DJKOR

The rear sway bar from UR is exactly the same shape as the factory RSB so it doesn't sit any different to the factory one. If it was different, it wouldn't fit. It is 3mm wider though, so you will have the bar sitting 1.5mm closer to the ground if that makes any difference to you

The rear sway bar doesn't make any difference mate.

Well in that case then, send the specialist to the local dealership with the container But then again, if it were me, I just wouldn't care if it could only go to one specific place. Just having the car would be the excitement.

Well... not this one. Idling around that RPM is normal. If you find that you are stalling it often, stop focusing on what can be adjusted on the car to reduce this but focus on what you are doing and what you need to do to avoid it. Spend some more time on a slight incline and get used to the clutch point and the ideal throttle you need to get it going etc. From the sounds of it, you can easily rectify this issue. Practice makes perfect.

Oh the envy. If I was someone who ordered one of them, I would so be asking for it to arrive to my door or the local dealer in the container.

Okay then, that can possibly work for the initial plan since you are only using it for the activating and deactivating of a separate circuit. However, does your switching relay have a built in resistor? If not, I would parallel a resistor with it. Reason for this is that SSR's can do some funny things with an inductive circuit. What will happen when you switch it with the SSR is that it will firstly activate the relay because the initial current required to switch the relay will be at it's greatest, but once the relay is turn on, the current required to keep the relay on is reduced. When the SSR switches off, the leakage current through the load side of it may possibly be just enough to keep the switching relay on. Just something to consider. You can get AC SSR's which are designed to overcome issues like that. However, as far as I'm aware, the issue is not with regards to allowing the speed sensor output to flow though it (since once the SSR is active, current can flow both ways though it.. don't quote me on that though), but it's more for when the SSR is off. A DC SSR in the off state will potentially allow half of the AC cycle to pass through it. Hmmm. Maybe the good old fashion relays are perfect for this job. Was pretty cost efficient as well I must add. All I've used are 3 relays, 2 D15 connectors, a switch, and some wiring.

Well in the general sense, you could say a solid state relay is basically like a larger transistor when you visualise what it does. But on a more technical side of things, it is quite different. A solid state relay will operate pretty much like a mechanical relay in that you apply power to the input side, and it allows power to flow on the output side. There is no variation in the flow of current like a transistor can provide SSR's have the input and load sides completely isolated via opto-coupling unlike a transistor. The good thing as well is that you can commonly get ones that have a switching point as low as a few volts. This means that the moment you apply your 12v, it's going to switch on regardless of how good your the supply is on the trigger circuit (ie. load conditions of the car/supply). Just a shame that getting a DPDT version is next to impossible unless you make something up (as a NC contact creates some interesting issues as it always has to have power) and the SPST ones aren't exactly cost efficient. This would mean that you essentially loose your fail-safe since when there is absolutely no power, the speed sensors are disconnected. Edit: Oh damn. I wasn't thinking 100% clearly. I have never really dealt with SSR's at low voltage/current load levels. I just realised one big problem with using a SSR for our circuit above. Because a SSR load side is isolated from the control side, the load side requires at least some minimum voltage to function as the semiconductors in there will not operate with no load. So basically, if your speed is too low that you aren't getting the minimum voltage output from the speed sensor, the SSR will not complete the circuit on the load side despite the control side having power applied. This explains the issue you are having Steven, though it's not due to the control side having a lower voltage, but rather because the wheels aren't moving.

This. Personally, find a mate who has a multi-meter and knows how to use it. With a multimeter and a AA battery, you can figure out the wiring in a few minutes. If I were you, I would learn a bit more about electrical wiring before playing around with it.

I kind of regret not not buying solid state relays in the first place. It would have been nice to just have it all with no moving components. I don't think it will solve the warning light issue at speed mainly because the ECU is made to detect the following fault condition: "Abnormal change in output signal of front/rear speed sensor". I guess though due to the way I have made it, I can build one up when I want to and all I will need to do is just swap the control box. That said, I wonder if it would work with my dual stage switch (which I suspect works in this case due to the mechanical relay lag). And yeah, I think you're right with regards to the error code. When you switch it, it probably only sees the glitch for less than a second and it is probably waiting to see it for a few seconds at least before logging it.

Doesn't look milky brown to me. All I see is the normal colour of the insulation underneath with some engine oil on top. It is suspected that the 2GR-FE used in Australia never really got the VVT-i oil line issue (maybe due to climate etc), but if you can, can you look at the rubber hose of that oil line and see if it looks a bit suspect. I know it may be hard to see with all the oil around, but it may give a clue. For more information on that issue, refer here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20320

That valve in pic 4 never has a cover on it. Haven't yet found out what it is, but I just suspect it is a bleed valve possibly for coolant or something. How many k's are on your car? If this is the VVT-i oil line issue, you would be the first case I have heard of it in Aus.

To further add to this thread, in my first post above I stated that switching between Traction Control on and off has only been tested with the car stationary. Now to be realistic, if this were to always be the case, there is going to be in inevitable moment where you accidental switch it with the car moving. So last night I set out to test this. At suburban speeds of about 60km/h (as indicated by the speedo), switching between TC on and off does not cause the ECU to give any form of response back. At highway speeds of around 80km/h however (though I noticed it can possibly happen around 70km/h), the ECU detects something is going on and will light up the warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light, and the 'Check VSC System' warning message. The lights do however turn off after a few seconds and no error code is logged in the ECU. If I was to provide a recommendation, I would still suggest that it would be a wiser idea to switch between TC on and off only when the car is stationary. If you must do it while moving, then slowing to 60km/h or below would be what I would suggest. That said, at least you know that if you must change it while on the highway, you probably won't break anything (can't guarantee that though). To give you an idea:

So after a test run, I have come to the conclusion that the ECU won't even recognise the changeover if you enable/disable TC while the car is stationary. That brief moment when the front sensor input has no connection to it when the relay switches is not enough for the car to notice. I have not tested this while driving however. I'm not actually concerned about it throwing a code because I have a reader and can clear it as required, but I just don't know if there is the potential for a minor voltage spike when the sensors are switched over while on the move.

Today I fitted my relay pack and re-did the cabling to the ECU for my Traction Control switch. Took her out for a test drive and was satisfied with the outcome.

Not answering the question there Bruster. To answer the question, you are perfectly fine to mix the fuels. If you couldn't, that would be a pretty serious design failure. This applies to all cars that run on unleaded and can use E10... not just the Aurion.

Well... it took me a bit of time to draw that diagram up after getting home at 11:30pm from the Marriott. Realistically, as simple as that circuit is, I made it freehand while I was there and it surprisingly took away my mental power.

Firstly, as with any modification, the information provided here is is for reference purposes only. I will not be held accountable for any damaged done to your car, yourself, the property of others, or other persons as a result of performing any of the procedures shown here. Modification to the skid control ECU can compromise the safety of your vehicle during emergency manoeuvres or spirited driving. With that out of the way, since the knowledge on this subject is something to be shared, I will provide the following information that will give you an idea of how the Traction Control system is wired up on the Aurion, and what can be done to override it. On a basic level, the Skid Control ECU (which is located on the ABS actuator) monitors speed sensors located on each wheel. For the purposes of Traction Control, it will notice when the front speed sensor/s are rotating at a greater amount than the rear sensors and if it detects this, it will cut the throttle to regain traction. One theory I had was that we could easily override Traction Control if we trick the ECU into not seeing a difference in rotation. Since each speed sensor is basically an AC motor that outputs a waveform, the idea was that if we disconnect the front speed sensors and connect the rear speed sensors in parallel, then the ECU would never see the front wheels spinning. After sitting on the thought for a bit, the idea was finally tested and the final conclusion was that this is a viable solution. In doing this though, you not only disable your Traction Control, but you also lose your ABS and even VSC in most scenarios. A solution that enables you to switch between enabled and disabled had to be planned. In the end, an electronic switching solution was desired as this would not only improve switching speed (you ideally would want it to switch instantly so as to not throw an error code) but it would also allow you to integrate a fail-safe that would automatically re-enable Traction Control when your engine is switched off. To start with this modification, you need to access the wiring harness on the Skid Control ECU. When you have disconnected it and removed the cover, you will be left with this: The connector has some pin numbers on it to help you figure out which pin is which, and the ones you will be concerned with are as follows: FL+ : Light Blue, Pin 5 FL- : Violet, Pin 6 FR+ : Pink, Pin 10 FR- : Light Blue, Pin 9 RL+ : Red, Pin 7 RL- : Light Blue, Pin 27 RR+ : Black, Pin 29 RR- : White, Pin 8 Now for the fun stuff. The following diagram is provided as is. If you have difficulty understanding it, then this may possibly not be the job for you. I have utilised a DB15 plug and socket to enable easy connection and disconnection to the control box from the ECU. With the 12v source for the SPST relay on the lower left, if you connect it to a switched +12v source, you can take advantage of the fail-safe automatic switch-on. The switching circuit can be modified to use a 4PDT relay, electronic momentary latching relays, or completely electronic control. It is up to you if you choose to go down that path. The information provided here is what I have done personally and have tested. So if you are curious... Mine varies just a little in relation to the TC on/off switch. I have an illuminated push-button with a dual stage press. It basically enables me to combine the NC and NO switches in a single push button. I half-press the button to turn off the TC, and do a quick full-press to re-enable it. For the sake of simplicity though, I have not included those specifics in the above diagram. On a side note, as of this present time I have only tested switching between the disabled and enabled state while the car is STATIONARY. I'm not exactly willing as of yet to try switching it while the car is moving due to the potential for a minor voltage spike which may not be so good for the skid control ECU. Edit: Not long after fitting this, I had performed a switching test while driving. To sum it up, yes you can switch between TC enabled and disabled while driving. More details are listed in Post #5 below. As well, now as my project is fully completed, here is my parts list and current Jaycar pricing. You can save money by either substituting parts or sourcing them elsewhere. This is just to give you an idea of how much it would cost if you went down to your local Jaycar. 1 x Sealed ABS Enclosure - 115 x 65 x 40mm : $8.95 2 x 12V DPDT 10A Power Relay : $7.95 ea 1 x Micro 30A Horn Relays : $6.50 5 x Blue Extra Heavy Duty Hook-up wire : $0.70 metre 2 x 4 Core Screened Professional Microphone Cable : $2.70 metre 1 x DB15 Male Connector - Solder : $1.95 1 x DB15 Female Connector - Solder : $1.95 1 x DB15 Plastic Backshell : $2.45 1 x IP67 Rated Illuminated Momentary Switch Green : $14.50 2 x LED 5MM DIF COM CATH ORG/GRN 70/80MCD : $1.00 ea 1 x 620ohm 1/2 Watt 1% Metal Film Resistors - Pk.8 : $0.46 1 x 1N4004 1A 400V Diode - Pack of 4 : $0.50 Grand Total: $64.06 Edit 2: As per post #34 on the second page, this circuit has received some modification: You will notice that I have left out the trigger circuit in this diagram. You an either integrate the same one as used on the first diagram or you can use the method Steven has shown. As long as it switches to ground, it will activate the circuit.

So... I haven't updated this in a while. That's pretty much because I haven't really been doing anything with my car apart from driving it. I guess I may as well add my next modification though which is due for fitting tomorrow morning: That messy little box lets me turn my traction control on and off with the push of a button. Obviously it still needs some refining like some cable loom, a cover over the connector etc, but that will all happen when I fit it. It was more of a project just to prove that it would work, and it turned out to be less proving the theory and more of trying to design a solution that has minimal clutter. The design may be a little on the clunky side, but it is a more robust solution that I feel more trusting in. About the only other new thing is this: It's a GoPoint GL1. I guess the next step I have in mind is to somehow integrate it into the car.

So this will be where the itinerary will go. At the moment, we are still building it, so it's mainly as a place-holder. In keeping with the last QLD layout: ------------------------------------------------- To make things easier here is a guide to the following itinerary - RED - Destination or place we are going to or leaving from GREEN - The time we are leaving or arriving . ORANGE - What you need to bring with you PINK - Appropriate colour for mick.wheelz. FRIDAY 10TH JUNE Meet all/most interstaters at Brisbane International, Windsor at 7.30pm Head to Brisbane meet up point at the "LOOP" to join with Brissy members at 8:00pm Depending on how everyone feels, we will leave "LOOP" at 9.00pm and head up to Mount Nebo (in the reverse direction for those that know) for some controlled spirited driving. After chillaxing for a bit at Jolly's Lookout, we will then head back down. Once we have all gathered at the bottom again SILVABULLET and myself will then escort interstaters back to their hotel. SATURDAY 11TH JUNE I will meet all/most interstaters at 9.00 to go to car wash. Go to car wash (located about 10 minutes away) to wash cars. Andrew357 (the foursquare mayor of HHWC) will be there, along with SILVABULLIT. Once there you can either DIY, or have your car washed professionally by the excellent staff. Convoy to location of show and shine at Torque Toyota North Lakes, leaving the car wash at about 11:00am Show and Shine to start about 12:00pm and finish with trophy presentation about 3.30pm. Locals may start to gather from 11:30am at the venue to start putting the finishing touches on their rides. To help offset the cost of the prizes for the Show and Shine which will be assembled by DJKOR, we ask that entrants to the Show and Shine contribute $10 if you are a regular member or $5.00 if you are a TOC Supporter. Back to hotel for interstaters with guide from one of the Brissy boys (we nominated mick.wheelz!!). SILVABULLET and possibly other members of the Brisbane crew will meet interstaters at their hotel at 6.30pm and convoy to Hogs Breath Cafe, Indooroopilly. Brisbane members will meet at Hogs Breath Cafe, Indooroopilly for a 7:30pm reservation. After dinner we will will open it up to the group for ideas, some possible ones include (and bear in mind we can split up and do different things) We could visit some nice locations in Brisbane for photos, cruise somewhere (gold coast, etc) or go out for some drinks (CBD/Valley) or... go home and sleep. SUNDAY 12TH JUNE Everyone meet at loop for cruise around Brisbane and the surrounding mountains at 9.00am for 9:30am departure. NOTE: The cruise route will be tested shortly and maps will be posted. Once the main cruise component is complete, we will head over to Kingson Park Raceway at 1.00pm for some go-karting where you can drive as hard as you want within the relatively safe confines of a purpose built vehicle and track. The venue has BBQ's available as well as a "Pit Stop Cafe" so we can either have a BBQ lunch or you can buy some lunch there. Sunday night we will leave open at this stage so people can do whatever they please depending on how the feel. MONDAY 13TH JUNE Home time!!! closer to the date most of our travelling members will know when they are going to leave so we will leave Monday morning open at this stage as well. For anyone staying in Brisbane for longer, please let Daryl, Mick or any of the other Brisbane members if you wish to organize anything else to do.

Attendance List QLD: 1) DJKOR 2) SILVABULLIT 3) mick.wheelz 4) Northy 5) SecaBoy 6) STYLSH 7) Steven 8) SuperDave 9) Andrew357 10) Branno 11) Soarer_Gurl 12) ELEGNT 13) zedder 14) Matt. 15) Evo 7 16) oodee (Friday) 17) Stewbie (Friday) 18) HAMSTA 19) AJW 20) 11TWO 21) Ramikan 22) CUB41 23) Ray89 24) Low98rolla (Saturday) 25) Whip Cracker (Saturday) 26) 27) 28) 29) 30) NSW: 1) M_M (possibly) 2) BG Pete 3) VF-X 4) juvenile 5) JE-55-EA 6) master.Cuong 7) flipsta24 8) Hiro 9) RedSportivo 10) Ronnyboy 11) AurionOwner1992 12) 13) 14) 15) VIC: 1) Tash 2) Kenpo 3) Zeinheiger (possibly) 4) dwee. 5) le.vinh.zr 6) 7) 8) 9) 10) SA/NT/WA/TAS: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) Go-Kart: Those in the list below have put their names down for go-karting. Those in bold have paid their $20 deposit which secures their spot. Green font indicates 'PAID IN FULL'. Italics indicates payment pending but not yet cleared. 1) DJKOR +1 2) mick.wheelz 3) Andrew357 4) AJW +1 5) STYLSH 6) SuperDave 7) Tash 8) RedSportivo +1 +1 9) Hiro 10) dwee. 11) jamole1 12) SILVABULLIT 13) 14) 15) Current reserved places: 14

Show & Shine made possible thanks to Steve McLaughlin of Torque Toyota at North Lakes. Prizes for the show and shine courtesy of Meguiars and Liqui-Moly ------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey everyone. It's that time of the year again. That time is the: TOCAU Annual Meet!!! The itinerary is located in Post #3 below and will be occasionally updated over the next few days/weeks. It's enough there though to get the general idea of what is going on. Basically the meet will be held on the Queen's Birthday long weekend (JUNE 10 - 13, 2011). For those who are unaware of these Annual Meets, you can have a look at the following threads from the previous meets so you can get an idea: TOCAU NATIONAL MEET 2008 TOCAU 2008 Mega Meet Media TOCAU ANNUAL MEET (2009) 2009 Melbourne Annual Meet (Pics) 2010 TOCAU ANNUAL NATIONAL MEET 2010 TOCAU ANNUAL NATIONAL MEET PICS Thanks to Steve McLaughlin of Torque Toyota at North Lakes, after some discussion today we have secured a venue to host our 'Show & Shine' on the 11th of June. This is the same venue where the 2008 Annual Meet was held and was an ideal location for the meet. So with that said, start planning your holidays guys. I hope to see you there. Let's make it a meet to remember. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Update: 13/06/2011 Show and Shine Results: Best Interior - Steven Best Interior Runner Up - Tash Best Exterior - JAMOLE Best Exterior Runner Up - juvenile Best Engine Bay - Andrew357 Best Engine Bay Runner Up - JE-55-EA Moderators Choice - juvenile Moderators Choice Runner Up - STYLSH Best Overall - Steven Best Overall Runner Up - Andrew357 Category Runners Up won a prize pack consisting of Meguiar's Nxt Generation Car Wash (532mL) and a Liqui-Moly Speed Tec Petrol Additive. Category winners won a prize pack consisting of Meguiar's Nxt Generation Car Wash (532mL) and a Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 Liquid (532mL).

Despite my lacking conversational/social skills, I went in to Torque Toyota at North Lakes and had a chat to Steve the dealer principal and he would be happy to host our Show & Shine on June 11.

GRRRRRR.... SONOVA!!!!!! So last night I choose to go to the meet rather than working at the Marriott. The guy who took my shift for me informed me that there was a Beauty Academy Graduation thing going on in the ballroom right next to where my office there is set up.

^ Don't know what you're talking about mate. Nothing happened while we were there.