Just bought an 03 Sportivo. What should I do?

[RME1]

DIY piping from bunnings:

Yes you can. $25 for some Air con spec piping. Just remove the resonator gizmo looking box that sits behind passenger side fog light.

You can get better acceleration response by dropping in a K/N filter as opposed to OEM, drilling a hole in the air box and linking that up with some ninja Piping you bought from Bunnings. Very effective on the race track.

Key cars to search for (MELB):

BANGN (Racing beast):

Stock (track)

Size: 16x6.0

205/50/16

Bridgestone RE540S Semi slicks

Suspension:

Cusco Zero 2 Coilovers with Camber tops

Whiteline Rear Sway

Whiteline Front Sway

C-ONE Front Strut bar

Mods:

Injen CAI/ Blitz SR

PP kustom catback with Spec 3 muffler

Hondata IMG

bb's garage ported headers

Exedy Ceramic 3 puk clutch

Performance

1/4 mile: 14.46 @ 99.05 mph

Winton: 1m49s

Dyno: 118.3 fw kW

COLD Air Intakes and other Corolla stuff in Melbourne:

Unfortunately, I only know of one:

On the Run Motor Sport

137A Westall Road,

Clayton South, VIC

3169

Link

They stock:

Summit Strut Braces (To suit corolla as well - Front and rear)

CAI (To suit Corolla)

And other random stuff.

Good luck.

Edited May 30, 2008 by RME1

[bonbon]

*cough*http://www.mmsport.com.au/*cough* how deep are your pockets?

comfort wise, i dont think you can better how it is stock? any mods are going to make it less comfortable!

[Guni]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Really appreciate it.

Rang CES in QLD. He quote me for the whole package (CAI + Headers + Exhaust System) for 2029 + 75 (shipping to melbourne).

Should cost me around another 250 to install it.

Would be going down to OTR MotorSports later to suss them out. See how they are.

[MR22ZZ]

Just a couple of things I've picked up on, only just read though the thread

The only issue i have is with the gear shift. Its sticky, clunky and not smooth. That was before I got the car, before I serviced and after I serviced. My mechanic told me he put in 75W90 gear oil. A week later, he had to drain it and put in RedLine ShockProof LightWeight which according to the bottle, doesn't need changing for 400,000KM. Hmmmm..........

So result is, the shift is a little smoother especially when changing gears at high revs but still notchy when shifting in between gears at low revs (below 5000). Changing to and from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th still feels ****. Wander if I have to run it in ?????? I understand Stivo are prone to this issue and having read what some fellow owners have done (changing clutch, adjusting the original clutch), is there any other alternative????

I'd take the Redline Lighweight Shockproof out and swap it for Redline MT90.

The redline shockproof is not that great with synchromesh gearboxes and it sounds like your synchros are already on the way out, so to the MT90 may be better which it known to smooth out notchy gearboxes. I know this is an expensive exercise, but it's cheaper than a new gearbox.

The only time a larger rear sway bar is overkill is when you have coilovers imo.

Also, if you installed a rear sway onto yourself, then your partner may experience more of a happy ending whilst getting gigiddy.

Bollocks... I found the rear swaybar to have greater influence with coilovers as it added to the chassis rigidity. Coilovers by their nature put more stain on the chassis due to the reduced suspension travel so the car tends to flex more than with the standard suspension. The rear swaybar reduces this by keeping the difference in travel from side to side in cornering to a minimum.

[SuperDave]

The only issue i have is with the gear shift. Its sticky, clunky and not smooth. That was before I got the car, before I serviced and after I serviced. My mechanic told me he put in 75W90 gear oil. A week later, he had to drain it and put in RedLine ShockProof LightWeight which according to the bottle, doesn't need changing for 400,000KM. Hmmmm..........

Don't believe the snake oil story of 400,000km of use. I used to use the shockproof and it was a great oil, made the shifting great et cetera, however, replace it with normal gear oil, it WILL kill your synchros. I'm using Motul and it works fine, as would some of the others.

- Strut car across the engine bay (tie bar and strut bar at the rear required too???)

The front strut bar doesn't do anything other than give you something to hold onto while working on the engine. The rear strut bar is money better spent and is cheaper.

[Dead]

- Strut car across the engine bay (tie bar and strut bar at the rear required too???)

The front strut bar doesn't do anything other than give you something to hold onto while working on the engine. The rear strut bar is money better spent and is cheaper.

Dude I've got to disagree with you. I noticed that the front was ridiculously more controlled through corners than before. Plus it seemed to reduce axle tramp around corners immensely for me also.

[SILVABULLIT]

DIY piping from bunnings:

Yes you can. $25 for some Air con spec piping. Just remove the resonator gizmo looking box that sits behind passenger side fog light.

You can get better acceleration response by dropping in a K/N filter as opposed to OEM, drilling a hole in the air box and linking that up with some ninja Piping you bought from Bunnings. Very effective on the race track.

Key cars to search for (MELB):

BANGN (Racing beast):

Stock (track)

Size: 16x6.0

205/50/16

Bridgestone RE540S Semi slicks

Suspension:

Cusco Zero 2 Coilovers with Camber tops

Whiteline Rear Sway

Whiteline Front Sway

C-ONE Front Strut bar

Mods:

Injen CAI/ Blitz SR

PP kustom catback with Spec 3 muffler

Hondata IMG

bb's garage ported headers

Exedy Ceramic 3 puk clutch

Performance

1/4 mile: 14.46 @ 99.05 mph

Winton: 1m49s

Dyno: 118.3 fw kW

COLD Air Intakes and other Corolla stuff in Melbourne:

Unfortunately, I only know of one:

On the Run Motor Sport

137A Westall Road,

Clayton South, VIC

3169

Link

They stock:

Summit Strut Braces (To suit corolla as well - Front and rear)

CAI (To suit Corolla)

And other random stuff.

Good luck.

Dude I don't think you read his post. Brian's car is totally modded towards track work. He wants some mods on an every day driver and isn't going to hit the track. Wants some more performance and it to handle a bit better with maintaining a nice ride.

Brian's car is almost the total opposite of that plus he's into Honda's now. RME1 if you see Bangn ask him if he has given the member off TOCAU his money back for some lug nuts that the guy never got.

[Dead]

I second the motion that Brian has had no intention of ever having a comfortable car lol.

[Guni]

*cough*http://www.mmsport.com.au/*cough* how deep are your pockets?

comfort wise, i dont think you can better how it is stock? any mods are going to make it less comfortable!

MM Sport mainly do turbo and super charger kits. Doesn't have much of what I want. They however forwarded me to Toda Racing http://www.todaracing.com.au/

Todo's website is empty. Will try to ring them tomorrow or Monday.

Paid On the Run Motor Sport in Westall Road a visit today. They mainly do handling stuff like suspension, coilovers, all struts and others like rims, tyres, brakes discs and pads. Quite a nice bloke. Will definately go back there. Originally went there to look if they do CAI, Headers and Exhaust. Unfortunately, he told me he does little of it. More of the earlier stuff I mentioned.

He asked me to go for BC coilovers instead of Cusco or Tein as its more cost effective and works as well. I think he quoted around 1500 inc installation for all 4. Would be cheaper if I bulk buy as well with rims and bars and tyres ++++ bla bla bla bla......

[SILVABULLIT]

Can't say i have heard of BC coilovers. You would be better off spending the same sort of money on quality shocks over cheap coilovers. Will be better for you in the long run with the sort of driving you will do more of.

[Kenneth]

Kenneth,

that white Corolla on your signature, is that car using Enkei RPF1?

the sedan? thats angelo and i believe he is using enkei :)

[Dead]

Dude, if you want your car to sit lower than normal then grab quality Jap made coilovers. Period. If you aren't as picky with ride height then grab a spring / shock combo. When I say low btw, I mean the equivalent to a 65mm drop all round. Hell, I think mines even lower than that perhaps.

Can't say i have heard of BC coilovers. You would be better off spending the same sort of money on quality shocks over cheap coilovers. Will be better for you in the long run with the sort of driving you will do more of.

BC are an Australian brand I think*. They aren't cheap in their design, as I couldn't imagine a certain suspension shop here taking them on if they weren't. He dealt with nothing but TEIN before taking BC on also.

*Seriously, don't quote me on that though.

Edited May 30, 2008 by KptzS Heinz Fredrikkson

[Guni]

So BC is ok? Can't seem to find much on them except on other Honda or Nissa forums.

Can't say i have heard of BC coilovers. You would be better off spending the same sort of money on quality shocks over cheap coilovers. Will be better for you in the long run with the sort of driving you will do more of.

BC are an Australian brand I think. They aren't cheap in their design, as I couldn't imagine a certain suspension shop here taking them on if they weren't. He dealt with nothing but TEIN before taking BC on also.

Edited May 30, 2008 by Guni

[Dead]

So BC is ok? Can't seem to find much on them except on other Honda or Nissa forums.

The Cusco Zero 1's and 2's are tried and tested. Do it once and do it properly.

I wish I did.

[Guni]

Supplier...........

http://wholesalesuspension.com.au/bcracing.html

[DANZZT231]

i think he just need set of spring as he wants comfort.

[SILVABULLIT]

If you are not hittnig the track and the majority of your drivign is commuting the go with some springs and shocks. Will be cheaper and maintian a nice ride with a lowered stance.

[Guni]

Thanks silvabullit. Thanks everyone for all their input. Been wonderful. Now just have to save up the money for them.

I just re-route the stock intake piping to come up from the bottom. No extra pipes needed. Just remove the stock one from the clip at the top and fold it downwards. It is now pointing towards the radiator (pointing to the right) which is OK because I don't want water coming in from the front and into the intake. Response better too.

Next is to check if anyone has an un-used K & N filter that can be sold to me as I'm quite tight at the moment to buy a brand new one. Posting to melbourne ;)

[Sportivo VVTL-i]

Next is to check if anyone has an un-used K & N filter that can be sold to me as I'm quite tight at the moment to buy a brand new one. Posting to melbourne ;)

silvabullit got one for sale, have a look in the buy & sell section...im sure he can give a good price on it

[Dead]

Each to their own. It depends on what you want. Even a 50mm drop isn't enough for me as an example.

[Suprathai]

Couldn't be bothered going through the thread as it appears that everyone has differing opinions, so I may as well add mine too.

If you want comfort with some increase in handling for the suspension department I would go (in the following order)

Rear Sway Bar

Front Strut Bar

Front Sway Bar

Koni Adjustable shocks + Stock Springs

+King Spring lows if you want a lowered stance

or IF YOU REALLY WANT IT

Coilovers + a nice firm but soft pillow

For the Engine

CAI (don't bother with an SRI unless you just want the sound, and even then it doesn't sound that good)

Nice synthetic fluid for all

Interior

Nice heavy gear knob (400g+) and you'll remove most of the sticky/notchiness + TRD SS

I have tein coilovers but even on the softest settings they are quite stiff on the road, I'm looking at a Koni + Eibach combo at the moment.

ALSO

Your wasting your time if you think a K&N filter will give you any kind of extra power. The pressure drop across the filter is so minimal with the stock filter. Having said that I have a K&N filter as well!!

[Guni]

Next is to check if anyone has an un-used K & N filter that can be sold to me as I'm quite tight at the moment to buy a brand new one. Posting to melbourne ;)

silvabullit got one for sale, have a look in the buy & sell section...im sure he can give a good price on it

Alraedy PM-ed him. Waiting for an answer *fingers cross*

Couldn't be bothered going through the thread as it appears that everyone has differing opinions, so I may as well add mine too.

Interior

TRD SS - What's that?? Does SS stands for stainless steel???

ALSO

Your wasting your time if you think a K&N filter will give you any kind of extra power. The pressure drop across the filter is so minimal with the stock filter. Having said that I have a K&N filter as well!!

I want one as well!

[Guni]

Having said that, does anyone have pictures of the CES package pictures fitted into their cars???

[Sportivo VVTL-i]

TRD SS - What's that?? Does SS stands for stainless steel???

SS stands for short shifter...i think...i could be wrong

[taragasaurus]

Guni, you should be able to get some half descent tyres for stock 16" under $200.00 based on what I got for my 17's. some tyres can get pretty expensive though.

as far as tyres go roughly around the $220 to $280 a tyre depending on your choice

I recently purchased tyres for my BC rims (215/40/17) I did a lot of research to find ones that were good, met the load rating and didn't cost an arm and a leg.

I got mine from BOB JANE tempe, the ones i originally wanted were the FEDERAL 595EVO, but they're not avail in australia until the 4th quarter of this year as Japan and USA have got first stock. So I then wanted the slightly noisier SS595 in the XL, quoted $150.00 a corner (but they were temp out of stock of the XL which met the load rating)

so I went with the FULDA EXCELERO instead, I got them at a very good price $180.00 a corner (as a couple of other members here had them) and im very happy with them.