DJKOR

That attached picture is of the motor for the windscreen wipers.

yeh rip job....easy to DIY on your black car not mine lol fair enuff... Good thing u know it's a rip job... DIY-ing it to any colour shouldn't be too hard once we know how to do it.. ;) I think colour matching requires a little too much skill which I don't possess. When the time comes around, I'm going to get my front lip re-sprayed, so I'll throw the eyelids in as well.

Yes... I definitely want more information on what piggyback you are running. Would be great to hear the power output with it on as well when you get the chance. Those plates look familiar (NO1 BOSS). I swear I've seen it before online possibly on Car Sales. Can't remember if that was the place though.

Having some difficulty posting with the correct formatting there Kumar? For the contact details, why not look at: "The TOCAU Aurion FAQ". The very first question and answer has the details you need.

What can you do? Of course there are going to be others that spend their money in ways which one wouldn't approve, but there is no need to have a go at them for it. Yes, I know I'm not performance minded and want to turn my car into the most powerful machine it can be, but that's just me. Why does there need to be a problem with that? Anyways, I don't see why this topic needs argument or negativity. I wouldn't say it fit perfectly as if it were perfectly when compared to the stock muffler. Make adjustments for it to fit? It was simply put up into the area where it was going to stay and then welded into place, pretty much like any aftermarket muffler would be.

1. Silvabullit - Kombi 2. ELEGNT - Aurion 3. SupaTouring - TRD Aurion 4. SecaBoy - TRD Aurion 5. DJKOR - Aurion 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

That's a nice, and very clean Sportivo you've got there. Welcome to the club. You should come along to our (mostly) weekly meets.

Despite the fact that they look like they are hanging lower, the centreline of the tip is only a very slight amount lower than the stock ones. It's just because of the muffler design that there is some extra muffler body towards the ground. It doesn't look as serious as the picture shows. As well, I've gone over varying surfaces and speed bumps and it clears it perfectly fine. But I completely agree that it 'looks' too low. I would say because you can see so much shininess on the muffler body itself, it stands out obviously. I'm not a fan of shiny stainless steel muffler bodies, so nothing a little matt black can't resolve:

Now I'm not here to get flames for this, so if you want to go on about how crap it is and whatnot, just don't bother saying so here. I know there is a lot of negativity towards these mufflers, so no need to emphasise that. Anyways, I thought I would chime in and add my photos. Like I said, I was not going to settle for the cannon Varex, so I bought some oval ones and hoped for the best.I was meant to get my Varex fitted on Friday, but Pipeworx refused to even try it stating "we have already tried to put those on an Aurion with no success. We have tried every possible way of fitting it and it just wouldn't work". I don't like taking no for an answer so I got a second opinion from the guys at Right Price Exhausts just near work and they said they can do it. For cutting/welding and whatnot, Right Price have been good for me before, so I have no issues with them. After getting home and plugging it all in and coving the cables in loom to prevent them cooking, I drove around for a bit. The end result is that when the valve is closed, it sounds on par with the stock exhaust. With the valve open though, it sounds a little louder, kind of like the Super Cat resonators that Rowan and Elgin have had fitted. The only difference is that there is absolutely no drone inside the car. I've sat in Elgin's before and around the 2000-2500 RPM mark, it feels like its making more noise inside the car than outside. Not the case with the Varex. The one thing however, is that when it is fully open, it is comparably more quiet than when I had my cutout placed just behind the resonator. I'm guessing this is because the exhaust has to travel through some more pipe, plus the construction of the Varex has a little bit of baffling in the straight pipe section. In this context, I kind of miss my cutout. I guess I may need to remove the resonator next then. Anyway, enough with the chatter, on with the photos. Yes I know it would be better if it were a little higher, but this is as high as it can go: I could take some video later, but the video at the beginning of this thread is just about the same.

Sweet. Thanks for that. I've been craving some extra-hot Peri Peri for quite a while (5 days back in Darwin, lol). More than enough reason to get some Nandos for lunch tomorrow then.

Well don't take too much time eh. After all, your brakes are part of the safety for your car. Without the vacuum booster, it can be quite a bit of force needed to slow the car down. You can never predict what may happen.

I don't think that was me, but I sure as hell had a good laugh at it. When I saw it, I dashed home (not far) and got my decent camera. I attempted to take photos while driving around, but that didn't work so I parked my car and took some better photos. It was certainly a unique sight. Not something you see every day.

Well, all the booster does is give you mechanical advantage for your brakes. By not fixing it, if any other seal goes bust in it, your brakes are going to be hard to apply every time. It just means you will have to apply the brakes harder and most likely increase your stopping distance. Do you ever have anything a little more useful to say? I'm getting tired of this "take it to the workshop" etc in many of your responses. Sometimes others would like opinions into the issues they are having. It may be something that could easily be resolved, or it may be useful for those that aren't as knowledgeable in cars so that some dealer doesn't try to rip them off. It's like you are building up posts so you can sell something... or really trying to advertise the VW CC.

The brake is difficult to apply only if I fully hold on the brake for 10 seconds. It can also be difficult to apply if I keep stepping on the brake on & off, on & off, and so on, then at some point it will be difficult to apply. The primary indicator that I was looking for was whether it was difficult to apply after just pressing and holding it once. All brakes will get harder to press after each consecutive press when the engine is off. After about 5 presses, it would have lost all it's vacuum. But if yours loses it after holding it on the first press, then that indicates a possible leak. The rpm does not go up and down when i play with the brake pedal, but the idle does sound funny only at the first star up of the day. Do you guys think the vacuum/ brake booster or its hose has a leak? Does it sound like it’s a job for Toyota mechanics? How much $$$ do you guys think it’s going to cost me? Most cars will be a little different when you start it up, so nothing to worry about there. I would say the leak is not in the vacuum hose itself, but the seal on the diaphragm in the brake booster. When you press on the brakes, one side of the diaphragm is opened up to the atmosphere and sealed from the vacuum while the other side remains under vacuum. If the seal is stuffed, the side that is opened up to the atmosphere will not be sealed fully from the vacuum, hence the whistling sound. I'm not to sure about how much that is going to cost to replace.

I suspected that because he did have those plans... but I haven't seen him for that long that I don't know if he went ahead and did it.

huh? mine will red-line every time i push it. Works fine for me. It's just a case of learning how to use it. B) He means that you need to upshift once your revs are at about 5,500 RPM. Due to the lag, it will change gears close to redline then. If you are WOT and upshift past about 5,500 RPM, the engine will rev limit once or twice before finally shifting gears. Mine does exactly the same.

You don't GET them like that. You either take the plunge and buy yourself some LED's, pull apart your headlights and DIY, or you put down a few hundred bucks (maybe more) and get someone to custom make them for you. I don't know anyone in Brisbane who can do it for you, but it would have to be someone similar to Autojoy.

I think you may have just missed out. apg39 did as well though, and I'm sure there may be others out there wanting some. So if this turns out well, a second group buy may be in order.

Bunnings mate. Or any home improvement store really.

I reckon it would be hard to make that judgement unless we get news of other people that had the same issue. JIN may have been a once off... but then again, what are the chances that he got the one that didn't pass final inspection.

To me that sounds like a leak in the vacuum booster for your brakes. One thing you can do is turn your car off with your foot off the brake. Then apply your brakes (something like half way even more) and hold for about 5 to 10 seconds, then release fully. Now apply your brakes fully. Does it feel rather difficult to apply? If your vacuum booster is fine, it should remain relatively easy to apply on the second press in that case. Just to be sure as well, when your car is running you should get someone to apply your brakes while you have a listen in the engine bay to try and locate where it is coming from just to narrow it down.

The MAF sensor is the air flow meter, hence its name MassAir Flow sensor. My answer would be pretty basic in that you just remove the MAF and spray it clean with contact cleaner or MAF sensor cleaner, then let it dry and put it back in. However for a more in depth talk about it, there is some advice over in the thread 'cleaning MAF Sensor'.

Your replies really puzzle me man; especially when you check into threads just saying to take it to the service department or ask Toyota, etc. I see you have another screen name as well which has the exact same links in your signature. Something seems out of place if you ask me, especially after this comment:

1. DJKOR 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Actually, SupaTouring here found a much closer match to those rims that were on the prototype TRD Aurion: I believe the prototype wheels are g.max 'bona fide' G.Max Website . They are in rack one.