Headlight Adjusting

[Fidzeh]

Hi guys, was wondering if anyone here has a clue on how to adjust the height of the lights.

I just recently bought HID's for my car but I think that the beam is too short and would like to raise it abit higher.

My guess that it would be that circle dial thing with a screw ontop of it just ontop of the low beam lights but I could be wrong? cause i've tried twisting it clockwise and anti-clockwise doesn't seem to be doing anything, any clues anyone?

hope someone understands what im talking about.

thanks in advance james.

Edited October 31, 2008 by JZA

[DJKOR]

I'm guessing you only noticed the obvious one at the top (circled in first photo). If you look lower next to the high beam bulb cover you will see another adjustment screw (circled in second photo). I don't know which one is horizontal and which one is vertical. I'm guessing the top one is horizontal judging by the fact that you didn't really notice any difference. I'm not going to test it either sorry. I find headlight aiming a real nuisance, and the factory aim is always just so perfect and I'd hate to ruin it. Also, the headlight assembly is both joint on the low beam and high beam so if your low beams are aimed correctly, your high beams should be as well.

On a side note: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. This is to keep the aiming mechanism tight and reduce the chance of vibration causing it to come out of alignment.

[Speedz]

even i would like to think alot of us thinks the factory beam was set up properly/perfectly...

Wheels had a absolute dummy spit on the Aurion beam set up during their review... (I think its the Aurion rather the Camry...)

[LEGEND888]

I'm guessing you only noticed the obvious one at the top (circled in first photo). If you look lower next to the high beam bulb cover you will see another adjustment screw (circled in second photo). I don't know which one is horizontal and which one is vertical. I'm guessing the top one is horizontal judging by the fact that you didn't really notice any difference. I'm not going to test it either sorry. I find headlight aiming a real nuisance, and the factory aim is always just so perfect and I'd hate to ruin it. Also, the headlight assembly is both joint on the low beam and high beam so if your low beams are aimed correctly, your high beams should be as well.

On a side note: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. This is to keep the aiming mechanism tight and reduce the chance of vibration causing it to come out of alignment.

MATE!! HAHAHA! ive been paying attention to this DJ KOR user name! and everytime isee ur user name.. i always see you make a very2 useful post... u always willing to take pics and use it as a guide and help people....

REALLY MATE!

U R AN ASSET TO THE FORUM!!

CHEERS :D

[Fidzeh]

ah thanks alot djkor :D as i was examining it i looked closer and there's another one other than you showed me, looks abit risky to play around with :\ might just leave it till i can buy another pair to follow my plans up with it~

much appreciated.

[Ascendant Rice]

I'm guessing you only noticed the obvious one at the top (circled in first photo). If you look lower next to the high beam bulb cover you will see another adjustment screw (circled in second photo). I don't know which one is horizontal and which one is vertical. I'm guessing the top one is horizontal judging by the fact that you didn't really notice any difference. I'm not going to test it either sorry. I find headlight aiming a real nuisance, and the factory aim is always just so perfect and I'd hate to ruin it. Also, the headlight assembly is both joint on the low beam and high beam so if your low beams are aimed correctly, your high beams should be as well.

On a side note: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. This is to keep the aiming mechanism tight and reduce the chance of vibration causing it to come out of alignment.

MATE!! HAHAHA! ive been paying attention to this DJ KOR user name! and everytime isee ur user name.. i always see you make a very2 useful post... u always willing to take pics and use it as a guide and help people....

REALLY MATE!

U R AN ASSET TO THE FORUM!!

CHEERS :D

Yeh DJ KOR is a bloody legend:) keep it up daryl

[dave262]

I find headlight aiming a real nuisance, and the factory aim is always just so perfect and I'd hate to ruin it.

Totally agreed... It is really very nicely adjusted - so much so that I think even if the service place touched it they would likely stuff it up!

Mine was perfect when I got it, beautiful sharp cutoff line, and a beam that would light up the road for miles up ahead - until a branch fell while I was driving at 60km/h, hit the front edge of the bonnet, smashed the windscreen and dented the roof... and now results in a beam that has a blurry center point with a dodgy cutoff line =\

Dunnoh what to do now... fix it myself and possibly make it worse, or get service to do it and likely do the same!

[DJKOR]

ah thanks alot djkor :D as i was examining it i looked closer and there's another one other than you showed me, looks abit risky to play around with :\ might just leave it till i can buy another pair to follow my plans up with it~

much appreciated.

Was there really a third adjustment screw? I was cleaning up my engine bay earlier and was curious, so I took another look. I was unable to find any more adjustment screws than what I had shown already. By any chance, were you referring to this:

If so, that would be the buzzer that goes "beep beep" when you lock/unlock your doors. Quite odd having it in the headlight eh.

Edit: OMG; I feel so stupid now. The third adjustment screw was sitting right in front of me. I wasn't quite thinking outside the box. Looks like this is the up/down aiming screw. I have read that all you need to do is insert a Philips head screw driver into there and turn, but I'm not going to experiment on that.

I find headlight aiming a real nuisance, and the factory aim is always just so perfect and I'd hate to ruin it.

Totally agreed... It is really very nicely adjusted - so much so that I think even if the service place touched it they would likely stuff it up!

Mine was perfect when I got it, beautiful sharp cutoff line, and a beam that would light up the road for miles up ahead - until a branch fell while I was driving at 60km/h, hit the front edge of the bonnet, smashed the windscreen and dented the roof... and now results in a beam that has a blurry center point with a dodgy cutoff line =\

Dunnoh what to do now... fix it myself and possibly make it worse, or get service to do it and likely do the same!

It's a bit of a tough one. You can experiment yourself and if all else fails, then take it to the service centre. The thing is, when doing the manual headlight adjustment, it doesn't take much to throw everything out of line. With projectors, because of the sharp cutoff, you can easily see where it is aimed against a screen, but also as well, because the projector lights up only a selected area, it needs to be fairly spot on.

In the factory, they have a machine that automatically aims them, hence the perfect aim nearly all the time, but I'm not too sure what the service centres would use. But yeah, having the low beams aimed correctly is essential because the high beams aim depends on it (which from factory, the high beams light up distance perfectly).

[Fidzeh]

hmm I think thats the one but im not sure ill check tomorrow and take a photo and show ya what i'm on about, I just got frustrated that day trying to work it out I looked around and saw 3 so then I just left it haha.

[conroe]

The third adjustment screw was sitting right in front of me. I wasn't quite thinking outside the box. Looks like this is the up/down aiming screw. I have read that all you need to do is insert a Philips head screw driver into there and turn, but I'm not going to experiment on that.

I need to adjust my lights too since it is aiming too high because of the change in the rear springs .

I had a look at the one above and just throw my arms up in the air. I could just be able to see geared screw from the vision hole. Definitely more like socket than a screwdriver and facing from the inside for access which isn't easy to get to.

Looks like the job for the service department, maybe they have the special tool required for turning the gear from the top.

[DJKOR]

The third adjustment screw was sitting right in front of me. I wasn't quite thinking outside the box. Looks like this is the up/down aiming screw. I have read that all you need to do is insert a Philips head screw driver into there and turn, but I'm not going to experiment on that.

I need to adjust my lights too since it is aiming too high because of the change in the rear springs .

I had a look at the one above and just throw my arms up in the air. I could just be able to see geared screw from the vision hole. Definitely more like socket than a screwdriver and facing from the inside for access which isn't easy to get to.

Looks like the job for the service department, maybe they have the special tool required for turning the gear from the top.

My imagination didn't extend far enough the very first time I found that adjustment gear. It is true though that there is no need for a special tool. A number 2 Philips head will do the trick. The points of contact of the Philips head perfectly meshes with the adjusting gear.

[conroe]

My imagination didn't extend far enough the very first time I found that adjustment gear. It is true though that there is no need for a special tool. A number 2 Philips head will do the trick. The points of contact of the Philips head perfectly meshes with the adjusting gear.

Ah... thanks a lot for that information. Feeling a little frustrated since I had just discovered that the headlights is out of alignment and it is all because the springs factory that I went to did not know what the standard height was and took three goes before they came close and now I have to muck around with the headlights <_<.

Might give it another go tonight.

Cheers

[Kenpo]

Just the other day I was changed my parker lights. I got the 25 LED white ones?

They are too long, but I got it in there ;)

Anyway, I had no idea how to take the original parker light out and well I was curios with what the bolt closest to the parker light did.

I turned it clockwise for a while then realised it wasn't making a difference.. until last night I went for a drive and saw that my right low beam had been dropped dramatically.

I would assume that the bolt (the one with the gear teeth under it) changed it.

From what I remember, there are three of these bolts behind there. It was the closest one to the parker light that changes the low beam vertically.

I took off my whole bumper when I did this, so I really can't be bothered doing it again for photos.

But if required, I'll give it a go and take a photo.

[conroe]

Ok it works to a certain extent.

I went inside the shopping centre and made the attempt to adjust the lights there.

However, when I am making the adjustment it feels as the light beam shines lower, it converges, which mean it also requires the adjustment from side to side.

Furthermore the high beam for the passenger side shines higher afterward. When I try to lower it to match the right one, the low beam on that side almost touches the ground

At this stage I haven't touch the side adjustment yet since I haven't been able to figure out which screw does what. Definitely not a job for the faint hearted. At least now when I drive at night people won't be so annoyed anymore.

Edited October 29, 2010 by conroe

[DJKOR]

This is why I absolutely hate touching headlight adjustment screws. No matter how hard I try, I can never get the aim perfect again.

[conroe]

This is why I absolutely hate touching headlight adjustment screws. No matter how hard I try, I can never get the aim perfect again.

I know exactly what you mean and I didn't want to either but I didn't have a choice .

[Buff Hamster]

Thread revival.

The 1st one is definitely horizonal adjustment but the 2nd one i do not know what is does even after turning it for a while.

Does anyone know which one is for vertical? Got the car back and the headlights are too high.

[DJKOR]

Thread revival.

The 1st one is definitely horizonal adjustment but the 2nd one i do not know what is does even after turning it for a while.

Does anyone know which one is for vertical? Got the car back and the headlights are too high.

Please go back a page and look again.

[Buff Hamster]

Thanks for that "Boris". Guess it was the 3rd one you found but even then, what does the 2nd pic with the screw near the high beam do?

Edited July 5, 2012 by A Buff Hamster

[Buff Hamster]

Does anyone know what the 2nd screw heard the high beam does? Kept turning it and saw nothing.

[DJKOR]

Does anyone know what the 2nd screw heard the high beam does? Kept turning it and saw nothing.

I would be guessing the one next to the high beam adjusts the high beam. Because they are set to go distance, you probably need to increase you test distance to start to see what you have done.

[Rickxxxx]

Does anyone know what the 2nd screw heard the high beam does? Kept turning it and saw nothing.

I would be guessing the one next to the high beam adjusts the high beam. Because they are set to go distance, you probably need to increase you test distance to start to see what you have done.

I haven't adjusted the Aurion's lights but have adjusted headlights on lots of other cars. Their should only be two adjusting screws, the third one is just a pivot point. Think about the movement needed. For the screws to move the light they need a fixed point to pivot on. Also, I have found it easier to aim high beam. When that is right low beam is right to.

[spottie]

Sometimes, you have no choice but to adjust the headlights - mine were too high Once I worked out what each of the 4 adjustment screws did, I got a reasonable result. Hopefully you can see 2 photos of the LHS headlight which shows the locations on my 2008 AT-X Aurion... links below.

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/sp0t13/Headlight1b.png

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/sp0t13/Headlight2c.jpg

Unless I'm mistaken (and I could be as I only needed to adjust the low beam vertical), the screw directions for adjusting are as below (according to the size 2 screwdriver turn, not the hex head on the screw which will twist in opposite directions).

For the LHS;

• Low beam vertical, down is clockwise
• Low beam horizontal, right (inwards or towards the middle) is clockwise
• High beam vertical, up is clockwise
• High beam horizontal, right is clockwise

For the RHS;

• Low beam vertical, down is clockwise
• Low beam horizontal, left (inwards) is clockwise
• High beam vertical, up is clockwise
• High beam horizontal, left is clockwise

[Rc8]

Hi, reviving this old thread.

I need to adjust my low beam vertically and as per the photo, that plastic hole doesn't have anything in it.

Can anyone help! Thanks

Edited November 20, 2019 by Rc8

[Presara1964]

Hi everyone,

Aurion Presara 2008 HID XENON lights

After looking for advice almost everywhere and no luck, I thought I might post this to assist others in replacing and aligning Presara HID headlight bulbs

Just fixed two issues, the first a low beam turning off after about 15-20 mins, turn the switch off then back on, all ok for another 15 mins. read a lot of advice on here and other forums and was still unsure if it was just a bulb or the Ballast.

Decided to do it via front bumper removal as I'm not a contortionist, to get easy access to the lights.

Comprehensive guide here for bumper removal- https://youtu.be/qcZpFlovAxQ        Light assemblies shown in the video are NOT the Xenon HID, but the bumper and assembly removal/replacement is the same.

Rather than disconnect fog lights and the headlight washers I simply rested the bumper on some boxes while working on the lights.

There is a grey cover with 4 x screws - remove this to give access to low beam bulb. Rotate electrical connector to disconnect, undo the spring clip and remove the bulb, take note of its orientation,
replace with new bulb ( wear clean cotton gloves when handling bulb) reassemble spring clip and connector and put the cover back on checking the gasket is fitted correctly.

Swapped the two bulbs from side to side, and tested for 20mins, the fault moved with the bulb 👍. So no need to change the Ballast

I had already purchased two replacements from :
https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-xenarc-d4s-mercury-free-single-xenon-hid  for AU$138.34

Re-assembled and tested everything- all good, but first night time driving I noticed the Drivers side light was not adjusted correctly and the beam was fuzzy.
Back into the garage and off with the bumper again- only took around 10 mins the second time, pulled the light off and the clip that holds the xenon bulb had spring off- therefor the bulb was sitting slightly off, causing the odd beam angle- a quick clip back in, re assemble and all good again.

While the bumper was off the car I did a headlight alignment, the ONLY way I found this was possible  seems to be while the bumper is off. When the headlight assemblies are fitted into the car most of the adjustment screws are inaccessible. 

I setup measurements, marked out beam height and centre of cut-off line on the garage wall and let the auto level/align work its wonder, then pulled the light assembly just out of the front far enough so it was hanging loose but still turned on, adjusted then clipped the assembly back into its position to check. repeat adjust/repeat until it was spot on. 

The light assembly clicks nicely into its correct place without bolts so its very quick to remove adjust and replace each time.

Turned off and restarted ignition and lights for auto adjust to kick in- still perfect, bolted the lights back in and reassembled the bumper.

Image below shows the screws for LO BEAM vertical and horizontal adjustments- the vertical screw when in position is impossible to access as it inside the guard. 

Did not need to adjust hi beams as they were good.

 

 

Edited May 24, 2022 by Presara1964