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Air intake mods


ELEGNT

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, rather than starting a new topic, thought I'd ask here. So I'm having my 60,000km service done this Friday at my local Toyota dealership and was wondering if anyone thinks it's necessary to remove my K&N Typhoon Intake and put my stock air box back in. My car has 5 year extended warranty. There are no issues with the vehicle other than steering to the left and a worn out sway bar bush causing a knock.

Thanks for any help.

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Hey guys, rather than starting a new topic, thought I'd ask here. So I'm having my 60,000km service done this Friday at my local Toyota dealership and was wondering if anyone thinks it's necessary to remove my K&N Typhoon Intake and put my stock air box back in. My car has 5 year extended warranty. There are no issues with the vehicle other than steering to the left and a worn out sway bar bush causing a knock.

I don't think it's necessary. It's your call though. I've taken my Aurion's into Toyota for a service numerous times with the various things done to it and they never really said anything or had an issue with it. If you have something broken that could be somehow related to your mods (in the eyes of Toyota), then that's a different story.

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Hey guys, rather than starting a new topic, thought I'd ask here. So I'm having my 60,000km service done this Friday at my local Toyota dealership and was wondering if anyone thinks it's necessary to remove my K&N Typhoon Intake and put my stock air box back in. My car has 5 year extended warranty. There are no issues with the vehicle other than steering to the left and a worn out sway bar bush causing a knock.

I don't think it's necessary. It's your call though. I've taken my Aurion's into Toyota for a service numerous times with the various things done to it and they never really said anything or had an issue with it. If you have something broken that could be somehow related to your mods (in the eyes of Toyota), then that's a different story.

Everything's fine with the car itself so I'll leave it be. I can't be bothered changing it until I sell the car in a few months. Thanks for the quick reply as always.

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Im currently in the interest on modding the intake. Since lots people here has K&N, I'm thinking of getting a different one. I came across Fujita. And the comment I read is this

"K&N is better overall due to the heat shield. Fujita is louder. But I am currently running the fujita pipe with the K&N heat shield."

Q: How will this affect the car?

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Im currently in the interest on modding the intake. Since lots people here has K&N, I'm thinking of getting a different one. I came across Fujita. And the comment I read is this

"K&N is better overall due to the heat shield. Fujita is louder. But I am currently running the fujita pipe with the K&N heat shield."

Q: How will this affect the car?

That's not the Fujita kit that has the filter down by the bumper is it? If so then the heat shield will do very little except maybe keep the piping a bit cooler.

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That's not the Fujita kit that has the filter down by the bumper is it? If so then the heat shield will do very little except maybe keep the piping a bit cooler.

I wouldn't have a clue.. Don't think so.

anw, here's the vid

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That's not the Fujita kit that has the filter down by the bumper is it? If so then the heat shield will do very little except maybe keep the piping a bit cooler.

I wouldn't have a clue.. Don't think so.

Fujita only have one intake for the 2007+ V6 Camry and that is the CAI. Solomon was one of the first members on the board here to fit on to his Aurion. They do sound really good, because it brings the pod behind the fog light where sound can 'escape' better.

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Im currently in the interest on modding the intake. Since lots people here has K&N, I'm thinking of getting a different one. I came across Fujita. And the comment I read is this

"K&N is better overall due to the heat shield. Fujita is louder. But I am currently running the fujita pipe with the K&N heat shield."

Q: How will this affect the car?

Shouldn't be a problem as long as it gets cooler air from between the battery and the fusebox, there is tubing opening up the bottom of the guard, which forces cooler air into the guard and up into the engine bay. I have tested this driving on the highway and around town, stopped and checked the temp of the pipework and it's cold. the only time it heats up is when standing still, but that is temporary. On a side note can you buy the heatsheild seperate?

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Fujita only have one intake for the 2007+ V6 Camry and that is the CAI. Solomon was one of the first members on the board here to fit on to his Aurion. They do sound really good, because it brings the pod behind the fog light where sound can 'escape' better.

Yeh.. Does this mean it has filter down the bumper like Steven mentioned? Would it be any more complicated to install compared to K&N?

Shouldn't be a problem as long as it gets cooler air from between the battery and the fusebox, there is tubing opening up the bottom of the guard, which forces cooler air into the guard and up into the engine bay. I have tested this driving on the highway and around town, stopped and checked the temp of the pipework and it's cold. the only time it heats up is when standing still, but that is temporary. On a side note can you buy the heatsheild seperate?

The vidz poster got sponsored by both K&N and Fujita. I'm guessing he got the heat shield from previous set up.

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Fujita only have one intake for the 2007+ V6 Camry and that is the CAI. Solomon was one of the first members on the board here to fit on to his Aurion. They do sound really good, because it brings the pod behind the fog light where sound can 'escape' better.

Yeh.. Does this mean it has filter down the bumper like Steven mentioned? Would it be any more complicated to install compared to K&N?

Shouldn't be a problem as long as it gets cooler air from between the battery and the fusebox, there is tubing opening up the bottom of the guard, which forces cooler air into the guard and up into the engine bay. I have tested this driving on the highway and around town, stopped and checked the temp of the pipework and it's cold. the only time it heats up is when standing still, but that is temporary. On a side note can you buy the heatsheild seperate?

The vidz poster got sponsored by both K&N and Fujita. I'm guessing he got the heat shield from previous set up.

you can do this if you wish, but in this case no, my intake is fully homemade and in the engine bay, unless you have the fujita CAI building a CAI is difficult and harder to get right.
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  • 10 months later...

No need to PM me of you're going to ask it in the thread here, or vice versa. Anyways to reset it disconnect your battery, pump the brakes a couple of times, reconnect the battery and start the car.

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thank

why install air intake.

To get more induction noise.

but on the dash pop up vsc system check and transmisson light.

Did you make sure to reconnect everything... especially the MAF sensor before you started the car? Did you follow the instructions completely as well? If you follow the instructions in full, you should not get a Check Engine Light. On the odd occasion you do though, proceed to:

...reset ecu and run 5 to 10 min ?

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thank djkor

instructions?,can you please send me instructions step

thank very much for your help

You should have gotten the instruction sheets with the intake. You can easily obtain them from the K&N website if you did some searching for yourself, but because I am feeling helpful just this time for you:

http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-8611_inst.pdf

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arghhh now i have to go and get another mod for my car ITS ALL SCOOTA's FAULT!!

I shouldn't have let you drive it then. lol. Anyway apart from a couple of error codes ( 1 related to a catylist below parameters) the K & N intake was worth the time and money, have notice a reasonable decrease in the ave fuel consumtion, quite often running in the mid 9's, so do it adamsy !

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  • 5 months later...

Just like you said, all I did was swap the vacuum hoses around so that the upper intake valve stays open and blocked off the lower resonator. I actually blocked off the resonator and did not remove it. I used a small section of thick plastic sheet (like the stuff used in ponds and whatnot) and attached it in such a way that it blocks off the connection between the intake tube and lower resonator. I figured there is no point taking it out of the engine bay when i can simply just block it off. I failed to take photos during the process, so sorry I couldn't help there.

However, there is a nice guide written up over at the Toyota Nation forum, so I guess that saves on the extra writeup:

'as promissed.. Lower Intake Resonator removal DIY'

I was considering putting on an intake such as a Fujita intake, but that is purely because I love the sound of it. My old Camry had a pod filter on it, and man it sounded so much better when you opened it up. Here is a clip of a Fujita intake on a Gen6 Camry:

YouTube: 2007 toyota camry with fujita intake pt#ca-3318

In that respect, a change of intake is only just going to give you a better note and looks, which for most people, is what they are after.

For anyone wishing to open their upper intake path all the time, just connect the valve directly to the vacuum line. I left the pipe attached to the switching valve on the left because it not only prevents the insides of the switch getting dirty, but it lets me change it back to normal without having to find some spare tube. There is probably no real advantage to doing this except for increasing intake noise. Those that say it increases throttle response are probably imagining it. The way I see it, it's just another path to let air get to the filter, so opening it would be of no harm.

dsc02793fr5.th.jpg

Hi Djkor

i was looking at the pic u have put up. so is just simply swaping the tube ? how about the lower resonator?

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I did exactly this today and they're both quite simple mods to perform. The vac tube mod bypasses the electrical vac switch to now be 'always on'. Normally, this switch (and therefore the flap) is closed off at low speeds, preventing any vacuum reaching the actuator (the round part) that lifs this secondary inlet flap. Looping the tube back onto the switch is harmless. With the vac line directly on the actuator, it causes the flap to be open all the time, and you can test this at idle by removing the vacuum hose from the actuator and reconnecting it. You'll hear the flap opening.

Lower resonator removal is very simple with a 10mm ratchet.

Remove scoop bolt from above the radiator. Theres 3 vacuum hoses and maybe an electrical connector to disconnect, easy to remember - or label them. Disconnect - then + of battery, remove by loosening back nut enough to unhook the rod, remove battery & tray. Remove top intake duct, then the lower snorkel duct. The resonator will be exposed, and will come free after removing one bolt and finally levering out its plastic pushpin. Reverse to re-install, reconnect battery + then - . Your ECU will probably have reset. Mine did, and it idled high at startup for a minute, but normal from there on.

I've covered over the gap in the snorkels resonator pipe with a tough foam rubber piece, shaped slightly larger than the hole, then duct taped and cable tied with a hard plastic backing on the foam to have it form a seal. The induction sound has come up to noticeable from feeling 'contained', previously but still nothing compared to having a pod filter.

Edited by Johnny Mash
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  • 1 year later...

BUMP,BUMP,BUMP!!!

Though it would be stupid to start a new thread about this but does anyone or even djkor since it was his mod ( picks up phone and dials...ring ring.)

know how to change the upper resonator as on page 3 there is a photo provided by djkor.

What parts would i need? to do it? i have done everything else mentioned but also how do you get that carbon filter of the air box as well?

Thanks!!

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