DJKOR

I've had great success with Swirl-X and Swirl Remover 2.0.... both with machine and by hand. I still prefer doing it by hand though for precise control. I wouldn't be blaming a product when the effectiveness of it relies on you own technique.

Just don't let the seat fall back. Otherwise you are going rip the wires out of the wiring harness.

Supercharging does have it's merits and that guy certainly isn't wrong, but depending on what car you are boosting, each have their own advantages and disadvantages. Personally, a turbo setup is going to get your more for you dollar on the Aurion simply because it gives you more customisation.

Fark yeah. Man I want the next couple of days to fly by.

Personally, for the 17x7's on the Aurion, I wouldn't go any larger than 225/50R17. Not only will this give a really fat tire (unless you really want that look), you are not really getting any benefit from it. But most of all, a 235/45R17 should only be used on a 7.5 inch wide wheel at the minimum. If you were to got for a 235 wide tire, it would have to be a 235/50R17, but my statement in the paragraph above still applies.

How about something like my old Sportivo? That was a repairable write-off due to flood damage. All that happened was water got into the floor pan no higher than the raised part where the seat rails mount to. There was no structural damage and the engine bay was untouched. Only little bits of surface rust where bolts attached to, but nothing that couldn't have been treated easily. I agree with what has been said before, an I reckon the whole repairable/statutory write-off guidelines are good enough as they are.

The current Ultra Racing one we are using here is the 19mm bar. This one alone makes a fairly big difference over the stock 16mm. There is also a 21mm one available, but unless you race your car on the track all the time, I wouldn't recommend it. Those are the only two available.

So that's 120kg lighter, 32kW more power, and 75Nm more torque at 2400RPM earlier. Definitely seems like a car to consider.

You are going, aren't you? SuperDave, you aren't going to Sydney, but are you coming to the meet? Looks like the attempts to confuse have worked.

Damn, 1.4 litre supercharged and turbocharged engine pushing 132kW and 250Nm of torque at 2000-4500 RPM. That certainly seems like a hot little hatch. At 1190kg, that thing would go like the clappers.

Thank *** someone out there is thinking what I'm thinking. Anything other than an Audi just looks like you're trying to hard to copy someone's style. But like you said, each to their own.

What works best for me* is if it is dry outside, I simply put the heat up a little more and put the windows down a crack (as in alike a couple of centimetres). Having the vent on fresh air also aids this. This reduces the humidity inside and in most cases eliminates the windows fogging up. Otherwise, if it is raining outside and you have to keep your windows completely shut, having the A/C running is the next best option. This is also one of the best options when you have entered the car whilst it is raining since the heat will pretty much make it rather humid inside utilising the moisture that has been brought inside, especially that from your shoes transferred to the carpet mats. Both those options also help to keep your inside relatively dry which in turn reduces that damp smell. Sure usign the A/C may use slightly more fuel (you'd be surprised that it really isn't that much), you have to consider the cost of the anti-fog treatments and the fact that you have to re-apply them every so often, the extra cost would probably work out to be the same. At least with the A/C you get extra benefits as mentioned above so it's more of a win. *In cases where I do have the windows up (other in the car, etc) because even when cold, I drive with the windows all the way down and the heat on full.

I'm not a huge fan of those wheels. Seen them on a Gen 6 Camry before and didn't like the 'raised' part of the outer lip. When it's parallel with the ground, it makes your tire look flat. But just he design in general isn't my thing. The colour combination works well though. And those would be 20's. Edit: I knew I took a photo of it. Back in May 2008 I spotted this. Those rotors are looking real sad there.

You're just one step away from slicks I'm not going to the meet. ... in Brisbane.

Have a read through the PM's I sent you before you fitted the RSB. I mentioned that you would come across this 'issue' and to answer you question, it's nothing to worry about.

Note that the tire pressures stated on the door placard (not the maximum load pressures) are the minimum recommended tire pressure.

I would be more than certain that it's your own driving that accounts for the change in feel if your ECU was reset more than a few start/stop cycles ago. You remind me of my old TAFE teacher Not in a bad way or anything. Just brings back memories to when he would yell out 'who's got the wireless going?'.

Yeah, sorry to hear about that Ash. But yeah, Of the 612 or so TRD's in existence, 2 of them making claims within the same span of time is a bit of a funny concurrence. I just want to get it all sorted ASAP, which would be easy in most cases, but with the meet coming up it means I will have to wait till next week to get fixed. It just sucks having to drive it with a scar like that especially with the meet coming up at the end of the week. ... and having the lower mesh pushed in by the other guy is a bit of a disappointment

I've bought from 3 different sellers over the last couple of years (no, not replacements for ones that have broken... for other cars) and all have produced the same results. My most recent seller was 'Ultra Vision HID'.

I think those are the ones I have. Looks Chinese made to me, despite all the German written all over it.

This is my take on the subject. I have had $50 (+ $25 shipping) eBay HID kits and had no issues with them whatsoever. Even stayed lit after a crash. And the fact that I am using another $50 kit shows that I still trust them. Each to their own though. It's your money in the end. Each to their own. I've had a $75 kit fitted in my Aurion since the day I started driving it. That means I have had my set for 23 months so far. I do a lot of night driving so they get a lot of use and I have even travelled down some really, really bumpy roads while using them (which is one way to wear the bulbs a little harder) and have had absolutely no issues. I have used cheap kits like these in the past and the two other cars in the family use them as well with absolutely no issues. As far as I'm concerned, getting at least 2 years life out of a $75 kit is money well spent. The technology involved with HID's is a little bit advanced so it takes a fair level of quality in the first place for it to work properly. If it works in the first place, you already have a set of decent quality. The thing that wears these kits out faster than anything else is not taking proper car of them, ie. running them for very short durations, flashing them, not allowing cooling time before turning them on again if you turn them off, and not letting the arc stabilise then driving immediately. The extra wear from some of these conditions isn't drastic, but it's extra wear nevertheless. Whatever makes you comfortable. Spend what you want. And some discussion involving the lamps: It's like asking why one particular product cost X amount in one store when another store offers the exact same product for X amount cheaper. It's all about trying to get profit where they can. I would say that the $41 lamps are no different to the $18.99 ones. I have handled many sets of eBay HID's and have drawn this conclusion based on that. Chances are, an expensive pair like those listed at $149, are just going to be of equivalent quality as well. Maybe the base may be of a slightly higher quality, but it's the lamp that really matters. They may try to use reasoning like "Bosch made" or "Philips made", but these are only possible if they start with an OEM Philips or Bosch lamp in a D2/D4 base, remove the OEM base, and fit it into a H11 base etc. These lamps would definitely justify the cost (in which you would be looking at around $149 per bulb), but it's not something that is commonly done and you can never guarantee that you are getting a true Philips/Bosch lamp. One key indicator though that they are trying to rip you off when saying they use a Philips or Bosch lamp is the colour temperature. If they offer their "Philips/Bosch" lamps in anything greater than 6000k... then treat it as a scam. No OEM HID is made with a colour temperature greater than 6000k. The best way for me to put this is that it's ultimately up to you what you want to spend. In my opinion, in the end, all you are paying for is peace of mind while the other guy profits. I currently have a pair of lamps in my Aurion that are equal to those listed for $18.99 (the entire cost of my HID kit was $74 shipped). I have had these in my Aurion for 23 months with a lot of night driving and experiencing a fair amount of bumps while operating (which can reduce their life). There lamps are still going strong, and I would consider them again. As well, here is some other reply I made that you may want to read. It mostly focuses on the ballasts, but the lamps also have to be up to a decent standard: In other words, if the kit wasn't up to a good standard, either your bulbs will not ignite, or they will burn out really fast. The thing most people don't realise here is what is involved in HID lighting technology. First you have the lamp which involves a specific gas held under pressure inside the bulb with electrodes on either end that are spaced apart at the right distance, then you have a ballast to drive it which needs to run as per specification to do the job right. There isn't too much room to get either of these things wrong, and if you did, it's going to result in a kit that wears out really really fast. For those with a more technical mind and want to read up about the HID ballast, here is something for you to read: Analysis and Design of High-Intensity-Discharge Lamp Ballast for Automotive Headlamp (Thesis - Yongxuan Hu.pdf)

Or OCD I think that's the better description I've got leather seats now. No need to worry about that Hehehe. Nah, I basically live in my car and with such a tight schedule, I want to make everything easy to prepare for the meet since I will have to get some good sleep on Thursday after work.

Interesting point there. For example, the 18 inch Kappa wheels are offered as an accessory to all grades of the Camry except for the Hybrid. I wonder what the weight of the stock wheel/tire combo is. If the Sportivo wheel/tire combo is very similar in weight to the Hybrid ones, as long as you keep the same tire width, I wouldn't imagine any issues with regards to the drivetrain. But I guess at the end of the day, it's what Toyota says about it because there are a few more factors at play here that you don't need to worry about on a normal car.

Personally... no. Just because something is possible, doesn't automatically mean it's a good choice. I'd be aiming to chose a tire that where your rim width is close to being in the middle of the recommended range for the selected tire size. In this case, the factory 205/55R16 is the tire of choice. If I was then wanted to upsize on the width, I would only go one step more and this would be to 215/50R16. With a 235/50R16, you are on the minimum recommended tire width. Even though you can still use this tire, I personally wouldn't be choosing it. Plus it's going to look really fat. On top of that, you should probably consider the cost of changing tire sizes as well as the availability. Try ringing around and seeing how much a 235/50R16 tire is.

Make yourself familiar with a calculator like this one: 1010 Tires - Tire Size Calculator This will give you an idea of how much your speedo will be off by. As well, this calculator gives you the recommended wheel width for the entered tire size. As long as your wheel is within the recommended width range, you should not have any issues with regards to fitment of the tires to the wheels. The usual answer you will get for this is 'yes'. However, here's some further information on that topic: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html