ZZT86

It's a timely reminder about oil & prolonging the life of the engine, obviously clean oil matters, always has, always will. For a GTR motor with twin turbos that has the potential to cook oil, yeah I would change it pretty often. For a 2GR-FE that gets driven sedately but normally, ie: not short trips, then I would have thought extending the OCI to 5-7.5K kms would be just fine.

You mentioned Akebono the other day & I've just come across them on a Lexus forum, they would be these https://akebonobrakes.mypartfinder.com/ Part # ACT1222A or ASP1222A for V6 Camry or Lexus ES350. I'm wondering if they're anything like the Forza pads I use on my Hachi. They're available for the Aurion but the lead time atm if like beyond a year ! The Akebonos might be worth a try 👍

@Tony Prodigy I'm amazed that you've gone through pads so regularly - how many kms has she covered during each swap ? I know that I personally do a lot of fwy kms on my car which helps with longevity but I'd be very surprised if my car would need pads so often. Usually in a much lighter Celica the OEM pads will easily do 200K kms before thinking about a swap & it's usually the rears first. My Aurion is nearing 90K kms & everything is still factory OEM.

There's something therapeutic about watching someone else work on an interesting subject like car detailing, a professional job Tony, nice 👍

Initial thoughts on my purchase of 4 x Bridgestone Potenza Sport tyres 225/45/18 95Y - pleasantly surprised. A touch noisier than Michelin Pilot Sport 4 but comfy as it absorbs bumps well - yep new tyres. Although early days & all based on dry weather driving so far it's all good news really. I notice lots more grip just in the braking alone as I touch the brake pedal, quicker change of steering/direction, more accurate there and the sidewall bead offers up more wheel protection compared to the PS4 which had none. I'm expecting awesome performance/braking in the wet too when that comes but reckon Bridgestone have kicked Michelins arsse to the moon - it's a better tyre all round & almost $400 cheaper all up ! The same goes for the S007A on my Hachi Rocku I got 1.5 years ago that's hardly been used, another awesome tyre - the Bridgestone glory days are back. Michelin have shot themselves completely buy overpricing their tyres & making them unobtainable - their bad. Will report back with more soon 👍 👍

TyrePlus quoting $337.5 a tyre for PS5 225/45/18 inc w/a - so $1350 for a set of 4 ! Primacy are essentially the same price. It's an uncommon odd size and as such they sting you for cost, this what I'm told. I thought about the Turanza T005 but they're basically the same price as the Potenza Sport or RE003 & I prefer best grip so I'm going to try the Sport & see how it goes. It's a highly rated tyre so apart from a little road noise, which I'm expecting to be similar to the PS5, I should be pretty happy.

Have bitten the bullet & given Michelin PS4's or 5's the "bird" due to high pricing. I'm getting something which compares very favourably from Japans own - the Bridgestone Potenza Sport in the 225/45/18 size. I'm expecting to be impressed, I'll report back in a week or so 😉

^ ^ Wow ! Counterfeit = Concertinaed after a few thousand kms & potentially a reco motor.

^ ^ ^ This is typical Toyota recommendation - pan drain & fill & life is good. Min 50K kms, max 100K kms. Certainly easier to do, 2.6L out of 6.5L is 40% of the fluid. If done every 50K kms then the tranny should be happy for a very long life. Having said that my old Camry had regular ATM fluid changes (flushes from memory) & the tranny behaved beautifully especially when hot. Food for thought. Need to do mine asap as time is ticking & the temp isn't on my side - Melb crappy weather 😐

Forgot to mention - I did the AMD stress test, actually I tried both sets of fingers & I couldn't get it to buckle, even from the sides it hardly changes shape. She's a tough little critter, couldn't believe how strong they were.

I'm guessing the engine would be fine but this is not good practice. Also assuming it's a company vehicle which typically doesn't get properly looked after cos $$. Get mechanic to inspect with a remote camera through valve cover for evidence of sludge, if yes pull oil filter & inspect that. If yes pull oil sump & check how bad. It should be fine if only this one time & a full synth oil was used. Confirm what sort of driving was mainly done & if if you suspect lots of short trips then buyer beware ! Good luck.

I replaced the oil & oil filter early today mostly to gauge the new 04152-YZZA1 filters performance & I can report that you all should fear not, for these things are as good as the part it replaced. Filter intact & in perfect order, firm & sturdy, not concertinaed as in the above video. A little fury but maybe because of close up photo shot. Filter has 4,758kms on it in just over 3 months. Fresh oil is a great engine tonic 😉

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332726562109 Ok it's for a GSV50R but you get the picture . . . . this retailer I can vouch for. Also every now & again eBay have a good discount going for a pair so becomes a good deal like around $500 for 4 x KYB struts which make the oem struts iirc. KYB are an excellent product, just make sure you also replace the strut top mounts preferably with genuine parts as they fit better. Lower control arms can be removed & the bushes replaced by either yourself or a mechanic with a hydraulic shop press. Whilst you're under check all bushes & replace as required. Make sure sway links are good otherwise replace those also.

My still current PS4 is the 225/45/18 size which I got mid 2020 for $1100 inc wheel alignment which at the time I thought was already expensive. At todays prices $1400 is just taking the ***** & the dealers agree that Michelin have gone mad. It doesn't help that the above size is not common & as such charge more. If it were 40 profile they would be about $400 cheaper a set all up ! Really annoying 😠

Michelin are currently a complete & utter ripoff, they're screwing the consumer because they can. Having very low to non existent stock availability isn't helping anyone's cause. I want PS4's for my car but not @ $1,400 ! Will be looking elsewhere in the coming months. Th BS are looking the goods atm.

Came across this by accident but so happy I did just to see it all get teared down & for all the comments - note the rear bank spark plug covered by a bracket that goes right over the top of it :| Essentially another neglected motor, looks great considering, would guess it's a 1st gen 2GR motor. As soon as you see a weep from the water pump - REPLACE IT or else ! Enjoy 🙂

Go to dealer & buy it.

Like some modern cars of today, when the DRL & turn signal are 1 unit, as soon as you flick the indicator stalk left or right the DRL switches off to clearly announce the indicator lamp. Once the indicator stalk it flicked off the DRL should turn back on.

How timely, I did this exact same procedure the other day when it was hot here in Melbourne, which made bleeding quicker. I too also accessed the block taps but couldn't see the front one & just ignored it as I got most from the rad tap (4.75L) & then the balance (2.5L) from the rear block tap. I connected a hose to both before opening the tap for extra cleanliness. Not flushing using tap water makes sense (on a newish car at least) as the water isn't pure like the premixed stuff in the Toyota SLLC bottle of which I purchased 2 (10L) for about $70 from my local dealer. If tap water is used then some is likely to remain in the system & eventually degrade the overall quality of the coolant & potentially cause premature seal & bearing failure, something we're all trying to avoid in a cramped 3.5L V6 FWD setup. Some would call it overkill, I'm just taking extra precautions. Some additional notes I made: 1: open bleeder 1 - 1.25 turns max otherwise air may get in 2: bleeder hose not immersed into overflow coolant funnel otherwise will suck back in 3: install cable tie to base of bleeder hose to prevent leak & falling off 4: make sure funnel rad-cap tight fit otherwise will leak (had to tighten mine) 5: bleed process took 13minutes in 30+degree heat in garage before steady flow from bleeder hose 6: let engine idle a further 15minutes for coolant flow to normalise & little to no air/bubbles from overflow funnel 7: next time use both block taps to drain 8: fill coolant to crease on funnel plenty otherwise risk overflow during bleeding process & engine running @ 2500rpm After turning engine off I extracted excess coolant from funnel, removed the funnel & bleeder cap from radiator neck, filled to top then closed her off with factory cap. Filled cars overflow bottle to full & let the engine cool overnight. In morning when cold refilled overflow bottle to full as engine cool down process will suck some back in, lightly washed engine bay of coolant & dirt & dried it before starting. I checked the coolant level was full after a few drive cycles to make sure it was all perfect, car runs beaut 🙂 A painless process all made possible due to the great AMD aka the Car Care Nut, our greatful & dedicated friend from the Toyota world 🙂

It's amazing the engine is still ticking over considering the lack of oil changes, some engines would have self grenaded by then. Only 3 years old, just plain stupidity & false economy.

Cheers, Ash, I will re-use the o-rings & monitor it.

Ask to borrow one for a few hours & take it for a spin in your neck of the woods. You will soon find out if you like it or not.

ah, the ocd wiper 😆 Thing is you're right, until that wiper becomes wet the glass is going to get marred. I'm actually going to test removing light scratches/marring on the Aurion as well as heavy water marks on my ensuite glass with a product I already have, CeriGlass, but this time with a proper glass cutting pad on my RO machine. I'll report back once done 👍

Awesome 👍 So for the 1st time in my life I'll be taking an oil filter out without draining the sump oil @ about 2K kms to inspect it just because the part # changed otherwise virtually identical to the old #. The filter is identical to Tony's above so I'm expecting no surprises. Ash, do you reuse the whole enchilada including the supposed "one time use" only o-ring's?

Sparesbox & Amazon have these @ $16.95ea retail minus 20% discount atm, surely they're the genuine Denso item which seems like a decent price to me. I used to pay about that much years ago for my celica & they too were iridium plugs. Reckon I'll grab a set now despite only having 82K kms on oem & just throw them into stock until they're needed.