campbeam

I checked the catalogue. It is in store only. If the shelf is empty, ask the counter staff. There may be a separate display or more stock in the back room. https://autobarn.com.au/ab/catalogue?mkt_tok=NzY4LVhWRi01NTAAAAF_CbXBjp3TSUC2Vy8gchU-iMbeO7beyURzHXSCUgLXSrdSc4zhTUZHYI5sTiSdNoCnQUSgDADjFfASTpKB1yYqOzdISJUygtJ-KaNm#view=catalogue2&saleId=40588&page=1

Latest AutoBarn catogue has this 10W-30 semi-synthetic oil for $10 at a 75% discount with a limit of 2 per customer. Interesting that it has the latest oil specification of ILSAC GF-6A. https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Oils-%26-Additives/Engine-Oils/Semi-Synthetic/GULF-WESTERN-OIL-PREMIUM-ENERGY-10W-30-5L/p/OA01386?mkt_tok=NzY4LVhWRi01NTAAAAF_CbXBjmDNk4QubVSey1ceOm7ApwAOaZAyFbgMNeR8tosd_g3PT0y-9Mt6-ftZx1BnVXWcz2PzX5WXIrXtMdp2c3WqAplT8F3TTA0a

I would start by topping up the steering fluid reservoir. Definitely inspect the steering system for any weepage or leaks. You may find that either the power steering pump or the steering rack will need to be replaced. Also have a read of that previous post which is quite relevant for your issue.

I would research how to loosen the tension on the serpentine belt for your vehicle. Then check for movement on the idler pulleys, alternator and water pump etc. In my case, it ended up being the water pump that needed to be replaced. There was noticable movement in the water pump pulley. I am guessing from the video that it could be an idler pulley. Please let us know what ends up being the culprit/s.

You detailers must be the same; i.e. OCD 😁 Looking forward to being further entertained and educated by you and Tony. Anyway, nice to see those extra yards of effort in action.

More stories on the USA Forum. Happened to one owner while driving on a freeway. Oil light came on and he pulled over immediately. Vehicle was then towed to a dealership and engine ended up being OK. You ignore oil warning lights at your own peril.

To my knowledge, Toyota Australia has not done an official recall for all vehicles but will replace the front cooler hoses with an all metal version. You should contact Toyota Australia/Customer service 1800 869 682 They will advise what will need to be done to have your vehicle repaired. Please note that your vehicle will most likely need to be towed to the nearest Toyota Dealership. As you would have discovered, there is rapid engine oil loss when one of these rubber hoses fails. There are a number of posts on this Forum which I would recommend reading before contacting Toyota Australia/Customer service 1800 869 682 Even though your vehicle is more than 10 years old, Toyota Australia will pay for the repair. It is a known fault. Please keep us informed of developments.

Appreciate the reply. Unfortunatelyover the last few years, we have seen so many posts reporting an issue but fewer posts confirming what was the actual resolution. It is not so easy to check the oil on the metal dipstick especially when the oil is clear. Last oil change, I suspected that I had overfilled and this proved to be the case. Next weekend, I drained a surplus 1 litre. Learnt to pay more attention and differentiate between the 5 and 6 litre oil containers. Previous father in law [back in the 80's] had his corolla serviced. Engine was not running well and the engine had been overfilled, presumably a significant amount. He returned to the dealership but they convinced him that it would be allright. It would have been quite soon after that the head gasket blew due to the increased oil pressure. Dealership tried to say that it was not their fault. Fortunately, he worked at Castrol so he was able to obtain automotive engineer's report confirming that increased oil pressure from overfilling the engine was the cause. Dealership came to the party and repaired the engine. Hopefully like myself, you have managed to avoid that bullet. In your case, the increased oil pressure has most likely forced more oil past the oil rings to start blowing white smoke. Personally, I would drain the engine oil and refill with the recommended oil viscosity sooner than later. Definitely consider using a 5K oil change interval for preventative maintenance purposes.

Welcome to the Forum. Hopefully, you find plenty of relevant posts for your current vehicles.

Agree with what Tony has posted with some exceptions. Check your owner's manual and the fuel warning light should display when there is approx. 15 litres of petrol remaining in the tank. Fuel tank capacity is 70 litres. Personally, I refuel my vehicle before the 1/2 full indicator on the fuel guage. However, I use jerry cans to be able to take advantage of the petrol station fuel pricing cycle when it is lower. Definitely keep a watchful eye on the water pump. It seems to be a bit of a lottery as to how long your water pump lasts. Check the service history as to when the coolant was last changed. In previous years, I used to remove the coolant overflow bottle, clean out any sediment in the bottom of the bottle and replace the coolant in the overflow bottle annually. I bought my 2006 Aurion with approx. 160K on the odometer with an incomplete, suspect service history and an engine with accumulated oil sludge. I do mostly urban driving so my oil change interval is much shorter then 5K. After a recent highway trip on the weekend, "Sludgy" did her trick of blowing white smoke. So she will be getting another overkill oil change procedure after approx. 2.5K . Highly recomment that you consider the old school approach of a 5K oil change interval. Definitely check the colour of the oil at 5K and possibly continue to 7.5K. I also regularly check the level on the dipstick usually every weekend. A definite issue on the 40 series Aurions before late 2008/2009 was the rubber hose mid-section in the rear VVTi oil line. Toyota did a limited service bulletin at that time to replace that rubber mid-section with a higher quality hose and then a full metal rear VVTi oil line. Highly recommend that you confirm that your vehicle has the full metal rear VVTi oil line. It is a ticking time bomb. From experience, the engine at idle will pump a lot of oil out of a pinprick hole that you cannot visually detect. Check the service history to confirm whether the Automatic Transmission Fluid has been changed. If the transmission has never been serviced, then I would recommend removing and cleaning the transmission pan and replacing the ATF. Most members report experiencing smoother gear changes after changing the ATF. Regular changes of the ATF are going to extend the life of the transmission. On a closing note, the Aurion is a reliable vehicle but it needs to be regularly serviced using quality fluids.

Bring on the lessons. I do not mind learning especially from someone else's experience. Certainly interested to hear more of your thoughts on the alignment settings. I have got to re-locate those camber adjustment bolts and fit them just before getting a wheel alignment in the next few months.

Again, welcome to the Forum. I appreciate someone like myself who is not afraid to admit a mistake and have a laugh at the same time. Personally, I hardly "shine my machine" but Tony has been an influence plus all those YouTube videos about detailing products to appreciate the extreme amount of time and effort to achieve worthwhile results. As my girlfriend would say "That is not nice" after being removed from judging because your results were too good. Not surprised that you have turned away. Those baked goods are so essential especially during lockdown. Sure that you would have been gentler on the roundabouts once the precious cargo was onboard. Going to back up your insightful comment, because I have fitted the Sportivo rear bar to my 40 Series ATX. Price was right and I spent a few hours in occassional dizzly rain wrestling the bar off that Sportivo at the wreckers. I did go looking later but have yet to find another Sportivo bar for my 40 Series Prodigy. Looking forward to reading more of your posts about the "taming" of Sebastian.

I think that Tony is going to be in 7th heaven talking detailing with you. Nice to see that Sebastian has been given an upgraded rear anti-sway bar. Can you share further details of where you sourced the anti-sway bar.

Just viewed another video by Scotty so went looking for an appropriate thread for the post. I will have to remember this trick when I next start up the engine on my standby Aurion to check for a possible vacuum leak.

As you have said, you bought the vehicle used with approx. 80K on the odometer. It is highly likely that oil sludge has accumulated in the engine even though it may have been serviced as per the owner's manual. An oil change interval of 10K is only acceptable for highway driving. Daily trips of 30-50km will undoubtedly get the engine oil up to operating temperature but it is short distance driving which can lead to oil sludge formation unless the engine is serviced as per extreme conditions defined in your owner's manual. Oil specifications have improved significantly over the last 14 years. There are also differences between the base oil and the additive packages. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Base Oils/238/what-are-base-oils/999 As you would expect, premium synthetic oil is at a premium price. Your initial post and subsequent photos are proof that there was a significant amount of sludge which has finally impacted the oil circulation. Fortunately, you have done the remedial work and saved the engine. Going forward, you should highly consider visually checking the condition of the oil on a regular basis and reducing the oil change interval. The old school approach of a 5000 km oil change interval has a lot of preventative maintenance benefits. In contrast to yourself, I bought my vehicle with approx. 160K on the odometer with a known issue which was finally identified as accumulated oil sludge in the valve covers. I chose not to disturb the engine and have been doing many oil and filter cartridge changes in the last 6 years. My regular trips would be 15-25km and this promotes the formation of oil sludge. Consequently, I use a very short oil change interval of approx. 2-3 months. I also do an annual road trip totalling 2500km, changing the oil both before and after.

In a recent post, I added a link to a YouTube video about 5 best under-rated vehicle modifications. I had another search on YouTube and this following video may also be of interest to you. Interest that both videos mention upgrading the brake lines. Following link may not be for your specific vehicle so best to contact the seller and confirm. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283865167243?hash=item4217aeb58b:g:FscAAOSw-sRe2NoN

Essentially, they have modified an ICE engine to run directly using hydrogen. Interesting how he talked about hours of operation and their collection of real world data with differences between Britain and India. The other aspect is the existing pool of expertise for the ICE engine. I agree with ZZT86 , an electric motor should be more reliable with fewer moving parts than an ICE but there is still the issues of quality and efficiency. I have got a wait and see approach for the next 10 years based upon utilising my existing ICE vehicles. If I was more of an early adopter of EV, then I would be preparing by disposing of any vehicles surplus to immediate requirements. Maybe the future will see a plug in hybrid with an engine powered by hydrogen instead of petrol or the availability of hydrogen conversion for existing ICE vehicles.

You have raised another good point. I had not remembered to consider a possible parasitic battery drain. Another good use for a multimeter. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=parasitic+battery+drain+test

Following video is about another alternative to both EV battery packs and fuel cells. Certainly a lot of food for thought for the drive to zero emmissions and the replacement of fossil fuels. If this British Company can achieve so much with their development team, then I am sure that Toyota will take notice.

I particularly noted " Power output rises to 204kW with 95-octane unleaded fuel. "

From my experience, the stock standard side mirrors [in the 40 series] do fold. This may not be the case for your vehicle if the side mirrors have been replaced with electric folding ones.

Following video shows potential hydrogen technology that can be applied to electric vehicles and trucks. Looks like it is a few years away from being available as a replacement or alternative for battery packs.

Just viewed this YouTube video about underrated car modifications. Personally, I have done No.1 and still considering No.5 . It will be interesting if they do post a follow up video for the next 5. URL relating to No.2 indicates some issues to be considered. https://wilhelmraceworks.com/blog/2gr-power-gains

Following video and URL indicate possible solutions which should be easy to implement for a competent mechanic. Please post an update as to what the final solution ended up being. https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/c1201-toyota/

I checked the online reviews so I made sure that the thumbwheel wrench did work, in both directions. Something else that I have noticed more recently is there is not much price differential on eBay between the China sellers and the Aust. based sellers. I am feeling that prices are going up so more likely to buy now rather than later.