DJKOR

Well if you guys were looking at trying, you can pick up an Aurion motorised mirror assembly with indicator from Toyota for about $66.50 + $35 for an unpainted backing panel. All I know is that the Aurion mirrors fit perfectly on the Gen 6 Camry as a few guys over in the States have done that a while back. For their assistance, I sourced the part locally here and got them prices. Anyways, if you want to get them from Toyota the part numbers are: RH Side: 87910-06906 LH Side: 87940-06906

That is very true. Just a fact to others, you can overpower a speaker (to a certain limit) provided you can keep the voice coil cool. Kind of the same concept of over-clocking a PC that is kept really cool. BTW: Thanks for quoting me Mick. That's some great advice there, LOL.

The service manuals will contain the Electrical Wiring Diagrams, but the hard part is finding one available online. If you did choose to go this option, you would have to make sure you can find an Australian version as the wiring can differ from country to country. It's always safer to test these out with a multimeter to prevent breaking something. As far as I'm aware, the service manuals for the new generation Australian Corolla aren't yet uploaded online. If worst comes to worst, you can always tap into the front or rear speakers at the actual speakers themselves.

There is a common colour code out there in relation to car audio wiring. Some line out converters follow this, some don't. Regardless, nearly ALL car manufactures don't follow any international standard and therefore the line out converter will not match, even if it does use the standard colour code. You need to find out what wires are for which speakers first.

If you don't get wire taps, then all you do is simply pull back some insulation on the speaker wires going to the head unit, then solder in the wires from the line out converter. Quite simple in that regard. Wire taps are easier though for most people. You find those at Repco and hte likes. As for the wire colours, if you don't want to search for them yourself (a multimeter and 1.5v battery are useful at doing this), then you will need someone else who knows the wiring on the Corolla.

For obvious safety reasons, the gear selection indicator next to the lever has illumination. You will find that it is illuminated by a T5 wedge bulb. Bulbs do blow, so all you need to do is take apart the centre console section and replace the bulb.

Um... the whole purpose of getting the line out converter is because you DON'T have a subwoofer output on your head unit. You will be using the line out converter to 'mirror' either your front or rear speakers and convert them into RCA connections that are compatible with your amplifier, then you will run the RCA leads to your amp an set the Low Pass Filter so that it will only play your bass.

For your subwoofer setup you just need a basic line out converter. They come in a two-channel form. You simply connect two wires in parallel with one speaker, and two wires parallel with another. Front or rear; whichever one you use more on the fader control. From the line out converter to the amp, you simply run RCA leads.

As in you just 'tap' off from the speaker wires. The best way to think of it is with a good 'ol series vs. parallel diagram: The diagram on the left is series, and the one on the right is parallel. Just think of your speaker as one bulb and the line converter as the other.

Well if want a sealed enclosure and am not after anything that has been perfectly tuned, then you can pick up a box at Autobarn or the likes. In most cases, no. The converter is installed parallel so simple wire taps would do, otherwise you can do what I did and mount it in the boot and solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals of the rear speakers... if you have speakers on your parcel shelf.

The line level converter will not put a noticeable load onto your existing speakers. With it in place, you wouldn't even know it's there. What you put on the other side of it is what matters. For a simple subwoofer setup, the quality will be good enough for most people. With only the short range of frequency it needs to cover with the bass, and the fact that it is so low as well, you wouldn't really need to worry about the quality. If you are using it to feed amplifiers for replacement speakers however, there is the potential for it to sound not so great, but this all comes down to how good your ears are. Most people in general would not notice the difference.

Just for you, I took my head unit out and took some measurements. When you look at the car side of the wiring harness you will see three connectors. The following is in reference to it when you are looking into the socket of the plug itself. Using the colours you can reference them. For the stereo, you will only need connectors 1 and 2. If you want to integrate the steering wheel buttons through the use of an external controller, then connector 3 has been included for reference. Only the wires present have been included: Connector 1: 1 - Light Green - Speaker: Front Right Positive (+) 2 - Pink - Speaker: Front Left Positive (+) 3 - Grey - +12v ACC 4 - Blue/Yellow - +12v Constant 5 - Blue - Speaker: Front Right Negative (-) 6 - Purple - Speaker: Front Left Negative (-) 7 - Brown - Ground 8 - Orange - Antenna Power (+12v to power antenna amplifier) 10 - Dark Green - Illumination (+12v when tail lights on) Connector 2: 1 - Red - Speaker: Rear Right Positive (+) 2 - Black - Speaker Rear Left Positive (+) 3 - White - Speaker: Rear Right Negative (-) 6 - Yellow - Speaker Rear Left Negative (-) Connector 3: 3 - Purple - Speed signal (used for ASL in stock unit) 6 - Pink - Steering control ground 7 - Orange - Steering control signal (for SEEK and VOL) 8 - Yellow - Steering control signal (for MODE) Don't be fooled by connector 2. It may have thicker gauge wire and have Red, Black, and Yellow wires which are commonly used to power a head unit, but these are speaker connections only. I hope that helps for now, and good luck. Edit: This thread has been added to the FAQ's now.

LOL.

Looking at your car in that photo makes me think you can drop it lower. Hate to see what mine would have looked like from that view.

For sure I'd be up for it Drew. Nothing beats some drinks with a good mate.

Have you contacted the Thai guys to see if they can offer a discounted shipping price? Also, I guess this would serve as an EOI because I think they will want to stick by the rules of Group Buys here. Either way, you should PM a mod to see if you are able to do such.

I'd say you are getting a bad feeling about the fact you need to go to extra effort (and lying) to sort out your TAFE exam. Can't you do a re-sit? That's what we did if we missed an exam, LOL. Also, I'd be a bit careful about saying such a thing on a public forum. That smell will go away over a day or two; nothing to be worried about there. I used to get buyers remorse all the time, but it's happened so much I barely notice it now unless its a lot of money involved. I have a bad habit of doing too much spending and not enough saving. To make the feeling go away you can do what I do and go for a night out on the turps, or hook up with someone... or kill two birds with the one stone and do both.

Welcome to the club Daniel. Another Brissy member. As I say to every one else local to the area; you should stop around one night for our (almost) weekly meets.

That's probably a figure quoted at the wheels. If so, then it can be believable.

Yeah. It's mainly a US feature. They look more amber than your headlights simply because when you run a halogen bulb at low power, it tends to go towards a yellow colour. The only cars in Australia that I can ever recall having DRL are the old school Volvo's. I think the concept behind it is that you will always be seen when you have them on. I kind of find it pointless in my opinion. I don't know why they still have it in the States.

Looks good mate. What exhaust have you got there? They fit really nicely. As for filling in the reflectors, I'd suggest not to, but that's just me. I reckon the bumper would look too large and empty without them and seem a bit out of place.

I've done it once or twice in my Aurion from having to enter the highway nearby in the morning, etc. It doesn't seem to have done any damage, but only time will tell. If it's anywhere near as durable as my old Camry, I think it would be fine. I used to flog that car... now that thing was indestructible. Still no problems with 300,000km on the clock. Not that I'm saying it's fine, just that these engines are fairly hardy if you ever happened to do that. But to keep with the original question, you will be fine to drive your car gently until it warms up.

It all comes down to the cop really. Some let it slide... others don't. I've passed cops and seen many others pass cops when I/they have their fog lights on, and haven't been stopped for it. I've even seen some cops themselves using fog lights in clear weather condition. Daytime Running Lamps are a little different to fog lights. DRL's are usually your high beam running at like 20-30% power or there abouts. When you fit these LED lights, I think they would be classified under fog lights even though they aren't beneficial as such. Thanks... it's alright

That one comes off the Queensland Transport Website. I'm sure if you search the website of yoru local Transport Authority, you will be bound to find similar results. As a matter of fact, I did that for you: http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person...pdfs/Info27.pdf Doesn't say anything about the conditions of using them though.

My manual also states as well to not let the car idle to warm up, but rather to drive it instead. I reckon this is more biased towards reducing emissions. At cold, the oil will still be circulating though and doing it's job (the reason behind a multi-viscosity oil), so as long as you take it easy, you should be fine. After starting my car, I usually wait for the idle revs to drop to about 1000 RPM before putting it into gear and driving off. On a cold start, the revs can go as high as 2000 RPM on my Aurion and at that point it doesn't feel like a smart time to put it into gear. Once it hits 1000 though, it gets a little quieter and seems more suitable. I then drive gently trying not to go higher than 2500-3000 RPM, and it will usually warm up after a good couple of kilometres. By the way, that ad you were referring to was the Castrol Magnatec ads.