ben yip

remarkable... Detailing does get you addicted... John taught me before to use clay and it does make a big difference !! and your "dark red" colour make the reflection more standout than my "less dark red" Your car make your mum's car look older !!!

too much power from the rear !!

I dun agree with you that you can gain 20-25kw XEDE is a piggy back system, same as my unichip..I have checked XEDE, they got similar functionality with Unichip.. For your car, you will gained around 6 to 10 kw at the wheels for a piggy back, and that assumes you have done all other mods, otherwise, you can only gain 2kw. That 2kw is coming from upgrading from 91 to 98 petrol Check the statistics here, check the graph with non-turbo, and have similar engine to your car,you can have a rough idea how much you gained http://www.airpowersystems.com/unichip/applications.html $1850 a a decent buy, mine done for $1400 Getting the car tuned will improve drivability, and smooth out the power curve, and if you have installed CAI, it will makes the AF ratio run richer to handle the extra air Unless you got the replacement chip, you won't get 25 to 30kw

Pay attention to the LED in the front skirt !!! I want that

does not look new, second hand? how much? You will be faster than me very soon.. that is guranteed

Audi R8?

omg, swap of wheels !!

Is it Falken Azenis semis? Why you lost control in the S in the last session? That S corner is really ****ty, no idea why they put the hut there... do you think your AE92 handles better on this track, because it has less weight, (but also less power).. I can see in the video that you are still learning the car, and the power oversteering from RWD gave you some headache I guess, because I saw you trying to save a few times According to this http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?20/11/2011.WIN.S1 there was a Levin and Ae86 after you, are they on semis? and the Suzuki Ignis going 1:48, WTF?

like it !!

john, the BBS looks more sexy !!! and they give me an exordinary feel, and BBS is a symbol for your car

thinking of buying simpson car accessories and put them in my car

Is it really on 4th gear, the speed on the graph does not match 4th gear..my 4th gear is 165km/h at max.. How much do you think you have gained after your mods?

Also, there is another factor called EBD, more brake will be applied on the wheel with more load, this also applies to sideway load. According to Toyota, (http://www.toyota.com.au/glossary) The latest Toyota EBD can adjust the fore/aft brake balance according to vehicle load and the right/left brake balance if the brakes are applied during cornering. EBD is a new recent technology, cars fitted with ABS does not mean it is fit with EBD Disabling ABS is not good considering how poor I use the brakes. There is only one situation where ABS is useless-snow or gravel, but who will drive fast in the snow, LOL!!! After the last track day, I start to appreciate today's braking technology more and more

Also check http://www.carmag.co.za/article/toyota-auris-trd-driven-2011-11-16

I hope you strip out your car next time, and I gurantee that you can catch me..! Your exhaust is melting your lip. The same goes for mine, I have lower my exahust a bit after I found out it is melting, I need to cut the lip a bit That sp23 can be lethal to us depends on drivers.. When is your next wakefield? I am bit envy of you that you have have 20 cars only in the track and no traffic !!! Mine is 2 weeks later and hope for some 1:15.9 after camber and ECU changes

so I come almost at last on the grid. Yes, for example, now I know how to do emergency braking in the wet... 50% of braking will give maximum braking distance To apply on the street in wet 1. I understand the importance of not following the car so close in the wet, you should increase the previous car distance by 100% for safety (according to the data, you lost 50% of friction in the car without ABS, and 30% of friction in the car with ABS).. There are way too many accidents on the wet on the street due to following the car too close. Sydney drivers follow car really close and really impatient 2. I understand the importance of VSC, it is designed for you to steer away from the danger in front of you 3. I understand the tyre in the wet lost grip much more faster than in the dry, due to a very narrow envelop of traction I am hoping for some open area for me to test the car in the wet to understand more the tyre characteristics on the wet..

Went to Eastern creek last night at rain. Scary, but important experience. I almost come at the last of the grip. My driving skills in the wet is poor. Anyone of you can probably go faster than me First part of video is day time, last time of video is night time, you can see nothing at night. PB is 2:39 I rely on data so much to race, without enough data, I have no idea what is the speed of each corner and braking point. In all my previous races, I keep reading my speedometer for each corner and it gave me very fast PB before. With wet condition and lack of data, I decide just drive slowly In eastern creek, walls are not far away from you. It is a risk for me to find the limit of the car from scratch. Ultimate goal is to go home safe by not crashing the car There are few lessons I have to research and learn 1. ABS kicks in under <50% braking position in straight line. How to brake under wet condition? 2. Tyres slips very easily. What is the optimum slip percentage under the wet as compared to the dry (Tyre has optimum grip when the tyre slips a little bit, not too much), research shows around 20% 3. Will the car oversteer more easily in the wet. How to set up the car in the wet? Maximum speed for my car under the straight is 170km/h just before braking. In the dry, probably expect 175km/h, really not bad Here is my research so far Stop distance calculator in wet/dry ABS/no ABS Click here to calculate stop distance 100km/h to 0, in the dry with ABS=>70metres, in the wet with ABS=>87meteres Below shows the traction on the dry versus slip.. On the wet, the graph peaks faster and drop faster (Please compare the graph in the wet in chapter 17 google book below) http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/braking.htm#axzz1e2LefPYY Got important information here (chapter 17) On dry pavement, tyre optimum slip angle is 6 to 10 degrees, on wet, it is around 3 to 6, which means driving in the wet with less slipping Please pay attention to the graph in the book (graph 17.1), rain tyre reaches it maximum tracion quicker and lost quicker than a slick tyre. As a result, rain tyre gives you less warning as when to let go How to race in the wet You can tell how much traction is lost in each scenario, and work out the speed in the wet, for example, a 85km/h corner in the dry means around 65km/h in the wet on a general purpose tyre This article is excellent, it contains everything in detail, tyre pressure, tread, traction Click for Everything about tyres

Put hydroshield first to see as well, you got too much suction, so CEL lights come on, Very last resort is to get your car tuned to readjust the AF ratio, bit $$ This is Unichip shop in Melbourne APS Automotive Pty Ltd 73 Merrindale Drive, South Croydon VIC 3136 Australia. Phone +61 3 9761 7244 Fax +61 3 9761 7665

Any pictures or video will be appreciated Turn 4/5 is a high speed corner that is around 100km/h, not sure if your tyre hitting the inner guard.. You got improvement on your lap time, congratulations !! and 1:17 not bad for your set up If you want faster, turn 3/4/5 are crucial, you have to swing from the right to the left on turn 3/4, and no braking in turn 5, 90% drivers do not do this...by doing this, you got half a second gain I am assuming you got rear sway bar, otherwise 1 to 2 second slower...because you dun run coilover, so you cannot set the car to more oversteering

clean MAF http://www.celicahobby.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/227263/site_id/1#import if it is still lean, put a hydroshield there to slow down the air flow... or any method you can think of to slow down the suction, or try to put a plastic bag (with holes) to slow down the air flow !!! Disconnect your battery for 10 minutes, sounds stupid, since I think johnnie does not have CEL after returning to stock Untill you chip the car at the very end stage of modifications and $$ to chip, you cannot really touch the AF ratio

how come it happens? what need to tie up? How was your wakefield day, btw

deleted

More pictures here http://www.aussieracingcars.com.au/about/toyota-aurion.html Do you think it is making sense if I buy this car just for casual club racing? if 40K can buy this car, it is not expensive at all.. How much mainteinance work need to do per race? how about the reliability of the engine, and the gearbox? How often do you rebuild those things The reason I am asking is my next track car is not going to be a street car, but a proper race car that is not expensive to maintain. so far, go kart is in my list, Where can I buy this car? That web site said car for sale, but there is nothing.. If this car can be my daily as well, that will be great... 1.2L saves petrol, and I can race anytime

They are not accruate, I run 650km per tank where it says only 559... Only the average fuel consumption and instant fuel consumption on the dash are accruate. I am running 6.7 now, and it says 589km in full tank, which is not right according to the maths. The maximum km I can see on my dash is 593km with average fuel consumption of 6.5.. the maths simply does not add up If u want to save fuel, just accelerate slowly and enjoy being slow.. that is what I do. No need to put 98 petrol, 95 is good enough. Dun use 91 because it will cause incomplete combustion

love the work, another alternative to lotus which uses the same engine, and similar weight !!!