf

Change Auto Trans fluid

 

Thanks