ben yip

have you tried to go to Corolla and ask I am sure they will sell it for you. What happens if someone in a accident that requires fog light replacement

Hmm... Look like we have the same boot.. I cannot use the license plate light because you do not want it to be on at all times. We can only use reverse light.. Have a look at your picture, connecting the cable from reverse light to license plate light is not easy, I probably use some plastic tapes to stick the cable outside. I know it is ugly, but better than drilling holes

I have a facelft hatch. Just got a GPS + reverse camera for $200 from ebay. Since the camera is mounted on the license plate and is only on when the reverse light is on. How can I wire the cable from the reverse light to the license plate This is a camera installation from another car, but this car license plate is located under the reverse light,which makes the installation easy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URtaTAw9chQ

I have ordered the unichip, one thing that annoys me is the VSC light and traction light on. reading the following http://www.caradvice.com.au/20835/toyota-australia-adds-vsc-to-corolla/ Australian corolla has special VSC calibration. Does anyone know how to do it?

Someone posted the picture of this car before, the japanese said it is supercharged, not turbo I cannot find that link here

Make sure you can CAI + catback + header before putting unichip Please search in this forum for the same question, someone did a unichip on sportivo before I do not have a sportivo, but I have ordered a unichip an waiting for delivery, and I can tell you the difference later

I can read those japs, most stuff is not for sale but it said it is using a supercharger, not turbo

I walked across Autobarn to get motor oil today, found out that Philips has very expensive halogen light globe, cost me $138 a pair of low beam. Their effect is far more better than standard halogen, I have bought Philips Crystal Vision 4300k.... It is white in color, in somewhat misunderstood as HID.. Made in Germany For reviews, please google it yourself, especially compared with HID...but I did find this video with the top model of Philips Halogen vs HID same installation procedure as ordinary halogen, I don't like HID coze too much installation procedures for me, and difficult in replacing light bulbs..good alternative for HID bulbs.. Whether u like it, up to u

6.8 - 7.1 L/100 KM for suburban driving in Sydney Traffic jam, 7.4 L/100 KM no traffic jam, 6.7 L/100 KM driving 6th gear at 50km/h, no air con, 1 person got CAI, that's why save 10% of petrol If I use Shell or Mobil, the average is 7.1 to 7.4, compared with Caltex 6.8-7.1

They are using different engine.. they use valematic, we use dual vvti, Our one is a step behind our engine is 2zr-fe, their one is 2zr-fae

Agree,2000 corolla is not fuel saving as the recent one

The malaysia, phillipines and thai corolla have turbo with unichip installed successfully http://www.speedlab.com.ph/turbokits.php I suggest you call and ask...rather than frustration or reinventing the wheel in Australia I am aware those countries are left hand drive, and they are not japanese built corolla.. that motor is most likely a 1zz... i think its time to go researching in the JAPANESE land :( They do support 2zr-fe...people there just love to modify corollas

The malaysia, phillipines and thai corolla have turbo with unichip installed successfully http://www.speedlab.com.ph/turbokits.php I suggest you call and ask...rather than frustration or reinventing the wheel in Australia I am aware those countries are left hand drive, and they are not japanese built corolla..

i dun have a ipone, but for nokia, i send the contact to the car via bluetooth...my nokia said "send business contact" Also, if you have multiple phone number in one contact, it won't work, you better send contact one by one

Hope u can do it again next time see if you can capture a video for us, when your tank is close to empty. I want to see your 4k to 6k spinning speed When my car is full tank, it lost half a second, so, my guess is for every 40kg, you lose around half a second.. When my car has another passenger, especially a male, the car is very very sluggish...

For the rev, don't be fooled by the quick spin of 4-6k, they have changed gear ratio in 2009. Please refer to this post, Can you please confirm your max speed 1st and 2nd gear http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23465 The max speed for other cars for 1st gear are normally 60, mine is 40 Also, http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29213 Q) What is the difference between ’07-’08 ZREs with ‘09 ZREs? A) Both are pre-facelift ZREs. Differences are: i) Gear ratios

After 2009/11, All hatchback corolla has a styling update, it is called zre-154.. I am sure you saw heaps on the street... May be I was wrong, I dun know

2010 Corolla 1.8 Not a good start for 0-100, but some fun, time is around 8.8-9.2. I can push harder, but find it pointless. I saw people push over the rev limit or start up with high rev to get the time down, but that's not the important part of this video My start is very bad, i dun hold the clutch good coze I have been holding my mobile as well, otherwise, 8.5 second should not be problem. I have been scared of police as well although that road can do 80 maximum Estimated output is 115kw at the crank compared to a stock car.. for 115kw and 1260kg, 8.5 is really a decent time Note, the gear ratio for 1st gear and 2nd gear are really short.. 1st gear ends at 40+, and 2nd ends at 80+ Modifications Injen CAI,Catback, WeaponR header, NST pulley 1/4 tank of fuel, spare wheel off, and I weight 63kg (starts at 20 second)Video 2

Yes, they have a rubber Hey, here is the info from NSY Pulley regarding this question, whether you believe or not up to u Please consider taking a few minutes to read through the 40 pages of customer reviews from people who have been using NST pulleys on the R18 and K20 over the past several years.... You will find no cases of engine failure as a result of NST pulleys... the COMPREHENSIVE thread on NST (NonStopTuning) Pulleys - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/sponsored-sale-classifieds/110398-comprehensive-thread-nst-nonstoptuning-pulleys.html (Please register, 40 pages, worth to read) You will also find lengthy discussion, such as what I will copy and paste for you here.... This one deserves an entire book, but here goes... Q. Will NST Pulleys lead to premature engine failure? I cover this topic at least several times a month but I don't mind, I understand that your cars are a very large investment for all of you and I prefer that you be intelligent and informed about all your modifications. So here we go again... Please take a few minutes to read everything I have posted here, as I worked hard on trying to give you a good explanation on the topic... In the past many engines were externally balanced. There was an external balancer attached to the outside of the engine, on the crank snout, used to balance the engine externally. The crank pulley in such engines would then be attached to this balancer. Removal of this balancer is a bad idea. These balancers were most often used on large (6 to V shaped engines of the domestic muscle car era. Take a look at any modern (1980s and beyond) Honda, Toyota, Nissan, or other japanese inline 4 and you will find no such balancer. These engines are all internally balanced, and this process has improved even further since the late 1990s. So the topic of a BALANCER does not apply here. What you will find on many modern engines is a harmonic damper. This is a small rubber band, litterally less than 2mm, less than 1/8th of an inch, thick that is built into the crank pulley. OEM crank pulleys are often called DAMPERS. Try placing an order for a crank pulley at your dealer and your invoice will read damper. This rubber is used to absorb something called NVH, noise/vibration/harshness. Suffice it to say, this rubber is actually not very good at performing its intended purpose after as little as a few thousand miles. What happens to rubber after a couple years of humidity, weather, snow, rain, etc? It often becomes brittle, hard, and crunchy. Can something with these properties actually absorb vibrations very well? Many many NST customers, including people on your own forums, have reported smoother running engines with NST pulleys. Especially at idle. How is this possible if the rubber is such a vital and super important piece??? Perhaps the rubber is not as important as it is cracked up to be??? Furthermore.... On the topic of the rubber damper, engine vibrations, or possible threats resulting from elimination of this rubber piece... On a relatively understressed near stock motor with bolt ons or low amounts of boost like what most of the people on this forum probably run, a solid pulley will not have any life threatening consiquences. The factory pulley with a 2mm (less than a 1/8th inch) damper is primarily there for wide band NVH (noise vibration harshness) supression from the engine and driveline. Removing the damper and replacing it with a solid pulley may lead to minor addtional NVH but will not harm the engine. In fact, most people claim their engines seem to run smoother with NST pulleys. The engineering reasons are that most modern engines have a short, strong crank with, a relatively high natural frequency. The dangerous second harmonic that can cause damage occurs at an rpm that this sort of engine will never see, in the area above 10,000 rpm. Even the stock damper is not tuned for attinuation at this sort of rpm so the argument is somewhat of a moot point. Now weak engines that are pushing the limit with LOTS of revs, wimpy cranks, super long strokes, lots of boost and dwelling in the upper rpm ranges for long periods of time can benefit from a damper designed to deal with this sort of operation but our engine is not like this, and probably very few people with this motor on this forum push the envelope that hard. How many 2.0 Liter, 500HP, 12,000RPM motors do we have on these forums? As far as I can tell, our engine has a strong and stiff bottom end that is well built for our intended use. It has an internaly balanced crankshaft which is less like to break due to torsional vibration. There are a lot of Honda, Toyota, and Nissan guys who use underdrive crank pulleys in road racing series like NASA or SCCA. Road racing is much more punishing on an engine than other motorsports. The engine is subjected to run times lasting roughly 30 minutes with the engine always in the upper ranges of its rpm limit. One race weekend is the equivlent of hundreds of 1/4 mile passes. These guys would not use NST pulleys if they were not reliable. NST sponsors the first ever wheel to wheel Scion tC NASA Road Race car. The same car is also very competitive in the Grand Am series and has factory backing from Toyota, Scion, and TRD. This car has been using pulleys from NST with great results since day one. NST has sponsored several drift cars participating in the professional US drift series, Fromula Drift. Several of our cars have also competed in the NOPI Drift series. To make things better, NST products are also used in autocross, time attack, and drag cars. These cars have been using NST pulleys with no issues of any kind for the past few seasons. We could go on and on... Is a solid crank pulley harmless to all engines? No it is not. As I said... small, super high reving engines, when modified way past the simple bolt on stages may have problems. These engines reach critcal harmonics, past the 10,000 rpm range, an rpm only reached by certain RACE engines. A mildly modded inline six will most likely be fine but one subjected to high rpm for long periods of time (90% of its life) with lots of boost will probably suffer. In this case , the stock balancer/damper is probably not adequate either. Some of the older american V8 engines are externaly balanced and it is critical not to use a solid hub pulley not designed for these applications, or damage to the engine could result. You will not find solid NST pulleys on our website for such engines. Our engines and most around here do not fall into the above catagories. Rest assured that your engines will not blow up and die or have a reduced life in street and even racing use with these parts. I would bet that every "expert" that tells you otherwise has little personal, practical, real world experience with the subject; as it applies in your case. Again, I understand that your cars are a very large investment and that you depend on them as your daily means of transportation, so I do not take your questions personally. But please remember... No NST product is designed to cause you any harm or grief. We are not in business to sell junk. PERIOD.

It is an endless debate regarding this topic, some said it does not hurt the balance, some said it does.. so really a gamble to me really. I have posted already that lots of yaris 1.8 people using it without problems, so this is a safe gamble The original factory pulley does not have bearing or moving parts, it is just a heavy iron. I doubt this big piece of iron will create balance.. Or I can do a chemical analysis of the factory pulley, might be there are some secrets in that iron !!!

This new type of pulse plug can replace the traditional spark plug to give power articles and hp increase figures as below. The power gain is comparable to a pulley in a Civic Si, (check link below) but in a lotus where it uses sportivo engine, almost no gain.. (check link below) Any comments? http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/pulstar-pulse-plugs-dyno-video-pics-56051/ http://www.importtuner.com/powerpages/impp_0809_2008_honda_civic_si_power_pages/nst_lightweight_pulley_set.html http://www.carbibles.com/productreviews_pulstar.html http://www.pulstar.com/products.htm

Nintendo Controller (it is a famous TV game console in 1990+) http://craziestgadgets.com/2008/04/23/customized-engine-block-looks-like-nintendo-controller/

get it installed today by a mechanic in less than 1 hour.. I have installed the weaponr header 2 days ago, the feeling can be felt after battery reconnection Now, with the pulley, the result is mind-blowing,3-5kw can be felt straight away in all rpm My driving style is driving at <3k RPM in most times, and only hit the red twice a day, because after work, I want to relax to go home.. It is very obvious there is performance gain and I can feel it straight away in any rpm, even below 3k rpm. For header change, I cannot feel anything below 3krpm, with pulley, I can feel the torque, espesically when I do my slow start in traffic jam, I do not have to hit the pedal hard.. it is very obvious effect, i gurantee everyone can feel it For horsepower gain, please refer to http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18780 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21742 (Look at the curve, it is gaining all over the rpm range, that boost low rpm power) http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10837 Another great thing is shifting gear is more smooth, I have one strange driving style when I am not pushing, I change gear slowly, even sometimes the guy behind me found me annoying.. Now the rpm holds more, so even I change gear slowly, the rpm can stay for a while, the car is less jerky. (because I dun know how to drive before, that's why I am jerky,I got female friends complaining about me being driving jerky, because I change gear slowly) The throttle response is very good, because the engine get less weight to rotate Above 3k RPM, OMG, mind blowing power when combining with header My fuel consumption so far is reduced from 6.9L/100km to 6.6L/100km during these two days in suburban driving. The only worry about the car so far is the relaibility of the header, header gasket and pulley, but since I dun push that hard, should not be a problem for me I have saw a cracked pulley in youtube before, but having said that, most people in Yaris 1.8 TS found the pulley is good...

My car is a zre-154, not zze, that might be why.. probably they put it in the new zre nowadays I did not disconnect the battery before, this is the first time