LordBug

https://toyota-general.epc-data.com/camry_aurion/ or http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_2014_TOYOTA_AURION_all.html Might be able to help you with being able to search by the VIN

Do you know if they only looked at the transmission, or did they check the wheels & CVs as well?

I've read that upgrading the front brakes to Kluger twin pot calipers is the go, with larger discs. I've got them sitting out back, waiting for me to clean them up, give 'em a service and a lick of paint, and then I'll stick them in. Oh yeah, giving the transmission an oil change too. Flushing it and filling it with fully synthetic made for smoother changes in my departed TRD. Another job that I'll do at the same time as the brakes, which I'll do when I get a new CV joint, since my current one is shot haha haaaa sigh

Hi all, Has anyone replaced the drivers side inner CV boot before? And how much of a bugger of a job is it to do? Suspect I have a small split, and get a bad feeling it's been there for a while. Any tips on checking if the bearings etc are fine?

07 Sportivo, same thing, filter shows. Odd design, but it's water tight so I'm not overly fussed 🙂

Ooooof, so much want!

Oooof, that's one sexy unit! Is there a noticeable whine when you give it the foot?

Absolutely loving this thread, really keen to hear if the TVS1900 gives a bit more of that sexy supercharger whine over the TRD variant. Dumb question about the coilovers - you can get them without the car being lowered? I love the height my ZR6 sits at compared to my old TRD, and wouldn't mind upgrading the suspension to combat the occasional axle tramp so long as I don't lose any of that height

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone else has discovered water has somehow found its way into the boot, namely the spare tyre well. I'm going to remove all the boot lining and hose down the rear end at some point to see if I can spot where it came from, so mostly just curious. I was involved in a rear-ending a year & a half back, so it could be the panel beaters were just average with their overall work. Cheers!

Man, I've really gotta do this!

I think the motor is behind the maplight (the light next to the roof controls), if you pop the light off and remove the motor you'll be able to manually slide the roof back, though I'm not sure how you'd go about getting it to pop back up to form the watertight seal, I'm just going by this thread:https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/358984-moonroof-stuck-open-2000-camry-xle-s-raining.html Hope you have a win

This morning after getting to a jobsite, I was sitting with just the radio on when the vsc & engine lights came on. Long story short my battery had finally given up the ghost, glad workmates were there so I could duck out and get a freshie :D

I feel like she's a bit heavy on the fuel, sits around the 10.5~11l/100 mark with my style of driving, whereas my old trd with more kms on the clock would an easy 1l/100 lower than that with the same style of driving. Changing out the plugs is a cheap enough exercise in my books, also going to do an injector clean (in my ultrasonic cleaner) and have a rebuild kit on the way, because what the heck. Mostly curiosity as opposed to necessity really

One I had come up was the supercharger coupler was worn, so when the car was idling it had a very diesel engine ticking sound coming from the sc snout, the noise would go away when you applied some revs.

haha damn, I only just ordered the NGK's yesterday and didn't even think of trying the pamper20 code. Oh well! :p

If you're really keen you can buy a stethoscope from supercheap, otherwise with the screwdriver you pretty much have your ear against the end of it which helps you to hear if the sound is coming from the thing it's touching.

Typically you can't, though if you use an app like BTMono you can, but the quality is compromised.

I'm pretty certain that's a solid yes. I hope so anyway, I've got the TRD rear bumper & bootlid w/ spoiler that I'm going to put on my ZR6 eventually!

My sincere apologies for the seemingly lazy question, I have tried searching but I'm having a royal brainfade in picking the right terms and can't find any. Just after a pic that shows the HU plugs, facing the pin opening. Thanks

Sorry to dig this one up, but I just want to check what pads people are running with their upgraded calipers and how much dust they're putting out. Finally bought a pair of calipers yesterday (can't rush into these things haha), rotors are on the way, and I'm slightly doing my head in looking locally and internationally for pads that won't dust up and scream all day long

Going by the bustling hive of activity of this forum sub, I expect a speedy response (haha) Anyways, in case there's anybody out there, just a couple of questions about that particular unit, the GA8164. 1. How do you find the sound quality compared to the stock unit? 2. Don't suppose anyone knows if there's a pre-out on that unit? The head unit info page doesn't give any specifics, just the front & rear outputs vs front & rear speaker outputs, which has me scratching my head. All I want is google maps, bluetooth connectivity, and DAB+, with a physical volume knob (not buttons!), is that too much to ask for D':

I remember it being pretty easy to do on my TRD (rip baby), take off the driver side wheel, remove the access panel, and use something to back off the belt tensioner and then the rest is pretty straightforwards, just take note of the routing if you don't have that handy sticker in the engine bay anymore :)

It makes no difference unfortunately. I had already been using it in my TRD when the dash started breaking down, and it didn't cover the stickiness either. Think of it like sunscreen - it'll stop you from getting burnt skin, but it won't stop you from dying inside :)

Last time I did the pads, which was on my TRD may she rest in peace, I found I could compress the pistons by hand/finger strength alone.

If the engine kinda sounds like a diesel while idling, get a bit closer and confirm the rattle is coming from the s/c, which'll mean you'll want to look at replacing the coupling inside. Also, keep an eye out for the dreaded melting dash, as per the sticky up the top. If you find one where the dash has already been replaced you're laughing.