mbruce

Nothing major, but just some new QFM HPX pads and DBA rotors. Less than impressed by the pads, but will give them a bit longer to prove themselves. Recently took a little trip to Tasmania

Well that's a bit ordinary then Nah, no LEDs on mine. Interesting though, as I tend to take note of most gen5s, and cant say I know that one, but then I don't tend to get around too much at night.

Not too bad Andrew, only that the OBX header and mid pipe are a bit short to connect up to the existing exhaust,(Wasn't too bad for me as I got the whole system upgraded anyway). that may not be the case with the USDM Camry. Also the bracket on the base of the header requires a little tweaking to fit.

Nor do the ones for the 2AZ-FE (Aus Camry at least) now that you mention it Andrew, so in that respect they are not the best. But in my case, the OBX were the only ones available off the shelf, and a lot cheaper that custom, so I thought they were worth a try, and they are still going good, so I am reasonably happy with them.

Can’t comment on the gains out of these particular headers, but can comment on the quality of OBX headers in general, and I have found the ones I have on my Camry to be quite good. Admittedly there is probably better stuff out there, but for the price they have good gains and high build quality (Although mine sound a little tinny at high revs). Some people have said they felt OBX headers aren't much good, probably because of the price, but I think this is unfounded. Good to see another member in Hervey Bay, I have seen your car around a bit, and it looks very nice. :)

Yeah they are after market. They do have hub cetric rings also.

24, Bus and Coach Diver.

Hi all, About 6-8 weeks ago I get a new set of tires, Michelin pilot sport 3 (235/40/18) which is what I had on it before also. There was a shake in the steering when I picked it up, so I took it back and got them to balance them again, they did, but also they found one the wheels was bent a little, so I ordered a new wheel. When the wheel came I took the car to another place, and got a second alignment, balance and swapped the tire off the bent wheel onto the new rim, still shook. So took it back again and balanced them again to no avail. The shake is really only felt on smooth roads at high speed, which is what a lot of my driving is. I also took the 17” wheels off my parents Aurion Sportivo, and put them on my car, and it didn’t shake at all, also put my wheels on the Aurion, and dint shake as badly, but it did slightly at a certain speed. I should point out that with the last set of Michelin's I had, had the car balanced a few times before it was shake free, it would last about 10.000 kms, and it would start to shake again, so balance and alignment and it was all good again. So I am rather puzzled as to what it could be, and how to prove it. I am thinking it could be the tires, but would seem unlikely being quality ones. Maybe I have some worn parts (But it dint shake like this before) or the people working on it are doing a **** job??? Any ideas? Mitchell

On the issue of warping, GSL Rally sport posted this on Facebook the other day, thought it might be of interest: Contrary to almost universal belief, cast iron disc rotors do not warp! It's a condition called disc thickness variation (DTV), whereby the pad material has been laid down unevenly on the rotor. Pads don't interact directly with the rotor, they interact with a layer of their own material that's been laid down, thus why bedding pads in properly is so important! Pad material is laid down unevenly from either the use cheap crappy pad materials or pad material which is unsuitable for the application the vehicle is being used for, or from excessive wheel bearing float. The vast majority of issues with brakes ‘warping’ is actually excessive wheel bearing float, and people blame the rotor when in 10,000k’s the problem is back! Even if the rotor measures out of true, doesn’t mean the rotor is the problem. Disc thickness variation (which wasn’t a rotor issue) can cause hotspots on the rotors, and that’s what causes the distortion of the rotor. But the underlying problem is VERY rarely the rotor! Before jumping to the conclusion that your rotors are ‘warped’, here some tips: - Ensure that a proper and adequate bed in was done. With the emphasis being on constant application, not excessive. - Check the wheel bearings as best you can - Justify your pad choice with the vehicle’s recent use. If there’s a mismatch, be sure to change to a different pad.

It should be done at around 100.000kms, so by rights it should have been done already.

Did you get a wheel alignment when you got the new tyres? If not it would be a good idea to get that done.

Thanks :)

I know, one day! Thanks. I geuss the other issue is finding a good set, these ones were rather dirty, but cleaned up ok. Well they are just alot more supportive. The Sportivo 5.5 are black, and there is a difrance between 4 cyl and 6, the main being the 4cyl has no air bag, and the V6 does.

Small update, recently got some Sportivo seats for the front, and gee they are a big improvment over the Altise ones! Unfountantly the wrecker the I got them from, the car didnt have the bottom part of the back seat, so i didnt worry about it, for now. Also finaly took the VVT-i badges off the sides

It has come a long way since the beggining! Certainly dose look stylish Anthony. :)

Looks good mate!

back in 2006, Toyota quoted me approx $900- $1000 for the Gen 5.5 (2004-2006) Genuine fog lights. Not sure what the prices were like for the gen 5 (2002-2004) genuine foglights. Back in 2007 they were around half of that for the Gen5 I was quoted about $1000 for gen 5 (02-04) about 12 months ago. regarding installation, the wiring in the bumper is there to the junction box, fuse etc but there is none for the switch, so that's the tricky part. you need a relay also. I still haven't finished mine yet, its coming, but so is Christmas.

Here tis Jeffry Sounds a bit better now with a cat

Hevent updated this in a fair time, first post updated. Sway Bar link OBX headers A few new pics Mitchell

Looks cool Andrew! B)

Hi, I have been in the process of adding fog lights to my Camry for a wile now, I brought a genuine stalk with fog switch, but the issue is there is no wire between the switch and the junction box/body control module. I have taken it to an auto electrician but he doesn't have a connector small enough, and didn't want to solder a wire onto the small pin, as it may damage the switch with the heat etc. He suggested I get a plug cut off from a wrecker, cut mine off and join the wires to the new one, but no one ether has one with fog lights, or is not interested in cutting up the loom. I have a few pics here to show you what i am talking about. Circled is pin No. 12 the one i think I need to use. Any help much appreciated. Also if someone with a gen 5 with fog light could remove their lower steering column cover and take a photo of the back of the switch to make sure its only one wire I need and it is pin No. 12, I would be very grateful. Mitchell

Since the Altise doesn't have the selector lights in the dash, are you sure the Altise has all the necessary wiring and a sensor/s on the gear selector? I don't know, but I would have thought some of the wiring may have been there, but without the sensor etc, or it may have to come through the body control module/junction box, in which case its possibly not worth the hassle, unless your good with that type of thing.

That looks absolutely brilliant Andrew! Well done. Wish I could get my hands on a Sportivo grill!

Hi all, I have installed a pair of oem stye fog lights with genuine indicator stalk switch on my 03 Altise. So question is where is the fog light relay located? Short of pulling the dash to pieces, I cant for the life of me find it.

Hi Mate, you should be able to get the bushes from any parts place, like Repco etc, or Toyota if you want genuine. Really it’s a very easy job to replace them, you could do it your self if you had a set of stands / car ramps and a spanner or two. Otherwise I wouldn’t have thought more than about $50 for a mechanic to replace them.