DANZZT231

I think I need to explore the car further seeing everyone complements the handling. But I supposed it works in 2 ways? Lazy around town for relax driving, and alert and responsive on demand.

Exqusite taste. I saw your post in Newcelica.org also. Did you find the steering in this car is very slow? I really don't find the steering to be responsive when I drove my ex gf's IS200.

Great work you did!

Just follow the tyre psi recommendation found on the driver's side T pillar, and if not mistaken it is 32 psi (the measurement found on the T pillar is Kpa). I normally pump up 36 for my std size 16 inch but that's because I'm using stiffer shock absorber.

Excellent. I starting to think BC is actually the same as the one who made Buddy Club now that Buddy Club is made in Taiwan.

I used to always use Castrol Formula R / Edge when I have the Corolla 1ZZ, but now I prefer Mobil 1. My experience with Castrol Edge is when it gets closer to and passed 5000km the 2ZZ engine feels rough, but with Mobil 1 the engine remains smooth. And Castrol Edge is not true full synthetic, as some would say, while Mobil 1 is. I personally don't really know, but Mobil 1 for me. Still, it is recommended to change the oil every 5000km or 6 months, whichever comes first.

Does the car like to wonder itself as it hits bumps? That top mount actually will give you caster and camber at the same time, but each degree of changes I think the car's toe changes too. I have seen this on my friend's Buddy Club coilover for his Evolution 7. Position it like this from top view : / \ (your before set up) As you slide the plate up for more negative camber, it will give you positive caster, but this I would think whack out too much toe out. The positive caster is a welcome addition though, but too much toe out will destroy your tyre in no time. So make sure you play around with this on the alignment shop. You can adjust the toe not from the top mount also, but I am not sure if there is too much changes made by the top mount causes the std alignment adjustment not being able to come back close to factory setting. If you like to know what caster and toe is, whiteline page will give you excellent information and after you finish reading that you may want to do it. On my celica, and most cars, the three mounting bolts of the plate is like this from top view: Can you see how the two bolt are line up horizontally on the chassis, while if you look at your Aurion it's position angled? And look at the camber adjustment slider, on my Celica it parallel with the two bolt of the plate, while yours doesn't. So I think that's how the BC plate is meant to be for the Aurion/Camry chassis, unless of course they gave you the wrong part. But again, I have seen this on my friend's Evo 7. Why don't you play around with the plate slider and see if it work?

what tyre size?

When the exhaust is fully shut, it looks like there's only little air will escape. Won't that suffocate the engine?

Nice I think I will put back my low spoiler.

Red MR2 AW11. Reminds me of Chan Ho Nam. 2ZZ-GE it if you can.

The final results Alright, I decided to take out the rear lower control arm tomorrow as it touched the muffler pipe badly during load. This is because the rear lower sub-frame sits lower than standard due to the Roll Coupler Adjuster. Rather than damaging the brace, I better take it out and will put it back on once I have change the exhaust in the future. Besides, I don't think the bar will produce any benefit, but I guess I would never know. Still, this would open new opportunity to try the car without having the rear lower control arm bar. Though I don't see the benefit of having rear lower control arm bar, the front lower control arm bar does work. The first thing that went to my head the moment I turn the steering wheel is the word stability. Already very impressed with the complete C-One packaging, this adds more sugar the sweet pudding. If the Roll Coupler Adjust brings stability at the rear, then this bar do so for the front. If you look at the where the bar is connected, to me this has nothing to do with the chassis stiffness. In fact, it now looks like a torsion beam. So I quickly went to Cusco's website and this is what it said about lower control arm brace: "While the Strut tower bar connects the top end of the suspension, this Lower arm bar is more effecting on stabilizing the wheel alignment. Especially on FWD/AWD models. It helps improve traction when accelerating" Not sure about improve traction when accelerating, but the word stabilize does ring a bell~! Since the lower control arm bar do not add more stiffness to the chassis, it did not create more understeer effect. I went to try this on big round about, empty of course: Take the outside line, hold steady partial throttle, swing the steering, give it more throttle then as the rear slide and the car begin to rotate give it some more throttle again. The nose of the car stays on the inside line, and no understeer in this instance. U - turn completed. The car just slide and rotated smoothly. See, the Celica actually likes sliding and even with all those bars added the character remains but it can do so in a much more stable manner. And this concludes my Phase 2 suspension modification, and will dial in new wheel alignment to match: Front camber: -2 degree Rear camber: -1.5 degree Front toe: Total + 2mm Rear toe: Total 0mm, or +1mm Once I set the alignment numbers, and do more testing I can learn more about the car's new behaviour. I haven't seen much of it, but so far so good and I am very very pleased with everything. Will be needing new tyre soon, and that will bring more fun again, until I step in to Phase 3.

Update: Carbing Lower Control Arm braces fitted. One of the most popular braces upgrades for Celica is the front lower control arm brace, and most go for Cusco. The front lower control arm brace, and the 3-point rear strut bar brace are the two brace I really look forward to. The rest are extras, and it so happened that I was offered a full package at a killer price. Cut to the chase, below are the photos for both front and rear lower control arm braces by another high profile brand - Carbing. Front lower control arm brace Rear lower control arm brace I have not test the car yet, but judging by the install of the front lower control arm brace it looks like this definitely will produce some positive result. The rear lower control arm brace, however, don't seems to be a functional modifications. Both are very lightweight so those diet freak won't need to worry about the amount of kg added to the Celica. Time for a quick test drive.

Thanks man, I supposed this is what forum is about; sharing information. I'm glad you enjoyed it :)

Thanks man, and I am looking forward to see your Celica :) What's been done to your Celica? And it's Friday, so hopefully I can install the two lower control arm bars tonight without waking up the neighbour.

Ah yes, it's the bonnet spoiler :)

Time to put theory into practice. New parts installed: Roll Coupler Adjuster C-One Type R - front brace C-One Type R - rear brace C-One Type R - trunk brace Areas needed to be improved: 1. Reducing body roll at high speed long sweeper without having to lower the rear shock absorber to the max. 2. Stabilize rear end nervousness 3. Increase chassis rigidity to allow the shock absorber to work at optimum stroke. Roll Coupler Adjuster I'm always keen on trying Whiteline's Roll Coupler Adjuster (RCA) and without going to technical detail (which can be found on Whiteline's technical article) this simple yet effective modifications corrects the Celica's rear suspension geometry. There are many benefits listed by adding RCA, but the most important is stop the Celica's rear end nervousness. There is nothing fancy about the RCA; its just set of spacers to be fitted between the rear cross-member and the chassis. Results 1. Reduce body roll at high speed sweeper 2. Sharper turn in 3. Reduce understeer 4. Eliminate rear end nervousness 5. Rear suspension settles quicker again (First aided by swaybar) 6. Able to shift weight without roll C-One Type R braces Awhile ago when I was reading Whiteline's technical articles (very good read) I came across an article about chassis rigidness and strut bars. And on top of that, I also read Cusco's own explanation of strut braces (also very good read). While both articles made senses and both are on the same point of view there's always the classic argument of whether or not strut bars are needed, let alone whether or not it actually works. I suggests everyone who have interests in buying a strut bar read both Whiteline and Cusco's article to help understand the reason of strut braces. From the research I made, and experience with strut braces from my Corolla, together with another (yes) good deal coming through my door I went to grab these three shiny bars to test my own conclusions about strut braces. Results with limited (quick) testing 1. Shock absorber at both ends settles even quicker again (First aided by adding swaybars - this have even greater effect) 2. Steering is firmer 3. Reduce body roll 4. Car turns with even greater composure, it stays flatter at tight turn 5. Sharper turn-in again 6. Natural handling (Must be because both ends are now made stiffer, and maybe bit stiffer at the rear due to the trunk brace). For day to day driving its very surprising that the level of comfort is not sacrificed at all. The Bilstein, which what I consider the key player in my suspension modifications is now aided by the key supporters (swaybars, roll coupler adjuster and strut bars), and as a result it is now able to work at greater optimum. The whole suspension just works well together and I am more than pleased with the result. On a side note; In relation to point 6 of the result, a week ago I tested my friend's Integra (non type R/S) with front strut bars only for its suspension modifications and his car understeer more compared to standard. But this can be fixed by wheel alignment. The only downside is it added more weight. But that's okay because I shed off plenty of weight by removing the rear panels and spare wheels anyway (Not wanting to cut the rear panels for the rear bars, and the spare wheel don't fit due to the trunk bars). And there are two more bars to be added hopefully this weekend; 1. Carbing - Front lower arm brace 2. Carbing - Rear lower arm brace Why lower arm brace? - read Whiteline technical article. I am yet to find out the actual result but so far what they posted on their forum has helped me achieved exactly what I wanted. Hopefully this is just another case of proven theory. Stay tuned.

RT615 would be nice for track, I think.

Be careful with fibreglass kit, and no one seems to like Carmate either. I did however saw a very nice TRD replica which completely fooled me into thinking it was an authentic TRD as the weave is perfect smooth. Shop around for replicas, I am very sure there are very nice quality replicas around. But if A+ quality is mandatory, then it is unfortunate because TRD kit is discontinued. Call up Toyota see if they any stock left, but I am sure the front bar is not in stock anymore. Side skirt, rear valance, high spoiler and front lip may still be available. Good luck~!

What is the width of your wheel? Size 17x7, offset +42 is fine with 215/40/17 or 205/45/17. If the wheel size mentioned is your size, then the tyre size could be the problem, if not, the shock/spring is too soft resulting the wheel to submerge too much during compression (heavy braking for example). And how much lowering is Pedders Low anyway? Perhaps you can tell us at what point the wheel/tyre rubs? 17x7 inch tyre, shocks arnt stock, there pedders, got the setup done not long ago, maybe 2-3km not even. lowering i think is 35-40mm drop. ok, ive noticed that the scrubbing seems to be getting less and less the more i drive. the best i can explain is that the corners and bends that it used to scrub on seem to rub less and less each time i go through them.(even though i cant seem to see any tyre arch guard worn out or any worn out bits on the tyre itself) It seems to scrub when im taking a bend quickly and the road service is on a decline. And only seems to be the front right, not that i can really notice the left anyway. If the road is a flat surface with a tight corner its fine, so i assume its a combination of tyre height with width and it just pushes it over the limit and might be scraping the side corner of the rubber with gravity pushing it down as the road surface is declining in the first place. Btw, i got my sussy done at bridgestone and my mates the head mechanic and works there, he installed them (very pedantic guy), there pedders parts, but anyhow, he was saying that with the sportsryder shocks that the more you pin them, the more they stiffen up. Well just wait until the shock/spring is settled then and see how it goes. Is the sportryder Pedder's own shock or is it based on other makes? Like whiteline is based from Koni.

Just re-install your stock air box when required to get your warranty.

Just go to Toyota and buy one there man.

What is the width of your wheel? Size 17x7, offset +42 is fine with 215/40/17 or 205/45/17. If the wheel size mentioned is your size, then the tyre size could be the problem, if not, the shock/spring is too soft resulting the wheel to submerge too much during compression (heavy braking for example). And how much lowering is Pedders Low anyway? Perhaps you can tell us at what point the wheel/tyre rubs?

If not mistaken, Carlo 1ZZ-FE have Eibach on his.