campbeam

I do not have an answer for your question about that suspicious sponge which could be a dodgy workaround. However, you may find this YouTube video of interest as a potential cheap oil leak fix. Viewed this quite some weeks ago and kept this in mind.

I happened to view a recent video by The Car Nut where he does a quick technical review of the 2022 Toyota Corolla Cross. That particular vehicle was manufactured at a new Toyota factory in Alabama USA. Although I am not a great fan of crossovers and SUVs, what I found interesting was that technically Toyota has focussed upon a functional reliable vehicle. Apparently, the 2022 Toyota Corolla Cross is set to arrive in Australia in the second half of 2022. https://www.drive.com.au/news/2022-toyota-corolla-cross-2-0-litre-hybrid-and-petrol-power-set-for-australia/

I located the digital tyre depth gauge yesterday and remember putting it safely into a sealed plastic bag. I did a thorought search for it this afternoon and could not locate it. Good news is that I located a missing set of rear brake pads. Anyway, I knew where the tyre pressure gauge was so did a tyre pressure check. Consistent on all tyres still being at 38psi. Last tyre pressure check would have been 2 months ago. I am fairly confident that the tyres were adjusted to 38psi at that time. I am thinking that the internal application of the Aerospace 303 may be acting as a sealant. If so, the next planned cold tyre pressure readings in a few months should either assist to confirm or disprove that thought. Perhaps by then I will have relocated that elusive digital tyre depth gauge.

I did notice the same deal but I have recently swapped over to a set of mag wheels fitted with new Continental CC5 [now superceded]. It should be a few years before I need to replace them but I do have the Michelin Primacy 4 and Continental UC6 on my watchlist.

I have got a few thoughts but unlikely for a relatively new vehicle. Ist thought is that the strut is worn and bottoming out. However this should have already been easily detected. 2nd thought is some gravel or stones caught in the strut around the base of the spring. Last thought is to take it to Pedders for a $28 Check and Report. Maybe an inconvenience but at least this will hopefully determine/detect any suspension issues.

You need to find your way to a wreckers or auto recyclers yard. There are plenty of 40 series Aurions and Camrys available. I picked up a replacement interior sunvisor for $20 but this would have been about 5 years ago. Removal and installation is a fairly simple screwdriver job after popping off the plastic cover.

I do not know about the labour costs. I would expect a time estimate of less than 4 hours to replace the spark plugs. Replacing the front 3 spark plugs [plus coil packs] took me approx. 15 minutes. Other time is taken up removing/refitting the windscreen wiper assembly and the cowel to have access to the 3 rear spark plugs. I would expect a time estimate of 30 minutes for replacing the serpentine belt which is straight forward. Most time will be taken with correctly fitting the replacement belt around the various pulleys.

I do agree with your clogged filter theory. It would put more load on the fan and its controller. Unsure about the bushings wearing which could be more related to the number of hours of working life and under dash temperature. As I noticed earlier, you were not so happy about the recent hotter weather with 30+ temperatures. Good to speculate upon possible underlying causes so that a repeat repair can be avoided or minimised. Anyway it makes sense to check/clean/replace the cabin air filter on a regular basis. My vehicle is parked outdoors under shade, when possible so I notice an accumulation of leaves when I open the engine bonnet. Totally agree with your closing comment of "Fixed is fixed".

It should be relatively easy to confirm whether it is still leaking from the sump plug. First step is to thoroughly clean around the sump plug so that it is totally clean and dry. Easy and safe way to do this is to put the vehicle up on ramps. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. If no obvious leaks go for a drive to get the engine up to operating temperature. When you return, put the vehicle up on ramps and check the sump plug area. Personally I would start by cleaning the engine from top down with engine degreaser with particular attention around the valve covers and their seal. Following YouTube video should be useful in tracking down those oil leaks.

Just viewed this YouTube Video about synthetic oil. What caught my attention near the end of this video was a presentation graph titled "Motor Oil Life". Interesting or deliberate oversight in that the time scale line is left blank. Guess that you have to interprete the graph and draw your own conclusions. For me, it indicates that there is an optimal time period for the life of the motor oil at which point it should be changed. Leaving it too late has too many disadvantages particularly for engine wear and protection.

Those existing pictures already show that the existing V shaped brace is structural to stiffen the body. You can see that it can be unbolted. It looks like it should be possible to construct a straight brace. Following link shows an additional brace. https://ultraracingaustralia.com.au/product/t-camry-aurion-acv40rgsv40r-07-11-rear-bar-4-point/ I think that you would be better served to go visit a few local auto recycling yards particularly looking at Camrys. If you want full boot access then the rear seat will need to fold down. I have noticed on YouTube videos that USA Camrys [or some models] have the folding rear seats.

This eBay listing by an auto recycler for a used bonnet is $220 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/203555643513?hash=item2f64dca079:g:tnQAAOSwBDthEpdN Your cheapest option would be to contact a wrecker's hotline and try to get one with the same paint code as your Aurion. It will be interesting to see some pictures of your damaged bonnet and whether it looks to be repairable. Being somewhat frugal [financial tight *****], I would be thinking of removing the bonnet, putting it on the lawn and stepping on the damaged area or using a rubber hammer to try and pop out most of the gouged/depressed area.

Similar to KAA, I have banned myself from SCA, AutoBarn and Repco but previously got drawn into multiple specials that were just too good to resist. Resistance level has now increased after having quite a few years supply on hand. 40% discount off the Shell Engine Oils appears to be good but I am sure that the RRP has increased since I last bought them on special.

My major concern is the level of corruption, cost cutting and lack of ethics particularly where CCP members are involved in State run businesses. I would not be surprised if the 1st batch of production was specifically manufactured to specification to get the required ANCAP rating. Later production is then subject to cost cutting measures. End result is reflected in that legal judgement [refer initial post] essentially stating the inferior manufacturing quality making the product unfit for purpose.

Not so bad really mainly because I had viewed a few YouTube video before as part of the preparation. I also referred to it on the day as there was one hidden away bolt that needed to be removed. I am working on the 2GR-FE engine so there would be similarities in working space. I had to remove the radiator shroud and fan assembly to have enough room to remove the alternator. If you are really pedantic [not me], then maybe a good idea to also remove the radiator. I took most of a day but also checked and re-greased the idler pulleys. I expect that others should be able to do it within a morning but I move at my own leisurely pace. Ended up being good preparation for replacing the water pump [about 9 months later] and that took me a day and a half.

I was not sure whether it was the alternator pulley or the actual alternator that needed to be replaced. Decided that the best option was to replace with a complete unit and the issue would be resolved.

I remember that the earlier models of the Great Wall utes folded up like a pack of cards in an accident. Quickly written off and I am not sure how well the occupants fared. In my opinion, the true crash worthiness of a vehicle is when you can open the door afterwards and walk away uninjured. Also the faster the speed with the resultant greater forces involved, risk of injury increases greatly. Read recently an internet headline that the old do not acquire wisdom but instead they make safer decisions.

While you await a reply from actual Avalon owners, I replaced the alternator in my Oct. 2006 Aurion in March 2019 after 207,500 kms. Original starter motor is still fitted. Personally, I would not bother replacing them until they actually started to give issues. Depending upon your perspective about future availability of these parts and long term ownership, it may be worthwhile acquiring spares at the right price.

"All that glitters is not gold". I have seen a few LDV vans on the road and they look good because they are relatively new. True test will be how many are still on the road after 10+ years. Previous experience in my younger and not so smart days with a Fiat made me realise that I value a vehicle that is reliable, bits not falling off, electrics not working etc. Precisely why I bought Toyota when Honda got too expensive for my wallet. Also ready availability of parts is a big factor especially when you are DIY

Bet he will be glad when that LDV goes around a corner never to return.

It is your own experience with your own vehicle that really matters. Happy days going forward so you can keep the oil change interval in that golden brown colour range

Only laughing because I know how annoying and frustrating it would be for your mate to be having a leaking windscreen. Not a good sign for a relatively new vehicle. I know what my reaction is when I get drips of water on me while sitting on the bus to and from work. At least I can change seats.

Oil being quite black in colour is a sign of high level of contamination and overdue for a change. Hopefully time and weather will provide you with an earlier opportunity for the next oil change.

It is all about the Corporate Culture, attitudes and mindset. I was quite surprised about Mazda so I am sure that the Japanese Head Office will want a full explanation for this reputation harm. Good to see that arrogance to deny consumers their legal rights is being punished. Thinking about the experiences of that previous LDV owner highlights their business strategy. Sell the car cheap to get the foot in the door then beat up the buyer with exhorbitant replacement part prices. My follow on line of thinking was insurance. It could be cheaper to write off vehicles than repair them just because of the parts prices. With enough claims experience, I would expect insurance premiums to be higher.

Dropped into the local tavern to watch the last 21 laps of today's Great Race. Ended up chatting with a retired mechanic who mentioned that he had an LDV van when he was doing some UBER work. He said that the brake rotors lasted about 10,000 kms before they warped and cost a $1000 each to replace. Replacement headlight was $1800. Vehicles may be cheap to buy but you get stung by the cost of replacement parts. Engine had a 100,000 km warranty and it failed at 99,500kms. Engine replacement cost, fortunately covered by warranty was $18000. He traded that vehicle in as soon as he got the repaired LDV back. Just happened to stumble this video by our good mate John. It got me wondering whether the ACCC had got a voluntary signing from LDV. Looks like LDV does not have the monopoly of dumb attitude towards Australian Consumer Law.