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Gearbox oil and Gear shifting problems


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In this very live forum there has been a lot of discusssion about the gear shifting problems in sportivos, which seems to be a common characteristic of gearboxes of sportivos or Corolla T Sports or ....

In Australia, the shifting problems have been correlated to clutch adjustment problems. I personally think the gearbox and the gear changing mechanism are problematic. And I would like to bring into discussion another parameter that may affect affect our gear shifting: the gearbox oil.

I did some search and it seems that there is a variety of gearbox oils and some of them are explicitly recommended for gearboxes with difficult changes: MOTYLGEAR 75w-90 (tecnosynthese: semi-synthetic)

The fully synthetic MOTUL Gear 75w-90 also claims improvement in shifting.

The synthetic VALVOLINE Gear Oil 75w-90 is supposed to make easier the shifting at lower temperatures. The same claim is not repeated for the semi-synthetic and mineral Valvoline gearbox oils.

This may be related partly to marketing strategies but there should be also some real effect.

You may check this site:

http://www.valvolineeurope.com/index.asp?p...602c65548fe5c32

So, we must be sure that our dealerships use the proper oil for our problematic gearboxes.

Edited by CTS03
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A few of us (including me) have placed the redline MT90 gear box oil.... and it has sorted the niggly issues with cold gear box shifting

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gearbox!  The issue is with the selector cables and selector, especially the selector when the ball loosens with its plastic enclosure, rattle city here we come again!

Is there a fix for this problem of the selector? Can they just change the ball and plastic enclosure and are they supposed to be consumables?

Is this related to the "gear rattles" problem?

My experience is that when the gearbox is cold and at low speeds (e.g. 3-4K rpm), it is difficult to move the selector into the "gear sites". Most frequently, it appears difficult even to find the "gear gate" itself (e.g. from 1st to 2nd): my right hand is ... searching around.

Everything becomes smooth when the car is warm and/or I accelerate very hard during changes. We could say that this car was built to be driven really fast; constantly above 5k rpm!

This means driving within the city becomes a nightmare!

My clutch has been replaced because of burning smells in routine driving maneuvers; it was slipping very easily. It is rather very tight now but I think this should be the right situation.

I had "gear rattles" appearing above 4.5-5K rpm but my mechanics somehow fixed it up to the lift point. Probaly by inserting some of the usual soft materials.

There has been no recall for selector cables change in Europe.

Edited by CTS03
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  • 1 year later...

read a few post, it says

most people recommend REDLINE gearbox oil....

MT90 or the shockproof, how much are they??

and how much do we need for a 1ZZ corolla? # bottles?

some also say Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 is pretty good. I guess it should be cheaper right?

But many says its bad when its COLD, is it true?? I work night shift, so the car gets really cold at night...

help please

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read a few post, it says

most people recommend REDLINE gearbox oil....

MT90 or the shockproof, how much are they??

and how much do we need for a 1ZZ corolla? # bottles?

some also say Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 is pretty good. I guess it should be cheaper right?

But many says its bad when its COLD, is it true?? I work night shift, so the car gets really cold at night...

help please

Redline over $100 for 3 litres. Castrol Syntrax $75 for 3 litres. Redline is GL4, Castrol is GL5, Redline says GL4 is better for synchros than GL5 oils. I have had both oils (MT90 and Syntrax), Syntrax is good for track use, super smooth. MT90 is 75W90 as well, there is even GL6 oil by other manufacturers. As far as i know the Stivo uses 75W90 GL4 or GL5.

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I use penrite 10tenths 75/90 gear oil which is GL-6 which is more for LSD grearboxs. I'm not sure if there are any adverse effects of using it in a normal box though. Feels great but I think needs changing. Will get it done next service and was ~$55 for 2.5L (the perfect amount). It's been in there 12 months now.

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wow!! i didnt know that gearbox oil is more expensive than engine oil...

redline is too much for me!! $100 or more?!

penrite... <_<.. hmm price is great

whats the next best after Castrol Syntrax since im not going to use it for tracks..

is it still good for normal driving...

My gearbox is really old now. there are all kinds of tiny problem

Its really loud when i can change gears. will syntrax improve these?

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hmm one question

where abouts do u refil the gearbox oil?

been trying ta find it in my engine bay

but theres only the brake fluid and power steering places on the sportivo

there isn't like an obvious reservoir or cap. it's sorta like a nut thing, looking like the sump plug for draining engine oil and it's better if u look from below the car :P

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hmm one question

where abouts do u refil the gearbox oil?

been trying ta find it in my engine bay

but theres only the brake fluid and power steering places on the sportivo

there isn't like an obvious reservoir or cap. it's sorta like a nut thing, looking like the sump plug for draining engine oil and it's better if u look from below the car :P

i didnt know it too..

thx shaohoak

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on the sportivo from memory it is below the trottle body, it is a 10mm allen key screw/nut, to refill or top it up you will need a funnel, i used a fexible funnel the one you can grab for like $2 at supercheap auto. and the drain nut is easier to see when your under the car.

oh another thing the only indication you have really that you have filled in enough gearbox oil is when it over flows from the filler hole (oil no longer flows into the hole and remains in the funnel), or you can stick you pinky in the hole and if you can feel oil the level should be ok.

Edited by traumatized
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