DJKOR

I'm using these now: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Xenon-HID-Headlight-Kit-Slim-Ballast-H11-8000K-35W-12V-/140561922940?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ba24bb7c#ht_5776wt_1131

+ 1 again for that. Anyone with a bit of knowledge on how HID's work will understand that a cheap HID kit does not translate to a dodgy kit. HID's require a certain level of design to be able to work in the first place, and it is because of this that the cheap kits are able to function with reliable results. Some particular higher priced kits are capable of lasting longer than other cheaper kits, but you have to remember that that statement can also apply the other way around. I have seen cheap kits outlive more expensive kits and this all comes down to what they sell you. Remember, a more expensive kit can simply be a cheap kit with a large markup. The reason why you have HID ballasts that are better than other mainly comes down to the digital control circuitry built in that monitors the output to the lamp and adjusts it accordingly. Most, if not all of the slimline ballasts contain this control circuitry, so considering you can get these for under AUD$40-$50 delivered, then this is what you should decide to set your price range around. Don't try to buy into the whole DC vs AC ballast design (referring to the output to the lamp... not the input). If someone tries to convince you that their kit is better because it is AC and the competitors are DC, then all they are doing is trying to make a sale. For the sake of simplicity, I will not go into the specifics, but rest assured that an automotive HID ballast is AC.

Whilst this may be true for older cars, newer ones (new like 6 years back) utilise electronic fan speed control which is much more efficient at reducing the speed of the fan whilst reducing power being wasted as heat.

That's the drain hole from your Air Conditioner evaporator. If the air inside your car contains moisture, it will condense on the evaporator and then needs somewhere to drain. That would be where it does.

I'd connect it up behind the head unit if it's for the factory camera. That way it reduces the effort required as you don't have to splice the factory wiring. Bear in mind the kit I have linked to is a kit and requires you to solder it together. If you aren't sure how to do that, either find a mate that can do it for you or pay more for a pre-made version like this one.

The stock Toyota reversing cameras are indeed 6V. You're best bet is getting a DC-DC converter to change the 12V to th 6V required for the camera. I myself would use something like this for the application: Jaycar - Low Voltage Adaptor Kit.

There is always someone who does. Poor effort on commitment Branno.

it is a cruise, not a race Exactly. Plus I am carrying all my work gear (which includes a ladder) cause I can't be bothered removing it from the car.

Agree. An alco friend taught me that trick.

Once again, that's all marketing crap. Even these so called "DC ballasts" features an inverter. The term "ballast" when used for HID lights encompasses the entire assembly which consists of the inverter current regulator and control circuitry. Look, if you don't choose to believe that there are no DC automotive HID ballasts, then fair enough. Get yourself an "AC HID kit" and keep yourself satisfied. Another marketing strategy that is used is comparing two types of ballasts, one with more components than the other, typically calling the one with more components an "AC Ballast". In fact, the difference is not to do with AC and DC, it's to do with the feedback circuit built in. These "AC Ballasts" typically have digital PWM (pulse width modulation) feedback circuits which, surprise surprise, reduce flicker in the lamp. It has nothing to do with the output being AC which it already is regardless. This in fact is a benefit however, so it is something to consider. Just don't fall for sellers trying to suck you in with useless 'features' that they have.

I shall be there tonight.

Well if I am "TOTALLY WRONG", then please try to enlighten me as to how a HID ballast works... on a technical level. Also, please tell me how you reckon that the igniter can sometimes tell you more about the ballast? If you read my posts, the ignitor is mean to supply DC power for a short moment, so I don't know what else you would be looking for.

Yes. But you need to remove the airbag firstly. There are two Torx T30 screws located on either side of the steering wheel. Once you undo these, you can lift the airbag up allowing you to remove the controls with a Philips head screwdriver.

That's the beast. I was on my way home from Sanctuary Cove. After staring at a computer screen continuously, my colour interpretation was a bit off.

They don't really say. They would if they are up themselves in marketing etc, but otherwise you will be fine. If you read my post again (as I have edited it just then), you will see that most, if not all, are AC anyways.

The output is AC, not the input. You can still ground the negative lead as per normal. Where the AC comes into play is in how it operates the HID lamp. Instead of the electric arc inside the lamp "moving in one direction" in a DC setup, the arc is formed by AC current. This in turn results in equal deposits on each electrode and essentially can lead to longer lamp life. That said, a lot of people try to grab your attention by saying that their ballasts/lamps are AC and others are DC. Fact of the matter is, a lot of the kits are in fact AC, despite what others try to tell you. From a manufacturing perspective, it works out better for them to use AC anyway because the inverter in the ballast that produces the high voltage required for the lamp naturally outputs AC. Changing this to DC requires further components. That said again, the AC produced by all these ballasts are square wave AC. It is kind of like applying DC voltage to the lamps, but because it alternates anyways, the benefits are still there. In addition to that, true DC power is applied to the lamps in two stages. The first is at the ignition phase where a DC voltage of about 23kV is used to establish the arc (made possible with the use of Xenon in the lamp) and then for the first 16ms or so during warm up.

Oh yeah, yesterday around 3:24pm on the Pacific Motorway inbound at Loganholme, I spotted that white silver with pink everything Gen 5 Camry, nimber plates "APR72" or 76 or whatever.

The entire airconditioner assembly is different because, in case you aren't aware, the automatic climate control incorporates dual zone. This means, unlike the non-climate control models where the air mix is adjusted with a single vane, there are actually two air mix vanes that enable individual control of passenger and driver temperature. In addition to that, the control module is different as it has to perform more functions than the standard controls. Then there are the little things like a temperature sensor located under the steering wheel so that it can adjust the temperature as required.

Unless you have the resources to change out nearly all of the air conditioner components, then I would forget about it. The two systems have differences that go go beyond the controls.

The switch is part of the latch mechanism on the boot lid itself.

GDUBBS TRD Aurion

They are, but it doesn't meant they can't run differently to AAMI. & I donnu about you, but aren't AAMI quite slow? Slow at processing things? And you can ONLY go to their selected repairer? yeah they are slow, Humm, oh well... Never knew that, because I remember when Niks smacked his car, he got owned with aami three months for his car to come back... Insurance companies are always a mixed bag. I have had three claims sorted by AAMI in the past and on two of the occasions, they have had the car back to me in 1 and 1.5 weeks respectively. After making the claim too, they were available as soon as the next day for me to drop the car off at an assessment centre. The third claim took them a few weeks to get the cheque to my door, but I happened to make a claim at the same time there were storms etc happening and damaging houses etc, so I cut them some slack because others were experiencing greater problems than I was.

You could have had an answer already had you have searched. I found the following thread with the search term "remove stereo": How do you remove factory audio unit?

Yeah... but they tend to have higher premiums in the first place which kinda offsets the "no extra cost".

Get some Pedders Coilovers. Will solve your problem easy.