CHA54

that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K

More than 10 years and 100,000km boosted on the original unopened engine, still going strong, making more power now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyUDaGo0EU4

can't leak oil from the waterpump. It could be leaking from a number of places in that area, usually from the cam cover seal, but could also be from the vvt solenoid o-ring or the front timing cover to block interface (which is sealed with form-in-place-gasket/gasket goo)

use the kick panel grommets.

you will get a performance gain, good for the gain and sound. 70mm diameter seems to work best on the 1zz's, with CAI and 2.25" exhaust you can expect up to 90kw atw. Standard 1zz will do something in the 70's

That's one of the worse service histories I've ever seen where they haven't actually thrown away the log book to try and hide the history... I'm very confident the valve stem seals require replacing and I'll bet the combustion chambers could do with a good de-coking also. The PCV would have been gunked up previously making the valve stem seals leak more, so replacing/cleaning the PCV would have made it a little better as it reduces the crankcase pressure on the stem seals. If you want to re-create the smoke on the road, flick it into manual shift mode so it will hold the gear you're in, find a long downhill section and engine brake all the way down the hill. At the bottom of the hill accelerate away and you will see a large plume of smoke out the rear. Will be a very expensive repair bill for the car yard to cover, there's a ton of labour involved to replace all 24 seals as the valvetrain basically needs to be removed to access them (if the dealer is confident to change them with the heads on the motor)

it should fit with some trimming/bending of the sheet metal where the bend is that puts the pod in the guard in the facelift. There's less space there compared to a non-facelift.

I wish you the best but in my experience, with an engine smoking that bad an engine flush and oil change will do nothing to resolve the source of the problem (Valve Stem Seals or ring problem)

valve stem seals is my bet. Get it compression tested to ensure it's not a ring/piston issue and check the valvetrain isn't sludged up under the cam which would indicate poor service history

welding is required for a neat intake. 2x 90degree bends and a bit of straight will give plenty of material to fabricate one

less time and effort to buy one is about the only benefit if you can fabricate well and get the MAF flange right. Custom made will get you the shortest length and best route with optimal diameter

might scrape in for $10K, depends on how much labour you do yourself. MWR has a good selection of parts, I'd do rods and pistons as a minimum: http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/index.php?cPath=318&sort=2a&page=3 If you're building the motor you might aswell ditch the supercharger and go turbo instead, easy extra 100kw

CES is overpriced for what it is, I make my own. The TRD is a good intake, people that have problems with it need to clean their MAF.