campbeam

This YouTube video about the tear down of the 2GR-FE engine appeared in my viewing list. Presumably, the water pump failed or there was a significant coolant leak and the owner continued driving. The engine overheated resulting in blown head gaskets. Surprising how clean the valve covers and timing gear is but still sludge is present in the piston rings and other engine internals.

I did not have much success finding the right size of oil filter wrench cup for your RAV4. I did check the RYCO catalogue and maybe your vehicle uses the Z1096 filter which has a 65.3mm diameter. https://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/part/index/part/Z1096 You could consider this universal type wrench. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/363863577564?hash=item54b7f593dc:g:MFwAAOSwhFtinVd3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABINIYsMZQO5tAvYg8dBLzf9dHG45kGc23O%2FnZGtWBA5Hp4DTQI67mBjL83GnkUYC6H4OjBx%2Bcu0MN5MYOtQXtqBXzQKetQ2mCf7H6jYetHTI1U0ZKXZH2%2F49d8zPmqMiASXyQeA48ivQdcDSM%2Fy5q5J%2Bq62d3avZo7nZ5zOcjHlXlZ6hlayuxDUhcrST3bMJ9%2BVXJMcvSeTcFuF5DXCDrx81RWGVQekh87vCdpx95sOJe8oHLBmmB%2F99oTh4Ibifpsooady9%2B28JS78lozA0KDQf7zBbiPNBhoFCW7ee6pGBgshChzzHKfAJpcqOGkym6mGn6S9j0wPFmmNhj6J1TXbpTEIXuFilBAzlivdDVxXjgTMRzVzFWfS9LRN87PvthXA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM4viur85g I use this SCA tool for changing the small size oil filter on my Yaris. I have modified it so it will grip a Z386 filter which has a 65mm diameter. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-small/13035.html?cgid=SCA01130507#start=18

I have viewed a number of YouTube videos reviewing the plug in hybrid Toyota available in the USA and was very impressed with the performance. Unfortunately not yet available in Australia. Also viewed videos that detailed that Toyota hybrids have very specific requirements when performing routine maintenace e.g. doors closed when changing brake fluid etc. Still all good because Toyota is a proven leader in hybrid vehicles. Then I viewed the following video by John Cadogan. I had not realised that the hybrid vehicles sold in Australia only had a pathetic 1KW battery. I mistaking thought that the hybrid vehicle could operate on the battery pack for a longer distance i.e. short urban commute. Obviously getting confused with the plug in hybrids and full electric vehicles. John Cadogan makes a number of very valid points about wanting a hybrid vehicle and then what happens in the next few years when Toyota eventually makes the decision to make full capability plug in hybrid vehicles available in Australia. Some of the comments for this YouTube video are quite worthwhile considering and determining which ones are applicable/relevant to you.

As Tony previously mentioned, it is the flange that has changed from being a round shape to a "petal" type design. The pulley bolts onto this flange. Following YouTube video explains the water/coolant pumps in great detail. Presenter is quite animated in his voice and hand movements. 😇

I would make that transmission service an urgent HIGH priority. In 2016, I bought my used 2006 Aurion ATX, it had approx. 160,000+ km on the odometer. I did a fair bit of internet research and discovered that the transmission will eventually fail if not serviced. When I did the transmission service, I also removed the transmission pan which had a thick layer of "sediment" that you could draw in with your finger. In comparison, when I did the transmission service on my project 2008 Aurion with approx. 109,000 km odometer reading, the sediment layer was quite thin and easily wiped away. There are also magnets on the bottom of the transmission pan and a noticeable difference in the built up deposit on them. There is a bit of a debate about whether the original Toyota transmission filter [referred to as a strainer in the parts catalogue] needs to be replaced. At the time, I did replace the transmission filter with an aftermarket one but fortunately I did retain the original part [hoarder instinct]. Planning upon refitting this original filter/strainer, eventually. For my project Aurion, I retained the original filter/strainer even though I have transmission kits on hand.

Fair enough. There are certain jobs that are DDIY unless you really know what you are doing. Plenty of times that I have bought specialised/specific tools after doing a job ready for next time. Anyway, watching a few YouTube videos on replacing the water pump will give you a good appreciation of the work involved and what you paid for.. Just have to remember that the videos are heavily edited to show a task taking many hours being effortlessly done in a matter of minutes.

I have noticed that advertised prices for a car service i.e. oil change has increased from $99 to $129. Not 100% certain of current charges so I did a quick internet search. Apparently the dealer charge of $250 is not that outrageous unlike my initial reaction of an arm and leg. After looking at those prices, if I was not DIY, possible option might be https://www.airtasker.com/mechanic/oil-filter-change/brisbane/ Because I have "trust issues", I would most likely supply the oil and filter and watch them like a hawk. I am thinking that the best option for a used Camry engine from a wrecker is one that is less than 3 years old which should be before it has developed a bad case of the oil burning issue. Then do regular oil changes including a flush as a preventative measure for the oil burning issue.

My good mate John Cadogan has just poured a good dose of facts for a realistic time frame for the expected EV rollout in Australia. Looks like we can expect to see ICE vehicles on the roads for quite a few decades. Perhaps my potential future grandchildren will be having an EV as their 1st vehicle and ICE vehicles will be in the true legacy stage.

I have been considering the question posed by this thread for quite sometime. The main factor is how well the vehicle is maintained based upon the driving conditions. Following video by The Car Nut provides advice on how to make your Toyota last over 300K miles without major repairs. I had previously made retirement plans based upon my 2 Aurions lasting beyond my driving years. I recently bought a Yaris [attractive offer] so it is now the weekend vehicle thus reducing some wear and tear on my main Aurion. Future plans for 2030 currently include considering an electric vehicle. Maybe then I may [eventually] let go of my Aurions.

There are a few threads on this Forum about replacing the water pump on the Aurion / 2GR-FE engine. There is no need to remove the engine. A few bolts need to be loosened so that the water pump side of the engine can be slightly raised to provide enough wriggle room to remove the water pump. I seem to recall a repair figure of approx. $500 which allows for the parts and 2-4 labour hours. I did the replacement myself {took me a day moving slow and steady and doing a few extras] and spent some extra $$$ to get a better quality water pump Made in Japan.

That is certainly looking like the water pump. About 2 years ago, I replaced my water pump because of a bearing noise. At the time, there was no leakage but I knew from past experience [different vehicle] that it was an indicator that the bearing would fail totally and there would be a significant coolant loss.

This is another great video by The Car Nut full of very worthwhile and meaningful advice and information throughout the video. Good perspective on the vehicle manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule essentially being the bare essentials to maintain the warranty. Great advice to take a timeout and make a calm economic rationale decision about major outlays. For my particular vehicle, it may not even be worthwhile to replace the engine. Because my vehicles are mostly driven short distance, I use a shorter oil change interval. Interestingly, I just did an oil change on my Yaris yesterday. After only 3-4 months, the used engine oil looked quite dark in the drain pan. Just as The Car Nut demonstrated, there is engine oil left in the engine after doing a thorough oil drain. It just happened that after coming home Friday, I put the Yaris up onto car ramps so the oil could fully drain down into the engine pan overnight. After dropping the oil from the engine pan and also the oil filter, I refilled with a flushing oil, started and idled the engine for 10 minutes, then replaced with new decent quality engine oil and new oil filter. What I did find surprising was the "Troll comments" that The Car Nut mentioned that he has received. It does not take too much common sense to recognise that mutiple extra oil changes are much cheaper than an engine rebuild/replacement. Also quite interested to hear his feedback about Amsoil. Premium quality and premium priced engine oil may be applicable to some others but not a financially viable option for my very reduced oil change interval. For my purposes, I buy decent quality full synthetic engine oil when on special. I will also buy cheap engine oil to use as a flushing oil. Similarly, I buy OEM quality oil filters and oil filter cartridges, not the premium priced brands.

I am thinking that the most likely underlying cause is a head gasket failure. From my previous research, common causes of head gasket failure include using incorrect coolant which can damage/deteriorate the head gasket material and increased oil pressure due to overfilling the engine oil level. Another common cause is the engine overheating leading to the head gasket failure.

I am sure that most Avalon or Camry V6 owners would have a similar experience particularly on the open highway. I think that it is about having the right engine and transmission combination for your vehicle then keeping them both well maintained for optimum performance. I have noticed how the auto transmission drops down a gear or 2 to keep the V6 on the upward path of the torque curve particularly when overtaking on the highway. Anyway in my opinion it is a plus that the Avalon, Camry V6 and Aurion are under-rated. Quite happy for the Ford and Holden show off boys and now the hot hatch boys to get the attention and the speeding tickets.

Following YouTube video suggests that it could be an issue with the fuel pump or fuel filter. However, if your vehicle has only done 120K kms, then I would be a bit skeptical. I would start with checking the battery, cleaning/replacing the air filter. Something else to check is the Mass Air Flow {MAF} sensor and clean/replace. This is another YouTube video worth the time to view. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz7uhYKzvEo

I kept thinking about magnetic drain plug tool and some other options. One thought was to insert some round 12mm magnets into a 14mm socket. Oil drain plug on my Aurion and now also the Yaris both use a 14mm socket. I had previously bought a 16mm spark plug socket so that could be an option. I had forgotten about the 14mm size magnetic spark plug. Ended up buying this one on eBay at a decent price of $8.59 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/385017134102 I then went the next step and bought some magnetic oil drain plugs from Australian eBay sellers. One is aluminum $9.95 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271794421900 and the other one is stainless steel $17.99 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313993681898 I will need some more drain plug washers but the best deal was with a China seller 40 washers for $10.78 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154176357886 Best eBay deal from an Australian seller is 20 for $13.45 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/374174421657?hash=item571e889299:g:f4wAAOSwu89izUdA

I do not spend too much time cleaning my car. Therefore, I am least likely to buy a black or a dark colour car which is going to require lots of washing and cleaning to keep looking presentable. Have a read of this article. White seems to be a practical choice for those going 4wd and off road. https://www.4wdingaustralia.com/4x4/what-colour-4wd-is-best/ My personal choices in the Prado range would be either a silver pearl or a wildfire {red} if you want your vehicle to make a statement to be very much different to white or black.

Following YouTube video should be relevant to your issue. In another YouTube video, the presenter checked the compression of each cylinder. In this thread, it ended up being the head gasket. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2009-corolla-with-engine-misfiring-codes-p0300-p0301-p0302.1128617/page-2

These very educational videos were also a good incentive for me to learn how to translate a web page using Google Chrome. https://www.wikihow.com/Translate-a-Web-Page

18 minute mark on that sludge video caught my attention as I have wanted some extra filtration particularly for used engine oil and ATF. Ended up buying these on eBay so should be able to see how much sludge particles are in the used engine oil. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324821485681?var=513826559751

That would be a very handy tool. Too often I have dropped the drain plug into the oil drain pan or got a lot of oil over my hands or gloves. Instead of buying that specific tool on eBay from China, I ended up buying this set from an Australian seller. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384260380183?hash=item5977b41617:g:D5cAAOSwOn5g66Ys&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwJ5xuD9x5WTfasKEwx7i%2BePmWtW77CbFm3GRn1Aqr891Nv4Yx2v0H2Riz4mGpQ28dFK5p5q4jhqg2K0GCrhCZ4ECHZ0y5C7K6CDRSWhSRLYE8%2FT7aIq66ZeSFBhaMKxPCsznz41MqYmI8VRk%2Bq5iFU1MMtUaGmctCGjBXpVSTU5UyoEG1blgDKHfXWkprvb8N%2BhsQx9u3OtDlAL8jY%2FTWC4WV4sHMnFlnchJlBoOb7Lms5sDpVXExo0s3f%2BrAnDU9g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_ikkIHDYA Another option would have been just the flexible pickup torch. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/115249777358

Another one of my speculative theories has "bit the dust". It would have been many months ago that I deflated the tyres and put at least 100ml of 303 Protectorant inside each tyre. Certainly been a few months since I have checked the tyre pressures previously set at 40 psi. Yesterday, the tyre pressure was 32 psi after refilling the fuel tank so pumped back up to 40psi. Looks like tyre pressure reduces by 1 psi each week. When we get some warmer weather and some motivation, I will give the tyres another full treatment both exterior and interior and do better record keeping. Then I will retest the tyre pressures after 4 weeks. Not really expecting any worthwhile results except to confirm that you would be better off saving the $$$ and buy a new tyre.

Definitely a good idea to replace the front windscreen if is not up to OEM standard. Hopefully you will have some warm weather so you can leave the car out in the sunshine. Any moisture that condenses on the glass overnight can be wiped off in the morning. I have recently used tissues/toilet paper for this purpose.

Initially I was thinking of foam filler but then realised that it would be so messy and then difficult to remove. Next thought was this foam tape available at Bunnings. https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-150-x-10mm-x-1-8m-adhesive-foam-roll_p4000003?store=8152&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_te75_jJ-AIVUpVLBR1ESwrwEAQYBSABEgL37_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is where I use RedBook to compare the used car pricing guides and standard equipment between the models. When new, there was a $4000 price difference. Personally, I would consider paying the extra (but not too much) to have the better equipped model. extrahttps://www.redbook.com.au/cars/results?q=((Make%3D[Toyota]%26Model%3D[Camry])%26YearRange%3Drange[2008..2008]) https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/results?q=((Make%3D[Toyota]%26Model%3D[Camry])%26YearRange%3Drange[2008..2008])