campbeam

Better to service your vehicle more regularly. Modern engines have smaller oil galleries and place higher demands upon oils. A while ago, I bought my October 2006 Aurion with the known issue of blowing smoke on start-up. Eventually learnt that it was caused by accumulated engine oil sludge and the PCV Valve was also blocked. This can easily be attributed to poor maintenance from overdue oil changes and use of low specification oil. I am DIY so I have done multiple oil and filter changes to get rid of the oil sludge rather than remove the valve covers for a thorough clean. My driving is mainly short distance <20 minutes so this contributes to oil degradation and potential for oil sludge formation. Consequently, I do an oil and filter change every 5,000 km.

Because I have fitted this exact product to my Aurion earlier this year and have had no issues/problems except getting the fluid at the correct level. It looked the same as the original filter being replaced. Also bought another 3 filter kits ready to replace every 2-3 years or 45-50,000 km intervals.

For my 1998 Camry, I fitted Boge shock absorbers which came with a lifetime warranty from Fulcrum Suspension and heavy duty standard height King Springs. Good firm ride but still comfortable. A few months later, I also fitted a front strut brace from Ultra Racing. Absolutely loved being able to go through suburban corners and roundabouts with very little body roll. Since then, Boge has been taken over/owned by Sachs another German manufacturer. Fulcrum Suspension charge a bit more but offer a lifetime warranty. I am guessing that they play the numbers game of increased sales revenue to offset any claims assuming the original owner still has the vehicle >3 years.

Central locking in my Aurion went haywire one day a few months ago, lock then a few minutes later relock again. I unlocked the vehicle, opened the drivers door, key in ignition and lowered window. Then sat in driver,s seat and closed door. I then used the central locking switch on the door. Did this a few times with the key in the ignition and out of the ignition. Do not remember if I also started the engine while pressing on the door switch. Eventually the doors locked and unlocked using the door switch. Then exited vehicle and locked and unlocked doors with the remote. Perhaps just blind luck or a bit of perserverance. No problems since then with the central locking.

After reading the following article http://www.caradvice.com.au/494956/2018-toyota-camry-spied/, I started to think how many current Aurion owners would be tempted to change over to a turbo 4 cylinder Camry. Personally, I have preferred a non-turbo engine mainly because of long term reliability. Turbos are nice until something goes wrong like a blown seal then off to the workshop.. Also less stress on the engine and 6 cylinders engines shouldy have a better life expectancy than 4 cylinders before having to do a rebuild. Always reminding myself that 2000 rpm in the Aurion is the equivalent of 3000 rpm in a 4 cyl Camry. Absolutely love how the 2GR-FE engine responds for overtaking on the open highway so less time overtaking, safer driving.

Maybe over a Camry. I have yet to move to Kia because I am not a new/recent model car buyer. After reading a review of the Kia, I then went to the review of the Subaru Liberty 3.6R. Now that vehicle is more of a direct competitor to the Aurion. However, total costs of ownership is still a major factor along with reliability, performance and ready availability of spare parts for DIY maintenance.

Dave, have a read of the attachment. Something else to check for is any vacum hose leaks. Positive Crankcase Understanding.doc

I would start with a clean/check/replacement of the air filter, then a clean of the throttle body and the idle control valve. There are quite a number of Youtube videos about how to clean the throttle body and the idle control valve. Also check/clean the PCV valve [positive crankcase ventilation valve] because this can impact upon fuel economy. Good idea to check the engine valve cover for any signs of engine sludge build up. If the oil looks a very golden to black colour, then do an oil and filter change. Something else to consider especially if your odometer reading is close to 160.000km is to replace the transmission filter and fluid..

2007 Camry/Aurion auto transmissions do not have a dipstick. Auto industry trend to not have a transmission apparently started in mid 1990's. Just guessing [I also like a good conspiracy theory which mirrors reality] but this would have marginally reduced the manufacturing cost. Also servicing becomes more specialised so more work for the dealership. 2001 Honda Accord transmissions have a dipstick but the inline filter is "sealed for life" within the transmission. There is no transmission pan to readily access the filter. The transmission has to be removed and disassembled to replace the filter. Lesson learnt, so I will not buy a vehicle that does not have an accessible transmission pan to change the filter.

I have used Sikaflex 252 Polyurethane adhesive or similar to repair/reinforce engine mounts http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Sikaflex-Adhesive-252-310ml-Black/381165 In your case, you would need to remove the trailing arm, fill the bush spaces with Sikaflex then allow 24 hours for the adhesive to fully cure before refitting the trailing arm. This will be a lot easier and cheaper than trying to press out the existing bushes and pressing in replacement polyurethane bushes. Know this from personal experience replacing the transmission mount on my Nissan Pulsar.

A number of posts mention the intermediate steering shaft having to be replaced and to check that it is well lubricated/greased. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/23623-aurion-intermediate-shaft-spline/ Suggest that you do a Google search with the search terms"Toyota, Steering, Knock". http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2279397

I would be inclined to keep the vehicle but I have hoarder tendencies. As I said in another post, if you want performance and reliability then do both regular and preventative maintenance. I do oil and filter changes every 5,000 km using the latest oil specification eg SN. After doing some research, I am changing over to just using a full-synthetic transmission oil in all my vehicles. Always best to check various lubrication guides for your vehicle and choose the better quality oils. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp

Avalonnw, Definitely check the air filter. No harm in cleaning the throttle body and the MAF [mass airflow] sensor. Also clean/check/replace the PCV [positive crankcase ventilation] valve. Depending upon your odometer reading, the original long life iridium spark plugs will be due for replacement after about 192,000 kms. Something else to consider is an oil and filter cartridge change if you have done more than 5,000 km since the last change. If the odometer reading is >160,000km, a transmission fluid and filter change is highly advisable assuming that the transmission has not been touched since new.

Similar experience as Kombi17 with my 2006 Aurion. Average 10L per 100km with urban driving. Can also achieve 7.8L per 100km for interstate trips when cruising. Not so good with lots of full throttle overtaking manouvres. I have mainly used 36PSI on my various vehicles. However, now using 38-40PSI on my Aurion which is fitted with standard profile tyres.

Oil sludge is an engine killer. You "bullet proof"your drive train with both regular and preventative maintenance. Based upon your previous post, Toyota flushed your engine several times because the engine was so full of sludge, it was affecting the proper functioning of the valve train hence the poor acceleration. You either learn from past experience or repeat the same mistake. Factors that contribute to oil sludge formation include short distance driving i.e. less than 20 minutes, use of incorrect/poor quality oils and overdue maintenance. If you want performance and reliability, then properly maintain your vehicle

How long are you intending to keep the car? I am more DIY so keep mine forever until uneconomical to repair.

Thanks for the additional information. Looks like your Dealer is giving you the run around/ not acknowledging there is a problem. 1. Strongly suggest that you do a Google search using " 2012 camry transmission recall " and start reading the URLs. e.g. https://www.cars.com/articles/2012-2014-toyota-camry-transmission-issue-1420682965065/ 2. Obtain the VIN for your vehicle 3. Contact Toyota Australia and discuss whether there is a similar recall/limited service campaign here in Australia. You may need to be making a powertrain warranty claim to have the torque convertor replaced. In other threads, I have read posts where owners have gone to the ACCC to pursue a claim with the vehicle manufacturers.

Totally agree about getting the vehicle to a transmission specialist. Gear change noises are not good. Hopefully, it is not the torque converter going bad. http://myautomatictransmission.com/what-can-go-wrong-with-an-automatic-transmission.htm How many kms on the odometer? Do you do any towing? Do you have a sedate driving style more focused upon fuel economy or a more driving for fun, harder acceleration driving style? All of these factors are considerations for having a transmission oil change. May also be worthwhile to consider having the transmission filter replaced.

The creaking noise is more likely coming from the coil springs. Possibly the rubber seat is worn or moved out of position so there is metal to metal contact. Another possibility is gravel caught in the spring seat area. Hopefully a good spray with silicone is all that is needed.

Best to put the car on ramps then get under and have a look at the bushes. Give the sway bar a bit of a shake; there should be no movement. No harm in giving the bushes a bit of a spray with silicone to reduce any squeaking noises.

Suggest doing a search on eBay and also confirm with the eBay seller whether the body kit part advertised for a Camry will also fit the Aurion. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/579-Rear-Lip-Spoiler-For-Toyota-Camry-2012-2014-/161500780992?hash=item259a3259c0:g:exwAAOSwg3FUd-2U

You could consider acoustic foam for the bonnet, firewall and doors. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000mm-x-500mm-Car-Door-Bonnet-Firewall-Muffler-Sound-Deadener-Insulation-Proof-/321698803205?hash=item4ae6be2e05:g:yccAAOSwstxVCNYV

Agree. Next suggestion would be to check the fuel float level. Too high a level impacts fuel economy. Too low a level and the engine gets starved for fuel during acceleration/higher speeds. Also check the fuel supply hose/connections to the carby for leaks.

Other threads made mention of cleaning the throttle body and replacing the air filter for better fuel economy. While cleaning the throttle body, good idea to also clean the idle control valve and MAF sensor.

May be worthwhile to check/clean the PCV valve. http://www.mpgenhance.com/pcv_valve_fuel_economy.html Also good idea to check the engine for oil sludge and do some preventative measures. .