DJKOR

I feel pretty confident in saying that you will not have any changes in sound (anything noticeable anyways) or performance. Finding some 2nd hand TRD mufflers (or just getting new ones from Lukey who I'm sure make them) would be a complete waste of money. Also, changing just the rear mufflers are not going to have any performance gains. As for the note, a stock TRD sounds pretty much the same exhaust wise, just a little different under WOT due to the supercharger trying to breathe. You would be much better off getting aftermarket mufflers that have just the note you want because there is no point of dreaming for performance with just changing that alone.

Hmm. That sounds like a funky problem. From my perspective, I could imagine something playing up with either how the MP3's were encoded, the ID3 track labelling in them, or the way in which the MP3 CD is burnt. I've seen those factors contribute to some weird playback issues before. Alternatively, it could just be the head unit playing up, but then again, it may be fine and it only 'plays up' when given particular circumstances and therefore isn't technically at fault. You could bring it up with your dealer and see what they say I guess.

It's just for model identifying purposes. Nothing fancy involved there. It's like my old mobile phone... it was part of the 'K' Series. I'm pretty sure the 'K' didn't stand for anything.

WildfireATX... you summed up everything exactly. That said, I still choose to keep my intake resonators and control butterfly valve bypassed. It's most likely all down to the driving itself, but if I run similar times to Rowan when he is running an SRI when others are getting higher times, I'm going to naturally leave any changes I've made. As for the TB bypass, that was based on my cleaning obsession plus the fact with the alloy pipe replacing my upper resonator, it is actually cooler to touch with the TB coolant bypass. The way I see it.... someone has to do it to prove that it doesn't work. I am sick of hearing people doing things to their car and saying that their car responds better and feels faster etc, when in actual fact, it is exactly the same.

The coolant bypass is extremely easy to do on the Aurion. It's like a 2 minute job. No need to join anything, just disconnect one end of each hose and loop them around. Absolutely no performance gain though if that's what you're thinking. Made a big change to the temperature of the throttle body itself. Prior to the bypass, after a long drive the TB was too hot to touch. After the bypass, it is only just warm to touch. I would have taken photos for you, but in in Victoria right now. All that said, it's not really worth doing since it provides no gain. I only find it useful because I clean out my engine bay weekly and it's one less hot thing to worry about. Also makes it easier to clean the throttle body.

My Aurion Sportivo seats are made from a material that easily builds up static charge. My solution is to pick up some anti-static spray (usually find it together with pantyhose at the shops) and give a light spray to the seats. Works wonders. I usually only find the charge builds up when I wear my work trousers however. The anti-static spray can last a good month or two surprisingly. If the effects wear out over time and you need to handle the door before you can re-spray your seats, the way I avoid a heavy shock is to swing your hand (like a slapping motion) quickly past the edge of the door once you step out so that your fingers quickly brush the edge of the door. That seems to discharge the static shock with minimal 'shock'.

Don't waste your money. It will not provide any gains whatsoever.

hahah dos that email help you pick up chicks LOL Probably just as effective as the Commodore is at picking up chicks

Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it all turned out.

You need to venture outside of the Aurion boards: FS: Aurion Eyelids (New/Unused) FS: aurion eyelids from recent GB

Screw VIP styling, turbo Camry is the way to go: 2007 Turbo Camry

In the meantime, just make sure you don't load the car up to much and try not to give it a spirited drive. The tires won't really blow that easy, but the chance of it is just slightly higher. I doubt in the course of the next week or two they will be compromised, but when it comes to safety, it's not the best to take risks.

Would be the easy way out, but it isn't solving the problem. I would seriously get your wheels balanced somewhere different to where you last went.

I don't think you will want a TRD grill unless you either have the TRD bumper or am willing to do some serious custom work. Just have a look here: Help required with TRD grill

That's the only way to connect an amp to the stock head unit.

Are you referring to the plain white sticker? If so, that was specially made for the 2009 TOCAU Annual Meet. They were given away in the 'showbags' that were made up. After the meet, they were sold off and Rowan managed to get a hold of one.

Firstly, the basics: - A load rating index of 84 indicates a maximum of 500kg per tire - A load rating index of 87 indicates a maximum of 545kg per tire Basically it all means that if your car had weight perfectly distributed, with 87 rated tires your gross vehicle weight can be a maximum of 2180kg whereas with 84 rated tires, your gross vehicle weight can be a maximum of 2000kg. When they determine the load rating, they do give a little extra clearance, but it's not to say that you should go below it. Also during accelerating/braking/cornering, the load on each tire can vary so therefore weight is not always equally distributed. That all said, it's still illegal to have the incorrect load rated tires on your car and I would highly suggest to get them changed ASAP. As well as being illegal, should you get in an accident and your insurance company finds out about this, you will not be covered.

I personally wouldn't do such a thing. I instead would have used something like some CRC Belt Grip spray.

I use Fuchs Titan Super GTO. This oil is only available in a 10W30 oil weight. I believe your engine requires a 5W20 or 0W20 for optimium performance however. Fuchs do have oil to suit though, but it won't be the same as the one I use. If you look at your manual, it clearly states how much oil you need to fill it. I took the effort of finding this answer for you. You 2AZ-FE engine requires 4.3 litres for a drain and fill including oil filter change. That is a personal choice. If you don't intend of giving your car a hard workout all the time, you can just stick with whatever brake fluid they use. I bring in my own brake fluid though when I get a service. My current brake fluid is Penrite Sin, but I'm thinking of changing it with TRW Lucas GP600 next service. Well you also have the power steering fluid, but they don't usually change that... just top it up.

Could also be due to me changing my stock intake around slightly. Like you said though, so many variables so it's near impossible to tell. Just like on the back of a Mortein can: "If you're onto a good thing.... stick with it".

Good stuff mate. Can't wait to see it done. Just wait till you get your first dose of supercharger whine in your own car.

You're only real option is to get a Vais SL2i iPod interface as mentioned here.

Ouch. That sucks Lee. I just don't understand how some people manage to still hold a licence. Hope everything gets repaired smoothly.

Well I've done it on my old Camry and it was only 'light swearing' difficulty. Then again, that was a 3S-FE. I reckon a V6 shouldn't be too bad... as long as the neighbours kids aren't around to hear some interesting words. When money is tight, it's amazing what one can be willing to try.

Nice work. Hopefully you get that SD card sorted out. If not, you can pick up like a 1GB one for like $10 these days. Also looks like you have the previous version of iGO8. That interface looks just like it from what I can remember. Last time I bothered to update mine, they were currently up to version number 8.3.2.80621 dated March 10, 2009. If you feel like experimenting, I have uploaded it as per this post. I have had a look at how the Camry dash disassembles and I think the way you have approached it is the correct. The Aurion has certain panels that are attached together unlike the Camry so my instructions probably wouldn't have helped much anyway.