campbeam

Hope that your mechanic can take a few photos that you can then post here on the Forum. It will be interesting to see how much sludge has accumated around the valve gear. Just remembered that another advantage of regular oil changes is that when the timing chain and tensioner is well lubricated with clean oil it should last the lifetime of the engine and not need to be replaced. Because I am DIY etc., I do have a tendency to overservice my vehicle and do a fair bit of preventative maintenance. Consequently, I would much rather do extra oil changes for engine reliability and to avoid costly repairs caused by neglect.

My ah ah moment was when doing an interstate trip and going through heavy afternoon rain. I had to slow down to 90 kph because the wipers were not clearing the windscreen fast enough. Safe decision for me but frustrating for the local vehicle behind me. Change of wiper blades mostly resolved that issue for the return trip home. Big pay off is when the glass is clean and you apply a product like Rain X to help the water bead off the windscreen so you are not so reliant upon using the wipers. After seeing Tony's posts and viewing various YouTube videos for the P&S Beadmaker product, this is the product I started using on the front and rear windscreens then progressed to the windows then the body panels especially the front bonnet, roof and boot. Also after making the effort to thoroughly clean the glass and the body panels, I make sure that I do a top up application rather than start all over again. Quick wipedown of a few minutes with a microfibre cloth easily removes the morning dew so you have better visibility.

Good if the dealer is genuine and going to honour their warranty. Another member was in the same situation and it finally got resolved under warranty by removing the front valve cover and giving it a thorough clean. Only If the valve train is badly sludged up would a mechanic also recommend dropping the engine pan and cleaning the oil pick up screen and tube. I very much doubt that this would be the case if your vehicle only has 100K on the odometer. As background information, the 2GR-FE is a modern engine design with smaller oil passages, tighter tolerances and is prone to oil sludge. This why regular oil changes using a quality full synthetic engine oil of the recommended oil viscosity e.g. 5W-30 with genuine Toyota oil filter cartridges are essential when using the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. If your vehicle has not been serviced by a Toyota dealership, then the service centre may potentially have used budget quality engine oils and non-genuine oil filter cartridges. Personally, I use non-genuine oil filter cartridges which only have a recommended 5000 km change interval. I have been changing oil and filter cartridges at 2500 km intervals because most of my driving is short distance.

I must have been suffering from lockdown fever. Finally left home yesterday and local Autobarn would only let me buy 2. I went home and checked the catalogue which states "Until Stocks Last". Today, I bought another 3 at the Autobarn near the girlfriend's place. Then went back to her place and found another stash of engine oil. Definitely going to have to go into self-therapy and ban myself from buying any more engine oil.

Good idea to get fast results. Definitely consider reducing the oil change interval, keep monitoring the oil colour then increase the oil change interval. I got that suggestion from Tony about refilling via the PCV hole in the valve cover. Located my post back in July 2020 where I finished the installation of the catch can.

I have already eliminated VW Group, FCA Group, GM and Ford. Got a watchful eye upon planned EV imports into the Australian market with various concerns about quality and warranty support. Time will tell. I am thinking that this is how Toyota will continue to differentiate themselves and retain market share.

Safe bet would be the Toyota Long Life Coolant. Because I rarely go to a dealership, I would be more likely to go to SuperCheap Auto, AutoBarn or Repco depending upon current price. However, I would have a look at the product selection from either Penrite or Nulon before going to buy. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product-selector#/recommendations http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp

Interesting to view these 10 electric vehicles from a design and technology perspective. I am certainly taken with the more aerodynamic fronts on some of these vehicles.

What you need to do is to also either clean or replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation [PCV] valve. If you have done enough reading particularly on this Forum then you will know that the underlying cause is the oil baffles in the valve cover are sludged up enough so the oil does not drain quickly enough. End result is oil and vapours being drawn into the intake via the PCV valve line. I have added an oil catch can plus an inline filter to help remove the oil vapours. It is useful only after the engine has been desludged. Quickest and better solution is to remove the front valve cover and give it a total clean to remove the accumulated oil sludge. After years of short oil change intervals, I finally found a solution that has worked for me. I now get the engine oil hot and then drain it. I then refill the engine using the heated engine oil via the PCV valve opening in the valve cover. This presumably helps to dissolve most of the sludge in that baffle cover area. I have done this for the last few oil changes and now incorporate it into my overkill oil change procedure. After the recent oil change, the oil on the dipstick should be clear. As engine operation time accumulates, it will turn a light golden colour then a darker golden colour. Definitely change the oil before it becomes a heavily contaminated black cover. Suggest that you consider an oil change interval of 3 months or 3000kms until the engine is desludged and not blowing white smoke on startup.

Latest AutoBarn catalogue has these new Turtle Wax trifecta of products on special. Probably a few $$$ more savings than when SuperCheap Auto has their special.

I know what you mean about the glass not being as slick as expected after ceramic coating the windscreen. I ended up using P&S Beadmaker as a top up coating which needs to be re-applied every few months. Currently, the water starts beads off the windscreen at 60 kph rather than at lower speeds so it is on the To Do list.

I am interested in using diesel engine oils because I understand that they have more detergent additive. It suits my purposes seeing that I do lots of short urban driving and fighting the ongoing oil sludge issue. Even so, I would be using it more as a topping up oil in conjunction with petrol engine oil.

Definitely wothwhile watching the video. I had a few laughs. Following video is more about what is going on in THE CHASM phase of the Technology Adoption Lifecycle. It is about bridging the gap between the EARLY MARKET and the MAINSTREAM MARKET.

This is another recent video by The Car Nut showing the disassembly of the 2GR-FE engine. Pictures are very handy showing the location of various parts. Not looking forward to replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Actually doing the timing cover repair would be in the too hard basket for me.

Latest AutoBarn catalogue has some worthwhile discounted oil specials. Quite tempted by this 75% discount at $20 https://www.autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Brands/Castrol/EDGE-0W-40-5-Litre/p/OA03477?mkt_tok=NzY4LVhWRi01NTAAAAF9_i-nhyl0ZF14mueNiSkNueH4VhiYmVPZjMYEyhItnqWyiFBvw9aWNiFWo8IeXFr9O8Zj91phACTg_2HM_yqdFVAWJIfg0VaSQNja

They are also playing petrol games here in Brisbane. Waited a day too long before refilling so missed out on 128.9 and paid 131.9 this morning. Just checked online and price has jumped up to 173.9 I don't know whether you would dare go to Bunnings and pick up a bag or 2 of aggregate for the pot hole in the front yard. Look forward to your overkill version of doing the coolant flush. Sure that you will be using plenty of distilled water and doing multiple flushes.

Good to see that you are still around. Also busier at work with EOFY. Like most of Australia, I am in lockdown. Interesting times continue. Fortunately, still able to work at home, get paid and save for retirement. List of maintenance to do items is growing. Waiting for warmer weather and keeping healthy [or is that lazier and fatter on the weekends].

Without a time machine or a magic ball to see the future, I am not going to disagree with his perspective. In reply, I have attached the Technology Adoption Lifecycle. I am thinking that at the moment, the market is in THE CHASM but ready to break out into the EARLY MAJORITY phase in 2022 and be in the LATE MAJORITY phase in 2025. At the moment, there are car price increases and production constrainsts because of supply issues. Big question remains as to when price parity between EV and ICE vehicles can actually be achieced.

I have noticed some common elements in the EV platform designs from different brands/manufacturers. Toyota has previously released some specifications of their new dedicated platform for all-electric cars, called e-TNGA (from electric Toyota New Global Architecture) but has yet to release the full details. Following YouTube video for full details of the 2022 Hyundai ((EV Platform E GMP) gives a good indication of what to generally expect when Toyota does finally reveal more specification details of their EV Platform. Apparently we can expect different drive systems RWD, FWD and AWD with different power output motors.

Finally noticed this YouTube video which acknowledges despite the headline that all electric vehicles have yet to make the Plug In Hybrid obsolete in the current market particularly for road trips. Price, range and charging times are still hurdles to be overcome particularly for day trips and interstate trips. What this video did do was make me go and look at a lithium ion battery to replace the existing 12volt lead-acid battery. I think that it will be a future different battery technology that could potentially become a more viable alternative replacement.

Welcome to the Forum. Nice to have another long term owner onboard. Sound like you have selected a well serviced Aurion. If you look at previous posts, you will see that we are keen on regular maintenance with a preference for shorter oil change intervals using a quality full synthetic oil. Big advantage of the 2GR-FE engine is that it has a timing chain but it needs to be kept well lubricated with clean oil.

Yes and no. Before it was mainly mechanical and electrical engineering. Now it is the rise of software engineering in vehicle manufacturing. Tesla is coming from the perspective of computing on wheels with software updates released via the internet whereas OEM manufacturers have a perspective of mechanical upgrades and software updates via the dealership. Vehicle assembly is being simplified to drive down production costs. Many parts being combined into one using a Giga press and other casting techniques. Munro and Associates has a series of YouTube videos where they teardown and compare electric vehicle components between different brands and models. Interesting to see the design and expected longevity of these components. Lot of learnings and room for improvement in the transition from an ICE designed model to a dedicated electric platform design.

He did mention in the video "after 10 minutes" for the 2nd flush. It is what I would have expected to get the flushing oil up to temperature and a chance for the detergent additives in the flushing oil to further clean the engine internals.

In recent posts, we have mentioned that Toyota is looking at having to realign their future strategies to ensure their survival. Just viewed this YouTube video about how Toyota can pivot their strategies and utilise their current technological advantages. Nice to hear one of my thoughts expressed that Toyota should flood the market with their hybrid vehicles. Certainly makes sense to be forming collaborative joint ventures to gain access to proven technologies and side-step/avoid any patent infringements. Hope Toyota is listening, thinking and acting to survive.

Just came across this YouTube video showing a 2nd flush when doing an oil change. Good comparison shot towards the end showing how much residue has been cleaned with the 2nd flush.