DJKOR

You mean that new WS Transmission Fluid? That stuff is designed to be changed... but after about 160,000kms I believe. You can usually tell if you have an auto box that uses that because when you try to find the transmission fluid dipstick, you won't find one. Edit: I looked at the service schedule for my Aurion and it only shows to change the transmission fluid at 90,000kms if the car is driven under 'extreme conditions'. Under normal conditions up to 210,000kms (the last service per logbook), it only has the transmission fluid listed as inspect and replace if required. I guess it is expected to last for ages under normal conditions.

Yeah, I always tend to dive into things without taking photos, then once it's all done, realise that I should have. As for my electronic parts etc, I usually find places online but if I don't have the patience, I just head into Jaycar.

A bit of a thread revival, but something relevant for those out there with the Auspack head units. Every so often I have a look over at the VW forum that was linked to earlier on in the thread by Sanz: Anyways, that thread has been a bit over-active with postings so I just usually skim through it, but after looking at it just then, I think I may have found some hope: Witson D720v - Menu's Now Editable It appears to be a different brand head unit but from the same manufacturer with the same menu style. I'm going to have a play with it later to see if I can finally make the UI look a little less cheap. Just thought I'd let you know in case you were interested in the idea. You probably won't hear back from me on this subject unless I manage to succeed in updating it, or I totally brick my unit. It's all a bit iffy at the moment given that my unit is one of the older ones.

Before I had a look, I thought the lighting effect would turn out bad because I would need to mount the LED's really low which would not really light up much. Then when I actually had a look there, I couldn't believe how lucky I was when I realised that I could easily mount some LED's up high enough to sufficiently light up the footwell. On my seats, I have a storage pocket which sticks out by a small amount. This was the perfect area to place the LED strip:

I haven't heard of any that are available here in Australia. As far as I'm aware, the Australian market is a little behind on receiving stuff like this. The Us market has had updates already for things like gear changes (even though they have been said to do nothing), but no word about a VSC type update. I do agree that the VSC in the Aurion could do with a little improvement though. Last time I put my car in for a service, I asked if they had any ECU updates and they said that there was nothing available for my car. This could simply have been that service department though. After the service, I could swear my VSC was working slightly better and I thought maybe they did so some update, but I think I narrowed this down to the fact that my brake fluid was changed and the lines were freshly bled. On a side note, I find my VSC has been less responsive now though ever since I changed my tires to something better and installing a front strut brace and new rear sway bar. Now it just likes to take a break and only wakes up when things get seriously out of control.

I have a scuff plate (or whatever) underneath there, but this secures on to the rear skirt. I believe that if you don't have the rear skirt, you won't have anywhere for the panel to attach to. This is what mine looks like underneath: I do remember seeing something in the service manual that relates to this. It may be for the Camry, but the general idea is there:

Aren't those like 55 litre tanks? Even if it were a 60 litre tank and you filled it up to filling point, you would have had to have a just about empty tank. My filler neck only holds about 1.5 litres at the most, so that is starting to look a bit strange. Same servo? Maybe you have a tank that got over inflated in the blow mould. I think it's as a safety margin thing, just in case you are stuck on a highway or something. The funny thing is, many people realise the margin that is present, but don't really care too much about adjusting it. For the others, they may never even realise that they still have a bit of fuel left in the tank. There's not simple way I can think of adjusting it to come on later except for either adjusting the fuel tank float, or modifying the signal that the gauge receives. Personally, I don't care too much. I just wait till it says empty then drive for another 50km or so.

Nah man, just keeping you up to date with the times :P Goes to show that the 2GR-FE has been worked on that long ago and no-one else has stepped up to the challenge.

Thanks for the comments guys. I'm a bit of an electronics nut and like the look of LED lighting. Plus I like to keep my car clean, so the lighting really shows. As for a DIY, there is nothing much to it; plus I didn't take photos of the procedure and I'm pretty crap with written instructions. All I did was find where the dome light wiring terminated at the fuse panel behind the glove box then extended two wires from there to a switch that I mounted in the drivers side footwell. From there I just ran wires to each position where the LED's were to be mounted and then I connected it all up. Well, the brightness of each footwell light in the front is equal in brightness to my dome light, and the fact that they sit close to the floor make it look even brighter. Because of this the camera auto exposes to the footwell lighting. Point and shoot camera limitations. The dome light itself is actually fairly bright. It provides enough illumination to be able to read a refidex, etc. When I get the chance though, I am going to put in another LED set into the dome light to make it brighter.

I understand the frustration that one can get with a twisted seat belt. You can sometimes spend a good length of time just trying to get it to go the right way again. I've never really come across a situation though where it has managed to fold and jam itself within the buckle or the upper shoulder anchor assembly. Usually a good hard tug from one way or the other is good to clear it up. It sounds like you may need to remove the 'upper centre pillar garnish' (as they call it) to be able to give you more room to work with. If you want to get an idea of what it all looks like in service manual form, these would be the two manuals you'd be looking for: Seat Belt (alternate link) Interior Trim (alternate link) Just remember, if it gets to the point that you need to take the seat belt assembly out, remember to disconnect the battery and wait 90 seconds before unplugging everything because those are SRS pre-tensioner seat belts. Good luck.

I had a bit of free time earlier today and I thought I would fix my passenger side footwell light. Long story short, some time ago I had installed footwell lights, but for the front only. A couple of weeks back, my passenger side light strip was kicked off, and never seen again (I don't know how that happened). Anyways, I went out today and bought some more LED modules to replace that missing one and since I had a few modules spare, I thought I would finally put some in the back which I had previously neglected. This is a pretty much useless addition to the car, but nevertheless it was something to fill in time, cure my boredom, and it barely cost anything to do. So this is the end result, just mind me cause I didn't vacuum the car before hand. Now the colour between the front and the back looks a little different on the photos, but in real life, they are both very, very close to the same colour (and if more white like the rear ones). It's just because the front and the back have different style LED's, and the camera somehow manages to capture the fine differences, together with the fact that there are more LED's at the front and the difference in brightness somehow affects it as well. And with the dome light off, you can see that they are definitely footwell lights because it only lights that area up. If you were to have them on while driving, you get no glare and they are not distracting at all. I always leave the switch set so that they come on together with the dome light. I rarely find a need to over-ride that and turn them on just on their own. But if I had to, it would still be safe to drive with.

I could give some basic instructions, but this will explain it so much better than I can: Gen 6 Camry Service Manual - Lighting (alternate link) Pages 73 to 76 describe the process as well as the location of the adjustment screw. Bear in mind that this manual is for the US market, so your headlight cut-off will be a mirror image.

... Is it really new? 2GR-FE Toyota 3.5L 2GR-FE Twin turbo = 600KW That thing is as old as June 2007 :P

Usually the generic ballasts that offer this feature have it advertised. There aren't too many out there now with this feature, and most of the ones that don't have it advertised are the OEM ones like Philips and Bosch (the real ones). The only 'simple' way around this issue that you have would be to turn the lights on after you start your engine. Of course this is not practical as it defeats the purpose of the auto feature. If you really wanted a way to do this, and know your way with electronics, you could solve this for about $10-15. All you have to do is put a relay with N/C contacts in line with the power for the HID ballasts. Then you have the relay trigger from the 'charge' indicator in the speedo cluster. When the engine is off, the dash cluster gets a connection to ground to activate the 'charge' indicator. If you have a constant +12v on one side of the relay coil, and the other side connected to the ground point on the dash cluster, this means that when your engine is off and the charge light is on, the contacts on the relay would open up and the HID's won't turn on. Once the engine starts however, the charge light will turn off and therefore the relay would deactivate and the HID's would operate. Obviously you can see though that if your alternator fails, then your HID's would turn off, but you can easily create an override for that.

That was all so soon. You only just got the coilovers as well. Thanks for trialling out the coilovers though so that other know that they will fit. It was also lucky (in a way) that you had that top mount issue so that others as well can tell if something is not right if they get a set that happens to be the same. As well, thanks for the guide on pulling off the bumper since no one else has taken photos of that procedure yet. Enjoy your change in ride.

Yep, they sure are. Thanks for posting that as well. Made it so much easier when I had to get myself some new brake pads in a hurry yesterday. If you do paint them white, you do realise they will get dirty easily right. Yeah, lucky for this thread as well, I could go through the process of bleeding my brakes after I changed my pads, without worrying about stuffing up the ABS.

That's one of the reasons I don't have my lights set to auto mode. HID's will live a better life when they are run for as long as possible at the correct power. If you have them on when you start the car, the starter motor takes a good chunk of the power and even though the ballast can still feed power to the lamp, it is not overly healthy for it. That said though, you should be relatively safe but I still like to be on the safe side (considering I do have a cheap HID kit). The only way around it is to either get a HID kit that has decent ballasts with voltage stabilisation for engine startup, or to build in an isolated voltage stabiliser. These circuits mainly consist of capacitors to help fill in the gap when the engine is starting, but you'd need something fairly decent as it needs to cover the couple of seconds that are required to start the engine. For what it's worth though, I would either turn your Auto lights off if your concerned, but otherwise you'll be fine.

I'M EXCITED (said in Big Kev style). The drive is going to be epic, but at least I'll be there with QLD plates on to represent.

Absolutely. You just use a line out converter (also called a high to low converter). Depending on how good your ears are, you can get cheap units through to expensive units. All Aurion's are identical in terms of interior dimensions. All grades use the exact same speakers, so those dimensions are valid for your AT-X.

Firstly, where did you find Aurion LED door sills? Secondly you have two options. If I was to do it, I'd connect each one to the corresponding door corner light. This means you need to run wires into each door. This keeps the installation neater as both wires (positive and negative) go to the same spot and will save you from running additional +12v lines to each door (if you wanted to ground it through the door switch). This method will also mean that each door sill will only turn on with the corresponding door. The other method as you said would be to use the dome light. You can do this either at the light itself or the only other place where the wire runs to is behind the glove box, and it's a tricky one to get to.

LOL. Nice one mate. I just wanted to make it there in one piece you know. I don't think I have had any Kransky before, but I'm sure I could eat a lot of it.

With that fuel economy talk aside as that is something different, CES does have an in-house dyno and they will be able to show gains should they make something.

I am so excited about this. I so can't wait. Just changing my brake pads has got me all fired up.... even though it's irrelevant.

I see "Turbocharged Evo" is lurking. Can't decide yet eh?

I'm still sitting here with my brakes pulled apart waiting for my sister so I can drive to get some brake pads. But I'll definitely be there for sure. Edit: Brakes are all fitted and bedded in. Sure feels more confident than before.