campbeam

Good thinking. I am sure that there are buyers seeking the Camry RZ in preference to the standard Camry. Let us know how things go with the sale after it is all completed. Interested to know whether the used car market is still in high demand.

Welcome from Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Already noticed your 1st contribution post to this Forum which was spot on. I spent a few years looking at posts on the USA Forum before joining this Forum.

After a good nights sleep, I now recall reading [many years ago] about a mechanics trick which was more related to removing drive shafts from the rear differential. Retaining bolts would be loosened then the vehicle taken for a drive around the block. Makes sense that the movement of the suspension is helping to loosen the stuck parts. I have never done this myself so just offered as further food for thought.

Got me thinking some more. I also happen to have an impact screwdriver set in my tool kit which I have not previously thought to apply to a stuck axle scenario.

Just a suggestion, based upon what I have done in the past. Thread back on retaining nut so that it is flush with the end of the axle. Then give it a few "gentle" whacks with a decent persuader which in my case is usually a 4-7 lb short handle sledge hammer. Main concern is not to damage the retaining nut and the threads on the axle. If you have got some brake fluid then use it as lubricating penetrator giving it a few minutes to work [cup of coffee/tea time] before giving the axle a few "love taps". It should take a few repeats and take your time resisting the urge to give it a great big thump. I had not previously thought about using this tool shown in the following video.

Never owned a RAV 4 so have no direct experience. However, about a year ago, I replaced the rear wheel bearing hub assembly[passenger side] on my 2006 Aurion which did come off after being persuaded with a sledge hammer. No great amount of corrosion encountered as in this YouTube video. For those that are more active on this Forum, you would have previously seen posts about removing stuck oxygen sensors and the mechanics trick of using brake fluid as a rust penetrator. It works much more effectively than RP-7 and WD-40.

This YouTube video appeared in my feed a few weeks ago. Pays to at least listen to advice based upon experience then make your own decision to suit your circumstances. Quite notable that this automotive engineer has a Lexus and mentions others in his field of expertise.

I have to agree that it is involved but maybe not as much as the water pump replacement. I ended up removing the radiator shroud to have the space to maneuver out the existing alternator and to get to an additional retaining bolt that is hidden away. Also I bought a very decent quality alternator which came with a 3-5 year warranty from an established eBay seller. If I was looking for another alternator, I would be considering this ebay listing as a starting benchmark. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404500266840?fits=Model%3AAurion|Make%3AToyota&itmmeta=01HR49ECG9RP7SQB7WZ46K6T5G&hash=item5e2e183f58:g:Hw4AAOSw7URlCWcL:sc:AU_Regular!4118!AU!-1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8J03ymyAAiJoMfLc%2FIQsl0rs%2Bpnd0aMfqCZ%2BRwUE%2BH3Cmx0ZTc9ysCQJwWajTPevCclyQehbq1FuQSukCLaK7CxK8bkrdJ82vd4zqIbqMb%2BWFZu4eccc4Fb9y1UNdyRTJP0zsDifDGsqfPnzWWj8C1I%2FKVMz9Dv8uWRBzjCe4Gf3RJr13S%2F2mlSS3MqiU4PGA%2Bax1DRPY0uZq7UWvoXYeEnHIgdyNpEPGZA0Ll67d3iX5Aa5YVFvA82pEIwTF7NAWZ4OQg2W4w%2Bx4gAxqoel4H%2Fp139KhGbqNFJFU7v0QHMdGn2tzbV4Mq0XGqs43NRP4w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5rIuYnBYw

Based solely upon a past experience with this similar issue, throttle body and the Idle Air Control valve need to be cleaned. Have a look at a few YouTube videos and they will show what you need to do.

Definitely buy genuine DENSO brand sensors. Suggest that you contact this eBay seller and provide your VIN number. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305305333190?itmmeta=01HQT8VV06JMGT2N6HEZ78N5W7&hash=item47159dadc6:g:s1MAAOSwkZtkkmmn:sc:AU_Regular!4118!AU!-1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8IK7lSYv65zobD1nUWriBvpuwIHt%2FmNClNjNilQswJM6tLvTJt1ZiKkGzkKqODk%2BUltV8e9EaSD%2F3gkG1RCIDKSdbMi7kcY4ehOAnLo1rpXggd9iyaCLIsAXkef1RhZCWSriAyhQsSB7btO4cv%2BoIwOqjxVMc0lTXZYJYc6fzTR6CGi3KCIl2mJa8dDmGIpzJzafxzJEqRrXZ9xXVZgrD2YA%2BHPQCEdk7lM5fGjXXTaX%2FuEtCTj%2Bzn5iutUT%2BDxibuEFUAlTQih3%2BNwNZJls3FGzFW%2FukJ6yFQwR7SA0N1uZQWVOuZtd3KUkYXIWQdZ%2FHg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6iw78i-Yw

I am totally guessing that his "chicken dance" may have involved a reboot of the immobilizer system to re-establish communication between the keys and the vehicle system. In the workshop manual, there is a section for this system. The receiver unit [for the door locks] is located somewhere around the rear of the vehicle on the driver passenger/boot area.

I will be interested to hear how things go with the engine removal. Something that is beyond my DIY capabilities and willingness in my elderly years. My main concern would be disconnecting all of the wiring and not missing anything. Sure that there will be lots of learnings with tips and tricks along the way.

Quite a few years ago, I got a spare ignition key cut then the locksmith came out to my Aurion and did the process to program the key. I was totally confused with all of the steps that he did and no way that I can recall what he did. I am sure that he even opened and closed the boot a few times as well as the ignition. Definitely a "chicken dance". Worthwhile to have a spare key otherwise you are in a world of financial pain.

Your best reference is your owners manual. Next source of information is the Lube guide. Penrite Lube Guide has a number of engine oil alternatives which include 10W-40. https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector?by=Quick Search#/recommendations

I have no experience so not going to comment. However, I did go and view a YouTube video by Eric the Car Guy. It did not work for his test vehicle. You may find this YouTube video of some interest with some real before and after data of a commercial catalytic convertor cleaner product.

I ordered a set of the pre-cat and post-cat sensors from an eBay seller located in Brisbane, QLD on 31st January and got delivery 1st February. 3 of these sensors were manufactured in Japan. As advertised, one of the post cat sensors was manufactured in the USA and branded DENSO First Fit. I also located previously purchased pre-cat [air-fuel] sensors that were also branded DENSO First Fit. These were the ones that I fitted plus both of the post-cat sensors. The replaced sensors have been retained and will get a good clean, eventually.

I have previously removed the air intake plenum when replacing the spark plugs but did not replace those plenum gaskets as they appeared to be in good condition etc. Now 50,000 kms and a few years later, I have been trying to resolve an engine misfire and P0420 code. My 2006 Aurion now has an odometer of 258,000 kms. After viewing a YouTube video about the P0420 error code, the recommendation was to replace these gaskets on the plastic air intake and to also check for any minor cracks. The gaskets compress over time and no longer seal resulting in vacuum leak and the error code. Actually I confirmed this when I reversed the existing plenum gaskets and temporarily got the P0430 code while the P0420 code still persisted. Height on the new plenum gaskets were measured at 7mm using both a micronometer and vernier calipers. Existing gaskets measured at 5.5mm except for one gasket which only measured 5mm in a section. Following photos show the difference between the old and new gaskets when fitted. Overall, worthwhile to replace these plenum gaskets when replacing the spark plugs.

Interesting timing for your post because I had recently viewed this YouTube video. I then did some follow up on other car forums. One post suggested pre-selling the tyres then replace with the preferred tyres suitable for his driving requirements. Perhaps in the meantime, discuss your requirements with local tyre shops and get a few recommendations for use on dirt roads etc.

Looks like Tony has not seen your post or is super busy working all hours including on call weekend. Knowing or appreciating Tony's meticulous procedural approach, I fully expect that there has been no noticeable difference between a full flush or a pain drain with gear changes being silky smooth. I would suggest starting with a pan drain and compare the colour of the drained ATF will new ATF. If a dark colour, then consider a full flush or alternatively do a pan drain and refill and a drive around the block to mix and circulate the ATF. Next step is to do another pan drain and fill. A full flush will replace all of the ATF so going to be good for another 70,000 kms. The pan drain and refill method should be good for 1-2 years, as a general rule.

My first thought would be to start with checking the air filter and determine whether it needs a cleaning or replacement. Next thoughts are to check/clean the MAF [mass airflow sensor] throttle body and the IAC [idle air control] valve. This YouTube video may be of some assistance.

As a general recommendation, use a quality known brand engine oil and a full synthetic oil of the recommended viscosity for your engine. I usually buy whatever is on special so it is mainly Penrite, Nulon and Gulf Western which are all Australian companies. I can recommend Shell Ultra which has given me excellent results with combating oil sludge build up. Anecdotal evidence from many different internet sources is regularly validating the old school approach of regular oil and filter changes every 5,000 kms or 6 months. Depending upon your engine condition, driving conditions etc. with a good quality synthetic oil consider extending to 7.500 kms. Definitely change your oil before it becomes a black colour. Genuine oil filters are the safest option. However, I am using cheaper [supposedly] OEM filters recommended to be changed every 5,000 kms.

The 2017 Camry Altise is fitted with 16" wheels, according to Redbook. I do not know about clearance for the brake calipers. If the brake calipers are the same across all 2017 Camry models, then you should be okay. Best to go to a tyre shop or wreckers and confirm that a 16" wheel will fit. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2017-toyota-camry-altise-auto/SPOT-ITM-456798?Cr=11

This YouTube video appeared and after viewing I have ordered 3 of the intake plenum gaskets. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275736040954?epid=28048759897&hash=item40332615fa:g:eLgAAOSwTDRhHGb6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NFsnYDfH6g6tlLLuEGpuFECCcx%2F%2F91%2Bune362W1spgGPwzW%2F9lsQav7v0WTG%2FJylQsl4q1tWaxQz4I%2BHGQA01Z6C4mTNgsIty7pdXOP7%2BpZ1DQDeVS7E%2Bw7%2B3g3RjthaUOYvwS0%2BIGDIT2Z1z36VF7zbyACSujKik%2BfKun5J7QmOmSvNyPht0RF2hK3jAmu9A2dVmlkG7pS4Y3wd%2BcbwfaqCwtOztmGpA54ukn6%2FVwciPEiaw5G8dFR%2Ff1jsVZHahBgBA6Ce7fyURCAT7wzte4IIk5E7yUj1C0uRtSkUn71|tkp%3ABk9SR4iVyNOwYw

What is the odometer reading? You can try cleaning the downstream O2 sensor [B1S2]. This worked for me years ago. A few YouTube videos recommend that it is more economical to replace this O2 sensor especially if you are not DIY. Good idea to also clean the MAF sensor and the throttle body. Now the P0420 code has reappeared on my vehicle together with a slight misfire at idle. So been busy for the last few weeks trying to resolve this specific issue particularly that misfire. At this stage, the P0420 code is re-appearing within 20 kms of driving which is obviously not right. I will soon find out this coming weekend whether I have finally got the right fix.

I have replaced the headlight bulbs on my Aurion quite a few times. Yes, the passenger side is more difficult. Depending upon the size of your battery either move it move it sideways or totally remove it for more working space. The following YouTube video provides some useful tips. Main thing is to remember the positioning of the locking tabs and to push in slightly so that all of the tabs engage in the headlight housing.