Hiro

I agree. My '96 runs 10mph fast at 70mph. In other words when it says 70 I am doing 60. This is crazy. It means oil changes and so on come up early. I can go up a few tyre sizes to compensate and think I have got it worked out what size to go to next to bring the discrepancy down to a reasonable level. You might find that the speedometer accuracy is different to the odometer accuracy. Here in Aus the speedo can be out +0 -10%, but odometer accuracy has to be +-4%, much stricter. I've seen mention in some places that this no longer applies after 2006 because odometers are apparently no longer legally required (or maybe because 99% of them are now digital), but it will still work for the bulk of new-ish cars on our roads (obviously can't comment on your situation since you don't live in Australia)

By cheating :P

The TRD Aurion charger is an EATON TVS, I believe the R1320 model. The TVS chargers are different from the older Roots M90/M112 etc in regards to lobe designs, unsure about pulleys/couplings.

What's wrong with pastrami, salami, rare roast beef, ham etc etc? :P

Agreed, UHP/semi-slicks always look better with a square/chunky sidewall, proper race-cars don't run stretch because who doesn't need more rubber on the ground? :P

It sometimes takes a day or two for them to respond to queries/emails.. Also, where did you select your parts to be sourced from, Japan or UAE? UAE is cheaper but has longer lead times and more chance of delay, often into the weeks.

Ahh, so you mean a PedalBox , which is just a throttle controller. Assuming you have a fly-by-wire setup (I'm not that up to speed on the newer Hiluxes), then all it does is increase the ratio of the pedal to the throttle. Some people claim better performance, but it doesn't do anything that pressing the pedal harder/faster wouldn't accomplish, so we're talking fractional improvement, and something that would probably get either tiresome or wear off after a while (as you get used to the driving style).

ANZAC Day is on the Friday (25th)

The pedal box is the bracket/mount that houses the pedals (accelerator, brake, clutch etc). It has nothing to do with the exhaust, so this makes no sense whatsoever.

nah, im fine doing it. Unless its against the rules il do what i want :) Thanks mate. Necro-posting in threads that have been dead for years (and not necessarily contributing any more information) could be classed as spam. It also doesn't help you make friends, although there has been the odd occasion of it helping to cure a mild rash just behind the left ear.

In "classic me" fashion, I finally got around to fixing a problem that has been on-going for probably 2 years minimum....my fuel cap. So a long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, my fuel cap release stopped working. Judging from my limited knowledge of Bowden cables, it seemed that the cable had stretched (was still attached at both ends but lever travel was insufficent to open the flap, and when closed the fuel-cap end of the cable sat several centimetres past the socket on the flap lever wheel. Because I could still open the fuel cap in a pinch by manually turning this wheel, I put it in the big basket of "I'll fix that one day when I get around to it", and it stayed that way for the better part of 2 years. Eventually, the Soarer stretched it's bonnet release cable (classic symptom of front driver's side wheel rubbing through the guard splashguard and wiring, price to pay for living the low life), I decided to kill two birds with one stone and order both cables at the same time. A quick consult of my Gregorys manual showed that it should be a simple case of unhooking the cable at both ends, tying a piece of string to one end and then pulling the cable through the car, hooking the new cable onto the string and then reversing the procedure. Whoever wrote that procedure should be shot. Not only did the cable refuse to budge when unclipped from each end, I had to pull apart half the interior (boot carpet trim, rear seat base, rear seat side bolsters, both B-pillar covers, both rear door jambs, drivers door jamb, driver's seat belt, driver's seat) only to find that the cable is held in place by 3-prong clips in no less than SIX separate locations. Not even Hercules could have pulled that cable through, and even if he did there would be no chance in hell of getting the new cable to clip in as it was pulled through, thus making the point moot. So an hour or two of swearing, scuffed knuckles and a front lawn strewn with interior plastics and seats, I got the new cable installed. Re-installed everything, only to find that the new cable still didn't open the flap (checked it for binding, checked it with the cabin lever moulding not screwed back down to the driver's seat mount, it all worked then, but when installed fully it suddenly stopped). In yet another "classic me" moment, I worked out that the old cable had not, in fact, stretched, but that a tiny piece of plastic clip had broken off the lever moulding, which meant that the cabin-end of the cable sheath was not anchored and thus half the lever travel was taken up in straightening the sheath. A quick visit to eBay sourced me a new cabin lever moulding (shared with the boot release), and 5 minutes later in the carpark the new unit was installed, with both fuel cap and boot release cable sheats firmly clipped in and operating smoothly, and for the first time in a long time I can now open the fuel cap without resorting to sticking my arm elbow-deep into the depths of the rear guard to manually turn the lever wheel.

Is your air-con turned on?

You can have two identical-spec cars that run differently to each other and neither is broken, simply due to manufacturing tolerances and variations in fluids, engine condition etc. In saying that, it would be worth monitoring the situation and if it gets worse then investigating it, but if it's not impacting the drivability of the car then it isn't really a problem, just a "quirk"

9 times out of 10, people who claim to be getting magic results from Royal Purple are suffering from the placebo effect - "I just spent $150 on an oil change, I must be getting awesome results", despite a $20 bottle of Penrite probably giving the same results. Unless you're running a finely tuned race engine that you regularly tear down and inspect/rebuild, and/or doing used-oil analysis after every oil change, you have no way of really "proving" that one oil is better than another. The Ruckus has the same 2.4L engine as a Camry, it's not a Ferrari. Good quality name-brand oil that matches the manufacturer's recommended viscosity will be more than sufficient, spending 3-4 times that on RP for maybe 1-2% gain (if anything) is folly (and certainly not worth the outlay)

4AGEs are renowned for revving to 2000-2500rpm when cold, to give an example (and they weren't consistent either) When you think about it, idle-speed control is actually quite tricky. Depending on the setup you've got a non-linear control method (wax pellet valve, bi-metallic strip, throttle butterfly on fly-by-wire etc), in-built delays/feedback, a constantly varying input (coolant temperature) etc etc, plus there are a multitude of additional factors controlling the idle speed (electrical load from the alternator, air-con idle-up, power steering idle-up etc). If the idle-speed can't sit bang-on the same number all day every day when warm (and they don't), why expect them to be any more consistent on cold-idle? The whole point of cold-idle is to bring the engine (and catalytic converter) up to temperature faster, as well as prevent additional loads from stalling the engine (a cold engine is less powerful than a warm one and more prone to stalling due to internal drag). Cars with finely tuned and controllable idle-speeds can run a lower cold-idle speed due to this greater ability to react to extra loads, older engines or ones with merely "satisfactory" idle-speed control will often just dump a heap of extra revs in to make sure it doesn't stall (go back to the old days of manual chokes on carbies, if you didn't pull the choke out on cold starts it would struggle and stall easily on a normal idle speed) And oil is up to pressure within a second of cranking, the system is designed with anti-drainback valves etc to retain oil in critical locations, it isn't like you are running a bone-dry engine at 2500rpm for minutes on end.

Good luck getting a different result elsewhere - cars in general these days don't seem to have the longevity and build quality of even 10 years ago - they are built to last the warranty period. To most people who buy cars on 3-year leases and then trade-in, this is irrevelant.

The website states 1-2 day turnaround on quotes, remember this relies on them being able to get confirmation of stock from Toyota as well as shipping quotes, so it can occasionally drag out.

ToyoDIY have removed their diagrams due to legal pressure from Toyota - the part numbers are still valid however, and there are other sites out there which have the pictures to go with the numbers.

So the saga continues - got the driver's side wheel arch wiring repaired yesterday, headlights are now a go (although the driver's low beam seemed to cut out again last night, quick check this afternoon turned out to just be a loose plug on the back of the bulb). Unfortunately, the dreaded bong has now appeared in conjunction with the catalytic converter light and the "Alternator not charging battery" katakana. Pulled out the Power FC hand controller and monitored battery voltages on the way to work this morning, whilst driving they were sitting steady at around ~13.8-14V, with the ignition off but the key in the ON position it was around 12V, but dropped to 10V briefly when starting (and starting has been difficult on the odd occasion lately). Thinking it might be new battery time but the fact that the "alternator not charging" warning has come on every time the ignition has been turned ON as long as we've had the car (but would go away on starting) makes me think it could be alternator as we've changed the battery in the past (when it died) and the warning didn't go away.....sigh

Asking someone to go up against Superdave or his old-man is a bit unfair :P

Last Active Dec 05 2011 02:42 AM Next time try not to bump a 2 year old thread, especially one by someone who hasn't been back to the forums in those 2 years...

Actually an SX ZZT231 would probably be faster than a ZR, same engine and slightly less weight :P

Have you had a wheel alignment done? If everything is straight and true with the front of the car (wheel alignment, no chassis damage etc) then you can take the steering wheel off the spline and rotate it so that it lines up properly then re-install it.

Kluger is now US-sourced, and the Yanks aren't that big on diesels in anything smaller than a Dodge Ram (hell, I don't even think the US Hilux/Tacoma has a diesel option)

'95? That'd make it an XV10 (widebody), which all had power steering standard...