Steven

Typical Toyota ripping people off. Shouldn't be any more than $100 supplied and fitted

!!!SEY

As said, even if you're putting out twice as much power as stock, the RPM for a given speed will be exactly the same. The factory fuel remap of 212kw though is interesting as there has not been a single case heard of where someone has been able to remap the factory fuel maps in the Aurion ECU. If you could provide more information as how this was done I think everyone would like to know.

With no increase in premiums? depends on the mods. I was surprised when I told them of my brake upgrade they actually lowered my premiums

LOL -> locked up in dark rooms. I recently boarded/taped up every window in my room to make sure it's as close to being completely dark during the day, I wonder if I should be worried? (I'm a shift worker)

I can't comment for BNO but if I was to add something, it would have to be that having a side firing sub setup would more likely give you a higher dB. I had experimented with various configurations and found that layout to yield better results when seeking volume. +1 I have had many subwoofer installations over the years and side firing appears the best compromise for overall experience. Further those people who argue that opposing side firing woofers would cancel each other out need to do more research on wave theory. Unless the subs were in opposite polarity they'd be fine

Pretty standard exhaust harmonics on the Aurion - my exhaust works similar in that with only a slight bit of throttle it's very quiet, but any load and it gets loud but suddenly the noise starts dropping off after 2.5-3k. I'm running 2x high flow mufflers and no resonator.

haha ! Hands down to you steven ;) ! you've beaten my list (for now) *starts looking for old hard drive* That was just 90% of what's on my current hard drive. I have watched a lot more over the years and either backed them on on dvd or just deleted them. I've even got some of the more old school stuff like Ranma, Tenchi Muyo, You're under Arrest, Evangelion (loving the new remake movies btw) etc

Like to watch it 'on occasion'. Forgive me if I'm a bit brief with the full titles (those in the know will get it anyway) Currently watching: Shinryaku! Ika Musume II The Index and Railgun series Fate Zero Last Exile: Fam the Silver wing Working!! Fate Stay Night-Unlimited Blade works What I have watched: Ah! My Goddess (all versions, remakes etc) Amagami Angel Beats Bubblegum Crisis Tokyo 2040 Clannad Code Geass Cowboy Bebop Coyote Ragtime Cromartie High School Darker than Black Denpa Onna Dragon Ball KAI Ergo Proxy Eve No Jikan Full Metal Alchemist (original + brotherhood) Full Metal Panic Ghost in the Shell - Stand Alone Complex (plus original + movies) Golden Boy Gosick Gunsmith Cats Hanamaru Kindergarten I My Me Strawberry Eggs Ichigo Mashirmaro Isekai no Seikishi Monogatari Kanon Katanagatari Kimi Ni Todoke Koe De Oshigoto K-On Lucky Star Mai Hime + Otome + Zwei Maria Holic Nadia Ore No Imouto Panty and Stocking Petite Princess Yucie Photon Read or Die OVA + TV Rozen Maiden Samurai 7 Scrapped Princess Seirei No Moribito Shangri-La Slayers Sora No Otoshimono Spice and Wolf Tengen Toppa Gurren Lagann The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya Tora Dora Trigun Utawarerumono Hellsing ..... Actually I'd better stop there before the list gets too long

Got to watch those slippery curbs

mines been gone for quite a while now

$55 a rotor seems a lot considering the difference between Blank and Slotted RDAs is around $60-80 If you already have the blanks then at least it gives you the opportunity to change it if that's what you desire without needing to buy all new rotors. I got my factory rotors slotted as they were still in excellent condition and didn't see the point in scrapping them.

first of all, welcome to the forum If you use the search function you may find tips and hints regarding what you intend to do, however as with most repairs what you will need to do is dependent on the damage and basic mechanical knowledge will be of more use to you rather than the mod-specific knowledge normally found here on the forums. Repairing a car that has crash damage can be a rather complex job, and by the sounds of it you don't sound very confident in your ability to do so. I'm all for people learning new skills but in this case you should obtain a repair manual for your car (try Supercheap, Repco or other large automotive spare parts suppliers) as this will give you step by step information regarding removing panels etc. Google and youtube is your best source of information for most everything else. I'm not trying to fob you off but rather trying to point you in the right direction to get the most out of your repairs. Forums are an excellent place to trade information and socialize but people do expect you to do at least some research online before asking 20 questions in a thread. A hint I can give you is to go to a panel shop and get a written quote on getting the car repaired. Even if you can't afford it, it will at least have an experts opinion on what needs replacing so that can steer your research online. Best of luck

You can always get your blanks slotted by a shop. BHSS here in Brisbane do it for about $55 a rotor

What can go wrong, personal experience. Niteshades contains acetone, to soften the plastic and assist with adhesion. On some vehicles the particular type of plastic used in the lenses may be more vulnerable to damage by the acetone as was the case with my clear Aurion taillights, which almost instantly cracked upon the spray being applied. Before someone pipes in and says I did it too heavily (like the suppliers accused) I further video taped myself applying the spray only to have it also crack right away. This way done as proof to the supplier who then admitted that it was a known issue and offered to reimburse me for the lights. Only "proper" way (although it's still illegal) is to get a paint shop to apply a tinted clear coat over the lights. This is both durable and more uniform in appearance.

decision by 7:15pm?

me thinks Hoppys Not that any of you ingrates give a damn what I think

Drove to the other side of town today and pulled a drivers side caliper/rotor off an old Mitsubishi 380 ex-taxi, got em home and started experimenting. Some really interesting stuff. First of all, the 380 uses the exact same Banjo bolt/brake line setup as the Aurion - which is natural because the caliper is a PBR caliper that is almost an exact match for the Aurion version. They're so similar they even bolt up to the others caliper bracket. The only real difference is that the 380's caliper bracket is for a much thicker disc... and unfortunately has a bolt spacing of 140mm where the Aurion one is 100mm <_< Also despite being listed differently on the Bendix website, the pads are also virtually identical. Some very slight differences but I have no doubt they'd be interchangeable in a pinch. Now the fun part. To fit these you will need a very simple 8mm steel bracket, and cut the splash guard. I actually removed the splash guard so I could design the bracket, and have already got a prototype made out of MDF ready to be replicated in a CAD program this weekend. When test fitted on my Aurion everything lines up perfectly, as the pictures below will show. In a nutshell, as the caliper is almost identical, the only "extra" braking you are getting is from the additional leverage of a bigger disc - this will offset the bigger front brakes very well. Also going from a 10mm solid disc to an 18mm vented will offer a substantial increase in cooling as well. The main problem in the rear upgrade is the cost. As the 380 are a few years old now I couldn't find any that had a decent condition rotor (as the pictures will show), which means a new set would need to be sourced. RDA want about $300 for a pair of slotted ones, which is about par for rear slotted brakes. Further you will need a hub spacer machined up to keep things safe. I've seen this done for about $30 a pair on Andrew357's Camry when he did his TRD brake upgrade. The calipers were cheap, only $45 each from the wrecker and in good enough nick that with a cleanup they'll be fine. I've previously had brackets cut at $120 a pair for my previous front brake upgrade, however that's the minimum charge. In this case, it's $120 for a pair or $120 for 2 pairs. Might even get 3 pairs for the same price, so I'll be looking for something to do this upgrade with me in the near future to share the cost. If interested pipe up. Rough pricing Rotors - $300 (RDA slotted) Calipers - $90 Hub Rings - $30 Pads - $? haven't priced yet Brackets - $120 (or $60, or $40 etc) Total - $430 to $570ish This is definitely on my to-do list but will take a small bit of time due to stuff I have going on. Will post more in the next few days

Let's not forget the laws of conservation of mass/energy here. Electric cars only real limitation are range and recharge times, both of which are set by the current level of technology of batteries. If you do a bit of research though you would see there are some really interesting batteries being researched at the moment which promises to revolutionize these factors significantly. For example there are different types of Lithium batteries which will last longer, but the most promising in my opinion are capacitive batteries. Imagine a solid state battery, with no chemicals, that charges almost instantly and can hold an immense capacity which will never decrease with age. The lack of chemicals also means super lightweight as well. The real limitations are Governments and Oil companies who don't want to lose the income boon that is petroleum offers. If you see oil companies buying up big into power plants that's when you know electric cars are on the way. The most likely future involves Hydrogen fuels, as the current infrastructure of petrol stations and logistics of transport and tanker companies can adapt to this technology without too much hassle. Refineries would likely need a ground up rebuild to obtain Hydrogen from water but being purpose built they are doomed regardless. If anything Hydrogen offers greater profits for fuel companies as the raw material (water) is in abundance, won't ever run out (as it all returns to water vapor in the end anyway), won't ***** the greens and is far simpler to process. It's just for the time being we haven't reached the stage where people have given up on petrol due to price, so it remains a greater market to continue selling fuel. The change will be slow, maybe along the lines of a major car company starting to release limited hydrogen cars but also building hydrogen refilling stations. It would likely be a partnership will petroleum companies who would use it as a PR exercise to demonstrate greater environmental awareness whilst keeping their hold on the "fuel" industry at the same time. None of this bothers me in the slightest, as Hydrogen cars can also be "supercharged" etc just in a variety of different methods.

They used petrol to get to the moon though...

I was joking. You were asking how it sounds which is not something that words are going to explain. It's like me asking you how Morgan Freeman sounds if I have never heard his voice before. Don't worry mate, I laughed... in a manically unsound way.

I'll be out, tired and grumpy as per usual

At this stage mostly availability. 380s are a dime a dozen at wreckers and their parts are cheap, which is keeping in which my goal of a cheap upgrade. The Nissan are similar, but I'm not sure of the inner Hat size so I can't comment on suitability. As for the caliper, the question is the same as with the Mitsubishi, but Mitsubishi are PBR items so I have a fairly good idea of what brake line attachment they use plus the quality of the caliper itself. Also apart from being slightly larger, the Nissan's are thinner than the Mitsubishi so it probably works out the same. My opinion? If you have a theory, test it out. On paper I'm sure many brakes could fit but this is the best lead I've had to date

In the spirit of not being able to leave things bloody well alone, I'm now researching options to upgrade the rear brakes. I had considered going back to the Kluger but these are a solid 10mm disc and I really want something vented to make the update worthwhile. I'm currently examining the Mitsubishi 380 rear brakes. The rear rotor on these is a decent 302mm x 18mm vented, compared to the Aurion standard rear which is 286mm x 10mm. This small size increase would well compliment the Kluger front brakes and would cool substantially better as well. Furthermore I've found the inside internal diameter of the 380 brakes are 190mm with a max of 191mm. This is VERY close to the Aurion rear internal hat diameter which I also believe is 190mm but I can't be sure until I get them off the car later this week. The 380 disc is also 5 x 114.3 stud pattern, but would require a hub ring (same as the TRD front brakes did previously) to bring it down from 69mm to the Aurion's 62mm. The height is slightly different but shouldn't be a huge issue as the next big question is calipers! Whilst I would be greatly surprised if these were also a direct bolt on, I can't be sure until I inspect one which I am planning to do later this week. It is more likely the case that a simple bracket might be required. Further the banjo bolt arrangement might be different again. Naturally the idea is to keep things cheap so custom brake lines and adaptor brackets aren't ideal, especially with the cost of the front brakes being so low. Unless reality intervenes I plan on having a final answer to this by this Friday or Saturday

Sticking to extreme assumptions is what will cost you any "race" Spend the time to learn your own car best and get the most out of it - no one on here can give you a black and white answer regarding that. Even those on here who I rate as very good drivers need to go for a drive and relearn how their car performs when they get new tyres, or a new intake etc.