ben yip

If you can put headers, thats good.. Aftermarket Headers, not only it is bigger, but it will create a vacuum effect to suck air from the engine. Each cyclinder got a different timing of firing. so the header length is designed based on the cyclinder firing order...Header cannot be custom made easily, have to be off the shelf Mine exhaust is too expensive, not recommend to you.. it is http://www.hitechmufflers.com.au/

2 is good enough No brand to recommend, as long as it is using 304 steel, and the welding job is good.. Mine is custom made

My Bendix 4WD finished within 1.5 track days, that was quite shocking. A friend of mine using Bendix Ultimate in his SR20 NX Couple also finished within 1.5 track days. My old QFM A1RM last for 6 track days...the only drawback is it is chewing motors and $$ for the pad but Bendix stuff is low dust, that is for sure.. For Remsa, I am happy with the performance so far.. It is not noisy at all... I don't mind about dust, because it is a performance pad..if it is not dusty, that means it is not performing...I have to see how many track days can it last for. Remsa comes with noise reduction features where it cannot be found in QFM HPX or A1RM Comparing to QFM regarding performance, I need some data, GSL said Remsa sat between HPX and A1RM. HPX and Bendix Ultimate have a maximum temperature of 550C, this one can go to 650C.. I guess the brake coefficient is around the same as HPX, which is 0.42 to 0.44. I have done a lot of reasearch about brake pad recently.. All performance brake pad kills rotor, more noisy and more dusty, but they last longer because they have more metallic content, which means it is harder.. This article is quite good if you want to know more about brake pad..It clears many misconeption such as People think wrapped rotors are caused by the rotor, in fact it is caused by overheat brake pad.. People think larger rotor will stop shorter, look at the following link in the table, it is just little bit shorter. Going from 295mm to 355mm only have you 7 feet advantage when stopping from 100mph to 0.. Dun forget you also got heavier brake now which will slow you down http://www.zeckhausen.com/Testing_Brakes.htm#Summary (Please note that they are measured in MPH) http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml

I guess because they do this to make the car less jerky when upshifting.. They try to make the rev match during upshift... How do I know? because I sometimes change gear very slowly and notice the car jerking when the rev drops too fast.. I am having fun with heel and toe recently, so I find out how this rev match business work...hehe

http://stores.ebay.c...&_sid=169618416 If you want installation menu, in google.com, type PART NUMBER filetype:pdf The following is an example of foglight menu in Auris, not $$, only $200, but installation is not easy. http://www.toyota-te...%20001925-0.pdf plus all the other examples of installation menu Spoiler http://www.toyota-te...000%20794-3.pdf front skirt http://www.toyota-te...001%20859-0.pdf Rear mud flap http://www.toyota-te...000%20724-1.pdf Side Skirt http://www.toyota-tech.eu/legacy/Toy/aimuploads/%7BA9B2475B-8A77-A0CB-0292-2DA94A308A77%7D/SideSkirt%20PZ439-E9481-AB%20AIM%20000%20793-2.pdf

You cannot see from outside, they are now the lowest part of my car apart from the mud flaps, they will decrease 20mm from your car. They are non-adjustable.. My car is now 60mm above the ground.. it is just 1 cm more than the width of your credit card, so not high. Most sydney speed hump is less than 50mm... so I am just marginally higher than the speed hump.. In fact, most scrape is coming from the mud flap !! For some hump not sure, I just get off the car to measure the height of the hump I have not scraped so far I am still not sure whether it is useful at all. Some say yes, some say no..

I am using paint protection (permanent) now, and you still need to clay. I still wax on top of it, it won't get rid of the sealent, and wax will make it even more shiny !!

audio inside a track car? that is luxury You are only 16 years old, have you driven that BMW on the track? do you have your build thread for your e30 which m20 are you converting, 2.0, 2.3 2.5 or 2.7 What is your (or your dad) PB so far for that car in Wakefield Park I know a guy using E30 M20 2.5, doing 1:13, I lost most the time to him due to his RWD layout when he exists the corner

Thanks, This is my first try at Remsa If they are dusty, that probably means it won't last long as well.. I guess they only last for <30000 km... I am using Bendix 4WD fronts now, they are ok, and very few dust.... but fade too quickly on the track although not much !! Please post your pictures !!

Have changed to use Nulon 0W-40 for engine oil, price is $90. After changing it, engine is SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. Few youtube has already shown an increase of little horsepower of this oil. Worth the money given the low noise now (I am not a fan of exhaust noise, although my car has modified exhaust) and my gearbox oil, due to my heavy track duties, I need a better transmission oil. Funny thing is searching through the user manaul, it never asks you to change tranny oil, done a bit of research, it is better to do it every 50000 km, just for a peace of mind Have ordered brake pad from queensland GSL rally sport, due to my A1RM all gone within 15000km The brand is called Remsa, it is a very famous brand for eurpoean cars, and it sitis above QFM HPX and below QFM A1RM. Another member (Adamasy) in Toyota Aurion is already using this brand, Flipster is also using this in his corolla as well http://www.inter-tea...a.php?p=news_a4 Have ordered RDA slotted for design pad. There is still plenty of rotor left in my car, but need to machine, so why not change to a new rotor then

I should take a video camera and put it in youtube and send to police or Current Affairs If you wanna show off the speed, do it in dragway or a race circuit, not on the street, cannot tolerate all the hoons out there

Brand: Pedders Equipped to(model): corolla zre price: $1700 + 300 installation & alignment customer service: depends which shop you are installing installation: need to buy extension cord for rear damper adjustment, quite convenient cornering/handling: coupled with rear sway bar, it is excellent,check my signature for track usage ride/stiffness: very comfortable and soft at softest setting. Starting from 20 to 30, it is undrivable on the street, too much wheelspins in little bump on the street, stomach also getting upset. On the track, they perform excellent when setting to hardest (30). The spring rate is only 4kg all round pro's: comfortable on the street, hard on the track, australia made with warranty cons: limited height adjusted, need to change spring rates to lower more for front. The kit does not have any camber adjustment. other obvseration: high cost general lifespan: unknown

do not use r888 on street, highly not recommend. I use it to and from the track, the other times I am using my other set of tyres They will stick the sand and stones on the road, and create chips in your body, also they are very bumby and noisy try ku36 if you looking for performance and price

do not use r888 on street, highly not recommend. I use it to and from the track They will stick the sand and stones and create chips in your body, also they are very bumby and noisy try ku36 if you looking for performance and price

1. m.C 2. ooh it's still warm...juvenile 3. VF-X 4. ZR6XY 5. Brendan 6. Seby123 7. cruzer (maybe) 8. Synthetic05 (maybe) 9. Defyant 10. u54mot (Maybe)?? ../../../public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.png 11. Xoom 12. Armstrong (Maybe) 13. Ben Yip (80% chance, not may be)

took so long!! 14x5.5, is that too small for u?

In South Sydney La Perouse, police picking up defects For people with muffler that got a switch to turn it loud, they call it sneaky in the the 4:40 There was a Golf with stock wheels, but the door handles at the back are missing, not sure why he get towed I really hope they dun pick me up

20x M12x1.5 Any condition, it is for my aftermarket wheels, just use for track duties. As long as it is durable. MUST BE Stainless Steel

how much did you pay to fix the front lip?

omg

get addictied to the bar? what tyres and wheels are you thinking of changing?

Just went to Track school (http://www.trackscho...om.au/about.htm) with John Boston and Dave Sieders in Wakefield Park. They are professional drivers in the racing industry, I am sure you guy know who John Boston is. Have asked John and Dave drive my car for few sessions to give me professional coaching Many Thanks John Boston and Dave Sieders for their professional coaching today. They both can push your car to madness. I highly recommend trackschool to anyone looking for beginner to professional techniques Plenty of lap times due to not many people. At the end of the day, I can drive the track for 40 minutes without stop until my fuel light was on For me, John Boston has taught me how to use trial braking (brake while turning). No wonder people call John a late braker. Mastering this technique is not easy at all on semis, especially on turn 2, and the fish hook. Too much and you will end up drifting, not enough and you will lost exit speed. At the fish hook, things become tricky for FF cars as you cannot put power untill you exit the corner. The brake must flip the rear of the car so that the car can accelerate straight away in the fishhook The theory is braking will move the weight to the front, and the front got more traction to turn in, The earlier you get on the throttle, the more straight line speed you carry, especially for my low powered car I have asked John about turn 3 and 4, should I brake or not, he said yes, because you can accelerate earlier. Although you loss a bit of speed during turn in, but the exit speed will carry out to the main straight, which can recover the loss in time during brake turn in. At the end of the day, I have used this technique and my PB is 1.15.1, 0.7 faster than my previous PB, but my consistency of mastering this technique is a big concern. Especially at the same time, I am fighting with brake fading. My other lap times is around 1:15.8 to 1:16.1 mark Unfortunately, half of my video is gone (cry), including the one that Dave drove my car. Do want to see what time they get out of my car 20mm rear sway bar is a good choice in order for me to flip the back of the car (front is 25mm factory) This is my PB of the day, the video cannot capture the rear end "flipping", but please put your imgaination into the "flipping" action. I personally think I really push this lap into hell. Now I need to think of how to put this technique in Winton Mistakes in my following PB after anaylsing John driving a K24 civic (Since I lost the video of one instructor (Dave) driving my car) 1. My brake turn in is still not good enough in turn 2, note how John put on the throttle so early, hit the right kerb and swing the back of the car back to the straight 2. Fish hook, pay attention to the plastic cone that John put on the track, I turn in left slightly too early, resulted from later throttle. I should turn in left exactly at the plastic cone position (just after the right footpath). If you have a look for how John turns it that corner, He turned in slightly later, get on the throttle right on the left kerb. The speed will carry on to the last corner, so this corner is highly important. Doing this right can gain few tenths. When he sat next to me, he told me I am braking and turn in too early. Now I know why. When Dave (one instructor drove my car), he told me my car got left wheelspin in that corner in 3rd gear. If I dun have wheelspin, I am not pushing hard enough http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ePleNQIWto I am still learning how to do heel and toe, not easy to do it very smoothly, will need to focus on this area. My biggest problem is too much throttle turning from 3 to 2 in turn 10, because my 2 is located at the bottom left, and my third is at the top middle position. More time is required to change from 3 to 2, at the same time, I need to ease off the brake a bit (not fully ease off) and turn in.. turning, braking, shifting, heel and toeing all at the same exact time... quite difficult AND 2 days ago before this track day My brake pad was completely gone during practice in Wakefield Park 2 days before trackschool track day, Supercheap and Repcro have no stock about my car brake pad. Lucky I got it from another auto store. Brand is Bendix. Model is 4WD. Suprsingly, they are quite fade resistent. Although it is still suffered from fading, but not as much as I expect. This brake pad is designed for 4WD cars such as RAV4, so should be an easy job for this brake pad on my car because RAV4 is around 2 times heavier than my car. The result is quite well as you can see from the video. The braking distance is slighly longer than my A1RM brake pads, but that is accpetable the A1RM brake pads give me suprise as I would expect it kill the rotors first, but the rotor has still a long way to go, and the brake pads are completely gone.. Lucky it is a corolla, or I will have problems in going home

take off all your seats. For a race track (non drag strip), I lost half a second per lap if fitted with seats, so expecting a big difference in times with weight on I cannot go with you now, because I am fitted with heavy wheels now with the street tyres... Semi slick loss too much in the straight

I bet you are from Japan looking at your name. I guess 5000 is your budget. Corolla manual would be good