DJKOR

Well it's either that or the mesh grill. If you don't want to get it from eBay or Bodykits Kingdom, then you have to source it yourself from overseas. If you don't like the design, then you aren't going to find anything else that is already made to fit.

Um... alrighty then. www.ebay.com.au/itm/130603309961

I'd have to agree with Andrew. They are pretty much on par with each other. That front lower grill is hideous. The current Camry, especially the Atara has a fantastic front end on comparison. Different strokes for different folks. Their designs don't seem to be affecting their market, so it works for them.

I has a good memory. There was some discussion initially: http://au.toyotaowne...-v6-tarago-glx/ Wouldn't happen to be this guy would it?

Good luck with that. I hate to bear bad news, but I think you will find that they don't exactly sell that individual piece on its own. It is part of the entire assembly referred to as: 67610-06751: BOARD SUB-ASSY, FRONT DOOR TRIM, RH 67620-06660: BOARD SUB-ASSY, FRONT DOOR TRIM, LH http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2007_TOYOTA_AURION_GSV40R-JETGKQ_6701.2.html You can tell this is the case because the part number for the entire assembly varies between the different grades of Aurion.

10 seconds to find this on eBay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130603309961

Yeah. Good luck to that seller. Especially considering it is a "Buy It Now" price. Even though they may be in excellent condition, I don't think their demand is that great. Couldn't even offload mine at $750 with tires. That said, the silver ones aren't as popular as the gunmetal ones. Put it on eBay though and got $830.

Nup. That's about the average of them.

That said however, I do hear good things about Nulon products. They may very well do the job however I am usually one to stick with what I know has worked for me. I'll probably be keeping my Aurion for a while and if it reaches the point where the coolant starts to look like it is getting contaminated due to wear and tear on the engine, I'd probably switch to Nulon. This is a bit of an interesting topic. Even though most of these manufacturers these days keep saying things like "sealed for life" etc etc, no oil is going to last forever. Because of all this, there really isn't any service interval defined. Whilst I would like to believe that the transmission fluid is good for such a long time, part of me does not trust such claims. I myself would prefer to change the transmission fluid every 90,000-100,000 km just to be on the safe side. On that note though, I am currently up to 150,000km and am yet to change mine. I don't like the idea of changing just the fluid and not the filter together with it so that's the one part holding me back. There are two bolts holding the transmission sump on which are blocked by the engine sub-frame. I have limited resources available at home. The procedure itself is pretty specific (it's posted somewhere here) so I don't particularly trust anyone but Toyota to approach this one, and seeing that I don't really want to pay Toyota to do it, I am limited by myself pretty much. When that time comes though, this is one of those moments where I am going to move away from the tried and tested and start using Penrite ATF FS.

Well first things first, the initial coolant change is 150,000km (which was 5 years for me in response to your question) and then every other coolant change after that is at 75,000km. The Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC) is quite good and does exactly what it's meant to do and considering the long time between changes, I don't see any reason to use anything else. You would probably only save about $20-$25 per coolant change (Toyota SLLC works out to be about $10/litre retail in the 5 litre bottles) so when you work it out for a car that travels average k's, it's like $1 per month that you are saving. I personally would stick to the Toyota coolant but each to their own.

Shame that posts in the Club Lounge don't add to your post count then :P

Bit late for this, but this forum does not support the illegal sharing of licensed software. Content has been removed to comply with the Forum Terms and Conditions.

Most of these cases are the VVTi controller as already discussed. This is why that "solution" of revving to 2k RPM before you shut down the engine helps in some cases: Rattle on engine start That's what I'm thinking. It seems to be coming from the upper part of the block. It's similar to the sound of that intake control valve closing, but more metallic. It just has me stumped. Maybe it really is the VVT-i mechanism. When you see a video animation of it working, you can kind of picture how it can generate a knock/rattle sound if it doesn't have appropriate oil pressure in it. The mechanism is like this for those that don't know: Having a quick look at the service manual, maybe it ties in with the so called 'lock pin':

Ive tried holding the revs at 2k for a second or two just before I turn the car off, unfortunately the sound still there. Ahhh Same as well. I just find an oil and filter change makes the issue go away. It always happens pretty much at the same time for me (~11,000km) so I just see it as a sign that the oil and filter need to be changed if I haven't done so already. I don't see the point in trying to just prevent the issue with that procedure above when the oil is at the point where it should be changed anyways.

Good luck with the sale. If I had a Corolla, I'd certainly be putting consideration into that.

Yeah. Wasn't getting many hits on here and Gumtree so put it on the good ol' eBay. Buyer picked them up this morning.

So do I mate. So do I.

And a few more because I love my car: © Apex Photo 2012 © Apex Photo 2012 © Apex Photo 2012

A few photos from the Downshift Circuit & Coffee meet the other day: © Track Photos © Track Photos

Damn that front end looks mean.

Nothing is stopping you from painting them.

Took the TRD for some happy laps today at QR organised by Downshift and Club High Rollers. Had about 100 or so cars attend and got pretty busy in the corners but was good down the straights to open her up. Wasn't there for times or records, just for some fun. Some shaky video of the first lap:

Even my 1991 Camry had fuses in the footwell area. You sure you don't have any either? This diagram seems to indicate that you would: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2003_TOYOTA_COROLLA_ZZE123R-GHFQFN_8401.3.html

Have a look though the Aurion forum for more information with regards to oils. There has been quite a lot of discussion on this one. 10W30 is just the recommended oil as per the manual for the car. This does not mean that you can not use a different grade of oil within specification (as stated in the manual) depending on the conditions the car is driven in.