ZZT86

Amen to that 👍 I love AMD, he's so knowledgeable & so willing to spread the good word around on anything concerning brand T. He puts a smile on my face everytime. 😀

Noticed a few Mark3 Avalon Grandes for sale recently - oh if I only had plenty $$$ & space. Then again if I had $$ & space I'd get an R32GTR in pristine condition & a lovely Lexus LS for a daily or sweet 5 series Bimma. I also wouldn't mind a Porsche Boxster but now I'm getting carried away into dreamland 😐

You might need to look to the Asian markets online.

Poor 1MZ appears to have been mistreated - looks like a cappuccino machine 😐 Looks like too much condensation/fuel dilution accumulated from too many shorts trips on a cold engine.

Personally I have never considered buying a Korean car since their onslaught into the motoring domain because of their lack of engineering prowess, far less a Chinese car. That will probably never happen in my lifetime. Just my 2c worth.

Ingenious design the D4S, but it's not all "rainbows & butterflies" . . . . . I know the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) in these are ridiculously noisy, made worse with a loud "cricket" racket if you ever encounter varying grades or mixes of fuel such as E10. I and most BR86 owners know this as it too has the D4S system, nice but noisy. "May the lord bless you & keep you & you have a wonderful day" 😀

As I've said many times before, Hyundai/Kia have a long way to go in the engineering department, their engines are ordinary, rough & inefficient. My 1.55 tonne 3.5L V6 Aurion is almost as efficient as a current day 4pot Cerato that weighs 200kg less with far less power & torque, not to mention engine smoothness. My old 1.8L Celica was also far smoother & far better engineered 20 years ago. I love Speedkar's videos, so knowedgeable, detailed & well explained - it's a great heads up / reminder to all would be Hyundai/Kia owners. The the main reason why I have been a Toyota owner since 92, which is most of my driving life, Toyotas are generally bombproof.

Struth 😱 Something I do more often these days is change out that filter right there more often. Easy to inspect/replace & better quality air that you & your loved ones breath 😉 Glad you sorted the fueling hesitation. Was it the first fuel filter change ? What was the condition of filter ?

Why would anyone buy a car with their hard earned, some not so hard earned, that they haven't driven ? Personally I think Honda are in trouble which is a real shame. Been on the cards for years as JD mentioned. They're not cheap & not selling enough of them. A bit like Tesla. Personally I don't see the point of EV unless a) they’re battery tech can last a good lifetime, say 10 years & is completely clean & recyclable at EOL & b) they’re “cleanly” charged, ie: not by coal. Battery tech aside, to me an EV should be far cheaper to engineer & manufacture & don’t think they’re worth their asking $$, even less if it’s “a one price fit’s all” suit.

They are overpriced for what they are, imo. Tesla are only able to charge so much for their cars because of their battery tech, not sure it's worth it tbh. And Tesla cars aren't reliable, no where near Toyota/Lexus standards https://www.whatcar.com/news/2020-what-car-reliability-survey-brands/n20069 https://www.caradvice.com.au/927693/tesla-jaguar-alfa-romeo-and-land-rover-are-the-least-reliable-brands-j-d-power-report/ If the Aurion had an electric motor, I would imagine it would also cover huge miles. Then again it already does 🙂

Not sure about Kluger but go through the menu on the dash when parked.

OK. Me ol' man has an 03 Sportivo with same motor, it's an OK donk although his doesn't get driven much with 140K kms since new. Just service it & drive it 😉

Shame on Tesla for cutting corners on an already stupidly very expensive car which to me is an unknown quantity as far as reliability is concerned. Personally I wouldn't consider one, even if dirt cheap.

Did you do any other head work like valves, guides etc ? How about the pistons, rings, bores all OK ? Thought since half the engine is out might as well recondition the whole enchilada ehh ?

In all honesty, 5000K miles (about 8100kms) isn't all that bad provided a full synthetic oil is used and is within spec and the owner doesn't neglect the car often by consistently doing short trips and/or trashing it by doing long haul heavy towing - one or all of these have the potential to degrade oil quickly. So a lot of onus is on the owner for taking note of how the car/truck is used & to take appropriate servicing action. Problem is, as most of you have pointed out many times before, that most people don't know, understand or care for proper use or maintenance & will blindingly stretch out the already long OCI. A company/business vehicle just compounds the situation even further where cost is king.

Pics of heads ? Out of curiosity what was the service history like & with whom ? Did they use dino, semi synthetic or full synthetic oils? Looking at the valve cover it certainly looks like owner neglect. Real pitty as the Kluger is an awesome truck.

Yeah I did notice 1-2 weeks before end of June that Autobarn, Repco & LineLink had decent sales, AB was best I think but didn't want to spend a $ that's why I kinda ignored it. My Hachi hardly gets used so I'm not desperate, I'll consider next time. The Aurion has the Viofo's x 2 which are more than good enough atm.

Looking at the rear screen, it's at top left corner, just a small section enough to make your day Yep I noticed the other day the DR750XPlus model & had a quick squiz, looks impressive but not the price @ $600 for 2CH kit. Better get when on special like EOFY 🤨 Ahh, that explains it, they're brilliant, pardon the pun 😆 My Aurion also has the stock LED's & I'm converted, still a Merc rocks up & suddenly it's almost daylight . . .

^^ tried the foil, 3M Aluminium tape, electronic noise suppressor, even ferrite chokes - didn't work ! Had to move the cam away from the DAB antenna (rear screen), works fine now. Spent hours farting around 😬 I'm guessing coax =more $$ . . . Coax would have been easier 😉 ps: yep they're way too expensive for what they are now days.

Thanks NZ ! It's far far smoother & more detailed than my old DR650 (time for a change), possibly even better than my 2K Viofo cams although I would need to compare back to back. Ideally it still needs to be better at night though to pick up plates & faces, I guess it'll get better with time & more $$ thrown at it by the manufacturers. I was keen to get the 4K cams last year but thought it was too soon for 4K adoption, especially given the huge file sizes & the SD cards required & they get hot. I'm already using a 256GB card on my Viofo. Reckon you're onto something there with regard to interference, the BV rear cams do use a coax cable as opposed to power for the cheap Viofo A119, even their 4K 2CH cams use a USB. Their newest A139 changes that. ps: bright head lights !

@nzzr6 How about video quality at night with limited street lighting ? The 60fps sure makes a big difference.

Good to know that the current BlackView units don't screw your radio reception. I must admit to using the older A119 V2 (MCV20R Camry) & current A119 V3 cams (GSV50R Aurion) and although they're a great budget cam with excellent video quality, the latest V3 does interfere with radio reception, in particular the DAB radio on my Aurion. Doesn't help that multiple antennas are all over the rear screen 😐 I wasted many hours trying to figure out the best solution for it cos I love the DAB radio, it worked in the end, but sounds like I could have avoided it all together by getting a more expensive unit.

The cam will record anything to a pre-determined time setting, I have it set to 3 minutes. If motion triggered it will mark it as normal Park Mode recording, if detected by G sensor (a knock) then it will mark it as an "Event" so you can scan through & select only those to view if desired. After the set time has elapsed the cam stops recording & goes into standby mode waiting for the next detection, it always stays on though.

I have the older DR650 on my Hachi (average unit & even more average software) & although older it's similar to the newer versions. Parking Rec G Sensor: T-B= 90, L-R= 90, F-B= 90 Had to adjust to this cos even a truck driving past 20M away would trigger an event despite car in a carpark. Hope it helps. Which model do you have & how do you find it?

@LewYou certain it's sludge ? And is that 100K kms or 1 million ?