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Steven

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Everything posted by Steven

  1. Brakes installed, quick road test shows no issue and very similar to stock pedal feel. Taking her up Nebo later for an easy bed in, won't be doing a hard test of their ability for another week so they can bed in properly. Everything bolted on without any issues. Further as the picture shows it will easily fit under the factory sportivo wheels as long as you don't have mega huge balancer weights on the inside rim. I had a few small ones in mine and it still had about 3-5mm clearance where the weights were.
  2. The HP-X are a fantastic street pad that will cope with a bit of fun without too much drama. For everyday use it comes highly recommended and had low rotor wear and dust. The A1RM's are a semi-track pad. I lived with these on the street without any dramas, but you will really notice a difference when you start to get some serious heat through them which is where they really shine. Rated at over 750 degrees and a friction co-efficient that jumps very high under heat they work extremely well when you're giving the car some stick and will do well on the track (Dependent on the rest of your brake setup). A1RM's aren't that dusty either, but do have some slight squeak when cold and have slightly increased rotor wear being a performance pad, however you should still get more than 2.5 years out of your pads if not taking it to the track all the time (in which case your rotors won't last regardless of what pads you run)
  3. I've found them very well balanced. PM sent shortly.
  4. I'm about to change my brake upgrade for a 2nd time this weekend which means I will have my semi-track capable brake setup for sale shortly - it's only been on the car for about 2 months. It includes new rebuilt twin piston calipers, larger rotors and QFM A1 pads. It pulls you up VERY nicely.
  5. Stumbled across these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REAL-3D-GLOSSY-CARBON-FIBER-STYLISH-WING-MIRROR-COVER-06-AURION-CAMRY-XV40-TRD-/150657000036?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313db6264 Could be a nice mod if it suits your taste
  6. Another small update with some info I've come across. Re: Brake Pads I mentioned earlier that you can get some QFM A1RM pads for these but will cost you about $179 plus 4-5 weeks wait as they're a custom job. Looking at what else was available the only other decent pad is the RDA Extreme pad suggested by Greg from GSL. These are only rated to 500 degrees, but as a bonus are very quiet and low dust. They're at the top end for a street pad without going into semi-track territory. They're also cheap at less than $80 a pair delivered. It will be interesting to compare these to my current setup, which runs RDA rotors and A1RM pads. The new set up (going on this weekend ) will consist of slotted factory rotors and RDA extremes. In many ways I believe I'll probably come across even as the A1 pads do an extremely good job under pressure. Someone just needs to be the first to get A1s on the Kluger brakes so everyone can benefit
  7. Indeed, in future please apply the Patrick Stewart or Morgan Freeman test to your posts. Sean Connery also applies. This means if you can't imagine them saying it as it's written, then apply more grammar.
  8. That FT86 pisses me off. Not because of how it looks, but how I know they're going to ruin the look when the dumb it down for the public sector. Seriously Toyota, WHY YOU DO DIS?
  9. it can very easily come down to improper bedding in. When the pads are heated up, they grab onto the rotor more and a small amount of pad material is left behind. This is why when you change to a performance pad sometimes the manufacturer of the pad will recommend you get the rotor machined first so the new pads can grip on the rotor properly. If when bedding in you bring the car to a complete stop with the brakes on, you risk leaving a higher deposit of pad material in one spot. This may only be in the degree of microns, but can easily be felt under the pedal as sometimes sever pulsing which may falsely lead you into assuming the rotor itself is at fault. I found this with my RDA slotted rotors, and the pulsing when the rotors got hot was very severe. Fortunately I happened across this information and was able to remove the deposits (whilst they were fresh) using emery paper. If the deposits are left they will eventually harden and possibly expand, so that the effect becomes more noticeable even when not pushing the car hard. Rotors actually warping is in reality a very rare event, especially if the rotor is at its max thickness. Further, the ONLY rotor type considered inferior and unreliable are cross-drilled rotors. There are a select few out there that are actual built well and won't crack, but as a general rule they are the only design type that will give you issues. Regular slotted is fine.
  10. Agreed with DJKOR, the TRD brakes are a fanastic bit of gear but they won't compare to most "performance" brakes out there. They're well suited for street work and you're unlikely to hit their limits on the road, but take it to a track and you'll be wishing for better stoppers eventually. As a note of interest, my current gen3 brakes are also very capable and I find I have to push them very hard to get them to fade - far more than needed with the standard brakes. I also used DBA4000 slotted rotors with QFM pads in the stock arrangement for a bit and can say the gen3 outperforms them too (with regular RDA slotted rotors). I expect the Kluger brakes to go even further. Based on my experience, I think the scale is something like: STOCK ---> DBA4000s + pads ---> 320mm rotors + Gen3 calipers ---> 329mm rotors + Kluger calipers ---> TRD
  11. There is still a fair bit of clearance for the rotors so I doubt cooling would be an issue, they'll still far out perform the factory brakes. And true, this upgrade isn't as good as the TRD which was designed for performance but like you said it will come very close and at about half the outlay (unless you want to buy everything new from Toyota, in which case the TRD is the better option)
  12. I just sat the rotor/caliper assembly inside a standard Sportivo rim and lined up the stud holes in the rotor with the wheels, which gives a pretty good idea of how they'll fit inside if on the car. It's hard to make out in the picture, but there is between 5-10mm of clearance between the caliper and the inner wall of the wheel. No concerns with front facing clearance as these calipers are very similar to the standard calipers in that aspect. So there you go, it'll even fit without aftermarket wheels (sorry to you stock ATX boys and girls though) Granted right now the caliper isn't bolted in place and will probably sit out a tad further once on the car, there is enough clearance that I doubt there would be any problems fitting sportivo 17"s over these brakes.
  13. They MIGHT fit. The TRD's fit under the stock 17s and these are only about 2.5mm wider. I want to do a dummy fit this weekend so I'll throw on a sportivo rim then and see if it clears.
  14. Right, excellent news. I now have in my possession a pair of 2007+ Toyota Kluger front disc rotors and twin piston calipers, and can confirm they are a direct bolt on to the Aurion (and therefore most earlier model Camrys too)! Also I'm now aware only the single piston 2006-2007 model Kluger carried 320mm wide rotors. The 2007+ twin piston Kluger carries a whopping 329mm rotors! These things are huge - even larger than the TRD brakes which are 325mm, although it must be noted the TRD are 32mm thick compared to the Kluger's 28mm. The DBA part number for the new Kluger rotors are 2734, however aren't yet listed on the website. Further they are currently only available in the standard replacement versions. Slotted/4000s etc are coming soon as this rotor as a part from DBA is only 6 months old. I haven't heard back from RDA yet regarding their offerings. DBA standard option are $109 each from GSL. Everything else about the rotor is exactly the same as the Aurion, being height, center bore, PCD etc. Further the caliper shares the same mounting locations and the same brake line banjo bolt connection. I have been in contact with GSL who told me no QFM pads are currently available, but can be made up in the A1RM series for $179 a pair. I'll be going ahead with this upgrade in the coming weeks and getting the factory rotors cleaned up and professionally slotted as they're in very good nick. These calipers can be found at wreckers for around $110 each, and due to only being a few years old are generally in very good condition and don't require a rebuild. Mine even had brake pads that look to be in excellent condition and usable. If you were to go new for all parts except for the calipers, the price break down would be as belong to upgrade your Aurion or Camry Calipers - $220 Rotors - $218 Brake pads - $60 up to $179 for semi-track pads Total - $617 for a brake upgrade that's completely bolt on! I'll also do a comparison to my current set up which consists of gen3 twin piston calipers and 320mm rotors, which offers a great upgrade over stock but costs more than the Kluger upgrade due to needing custom made brackets and caliper reconditioning (mandatory as such calipers are over 15 years old now).
  15. I also wanted to photoshop a gloss black roof but as I stated I'm not that good with photoshop. Opinions of the roof? I'm already going for the black/gold combo with the rest of the car, and I'm thinking Audi style of a gloss black roof with the sunroof.
  16. guys if I can't secure at least 6 people/cars as coming (not including myself) then I'll call it off. Deadline will be the 8th of October for the decision whether the cruise goes ahead or not
  17. YES. Basically it will require only a tiny bit of welding, and the minimal amount of bog plus painting. Car needs to go into the shop for some minor touch ups soon anyway so this little bit won't cost much extra, plus it will make the front that much smoother. Also planning on removing door strips and patch welding in the holes they leave, but that's more work and also more difficult so unsure if I'll go ahead with that.
  18. <_< Take a close look where the guards and A pillar meet
  19. Is it really that hard guys? I know it's only a small mod but I'm not that good at photoshop :(
  20. Look closely at the front guard
  21. It's definitely exterior. Loving the reactions, as it's intended to be one of those very subtle mods that you can't quite pick unless told. More hint - it would actually involve a bit of work, but wouldn't cost that much really considering I can do the work myself (except the painting, BIG hint there)
  22. It's hard to say whether a piggy back would be worth it. I spoke to chiptorque the other day who mentioned they heard of a TRD down in Melbourne that had installed such an ecu and the gains were minimal. Even with a few mods such as exhaust and intake (the only 2 mods we can really do anyhow) I think the Aurion is already in a pretty high state of tune
  23. nope, but as a hint... it's subtle, and no one else has done it before (at least to my knowledge)
  24. Next project, the beginning of taking things to the next level - see if you can pick it from the photoshop below.
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