DJKOR

Those are mad plates. Nice one.

By looking at the tread pattern alone, the Pirelli Dragon looks to be more of an all-season tire. Will provide good all-round traction and economy. The Adrenalin's on the other hand have a more aggressive pattern. If you were to do some spirited driving, I would put more faith into the Adrenalin.

That is correct. Metallic based tinting CAN interfere with the radio reception and it is advised to steer away from that option if possible. But in regards to that discussion earlier, the Midnight Express is a metallic based tint and I was confirming that with my Aurion, I have had no noticeable differences to my reception.

Wrong wrong wrong wrong. Don't post if you don't know what they hell you're talking about. +1 on suggestions from this guy. This guy really does know his stuff. You always were better than me with the electronics weren't you Drew. Bob would be proud.

The most recent units run WinCE 5.0. Mine was made prior to that and runs WinCE 4.3. I have tried TomTom on it and could not get it to work. The SD card supplied by Auspacks only comes with Route66 and Finean, both of which are pretty boring. TomTom is alright and I use that on my phone, but in the car, I'm not really a fan of it. I chose iGO8 because it was the easiest to obtain and get to work, and I like the interface.

Yeah, that one will be fine. That's the one I use. You can cut the clay bar up into 4 pieces and put them into a Zip Lock bag with a few sprays of Quick Detailer inside. That way you can clay your car up to 4 times. If you run out of Quick Detailer, you can easily pick up some more. Just make sure you keep the surface well lubricated when you use the clay bar. Nothing annoys me more during that process when the clay bar hits a dry spot and sticks while your hand slips off it. Applying polish and wax after a proper clay treatment is heaven. The smoothness of the application is impossible to explain. It feels like waxing ice, but smoother.

Yup, the fuel economy gets reset every time you re-fill. Mine has gone up as high as about 43 litres/100km after a fill. Usually it should go down after about 0.5km of driving though, depending on how you leave the petrol station. My radio reception with the Midnight Express is from my own personal experience. It is not a guarantee that yours won't do the same. I went in not really caring if I lost my reception or not. If it concerned me that much, I would just find a way to mount a hidden antenna such as in the spoiler.

As far as I'm aware, I've only seen/heard of TRDLover upgrading his grounding in the engine bay. Have a look at his 10th photo here. The grounding in the engine bay does appear to be a combination of 8, 12, and 14 gauge wiring to me, but that stuff has thinner insulation so the actual wire gauge may be different to what it appears. How many points of grounding that are already there, or how many should you add? I'm not too sure how many are currently there by standard, but there doesn't seem to be a lot that is visible. I haven't got the time right now to count everything up. Your best option is to just add to them and not replace them. A good start would be to run 4 gauge from your negative battery terminal to the engine block, and a short length of 2 gauge from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis. The 4 gauge run should only need about 0.5 metres and the 2 gauge run, about 0.25 metres. Try to keep this length as short as possible. If you want to use your existing cable and don't have 2 gauge, you will need to just do this with multiple lengths of cable. Two to three lengths of 4 gauge should be sufficient for the 2 gauge run. That should be more than sufficient for the grounding, but it does no harm having extra room to play with. Plus, if you are already having issues with your lights dimming, then you must be running quite some load there. You can get solder or crimp ring terminals from Jaycar. Repco also stock Narva crimp terminals, but those are only useful up to about 10 gauge.

The wheel alignment may or may not fix up your pulling to the left issue. In most cases, it is a caster issue and can only be correctly rectified by a SPF2904K kit from SuperPro/Fulcrum Suspension. We had a good discussion about that over here: Wheel alignment specs The stock 17 inch Michelin Energy MXV8's seem to go well with a tire pressure of 34 PSI all round. That's what I used though and got about 48,000km out of them with some pretty hard driving. 7,500km rotation is a good idea as well. My car has the Midnight Express tint. I have absolutely no problems with FM radio reception. It does seem that my AM reception has gone down slightly, but it's not something that bothers me. I play MP3's all the time anyways.

Yeah, the fuel light does come on with about 10 litres left in the tank. I've managed to squeeze 94km out of mine once the Cruising Range hit 0km. A safe number if you ever need to run past empty is about 50km. Also, check out more discussion here: Fuel tank and gauge accuracy Fuel Warning Light

I got your PM and replied to that. Soz; work is really full on these days. I can't float around the board like I used to. Since sharing is caring, I'll put my PM here as it is an answer for this thread here:

True. That reminds me of this show/documentary (don't remember what) on SBS. There was some guy in somewhere there in Asia and he was talking about his son getting a great job and being able to buy a car. Then it showed his son driving to see his Dad who was extremely impressed with his car and 'status'. The car.... a black Camry (Aurion shape).

I hate to say it, but this option is going to involve a lot of waiting. I don't think there are many people out there that can be bothered to work that stuff out. If people were that concerned about figuring stuff out for the Aurion, we would have more performance parts first.

I really love the beep of the Aurion. It sounds classy. But I must say, whenever I pop the boot, it sounds like my meal is ready. My mates all say the same. If you wanted to remove the beeper and put a chirping alarm horn in, the beepers are located in each headlight. At the rear of the headlight you will see two wires entering it. Just cut these and connect it directly to an alarm siren piezo.

I reckon that you can fit 22 inch rims on, but to keep it from looking like a Matchbox car, you need the correct profile tire. Like everyone has said, you will have to search hard and spend big. The tires would most likely cost as much or more than the rims themselves.

Damn. That projector cutoff is what I love to see. Nothing beats a true HID projector. In regards to that though, you do need to have the correct HID projector for RHD vehicles. The projector cutoff is not something you can adjust at the back of the assembly. The cutoff is achieved through a metal plate (cutoff shield) inside the projector that determines the beam shape. You can modify this if you really wanted to; it's just not going to be easy. Just an example of what said cutoff shield:

I wonder how it would look with a darker tint and blacked out headlights. Hmmm.

Not quite as full of knowledge when it comes to that. I was lucky enough to get my grill in a joint purchase. My knowledge on the subject is that it is from a place called R-Style Racing. The order process involves sending an email speaking in as clear English as possible that you would like to buy a 'new Camry mesh sports grill'. You are best attaching a photo of the product you are after to make it easier from them to understand. The contact information is over at: http://www.rstyleracing.com/?sp=GMWEB-0611...mp;id=ContactUs When our order went through, the guy BONDIE was speaking to was Ying Ying. It would be good to talk to him as he would probably be aware of the ordering, but I don't know if he is still there or anything and probably may be best to not mention his name to reduce confusion. In you email, ask if you can have a price and how to pay. Mentioning PayPal may help as well. If you agree, let them know you would like to buy it then arrange payment. Once it is all paid for, you should receive it in about a weeks time.

Pretty much. Some of us with the grill haven't taken the step of debadging though. The black mesh behind the grill is optional as well, but it definitely helps in bright sunlight where from a few steps back, you can't see the mesh of the grill and just see the radiator. Sooner or later, the mesh grilled Aurion will be the standard Aurion style. Firstly it is best to heat the badge up a bit. Using a hair dryer or leaving the car in the sun for a bit usually does the trick. Then you slide some fishing wire underneath and with gentle sawing motion, slide it across the entire badge. Then if you can, remove as much of the adhesive foam like residue with a fingernail. For the remaining adhesive, you can remove that with a goo remover such as 'oomph', citrus oil or eucalyptus oil, even lighter fluid (though I'd prefer the others). If you have some shadow left behind from the badge, you can remove that with a little cut and polish or swirl remover. Other tips and hints which may help are located here: DIY debadging debadging my car?? Badging my Car..

Bummer. I would definitely be up for a Nebo run but I am stuck at the Coast. I should be able to make the Thursday meet though, so I won't be missing out on that at least.

The 2 gauge to the engine block is for alternator grounding. As the alternator is attached to the engine, it is therefore grounded through it. Improving the grounding from to your engine block, helps clean up the power coming from the alternator. It's not super urgent so you can do it next time you are free. It's not like anything will explode.

I don't think anyone here has tried the CAT10 approach... or they haven't been kind enough to speak of their experience. So far I can only recall JIN getting his steering wheel buttons to work with an aftermarket unit but that was done with the hack method with the old head unit. Because of that, we can't really guarantee that the CAT10 will solve the DISP button issue. We have tried to understand it, but without analysing the original PCB, it is hard to determine just how that DISP button works. I did some research (just measurements) over here. This was quite a lengthy discussion from the thread 'Steering Wheel buttons'. I suggest you look through there. As it stands, it's like a stab in the dark. The only way to find out really is to try it. I sure couldn't figure it out.

LOL. I only just watched that then. That was gold.

Pretty much what he said. This guy knows his stuff. Well... if you divert the shock elsewhere, it can be quite fun.

Nice work Andrew. Will be nice to see the progress as it goes. Looks like someone has been over at Toyota Nation a bit much and caught on with the upside down emblem.