The STUPID thread

[cuppas]

with the sump plug- tighten until you feel the washer compress. yes, new washer each time.

my stupid question. extractors are individual pipes with merge whatevers and such and into one final pipe, why arent intake manifolds a similar design?

[TroysRollaSX]

my stupid question. extractors are individual pipes with merge whatevers and such and into one final pipe, why arent intake manifolds a similar design?

Cost mainly, also the length and design has an effect on when the engine is able to "breath in" best, with shorter intake piping favouring a different point in the rev range then what longer intake piping would do. This is one of the reasons why individual throttle bodies are used on race cars rather then sticking with the sort of setup used on my street cars, which is a setup that is more suitable for production of torque operation at lower revs, but isn't ideal for ultimate power.

Along the same lines, Toyota themselves changed the intake system from the TVIS intake system on the 2nd gen 4AGE to a simpler intake system on the 3rd gen 4AGE with smaller intake ports (as well as increasing the compression rate), which apparently improved throttle response and torque in the low rev range. If anyone has dyno readings showing the torque curves from 2nd and 3rd gen 4AGEs that would be very interesting.

Hope that has helped answer your question somewhat?

[Hiro]

with the sump plug- tighten until you feel the washer compress. yes, new washer each time.

my stupid question. extractors are individual pipes with merge whatevers and such and into one final pipe, why arent intake manifolds a similar design?

Exhaust manifolds have merges and collectors etc to try and pair up particular cylinders so that the pulse of the exhaust gas flowing through the tube is timed so as to not interfere with other cylinders, and to generate smooth flow out the exhaust. With the intake, you are drawing air from a reservoir (the plenum) which has a sufficiently large enough volume so as to eliminate pressure waves and flow fluctuations etc due to the timing of the valves.

[Silver-Aurion]

Where can I find body kits for the Aurion?

[Noodle Boy]

isn't there a thread that's already discussed this? search for it. or are you just being sarcastic?

[TroysRollaSX]

Where do I get some 710 from to put in my engine?

[Silver-Aurion]

isn't there a thread that's already discussed this? search for it. or are you just being sarcastic?

I did search, but type in body kit does not bring up anything good.

[and1]

I have to pay to post in the for sale section?

[Buff Hamster]

I have to pay to post in the for sale section?

Read the subtitle - TOC Supporters can put your items for sale here. SORRY no traders ads please. No Car Sales here please.

So in order to sell you have to be a TOCAU member.

[DJKOR]

I have to pay to post in the for sale section?

Read the subtitle - TOC Supporters can put your items for sale here. SORRY no traders ads please. No Car Sales here please.

So in order to sell you have to be a TOCAU member.

Hey guys. This has just been in discussion with Steve and I. Despite what that heading says (in the meantime), the old buy and sell rules apply. So you can feel free to post there if you qualify by the old rules. However, only Paid Members can sell their cars. We figured that it's a little too strict having it exclusively for Paid Members only.

[Silver-Aurion]

I have to pay to post in the for sale section?

Read the subtitle - TOC Supporters can put your items for sale here. SORRY no traders ads please. No Car Sales here please.

So in order to sell you have to be a TOCAU member.

Hey guys. This has just been in discussion with Steve and I. Despite what that heading says (in the meantime), the old buy and sell rules apply. So you can feel free to post there if you qualify by the old rules. However, only Paid Members can sell their cars. We figured that it's a little too strict having it exclusively for Paid Members only.

Awesome, cheers guys :)

[and1]

That's good news in a way.. The other rules were a bit harsh.

So if I was to start a new thread, how do I go about it? It still states that I cannot start a new topic <_<

Edited November 5, 2010 by and1

[DJKOR]

That's good news in a way.. The other rules were a bit harsh.

So if I was to start a new thread, how do I go about it? It still states that I cannot start a new topic <_<

Interesting. That brian88 guy keeps pumping out new threads. Something must be up with that. I guess we will just have to wait for Steve to make an adjustment to it.

[Silver-Aurion]

test

why is my time off by one hour??

never mind, fixed it in the settings.

Edited November 5, 2010 by Silver-Aurion

[Buff Hamster]

I also can't make threads in the buy and sell section

[Synthetic05]

Do you guys think 4500 kms after owning my car for about 8 weeks is bad? I would say half is through work use

[DJKOR]

Do you guys think 4500 kms after owning my car for about 8 weeks is bad? I would say half is through work use

I put 2500km on my car within 2 days after buying it, then a further 2000km over the next couple of weeks.

I wouldn't even call that bad.

[TroysRollaSX]

Do you guys think 4500 kms after owning my car for about 8 weeks is bad? I would say half is through work use

Driven, not hidden! Heck, I did over 1500kms in a week the other week. It's a toyota, don't worry about it, it's not like some other makes where you can only expect a small number of kms before it's ready for the scrapheap!

[Synthetic05]

Haha yeah good point it will run well for ages. I only say this because if when or if i do sell it. Obviously the less kms on it, the car will get more value... but then i want to make the most of owning it :D

[mmm_sx6]

Back when people had CRTs, some offices would have a tinted screen placed in front of the CRT to stop it hurting ur eyes, blah blah blah, I also noticed with that, when someone is looking at the screen from an angle, and not straight on, they cant see anything, similar to the screens on ATMs.

Now when driving, especially a powerful car, its easy to get up to speeds without feeling it, how ever your passengers **** themselves when they see the speed, is there some way to put this kind of tint/film on the dash's display so that the front passenger cant see the whole cluster, or can see it faintly?

[Hiro]

Back when people had CRTs, some offices would have a tinted screen placed in front of the CRT to stop it hurting ur eyes, blah blah blah, I also noticed with that, when someone is looking at the screen from an angle, and not straight on, they cant see anything, similar to the screens on ATMs.

Now when driving, especially a powerful car, its easy to get up to speeds without feeling it, how ever your passengers **** themselves when they see the speed, is there some way to put this kind of tint/film on the dash's display so that the front passenger cant see the whole cluster, or can see it faintly?

So basically you want to speed without the passengers in the car seeing that you're speeding......

[Andrew357]

So basically you want to speed without the passengers in the car seeing that you're speeding......

Sounds like a good idea to me, what is wrong with it? <_<

[Andrew357]

I have a crossover here. I have no idea what the inputs mean (manual isn't much chop):

IN+

IN-

W+

W-

T+

-3db

0db

+3db

What in the name of jesus do I put into what and what does the 'xx db' ones mean?

[DJKOR]

It should look something like this:

IN+ : Head unit/Amplifier positive speaker output connects here

IN- : Head unit/Amplifier negative speaker output connects here

W+ : Connects to the positive terminal of the woofer

W- : Connects to the negative terminal of the woofer

T+ : Connects to the positive terminal of the tweeter

------- Only use one of the following

-3dB : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for -3dB

0db : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for no attenuation

+3db : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for +3db

The attenuation setting may possibly be a bit of a trick in a way. It won't really affect you though with what I will say. A more common arrangement for a tweeter crossover is 0db with an extra setting for -3db and -6db. If your crossover is passive, changes are that the +3db setting is in fact 0db and the -3db setting is actually -6db.

If that didn't make sense, never-mind.

[Andrew357]

makes sense, will probably leave it at zero.

Now to find out which bloody terminal on these tweeters are what. They are unmarked <_< One cable is red, one is black.

edit: Thanks Daryl