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Brakes management

boxerboy

By boxerboy
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club

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e240 Mentor

e240

Posted
Posted

You may be right, and I did qualify by saying that this was on my bike.

It's also commonly reported by other users, usual pads that are involved are ebc brand, so I'm not the only one. I guess they all might be wrong? Usual fix is to do figure of 8's on sand paper, then reinstall. It does work, for a while.

But remember, this is a bike, not the car.

Bike/car - same principle - but if you had to use a sand paper - then likely to be glazing, but you certainly don't remove it by braking harder.

Its counter intuitive because Glazing reduces braking force, but if its already glazed, the harder you brake, the worse it gets....

I think the problem is that you might not be getting enough heat into the pads initially to burn off the resin...

I am soooo guilty of ruining my brake pads all the time with insufficient bedding in....But to be fair I didn't have time to run the pads in as they were all done on competitive events. In one instance, the pads ran out in less than 15 laps and damaged my rotors... :-p
SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

Posted
Posted

Bike/car - same principle - but if you had to use a sand paper - then likely to be glazing, but you certainly don't remove it by braking harder.

Its counter intuitive because Glazing reduces braking force, but if its already glazed, the harder you brake, the worse it gets....

The glazing wears off anyway. The by product of brakes is heat and wear. the heat causes the glazing (we all know that), the friction wears away the glazing.

I wouldn't even bother sand papering the rotors/pads as it'll be gone after an easy drive anyway. If the pads don't recover from the glazing then think about changing brands.

e240 Mentor

e240

Posted
Posted

The glazing wears off anyway. The by product of brakes is heat and wear. the heat causes the glazing (we all know that), the friction wears away the glazing.

Yes and no - When the resin crystalises and are on the pad and rotor, there's no way it will wear off simply by braking...because there's not going to be any friction between the 2 surfaces. You can brake as hard as you want but it just doesn't bite.


  • 5 months later...
Foss Grand Master

Foss

Posted
Posted

if a dealer has an on car machiner (lathe) it should be cheap. $40 - 60 a pair. if they have to remove the rotors and sublet them then it becomes dearer.

Which dealer is this?! For the price my dealer quoted me, I could post my rotors away to have them done for $60 and still have change!

The going rate for a pair on car down here is $120+, even at non-dealer workshops!

Adamsy Grand Master

Adamsy

Posted
Posted

if a dealer has an on car machiner (lathe) it should be cheap. $40 - 60 a pair. if they have to remove the rotors and sublet them then it becomes dearer.

Which dealer is this?! For the price my dealer quoted me, I could post my rotors away to have them done for $60 and still have change!

The going rate for a pair on car down here is $120+, even at non-dealer workshops!

Oh stop sooking you big girls Blouse lol, just get new ones hahah

Foss Grand Master

Foss

Posted
Posted

just get new ones hahah

OK then. If you go out tomorrow morning to find your car on blocks and your brakes missing...... it wasn't me... ;)

Adamsy Grand Master

Adamsy

Posted
Posted

just get new ones hahah

OK then. If you go out tomorrow morning to find your car on blocks and your brakes missing...... it wasn't me... ;)

haha where do you want me to leave the alloywheel lock nut tool? tied up somewhere just out of your reach?

Foss Grand Master

Foss

Posted
Posted

just get new ones hahah

OK then. If you go out tomorrow morning to find your car on blocks and your brakes missing...... it wasn't me... ;)

haha where do you want me to leave the alloywheel lock nut tool? tied up somewhere just out of your reach?

Impossible....

...you can't reach that high! :P

Adamsy Grand Master

Adamsy

Posted
Posted

just get new ones hahah

OK then. If you go out tomorrow morning to find your car on blocks and your brakes missing...... it wasn't me... ;)

haha where do you want me to leave the alloywheel lock nut tool? tied up somewhere just out of your reach?

Impossible....

...you can't reach that high! :P

YA MUM IS!

  • 7 months later...
u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am currently @ 123 000kms (I've only replaced the pads once). The brakes are now giving off a pulsating feeling. Should I

a) Get the rotors machined (the rotors have never been machined before)

Approx Cost?

OR

b ) Get New Rotors

Cost?

in either case I will need new pads.

OR

c) StopTech (yeah right!)

Thanks.

Edited by u54mot
u54mot Grand Master

u54mot

Posted
Posted

Might as well get new pads. How much money do you want to spend?

Do you mean new rotors?

I will have to get new pads in any case.

Price is not of a concern, but if new rotors is not much more than machining the discs, then new rotors it is.

DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

Posted
Posted

I'd get a new set of rotors. Pick up a set of RDA rotors since they are quite good value, and if you feel the need to spend more, get some DBA. I personally don't think machining rotors is that cost efficient since you are just making them wear out faster and making it more prone to develop the shuddering again.

trentmeyer23 Grand Master

trentmeyer23

Posted
Posted (edited)

Expect around the $50 mark for brake rotor machining, per rotor.

Edited by trentmeyer23

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