DJKOR

A late reply... but yes, I am still here in Canberra. Don't think I will be leaving till next week though. That will go one of two ways. I will go straight from here to Sydney to do some more work, or I will go home then fly to Alice Springs or Ayers Rock to do some work.

When you mention that, I can only think of those Sprint Boosters and anything that has a similar catch. I have expressed my opinions before, so I will just quote myself. It's your money to burn, so you make the choice: The Sprint Booster or the E-Booster as you have posted don't have any adjustment. They would only be set to one mode similar to the 'Sports' mode I mentioned above.

Funny that. The Aurion has had reported issues of the same thing really. Looks like Toyota stuffed something up somewhere along the line. Good to hear you're happy. Lucky you and your warranty.

I took the head unit fascia off (have to remove the head unit first), then surprisingly I used some paper sandwiched between the LED's and the perspex dispersion plate thing. It dimmed it a little, but enough to work for me because my eyesight is not too bad at the moment (I'm good with light). Didn't have the head unit for long though before it was replaced.

Yeah I know. I would love to get a set of them if I had the money. If this ain't it... then close enough: I believe the prototype wheels are g.max 'bona fide' G.Max Website . They are in rack one.

Sure about that? Because if the problem is resolved (ie. the fuel issue), the Check VSC error will disappear after driving for several kilometres or so. I've had bald tires before and did all kinds of sliding with them and never had a VSC error because of it.

Steam is good... but the chemicals smell better

I think there is a thread or post here that has pics, I think it is under the dash where the clock is... Yeah, I would have thought the title was quite descriptive enough: Positioning GPS antenna,

That's about what I would be thinking. There are two sources of heat that you can get around that area. 1) Your A/C piping. There is no insulation on the pipe going to the rear vents. As a result, if you turn the heat up on your A/C, your centre console area will heat up. This is also a good thing though cause if you have your A/C on cold, you can turn your console box into a cool box. 2) The bulb used for giving that green illumination around the shifter. As you can see in the above photo, it is in the exact spot that you have shown. As scootastaxisx6 said, it is quite possible that moving the shifter into that position can somehow create more heat. But I wouldn't say it's because of creating a gap... rather minimising the gap. I would say it's because the plastic that covers the shifter area moves to the right when you put it into 'S' mode and when you put plastic closer to the bulb instead of an air gap, you create more heat. Much like when you hold your hand 1 metre from a bulb, it barely feels the heat, but when you put it close to the bulb, it will warm up. On mine... I have no heat. ... but then again, I have an LED replacement there.

Good point. Well there you go Jeff... maybe red and black is the way to go:

Unfortunately, if you plan on taking photos like Rowan's, you need a digital SLR.... or any other camera with a large lens and manual settings. Point-and-shoot cameras have their limitations unfortunately... starting at the size of the lens.

For cleaning up your interior, 3M Scotchguard is not a bad cleaner. I don't clean my upholstery much but when I do, I just use Kitten Upholstery cleaner. May not be the best out there, but it does the trick. So that said, it's personal preference really. If you trust the 3M product more, then go for it. Just make sure to do a spot test first to make sure it is completely safe for the material. For my interior plastics, I use Meguiars Gold Class Dash & Trim Foam Protectant. This stuff is applied as a foam in which you then spread over the dash and ;eave it or lightly buff it depending on how much shine you want. It doesn't have that overly greasy feeling that Armor All has, and even when you get it on your hands, it breaks up a little easier than Armor All. Newcastle: It's all personal preference really. Go to any automotive store and you will find a range of different brands. Personally, I would recommend a Meguiars product (such as Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner), or an Autoglym product.

Though... on second thought, after seeing the Photoshop, the half-red approach doesn't look too bad either in combination with your wheels there Jeff. I'm 50/50 on this one.

The way I see it, if you are going to the effort of spraying some part of the calliper, you may as well go all the way and do the whole thing. But it depends on if you really like the look of it half sprayed. It's what you think will look good on your car.

I'm just shocked at how well he did it. It really does sound just like the real thing.

It depends on how humid the air is. The more humidity and the colder the air conditioner... the more condensation you get.

Are they really that cheap that they couldn't include 2 simple scuff plates? Seriously, it's not like it would cost them much.

In item 3 - unplug the 2 circled connectors - what are these for & is it essential that they be disconnected? These are for the rear power outlet socket and the gear selector illumination. You don't have to unplug them, but you are only making the procedure more difficult for yourself because unplugging them allows you to remove the trim entirely and put it to the side giving you more room to work with.

The best way to put this is that if your car is an auto... drive it like an auto. It's not a manual, so don't go changing gears yourself. That is the whole point of the automatic gearbox. There is the possibility of adding extra wear and tear to your auto box by manually shifting (primarily down-shifting) and it's not really advised. This statement is questionable but can vary on how you treat it. Just leave it in D and let it do what it's designed to do. Even the Aurion that has the manual over-ride with sequential shift is not specifically designed for that purpose. It's just the way it is. Instead, the purpose of having the lower gear selector on the gearbox is so that you limit the upper range of gears. For example, having the gear selector on '4' simply means that the transmission will make use of gears 1, 2, 3, and 4. Nothing else. Likewise, selecting 3 means that only gears 1, 2, and will be used, etc.

That poor Gen 5.

I just had to watch the VTEC guy again. That was mad. Even the turbo flutter was good. I wish I could do that.

Unfortunately; they don't see it like that.

I think the OP doesn't really need to know any more about the fog light legality side of things. It's his/her choice about running them or not. I still drive in dusk/dawn with my fog lights instead of my headlights. Yeah it's illegal.... but so is speeding which I still do.

dixie wants this to happen when the headlight switch is set to 'AUTO'. In the case of the Aurion, 'AUTO' will only activate the headlights themselves and this means that not only do the fog lights come on... but so do the headlights. In response to your question dixie, the simple answer is, no you can not have it work like you have specified, but if you are willing to take apart your ddash to access the auto headlight ECU, a few little tweaks here and there can make them perform as you wish. If you just want them coming on when your car is on, just leave the headlight switch set to parkers and the fog light switch set to on. When you start your car, the parkers and fog lights will come on, and then when you turn your engine off and open the drivers' door, they will all turn off.

That's some f**** mad skill right there. Reminds me of these videos from a while back. People think it's fake cause he covers his mouth, but that's just the way he does it. I've seen a video of him doing it without covering his mouth and it looked pretty funny. He looked like a kid making strange faces: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!