This is not a scam!!

[Suprathai]

CLEAN YOUR MAF SENSOR!!

Well i'm sure most people here might already do this on a regular basis. For the people that haven't done it before, do a search on the internet on how to clean your MAF sensor. I used electronic contact cleaner, from jaycar at $10 a can. Its pretty straight forward, remove MAF sensor, remove O-Ring, and blast away with the can, let it dry, reinstall the MAF sensor (remember to plug it in :D ).

Take care though cause you wouldn't want to damage it ($$$).

Anyways my car does not sound as rough and idles lower and the does not vibrate as much. Dare i say that power delivery is smoother, no extra power though. I'm more happy with this result then my CAI. :(

Cheers

P.S. If this is already stickied or something, then my apologies...just too excited!!

Edited August 5, 2006 by Suprathai

[Azza]

Has anyone else done this yet???

I'm a bit cautious as the MAF Sensor is a really sensative componant. (I thinks Sads busted his didn't he...?)

[sportiv]

i thought everyone did this. i use the same stuff from jaycar as you do and to be honest your maf must have been very very dirty to feel a difference.. but theres no harm in cleaning it once in a while. :D

[MR22ZZ]

I've cleaned mine 3 times... cleaned it Thursday night before my track day.

Never had a problem from just cleaning it, it's dead easy.

[Suprathai]

Well i don't think its ever been cleaned before, already travelled 78Ks. I could physically see some particles on the IAT diode (i think thats what its called), didn't look at the wires itself, but if that is any indication it is pretty filthy.

Cheers

[vyets]

yea iv done it befor it helps heaps

so if u have any power probelms like car feeling sluggish or not as responsive as it should be give it a go it might help.

[JJCRU23R]

ok after reading your posts and repliez this post has totally lost me -

what am i supposed to be cleaning?

please explain???

whats a maf sensor?!???

where can i find it???

diy tutorial anywhere anyone??

suddenly i feel so dirty coz i didnt know i was supposed to clean something...

[Suprathai]

I'm guessing that you haven't installed a CAI before then. To answer your questions.

MAF = Mass Air Flow (I hope i'm right).

Its a sensor that is used to measure the amount of air that is flowing through the airbox going into the engine. By measuring the amount of air going in, it can correctly inject the correct amount of fuel based on its fuel map. Now obviously if the sensor is dirty then it will not allow for the optimum fule mixture (as if the factory map is optimum anyway), in more worst cases you will get a CEL (Check Engine Light, which means you can't rev past 3Krpm ).

I remember finding a DIY for the corolla on the net somewhere, can't find it anymore :(

Maybe I will make a DIY and post it in the workshop submissions area.

Cheers

[blue_rolla]

i cleaned mine for the first time over the weekend - if you look at the diode thing, its got a kinda clear amber colour to it, and you can see whatever it is inside the diode... well one side was amber, the other side was black and dusty... so cleaning it made it look better... i reset my ECU at the same time, but i hit the rev limiter and thrown everything out of whack, so ill reset again and let you know...

i bought contact cleaner from ***** smith - $12.95 per can...

[SyxXPaC]

Geez didn’t see this thread i was about to post about my experience on the weekend when i went to find my idle problem that i have had with the 1zz since i got it.

I gave the car to the mechanics and my dad( Who is one) and they pull off my CAI Cleaned out my throttle body ( which had black **** in it). They then took my maf odd the cai and cleaned it with contact cleaner, It was quite black and then it turned to a light brown once clean. Whilst the guy was putting the maf back into the cai he noticed the O - Ring around the bottom of the MAF socket was quite thin and the fitting of this into the cai hole was not heaps tight. So we put a thinking o ring around it and it just squeezed into the hole.

He said because the Toyota O- Ring's are Sh!thouse they tend to F*$K up when they get too much heat. And this is where air would have been leaking even when i had the stock airbox.

SO we put it all back together and i have been driving for 3 days And have not once felt like its bubbling on idle at all.

SO all those people with the 1ZZ issue of bubbly idle i would suggest getting i slightly thinker o ring around the maf and make it a tight fit into the cai.

The throttle response has improved dramatically and even changing gear feels different in normal driving.

I’m doing a Voltage stabilizer and full grounding kit next week ( I know its a **** mod but it was cheap) and then ill hit WSID once more before the weather warms up and see if its made any difference :P

Bill

[Suprathai]

Its great to see that people have responded to this post and shared their experiences. I too went investigating into my cars stationary habits (it vibrates too much i think), i don't think my mechanic looked into it last time <_< I was actually starting to get a bit worried cause no one replied, lol, thinking i'm a noob and all.

Cheers

[SuperDave]

This is the best bit of info on cleaning a MAF sensor. I only skimmed over what was said earlier so not sure if it is still needed.

link

[neK]

ive read thru the thread, but i still have no idea how to clean the MAF sensor.

For starters where the hell is it?

I dont have CAI just a standard Airbox with a K&N panel filter.

Can anyone supply photos of where it is?

Edited August 23, 2006 by neK

[Suprathai]

I grabbed this photo of the gallery, my apologies for not asking first to the owner of this photo.

This is the 2zzge, but should be in a similiar place for the 1zz as well,

Cheers

Edited August 23, 2006 by Suprathai

[neK]

Thanks for that!

Now i know where it is, i might be able to do some cleaning :D

Now for the next question, which one is the MAF sensor?

http://www.nopiforums.com/index.php?showto...entry9135

(Post #20)

I just take it out like shown in the picture right?

I dont really need to take apart that that "T" shaped unit apart do i? (ie take the actual resistor looking object out? or do i just spray it at that point?)

Im guessing the guy has confused the MAF sensor with the IAF sensor? (Based on the info from this pic)?

Now what about the "O" ring what do i need to do with that?

[Suprathai]

I'm not sure which one is the air sensor, I just cleaned both of them. IIRC the Amber diode that he is showing is actually the Intake Ambient Temperature Sensor (IAT). The MAF is two thin wires that is located within the housing of the plastic shield. Remove the O-ring prior to cleaning, cause most electrical contact cleaners will cause swelling when coming into contact with the O-ring. Remember to be careful to not to damage the wires that are inside the housing. I'm not sure of the price for the new one ( I think its $180), but I know that WRX ones cost about $500. Just be careful thats all. Just use the contact cleaner and give it a few blast.

Cheers

Edited August 24, 2006 by Suprathai

[neK]

How do i actually remove the O Ring?

From the picture here

it looks like its all one unit. Does the "T" shaped item twist off for me to get the O Ring out? Or can i simply try to be more careful and not spray the O ring at all.

What happens to the swelling of the plastic if it comes in contact with the O Ring, i read somewhere it will just swell temporarily but then go back to normal afterwards.

Oh and after i spray the MAF and IAT sensors, i should just hold on to it until it dries (how long is that btw) and then just screw it back in?

Thanks again for all the info!

[SuperDave]

For the O-ring, just get a flathead screw driver and place it undernieth and pull it out and up.

Metho is also good to clean the MAFS, just so you don't have to run out and buy electrical contact cleaner.

[neK]

For the O-ring, just get a flathead screw driver and place it undernieth and pull it out and up.

Metho is also good to clean the MAFS, just so you don't have to run out and buy electrical contact cleaner.

When you say get a flathead screwdriver and pull it out, im assuming the actual "T" shape object stays in one piece and the O Ring expands like a normal rubber band which allows you to simply roll it out?

And ive just gone out to Jaycar to buy some Contact Cleaner... $9.95, the Jaycar stuff is good to use right?

Edited August 25, 2006 by neK

[SuperDave]

I'm not sure what the best cleaner is, but I hear that it has to be non-chlorinated.

Yeah the O-ring just rolls off.

[traumatized]

i'm not sure which contact cleaner everyone else has used but i used some that i had laying around from awhile back made by CRC, D*ck Smith also sells thier own brand that does not leave an residue.

I beleive you should be looking out for one that does not leave any residue or lubes as it cleans as it leaves a think film on the sensor which may cause issues.

[neK]

hmmmmz

ive just bought one from JayCar

Electrical Clean and Lube.

CAT NA 1012

Should i return it then?

Whats a good Contact cleaner?

[Suprathai]

Return it and get the other one, the light green can.

Because it also lubes, it leaves behind a film of lubricant. This film of lube easily allows particles to attach to it. The O-Ring just rolls off. Give it a few blast. Let it dry, its really quick as it rapidly evaporates.

Cheers

[neK]

Return it and get the other one, the light green can.

Because it also lubes, it leaves behind a film of lubricant. This film of lube easily allows particles to attach to it. The O-Ring just rolls off. Give it a few blast. Let it dry, its really quick as it rapidly evaporates.

Cheers

Im guessing you're talking about this one?

Or should i go to D1ck Smith and get this

CRC NF Contact Cleaner $19.95

CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe formula is a technically proven, stable, inert high purity cleaning solvent. It is non-corrosive, non-staining, and has a rapid-complete evaporation - contains no lubricants.

It is formulated to remove light contaminants, dust, lint, atmospheric⁄oils, finger prints, moisture from precision electrical⁄electronic equipment where lower-flashpoint solvents may be used. It leaves no residue to increase resistance. 350g can.

or

CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant

A specially formulated lubricant that provides the single operation of both cleaning and lubricating sensitive switches and contacts.

The special solvents used can chemically dissolve and quickly clean away oils, grease, dust and atmosphere contaminants and then quickly evaporate to leave a thin film that will protect and lubricate the surface. 300g aerosol can.

[Suprathai]

Just exchange it, it does the job and has no deterimental effect.

Its like saying get a generic CAI or a TRD one....not much in between them, unless that generic one is really that bad.

Save your $10 and get yourself some better engine oil or something.

Cheers