DJKOR

No spambot... she is after a real job.

Most stock speakers are rated at around 10-15W RMS. The head unit you are looking at is advertising its amplifier power in terms of peak power. The actual RMS power output would probably be more around 1/4 to 1/3 of that value at the most.

Not exactly a LOL video, but funny:

You're pretty interested mate in getting more power out of your car. Why don't you go down the path of turbocharging it instead of trying to get more out of it in it's N/A form? According to your figures, surely it would be more cost efficient. Realistically though, if only it were that cheap. You'll be surprised at how much more it will cost. And that's doing it properly.

LOL. Epic fail spambot.

Either that or they put a really crappy tire on it.

I didn't say that cornering ability isn't affected. There will be a difference in handling, but it isn't necessarily caused by a reduction in body roll. Okay, well the way I see it will be different, but what will be occurring is a reduction in weight transfer do to a lower centre of gravity. In the end, this equates to reduced body roll, but to look at it from this perspective, it isn't the body roll that is actively reduced by the spring (unless of course it is stiffer), it is a by-product of reduced weight transfer. Basically, just don't worry about what I've said. It doesn't make the ride any more firm that usual until the car is pushed harder than you normal daily driving. In any situation where the both rear wheels move up and down at a fairly similar rate, there will be pretty much no difference. When one side moves more independent of the other however, then the side that has to move further away from it's 'neutral' position will be stiffer than usual. When driving normally though, this difference is not really noticed. You will notice a difference in firmness when taking corners harder, but this doesn't translate to a lesser ride quality as comfort isn't what you are usually noticing mid turn.

How much time/money are you willing to put into making it work? Because I sure hope you are patient. Though with anything like this, patience is a given. The gearbox you will be looking at would be an E153. The guy/s doing the MR2 2GR-FE engine swap have been doing this for theirs. You can also get a lighter Fidanza flywheel to go with it as well. The Aurion would be fairly accommodating since it is based on the Camry body so you can just knock the cutouts out and mount your shifter, clutch pedal etc. Then there will be the wonderful task of tricking the stock ECU into thinking that the auto gearbox is still there, otherwise it would start playing up on you. Now be game and be the first to do this to an Aurion. I hear lots of people saying how simple things may be to do or how things could be possible, yet no one has been man enough to attempt such a thing. It's easy to say something, but actually doing it is another. As for getting more out of the U660E automatic you currently have... there's not much at all that you can do unfortunately except for learning to get used to it. Drive the car; don't let it drive you. Are you man enough?

This is true as well. RSB's and FSB's actually helps quite a bit in the reduction of body roll compared to lowering springs on their own. The thing as well is that to maintain ride comfort, aftermarket springs (like the Kings and Pedders) have a more progressive spring rate. In comparison to the stock Sportivo springs which are rather stiff all the way through their compression, these aftermarket springs are a bit soft on the initial compression and progressively get stiffer as they compress. Because of this, on the initial turn in, this softness means that the body roll isn't necessarily reduced.

Quite possible actually. I thought it all would have reached a point now where any remaining bugs in there would be dried out to the point where they wouldn't have any smell to them. I did give the engine bay a pretty serious hose out though when I got back. I guess I must have missed a spot. It's just a bit of a bummer though cause it's not going to be easy to search for the source, and if I could, I'm not sure if it's going to be something I want to see. I don't finding stuff like that. Might have to hit it with the Gerni again.

Can anyone think of what in my engine bay would be causing a fish food smell? The smell is just that, like flaked fish food. It seems to be localised around the left side of the engine bay (accessory side viewed from the front). It's not overly strong and you need to put your head rather close to notice it. I can't seem to figure out what it is. I'm sure nothing has died there because the smell has remained the same over the last couple of weeks. Is there anything in particular that could burn up in there that can smell like that?

It's all marketing. You wouldn't believe how many pads out there say that when those claims aren't exactly true. They make such statements without a comparative product mentioned.

Today I gave my TRD the best clean it has probably had in it's life. It's been about 3 months as well since I have touched some clay and wax and boy was this a mission to do. Started working on it at 10am and have only just finished the exterior now (4:00pm). Started with a full bubble bath spending a fair bit of time removing these odd black dots on it. I think it must be road tar or something. Either way, I got everything spot free. Following that was a good claying. Strangely enough, in the past, claying my Sportivo resulted in the clay bar turning a greyish colour. Claying this car though resulted in it going a yellowish colour with a bit of grey in it. After that was a good coat of Sonax Full Protect wax. Then applying some Braso to the muffler cutouts in the bumper, a waxing of the wheels (not expecting that to last), and a Rain-X treatment of all windows and both mirrors. Just having a break then attacking the interior and engine bay. Some observations from all this: 1) At the expense of being called lazy, I have really lost interest in cleaning my car like this. I used to really enjoy spending time to get my car all shiny etc, but now it just seems like a big chore. Sure enough the feeling of waxing her smooth body after rubbing her down with some clay is quite satisfying, but unfortunately it has reached a point where the satisfaction doesn't outweigh the effort anymore for me. I think I can live with the normal washing etc but when it comes to claying, and maybe waxing, I think I might pay the good guys down at Hoppy's to do the job for me. Maybe I just have to get back into the habit again. Or maybe it's because this daily driver clocks up so many k's. I've only had it for one month and I have already travelled 7000km. 2000km of that was driving it here to Brissy, so realistically, it has travelled 5000km. That's like 166km a day average. Cleaning it just doesn't have a lasting feeling. 2) Compared to my old Sportivo: - The TRD sure is easier to wash/clay/wax since the front and rear bumper are basically one piece compared to the two piece bumpers on the Sportivo. - However, waxing the silver is a little trickier than the red since now I can't clearly see if the wax is fully applied and buffed off. 3) I never knew just how much shine you could get out of a silver car until now. May not be a mirror finish, but damn it looks good. So much for the Ming Paint Protection the original owner of this car had done to it. Whatever was left of that (if any) would be long gone now. Edit: Okay... I really need to snap out of it. What was I thinking. I can't be lazy. I take back observation number 1, and will force myself to do all the work.

Usually the information that is supplied with generic HID kits is pretty basic. They don't usually explain much. I'm not really good at explaining things, and to me, fitting HID's is pretty straightforward, so I did some searching. About the best I could find, which would be more useful than the manuals you get with such HID kits would be the following. Just adapt it to suit your car: http://plasmagarage.com/installationtutorialAccord.html A common name for bulk Asian made HID kits. I have had a couple in the past... with different packaging and the same name. He will be doing his High Beams since that's the lamp base the high beams use. As for the relevance of doing it, each to their own. Yeah.... must be the reason why I've had many cheap kits last 3 years + . Just because it is cheap, doesn't give reason to say they are crap.

That's one dodgy way to do it. Doesn't look very neat though. If you were to go that approach, pick up some weather seal similar to this, and wedge it in there: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/296734765/window_rubber.html This is what I did in my old Camry when the velcro/adhesive wore off on the dash mat and I needed a way to hold it in place.

Personally, if you are going to lower your Aurion, just stay local and get some King Springs. They will give you the same outcome. Otherwise, go for Pedders. The TRD springs are known to sag pretty badly on the rear by the way. King Springs will sag a bit at the rear, but I don't think it would be as much as the TRD springs. I'm not sure if the design is slightly different to their Pro-Kit range, but the TRD springs are said to be made by Eibach by the way. Performance wise, on their own you will notice it handling different due to the change in ride height, but to get the most positive outcome, this should be tied in with a front strut brace and rear sway bar... which you luckily have. To get full potential, they should also be matched to a set of shocks made for lowering springs, but for day to day driving, you probably won't even notice the difference there.

An American soldier, serving in World War II, had just returned from several weeks of intense action on the German front lines. He had finally been granted R&R and was on a train bound for London. The train was very crowded, so the soldier walked the length of the train, looking for an empty seat. The only unoccupied seat was directly adjacent to a well dressed middle aged lady and was being used by her little dog. The war weary soldier asked, "Please, ma'am, may I sit in that seat?" The English woman looked down her nose at the soldier, sniffed and said, "You Americans. You are such a rude class of people. Can't you see my Little Fifi is using that seat?" The soldier walked away, determined to find a place to rest, but after another" trip down to the end of the train, found himself again facing the woman with the dog. Again he asked, "Please, lady. May I sit there? I'm very tired." The English woman wrinkled her nose and snorted, "You Americans! Not only are you rude, you are also arrogant. Imagine!" The soldier didn't say anything else; he leaned over, picked up the little dog, tossed it out the window of the train and sat down in the empty seat. The woman shrieked and railed, and demanded that someone defend her and chastise the soldier. An English gentleman sitting across the aisle spoke up, "You know, sir, you Americans do seem to have a penchant for doing the wrong thing. You eat holding the fork in the wrong hand. You drive your autos on the wrong side of the road. And now, sir, you've thrown the wrong bitch out the window."

Damn... how wide is that? Nothing wrong with some poke

That is correct. Insert the tip of the key which you just removed from there into that slot (it's a perfect fit) then twist the key and it will pop it open.

Personally I don't think that is the greatest idea. I would have them read first before resetting it.... which is what Ash has already planned to do. If you reset it to clear the code, go for a drive and it comes back on, the code that comes up may be different to what came up in the first place which can make diagnosis of the issue harder.

+ 1000 on the LOL's. Damn... who will our replacement be?

It doesn't exactly apply to the Camry because the dash and console is slightly different. Have a look here instead: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236753

To get this out of the way firstly, have you considered a turbo instead? Actually, I'll rephrase that. When you considered a turbo, did you have a word with Paul to see if he is willing to disclose information spoken about in this thread: Turbo Camry Gen 6-6.5 V6 and Gen6 I4 I would imagine the end result of a turbo would be much more satisfying, plus it would give you a bit more control over things.. plus the addition of an intercooler. If you did manage to get your hands on a TRD supercharger... or one that would fit in a similar fashion, these are the differences that I have noticed so far: - additional idler pulley - different intake manifold - different VVT-i oil line (goes in the reverse direction) - larger injectors - different ECU (may possibly be substituted with a piggyback + normal 2GR-FE ECU) - different vacuum and PCV hoses (which is irrelevant) - transmission cooler (obviously not required to make the install possible) Apart from that, everything on the outside appears to be the same. Engine internals are said to be the same as a normal Aurion, but without getting an answer from TRD themselves, then any minor differences inside are unknown.

You should have a look in the Aurion forum since the head unit is the same. One unit that we have been discussing a bit (which a fair few have already purchased) is discussed here: Another Head Unit On page 6 of that thread, Steven has also reviewed an alternative unit that appears to be quite good as well. This can be seen here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25362&view=findpost&p=389816

Spotted at 2pm driving along Orange Grove Road passing the Riawena Road intersection: The rare white TRD Aurion. There is the possibility that it could have been ex-TRD555, but I've seen one in the Sunnybank around a year or two ago so it may have been that one.