campbeam

Getting towards 2 years ago that I bought both of those under engine splash guards plus some other odds and ends. I probably paid about $20 at the time but would expect to pay $20 each now.

There is a procedure for changing the ATF in the U660E transmission fitted to the Aurion and other Toyota models. It is available on a few threads in this Forum. Also attached is a Technical Service Bulletin [TSB] presumably sourced from Toyota USA to add an extra 200ml of ATF after following the refill procedure. You have an interesting solution for your vehicle with vibration due to low ATF level. My past experience with low ATF level for my Oct.2006 Aurion ATX has been rough gear shifts and the vehicle not remaining stationary when stopped on a slight incline. This was years ago before re-read the procedure and did it correctly. I have also done the quick workaround method of draining the ATF and precisely measuring using a few plastic bottles to replace the equivalent volume +25-50ml without any issue. This assumes that the transmission does not have any leaks. There should be no idle play in the steering wheel. Generally, this would indicate wear in the steering rack or the tie rod ends. I do periodically grease the intermediate steering shaft u-joint. There is a thread on this Forum about this issue and one solution has been to replace the special bolts sourced from a Toyota dealership. Best to check the power steering fluid level. Something that I do [annually] is to use a hand pump to empty the fluid in the reservoir, then replace.

Best to check If the headlights are HID, its the D4S bulb your after, non HID bulb id the H11, two very different bulbs. My ATX Aurion has H11 bulbs which I finally upgraded to the STEDI brand LED bulbs which are worth buying. Have a look at this thread which does mention these D4S bulbs. If you want to upgrade the earth then have a look at this YouTube video. Something I have not yet done.

Easter is coming so may have to be ready for any unplanned day trips. However I want to be staying home and finishing off any outstanding items on my checklist for getting my Aurion ready for a road trip after Easter. Have to find some fuel injector cleaner, glass cleaner etc during May. Headlights are also overdue for a clean.

This is a timely reminder. It has been a while since I have added some fuel injector cleaner especially as I do a lot of short distance driving and use 91 ULP. Planning a road trip after Easter so will hopefully get some decent fuel economy figures unless my self-sabotaging lead foot wants to have some safe fun on the open highways.

Sounds like we have similar tyre requirements where I am looking for a quality touring type tyre and my main emphasis is upon braking and wet handling. The following are on my short list for ready reference: Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 Continental UltraContact 6 Michelin Primacy 4 [New Generation 2018/9] Depending upon price and availability, I would most likely prefer the Michelin.

Always learning and re-learning. Following video by John C has aroused my suspicious nature about the quality of Chinese branded vehicles now being imported in Australia in greater numbers. This time it is the dreaded rust issue which is something that I do not greatly consider for my Toyota being driven on sealed roads. Maybe next time that I am at SuperCheap, AutoBarn or Repco etc I should look for a spray can of some zinc fortified undercoat paint as a preventative measure.

Richard, When was the transmission fluid last changed?

Have a look at the top side of the brake pedal and locate the brake light switch. Most likely the rubber stopper on the brake pedal had deteriorated and broken/missing. This would explain why the brake lights are staying on.

In my case, there was no out of pocket charges. Yes, very reassuring that Toyota Australia [in this case] is still replacing the part with no time limit cutoff e.g. 10 years It is also a solid example of why to stay with Toyota. I hear and read too many stories of well established Australian Consumer Law being tested and challenged by the actions of deliberately denying reasonable valid warranty claims. Precisely why I will not buy certain brands especially those from certain Corporate cultures. A 7 or 10 year warranty is a great marketing tool to get the sale but will it be honoured. Past and current actions are reliable indicators of future actions [in my opinion]. Choose wisely.

Following YouTube video was posted 5 months ago by Nunawading Toyota located in Melbourne Australia. This video certainly provides proof of what can happen if you presumably only top up the oil instead of regular oil changes. Consider that this has happened over a 3 year period and 65,000 km. Presumably the purchaser did not look at the inside of the oil filler cap. Definite indicator that servicing did not happen. 6 services @ $220 = $1320 so very much cheaper than an engine replacement.

The supplied video is very helpful. What appears to be happening is that the overflow bottle is being pressurised resulting in the coolant coming out of the overflow pipe. I particularly noticed is that when you removed the radiator cap, there was no out pouring of coolant. Therefore, I am thinking the worst case scenario of a head gasket issue. However, I would remove the cap on the overflow bottle and check for any blockages in the cap and pipes connected on the inside of the cap. Next, I would also remove the radiator cap [engine not running] and top up with coolant. Idle engine for a few minutes and observe. I would expect the coolant to rise and overflow without any bubbles. Hopefully this will confirm the need for a pressure test of the cooling system, or not.

I would guess that it is front passenger side control arm. Similarly we had a 1998 Toyota Camry owned since new. It would have been 2018 or so that a RWC was required to transfer registration within the family. RWC inspector had said that the vehicle was in great condition overall for its age but had failed because of the front control arm bushes and also worn bushes for the rear sway bar. I checked and there was definite movement in the front suspension due to these bushes being definitely broken. I replaced both control arms [complete assemblies; non-genuine] and fixed the rear sway bar bushes. Cost of parts was <$200. A few years later, I found out after the event this Camry was sold due to an oil leak. Not happy at the time but this son got himself a used BMW which he prefers and it is now his problem to keep it running. There is a fair bit of time and effort involved and a wheel alignment would also be required. $1300 estimate for this repair appears high so further details should be requested. "Nothing seriously wrong" is a pass mark for today. Remember your vehicle is now 20 years old Previous partner was advised by her proven trustworthy mechanic to expect more repairs after 12 months for her later model Toyota Corona. That advice and previous rust repairs is what prompted us to trade in that vehicle on a demonstrator new vehicle. End of the day, it is your decision. Choose wisely.

With servicing on time, I would expect nothing serious or expensive with the drive train i.e. engine and transmission. Which of the following major parts are still original or have been replaced. If so, when? : 1. Struts - front and rear 2. Brake rotors - front and rear 3. Alternator 4. Starter motor 5. Radiator Essentially with older vehicles, it is a case of driving them with regular maintenance until there is an uneconomical repair bill.

Good action to have topped up the engine oil. Your best reference for the engine oil specification is your owners manual [i.e. vehicle manufacturer]. Alternative source is the lubrication guide from engine oil manufacturers. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/ What is very important is the oil change interval. Compared to engine repairs, oil is cheap. "Old school" recommendation is an oil change interval based upon 5000 kms or 6 months. There are quite a number of posts on this Forum supporting this "Old school" recommendation. Quite simply, if you want to avoid expensive engine repairs, use a quality known brand engine oil with a suitable oil viscosity for your engine and have regular oil change intervals.

Only when there is a leak or oil seepage from the oil cooler lines will they be replaced by Toyota Australia. As highlighted by The Car Nut in his YouTube video, these rubber oil cooler lines deteriorate with age become hard and rupture. Essentially they are a ticking time bomb and will eventually fail. In my case, I got very very lucky with oil seepage under pressure rather than a leak or line rupture. My warning was an oil burning smell and some oil smoke coming from the bonnet. Others on the internet have reported the line failing while driving on the highway and the warning was the low oil pressure light displaying. Only option was to pull over to the side immediately, turn off the engine and then have the vehicle towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. In most cases, there was no detectable engine damage as the engine was turned off in time. Those that ignored the oil warning light did so at their own expense. Unfortunately, my stand by Aurion has the rubber oil cooler lines which will need to be replaced following registration and before any highway driving. There is no current recall or extended warranty for the rear VVTi line which has the rubber mid-section. The front VVTi line is full metal so no problem. I understand that back in 2008-09 there was a limited Toyota Service Bulletin [TSB] and a kit was made available to dealers to replace that rubber mid-section with an upgraded quality rubber. If so, there would be a record and maybe even a sticker placed on the driver's door opening of the chassis adjacent to the dashboard. Later manufactured vehicles have the full metal rear VVTi line. This is the case for my standby Aurion manufactured December 2008. I anticipate that only if/when the upgraded rubber mid-section hose that was replaced under this previous TSB would Toyota Australia replace this rear VVTi line with a full metal version at their expense. Any vehicle still with this original rubber mid-section in the rear VVTi line will eventually need to have the full metal line and it will be at the owner's expense. This is exactly what I had to do. Amazing how much oil flows down the side of the engine at idle just from an undetectable pinhole leak. Very fortunately, I had previously done my research on this known issue and had the parts on hand. It was a very frustrating weekend spent replacing that rear VVTi line. In conclusion, please call Toyota Australia Customer Service on 1800 869 682 to confirm which oil lines will be covered.

In the past, I have re-used the o-rings and had no leakage issues. Recently, I have replaced the o-ring approx. every 2nd oil change. I do not know if it is necessary but I do lubricate the o-ring with some new engine oil. Also the oil filter housing is hand tightened all the way then I back it off slightly about a 1/4 turn. Sometimes it takes a few attempts to get it properly threaded.

I have been doing many many interim checks of the oil filter cartridge to see how much oil sludge particles have been collected in the filter element. Only a small amount of oil leaks out say 100-150ml. In comparison, much more oil can remain in the filter cartridge housing. The top of the oil filter cartridge housing is slightly above the top of the engine oil pan. Most of the engine oil say 5.5Litres is drained from the oil pan when the sump plug is removed.

I can recommend STEDI LED headlight globes. https://www.stedi.com.au/upgrades/toyota/landcruiser/90-series-prado/1999

"Identical issue" is a bit imprecise, particularly for myself. Can you describe in detail the issue that you are encountering. Does the issue still continue after you have changed the temperature settings from coldest to warm to hot? When was the last time that the cabin air filter was cleaned or replaced? Are all of the controls for the air-conditioning control module working?

That repair quote is absurd particularly for the electric pump motor. You should find your way to a wreckers. 40 series Aurion or Camry will be suitable. The wiper fluid bottle is hidden away so will take some time to access. Best to check the fuse box first, to confirm/eliminate it is not just a blown fuse. Also check the wiring and electrical connector.

Absolutely appreciate your "OCD", attention to detail. Being contrarian, the still golden tinge after 9K is more testament to the internal cleanliness of the engine due to using a quality oil filter, brand name engine oil and an appropriate oil change interval. In contrast, I have had the engine oil turn a black colour after only 1K due using Shell Ultra which has a high detergent additive reducing some of the accumulated oil sludge due to a dubious service history before my ownership. I took note of the condition of the oil filter cartridge, particularly the absence of oil sludge particles. This post has reminded me that I was planning to remove the front valve cover to assist with desludging my engine codenamed "Sludgy". A bit of tough luck that the battery post leaked. Good point about the tin coating on the terminal clamps. I recently had a fully discharged battery but the indicator was still green. I gave the battery a gentle shake and the indicator changed to clear. Back to green after being recharged. Quite a few years ago, I bought replacement OEM front and rear rotors and have yet to fit them. I am gentle on the brakes and expect that I will have to wear out the current pads and another replacement set of front and rear brake pads then maybe I will have to replace the rotors. It has been a while since I checked the brake pads and rotors so should add that to the To Do list for this holiday period.

Suggest that you try the wreckers and mention the tyre and rim size for your vehicle. Girlfriend's 2012 Honda Civic has a space saver as the spare wheel. I mention this because multiple vehicle makes may have what you are after. Also a reminder to all to check the tyre pressure particularly of the spare wheel.

Instead of a recall, Toyota Australia provides an extended warranty for this issue when this oil cooler line leaks. I have previously researched this so if one of these rubber hoses ruptures and the oil warning light displays pull over immediately and call a tow truck to take your vehicle to the nearest Toyota dealer. In March 2022 after 15 years and 237.000 kms, this happened the next day after I had arrived at Wagga Wagga rather than on the Newell highway. Very fortunately it was only a leak rather than a rupture so no damage to the engine. Phoned Toyota Australia Customer Service 1800 869 682 who gave me a warranty claim number and details of the local dealership Thomas Bros Toyota Phone: (02) 6926 0500 Although my Aurion was still driveable, towing was arranged by the dealership. Again very fortunate circumstances in that this large size dealership did have the parts on hand and managed to prioritise the repair so it was done in days instead of weeks. Big learning from this is to know or be able to access the contact number for Toyota Australia and Toyota dealerships. My unregistered standby Aurion has these rubber oil cooler lines which will be replaced after it is registered and before any road trip.

As per your initial post, you are feeling vibration through the steering wheel when you apply the BRAKES. Have your mechanics checked the braking system and the tyres? Good starting point would be check the brake rotors and brake pads for uneven wear.