Kenshin's Rice Rocket

[.gorgz]

Nice! good to see you got it fitted and working

Just wondering, did you do anything to the engine to need a heavy duty clutch install?

or is the car still pumping out the same amount of power?

[dorifto]

Damn, you hit lift with fresh clutch installed? Both my Exedy H/D clutch I've bed in never saw over 4000rpm until at least 600km. I took it extremely easy for the first 800k's as you have to bed the clutch in properly. At first it will start off soft and progressively get heavier until it's properly bedded in. Either way, your car car, your money. Just my 2c

[dorifto]

Another thing with the shifting; I think your mechanic meant that was for running in engines. Theoretically engines should be run in at different gears and speeds and not to use the same gear at the same speed all the time and load it up periodically with no thrashing and regular oil changes. Sorry for OT.

[Kenshin X]

all opinions are welcome mate, no matter even if its a flame, ;) it just stops me from doing things that are wrong

yeah i wont be shifting past 4k from now on, i have shifted plenty even on the freeway a 100km/hr from 6th to 5th periodically just to get the in-out action happening. and yes i've googled enough to realise it is not good to drive hard until 500kms at least.

i am trying to give reasons for driving around the city as i wanna clock up some ks for this clutch to bed in. the friction point is still abit high for my liking. however the original clutch before it carked it was at the same height. and this was like that ever since i bought it in aug 09. my mechanic said that i can give it a week and see how it goes, if the pedal is still high, he can adjust it to have it sit lower (so its touch and go).

anyways whats done is done and i think i've had my little fun, i just hope the consequences of my little "fun" won't bite me in the bum after 6 months when the clutch slips again.

i was thinking with brakes, i have to bed it in properly driving at 100km/hr then braking to like 30km/hr and then getting the speed up again to 100km/hr and repeating the cycle for 5 times, cruise for 5 mins to let them cool and then repeat the process again for 2 more times.

my hp-x pads still didn't bed in properly and i had to do it a few more hard stops and goes before they bedded-in well.

i was thinking with clutches and flywheels its the same (not the driving hard bit but the "bed-in process" requires the material from the clutch to transfer to the flywheel.

i've stalled the car a few times again today... so i'm yet still getting used to the clutch being so "on-off type feeling" yet i don't want to "and never have until clutch has bedded-in" launched the car from stand still. i know for a fact that this is a no-no the most harsh driving i did was when i was lifting from 1st to 2nd and axle tramped for 0.5 seconds. also today i floored it at low revs in high gear and it seems to be still gripping ok, so i think it should be still ok...

sorry for looooooooooong post...............................

[.gorgz]

Hey Duy! Here's how you should've replaced your clutch LOL! like this guy did...

Step 1: Worn Clutch

Step 2: Find Organ Donor

Step 3: Neeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!! **Chop!**

Step 4: Destroy perfectly GOOD CLUTCH (the fun part)

Step 5: Replace!!

FRANKENCLUTCH!

I facepalmed... check out this build thread, It's full of win!

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=224101

[RedSportivo]

Since you have installed the new clutch it has reduced crunching or stoped it completely.

[Kenshin X]

Old clutch was grabbing which caused the "crunching" sound. In actual fact mine was a deep whirring sound either happened when i changed from 1st to neutral or fom neutral to 2nd (while shifting from 1st to 2nd in lift.) the first three power shifts i did didnt crunch but i did cop a wheel spin/axle tramp in 2nd for half a second.

And goz you're insane haha. When do we go do the base antenna swap??? Johns back btw :))

[.gorgz]

Old clutch was grabbing which caused the "crunching" sound. In actual fact mine was a deep whirring sound either happened when i changed from 1st to neutral or fom neutral to 2nd (while shifting from 1st to 2nd in lift.) the first three power shifts i did didnt crunch but i did cop a wheel spin/axle tramp in 2nd for half a second.

And goz you're insane haha. When do we go do the base antenna swap??? Johns back btw :))

Gonna go look for one this weekend man, I might go past that detailer you pointed out last time as well

But it'll be very soon man

[Kenshin X]

Old clutch was grabbing which caused the "crunching" sound. In actual fact mine was a deep whirring sound either happened when i changed from 1st to neutral or fom neutral to 2nd (while shifting from 1st to 2nd in lift.) the first three power shifts i did didnt crunch but i did cop a wheel spin/axle tramp in 2nd for half a second.

And goz you're insane haha. When do we go do the base antenna swap??? Johns back btw :))

Gonna go look for one this weekend man, I might go past that detailer you pointed out last time as well

But it'll be very soon man

detailer? can u get me a base too? how much will it cost? haha

[.gorgz]

Old clutch was grabbing which caused the "crunching" sound. In actual fact mine was a deep whirring sound either happened when i changed from 1st to neutral or fom neutral to 2nd (while shifting from 1st to 2nd in lift.) the first three power shifts i did didnt crunch but i did cop a wheel spin/axle tramp in 2nd for half a second.

And goz you're insane haha. When do we go do the base antenna swap??? Johns back btw :))

Gonna go look for one this weekend man, I might go past that detailer you pointed out last time as well

But it'll be very soon man

detailer? can u get me a base too? how much will it cost? haha

The panel beater, lol finally getting the sideskirts done (and wing tips, grill, eyelids, rear spoiler, and touch ups) xD

I remember you showing me a shop near your place, I'll go past over the weekend if I have enough time

[Kenshin X]

yeah he is good, but remember if u park ur car mainly inside, then i suggest u get the tips done at the one in springy. my car being black, it will crack easily and even now i'm desperately trying so it doesn't crack anymore than it already is.

u have the base of the antenna already?

[johnnieboi]

Thats a wicked new clutch/flywheel combo you got there.. now for mass high revving/clutch kicking/lift goodness B)

[.gorgz]

u have the base of the antenna already?

Nah, not yet.. I need to find a place that sells the whole thing -.-

probably Toyota Dealer

[Kenshin X]

Thats a wicked new clutch/flywheel combo you got there.. now for mass high revving/clutch kicking/lift goodness B)

still stalling it like a noob sometimes... :(

u have the base of the antenna already?

Nah, not yet.. I need to find a place that sells the whole thing -.-

probably Toyota Dealer

don;t get one at the toyota dealer, one day you're free we will hunt around for a second hand one :)

[Kenshin X]

Got a couple of new interior mods thanks to Johnnieboi xoxo

Razo silver light-weight aluminium gear-shift knob

Broadway 270mm wide rear vision mirror

[dutchie101]

Is Johnnie the knob pimp now? :lol:

[Kenshin X]

He sure is. shifting on this knob is definately different. Can feel the gears more now locking in and out of gears

[dyslexik]

today was the day to change my clutch and flywheel...

took a few photos...

Pressure plate (back and front)

For those who don't see the part number well...

on pressure plate = CTY22104HD

on box = DTY2221204 (C/P Toyo 215x21x24mm)

on the xtreme website the clutch dimensions are 215x21x23.8mm

i'm going to call them later to find out whats going on with the box part numbers????

Clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing

Flywheel

so i left my car there and went home to find that they gave me the following clutch and flywheel off an AE92 corolla

so i rang xtreme up and got the part numbers off them.

heavy duty clutch = KTY22004HD

chromoly flywheel = FTY014C @ 5.6kg

Now while i'm waiting for the correct flywheel to come i was contemplating about the weight of it. I didn't want the aluminium one as i cannot machine it everytime my clutch goes to the dump. so i chose the chromoly one.

chromoly = 5.3kg, lightened chromoly = 4.6kg, stock toyota flywheel = 6.06kg (one of members post)

While the lightened one is around 1.4 kgs lighter, the one i'm going to get sent to my mechanic will be only 700g lighter. is it worth the money to get the chromoly flywheel? i guess it all depends on how bad the stock flywheel is but this is the first time i'm changing the clutch so it should be really worn out/warped etc.

just the hassle of waiting again...

edit: sorry the flywheel part number is KTY013C not KTY014C

Duy,

Did you ask Moh if Xtreme had the following combination kits below:

Xtreme clutch kit with 4.5kg flywheel: $770

Xtreme clutch kit with 3.9kg flywheel: $820

I can't remember if the flywheel was aluminium or chromoly.

Moh told me, the kits are built with the best materials the industry has to offer and are available to Xtreme. ARP bolts are used. Well Moh should have mentioned what Xtreme do in any case. And it's also stated on xtreme website "Xtreme range has been developed by globally sourcing the best products for each unique application".

Was the reason why you opted for the 5.4kg as opposed to the 3.9kg, due to being able to still land in lift for consecutive gear upshifts?

If so, Moh would have recommended for you to get a medium weighted flywheel - is that the 5.6kg one? The lighter the flywheel, the more difficult it is to land in lift, unless your able to adapt to the newly installed goodies.

If you had the lightest flywheel, you would stall the car countless times, just to get use to it. The reason why some people go the lightest available, is for the dramatic increase in throttle response. You will notice the rev pin go up and drop down a lot quicker than it would compared to stock or medium weighted flywheels.

Btw, listen to Trung's advice on taking it easy on the clutch. Just like an engine or an entire gearbox, it's best to run it between 400kms - 1,000 kms prior to any spirited driving. Remember, you invested that much money into your car, now you just gotta maintain the value of that investment.

Btw, you forgot to show me the fading in your green rims yesterday. Well done in getting it done. Have you let Moh drive you car so that he can try to isolate the old and existing issues you have with: 2) axle tramp while landing in 2nd gear.

With 1) limiter still at 7.8k, try doing an oil change and use the engine oil i'm using.

Edited January 23, 2011 by dyslexik

[Kenshin X]

yeah for 500 to 600 kms i was doing ALOT of in and out action with the clutch, make sure that all the oil residue was burnt off and that the clutch and flywheel are properly beded in. even when i was travelling at cruising speeds i use the clutch and change gears often, using gears for engine braking etc.

axle tramping issues can be of two things

1) movement of engine. i found that the engine mount inserts solved this issue straight away. all power was directed on to the ground as well with the traction. but the harshness of the mount inserts just detered me from continuing to use them. whats more is my front motor mount is slightly cracked causing more movement of the engine. (yes need to address this problem quickly). pedders when they inspected it said its not too bad yet but keep it under inspection every 6 months. i'm due for it soon...

2) my tyre pressures 40psi (cold) is probably abit much, i'll decrease it to 38psi cold and see how i go.

xtreme accidently gave him the FTY007C which is not even the 2zzge one. correct part no. was FTY013"CL"

C = chromoly CL = lightened chromoly.

I made sure he got the correct one the second time. my flywheel is actually 4.6kg. 1.4kgs lighter than the stock. yes i am still stalling it at times because i'm not used to the lightened flywheel -_- now the ONLY reaso why i didn't get the aluminium (3.9kg) one is that i cannot machine the flywheel everytime when my clutch goes gagagoogoo... not to mention the drivablility as well (my mrs will drive the car in the future)

also when hitting lift and changing it into 2nd, its just a beautiful thing, just BANG! goes into gear without any crunching/dragging/clutch grabbing whatsoever. imo i really think its not harder to land in lift because when u changing the gears the cars inertia is still the same as when i got the stock flywheel. so while the revs drop quicker, the quicker shifting i can do now i am able to finish the shifting and engaging clutch above the 5.5k rev mark. cars rev depends on the speed of the car not the lightened flywheel if u know what i mean. one day we drive each others car. its better explained when ur inside the car with me lol

with the rims i took them to claude today and he said he will clean them and gave the rough parts a light hand sand and do another coat on the top of it. he did say that with one of them he wasn't happy with the finish so he did another coat JUST ON THAT RIM. so as i was inspecting all 4 i did notice one of them was better than the other 3 and that probably was the one that got coated twice. top bloke and obviously cares about his company's rep so thats why he is doing them again for me. he said even if i brought it back 6 months later he would do it again becuz he told me that the colour on this powdercoat will never fade. even under the UV sunlight after many years. so he is confident about the products he uses. obivously he wouldn't be doing things like letter boxes and fences if the colour fades over time.

now just getting the time to take the tyres off and put them on the stockies and bringing the green ones in for him to do again.

[dyslexik]

well that's good to hear your adapting your driving technique to the new gear installed. Some people have stuff installed and expect the gear to make miracles without any improvement in their driving.

So unless you replace your engine mounts with new ones or reinstall the ES mounts, that axle tramp will continue.

As for the lightened flywheel, I was referring to the inertia of the flywheel itself and not the car. When you have a heavier flywheel, the revs drop down more slowly as opposed to having a light flywheel. I don't think it's got anything to do with the speed of the car dude, because you can test it when the car is stationary in neutral and blipping the throttle to see how fast the needle drops down when the throttle is closed.

I would rather have a lightened flywheel over stock, because it will compliment my driving style and technique. For me, the stock flywheel is too slow and could do for some improvement in that department. But so far my clutch is still good, so until then Xtreme clutch kit will have to wait.

Was there a high inertia Billet Chromoly flywheel (Xtreme Drift/ Drag Flywheels) available for our car?

Also, you know how you mentioned that Moh suspected the gearbox oil was over filled, he may be correct. It all depends on how the oil drain was performed - optimum drainage temperature reached?. Toyota advised me that the gearbox oil needed to be at a certain temperature to properly drain, prior to pouring in new oil.

listening to Mark's mixes.... he's got mix tracks of Wonder Girls! woot woot! hehe

[Kenshin X]

yeah rolling its ok, but 1st gear u can't just get go of the clutch slowly while pressing the gas like with the old flywheel. u'll just stall... -_- was thinking of getting the friction point adjusted lower. but in doing this would the displacement of the clutch wouldn lessen? cuz if this is the case then i'm more prone to crunch gears and i dont want this. but then again the higher friction point is sometimes annoying with the new flywheel as i cannot start moving the car like before. its touch and go thing...

sometimes still getting trouble to put into first when stationary at the lights

not to sure about the billet flywheels dude... might have to ask mo about that.

[dyslexik]

If you wanna adjust the friction point of the clutch, i think you need to adjust the push rod. I've seen my dad do it to his work vans in the past as he liked to be able to have the clutch fully in by depressing the clutch pedal by only 3 inches. But thats the way he likes to drive.

Same goes for adjusting the brake pedal sensitivity. You can have your brakes so even lightly depressing (1cm), the brakes will initiate 50% braking power.... a mate's older brother had done this to his Honda Accord back then. Again, it's the way he drives, and driving his car from Sydney, it was ridiculous to drive because it was super sensitive. But when he drove it, his braking was so smooth that you wouldn't think he had a sensitive brake pedal.

The best thing you can do, is to get use to it and if you still find the friction point to high, then just adjust it or have it adjusted accordingly. Remember, the car will not adjust to your driving, you have to adjust to it.

[dyslexik]

Next time we meet, I'll have a play with the friction point while the car is stationary.

[Kenshin X]

i found with the hp-x pads i got in at the front now compared to my trds, they require less effort to brake. i had hit abs when braking heavily which was strange as my trds with the supposedly softer compound had to given abit more for the same braking power. never ending adjusting to my style of driving lol.............. -_-

good thing is my front rims dont require much cleaning, which is stupid becuz the fronts are braking 65% compared to the back. yet the back gets more brake dust on them lol <_<

[dyslexik]

Are the HPX pads u had installed heavy duty? If it is, it means there is a higher metallic content over carbon to make it last longer and eb more durable. My EBC greens are carbon compound with kevlar reinenforcement. Won't last as long as other heavy duty pads, but they perform better. Really depends how hard a driver brakes and how often i guess. But yeh, its no biggie, as long your pads ain't screeching or eating your rotors, it's all good.

Now you've fully opened your eyes to the fact that it's a never ending cycle of adjusting your driving style in any scenario you may find yourself in. Thinking on your feet+instincts will allow you to progress onto a different level of driving to those who solely rely on performance mods for results.

Keep at it Duy, driving isn't just dumping the pedal, it's having an understanding of how you car behaves and if it behaves differently for some reason, try and understand what made that change, even if it was a a pebble on the road, etc.

All I can say is that I can feel the ride quality difference in my car when i increase the PSI from 38.5 to 40. Bit harsher and thats when my dampers are set on comfy daily ride settings.